daeron

then ditch the 15 and get a pair of mild 10s. too much sub-bass sucks. you spent the cash for the kappas, (right? i hope you got the 3-ways with the EMITweeter, they ROCK) so why drown them with a Kicker????? bass is great, but you dont need a backrub. you want music, not magic fingers

I read a science fiction novel once where there was a race of beings who solved their "work" probelsm biologically, through genetic engineering, where we attack things technologically, through machines.. they has different "breeds" of their own species (literally, shop midgets!) for tasks such as this. off topic? yes, but it was also pointless

dont know about the soob, havent had a problem there yet, but im like 99% positive that ANY power brake booster has a check valve in the vacuum supply line, and what you are talking about sounds like a textbook case of a bad check valve. It is there to keep vacuum (negative pressure, suction inside the booster) from escaping when you push the gas and the manifold pressure rises towards atmospheric. in other words, if you remove the vacuum supply line from the brake booster and from the manifold, you should be able to put the booster side of the line in your mouth and suck, and NOT pull any air in. I am hypothesizing that you are pulling air in. or, to put it another way, your brake booster is sucking every once in a while! (just a little bit!)

Congratulations on your adventure, and kudos on coming out OK! A slide like that can make Panic easy, and Panic is bad!! Cougar, good point on Being Aware Of How Much Of A Potential Road Hazard You Are Yourself

well I won't forget that point next time. they look nice, either way.

email is uploading as I type. I hope its helpful, I have a SPFI NA, so i havent looked thru it for what you need at all... but i KNOW there was SOME MPFI stuff in there.. GD said there was some of it missing though. it should be of help, open part 2 first, that has what you need.

you might want to try spraying some evaporating cleaner or solution in there, BEFORE the lithium grease... its always fun working inside a door. Whatever you can accomplish, can only help. have fun!

GeneralDisorder!! BOOM!!! textbook case of ECU going into "limp mode!" not a problem to worry about, GoldDiggerRoo, by any means, I say that to GD just to point it out the next time he is arguing in favor of fixing "stupid" CELs rather than ignoring them. When enough errors are encountered, the ECU goes into a limp mode to ensure proper operation despite component "failure..." and this is a good reason to FIX egr solenoid problems rather than ignore them, among other things.... so yah, sorry for the threadjack. Im reading this thread eagerly, because I broke the EXACT same vacuum fitting a looong time ago and have it epoxied back together, and now I will replace.

so those headlights dont effect the function of the radiator, do they? thats alot of watts to stick right in front like that... I have never owned a brat or any EA81 (well I worked on one, once, eight years ago, but i was an ignorant child then) so I may be wasting breath... but it was a thought. it looks nice, to be sure.

no timing belt covers here. destroyed the bolts the first time i took them off, and hacked them back into place anyhow... then had to do the water pump. theyre somewhere around here, in a box.... dont want to bother with all that again. GD == right. here, at least

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAA okay guys, now, for the record.. the haynes book for our cars is umbrella'd over EA-71, -81, and -82.. right? 80-89, 1600 and 1800, OHV/OHC ALL right? MOST Hayne's manuals are ALOT better than the one for this car!! Its best to get a recent model vehicle, if its japanese.. because the older japanese car Hayns's books use a British English thats a bit foreign to ours.... so much so that they include the English to American Glossary :grin: BUT for the most part, Hayne's books are superb for the do-it-yourselfer, and reliable enough for torque specs etc for american cars for the more advanced mecahnic who may not need a book to tell him how to bleed his brakes... A Dam' site better than chilton's books by all means, anyhow!!!!!!! The Hayne's for the soob is teh suxx0r, yes.. but haynes isnt a bad word... "Chiltons" isnt something I want to let myself say around my little nephew....

see, i understand the concepts but know nothing of the turbines of which they speak just a disclaimer

The carb cleaner gets sucked up into the leak instead of air.. this air then goes into the engine and since its carb cleaner and not air, the engine revs up a little bit. Thats how this trick works. Another way to try and trace down a leak would be to get a stethoscope (yah, thats easy) or use a piece of rubber hose in one hear, plug the other ear off, and fish the hose around in the engine bay. put the end up near everything. You might hear it. this is NOT bulletproof with a hose, its much easier with a mecahnic's stethoscope which is designed for this.. but they ARE a handy tool, and some parts stores have chinamart ones for like, 10-15 bucks.

PM me with your email address and I will email you the two .pdf files that contain at least SOME wiring diagrams.. its only part of the FSM for an 89, but it covers SPFI and MPFI engines at least.. about ten megs, so let me know if that is too large for one attachment to your email account.

I would guess that would indicate that the power door locks are activated by one of two switches, one in the inside lock-switch mechanism, and one on the outside, keylock mechanism.. and that the "switch" for the power locks in your interior "lock" is somehow failed. This is all supposition, but it may be worth pulling off your door panel to see if there are any wires going to the doorlatch area.. if so, you may need to replace that little part from the junkyard. As I said, thats all nothing more than some fancy guessin'.... anyone else know a little more about this sytem who wants to chime in? I just own one, mine works fine. Haven't had to investigate, yet....

I am with durania/OldSkool camp on this one. I had one one time that took me all year to figure out.. picture a mirror, reflecting the image of the statue of liberty, thrown on the ground and then melted... all while still reflecting (some of) the image of the statue of liberty... and that was just the focal point around which the polygons and polyhedrons were orbiting... People don't believe me about that thing!! sorry for the off-topic, but i had to sound off on that

colorful!

