daeron

just as a thought, adding an oil cooler and/or transmission line cooler might help in keeping temps down, if you run into problems.. these motors do not react well to overheating once or twice, if they have miles on them. adequate cooling is a must.

Uhm, yah guys.. but.. He thinks he does NOT have a feedback carb. so the conclusion would be, no o2 sensor needed.. If you are having difficulty passing emissions, you may be having carb issues of many sorts, of which I am largely ignorant. A simple rebuilt stock hitachi carburetor would possibly fix these problems... but there are lots of reasons