Excellent advice, the next step that needed to be spoken of. these are all things that "should" get replaced together on ANY engine, as a regular maintenance thing. (~60K miles or so, give or take) It sounds like you've got the right attitude about things, though.. chances seem pretty good that the rest of your engine will be OK, but we aren't shamans or witch-doctors here.. we can't know that for sure. However, typically when an engine snaps a timing belt while running, the primary fear is bent valves.. and with the subaru EA82, you do not have that worry, as the pistons will in no case ever touch the valves (unless there is something FAR worse gone HORRIBLY WRONG already ) This is what is meant by saying it is a non-interference engine. Knock on wood! Anyhow, good luck on the T-belt repair, the info has been posted to the USRM (Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual, top right corner of the screen.) The procedure has given many of us a 20 minute headache the first time, but if you read Miles Fox's procedure carefully, you should be golden.

nkx: you ever work with air tools? ever work with BIG air tools? you need BIG lines for BIG torque.. pressure != flow!!! thats what the various CFM of each turbo is.. the pressure is simply that, pressure.

Excellent. The striker plate was where I was going to start, but then I realized that my window isnt as tight in its rails as it could be.. so I began to think it might be that causing it, as well. Sometimes a slam gets it shut, sometimes not all the way. SOO the plan is to yank the doorpanel, and tighten up the nuts etc on all the window rails/hardware, then see what it works like.. then check the striker plate adjustment. This car is straight as an arrow, all original body panels (judging from the paint job, it all has the same universal *TINY*BIT* of surface oxidation except the trunklid I replaced, which is shiny ) so I doubt its been impacted in any way.. BUT its a rusty chassis, so there IS a nonzero chance of frame "settling..." None of the other doors have a problem, though. Thanks for the comments, I will dig this thread up when I get around to investivgating the problem more. I posted because I realized it might not be door adjustment, after all.. and I figured I would see if anyone else had ever had WINDOWS cause a problem like this.

i KNEW i had read that elsewhere!!!!! i avoided replying to your earlier remark (i think it was this thread) about my failing to hear it.... because i never tried harder to hear it but I thought I remembered coming to that conclusion, for sure, in the past at some point. and also, I thought I had read someone else saying so on here at LEAST twice.. anyhow, glad to know I am not TOO crazy.

stupid reminder here, but dont forget to factor in the heli-coils when deciding whether you want to replace them or re use them

GD: late 80's BMW 3-series, driver side front shock tower. Black box, with cover, contains up to five scaleable relay brackets. Wires of assorted gage and coloring to pick and choose from, relay configuration changeable, golden golden golden!!!! you can also fit it with just 3 or maybe 4 relay brackets, and cram a small fuseblock under there.. pep boys and local auto parts stores all sell a similar product, cant recall any branding, but its a small 5 ATO fuze block with a black plastic housing and clear pastic cover.. I fit 3 relays +that block under there with room to spare. that gives me two additional under-hood fuses, beyond the relayed circuits, should I want them. i REALLY need to get a digital camera!! I think I am gonna try to con my way into getting one for Christmas/my Bday (12/13.) If you can find one of these to look at, and see if you like, i can source all you need. BMWs like that are ten a penny in the JY down here.. only like 2-5K to buy one at this point (vs the 1k-free soob of similar vintage) Another thing.. I keep reviewing this write-up, and wondering how difficult it might be to install this FI system on almost ANY engine, providing you can bolt up the TB to a manifold.. I mean, it is simple enough, and you can fool the various sensors as needed well enough... I have crazy pipe dreams about picking up a 20KW st-generator head and building a small, ultra efficient datsun OHV motor to power it for possible hurricane usage FI might be nicer than a carb. :cool:

Good Luck!

listen, bgd, first off: not everyone you meet on the internet will be a nice guy. Second off, I really like you, and enjoy your contributions to the forum.. You make excellent observation, but there are times when you do not follow ideal logical paths, and draw faulty conclusions based on that. It happens, judging from your statements of cause, event, analysis, and remedy. After a certain amount of time reading posts that are at times not the clearest, and at times following murky logical paths, eventually certain people and liable to snicker... at first, likely, in the privacy of their own homes.. but eventually, those people will start correcting you. Some of them are going to be @ssholes about it. One or two of those (if you're lucky) are nice enough to WARN you that they are @ssholes. Take it with the @sshole grain of salt, and re analyze your situation and solution, instead of taking offense. Lots of people have turned wrneches on dozens of these engines and vehicles... DOZENS!!!! millions and millions of miles logged by some folks here, countless problems encountered many times by a single individual.. thats not a knowledge base to get stubborn against with your own opinion. "Prejudice" doesn't mean its wrong. I am fairly prejudiced in the belief that when I drop a wrench towards my foot, its eventually going to hit my foot pretty hard if i dont move. I am prejudiced in favor of breathing, call me crazy. And "anecdotal" is far from insulting.. especially when offered with a direct link to demonstrate that many others have had your tale thus far as chapters 1-3 of a 9 chapter story, the end of which was.. replacement of lifters and reseal of oil pump. It is alot easier to cry "search" than it is to sit and patiently explain to someone the exact nature of their problem.. especially when the individual having the problem has been reading threads about this problem daily (we all do, right? ) for eight or nine months! My point is, beyond a quick jab from GD (insulting maybe, but maybe a drop of truth to it as well?) most of this thread has been fairly level.. when you are dealing with people on the internet here, you gotta give their way as much as they give yours.. you are asking for information, and instead of receiving posts that say "yah?? good job, I'll remember that.." or "yah thats what I did, worked fine, 100K later.." you get posts that say "youre wrong, try searching, or opening your eyes." Blunt? yah. true? probably. possibly, to say the least. *steps off soapbox* sorry, but _I_ was utterly unaware of the "similar threads" feature... must bear in mind for future reference. thanks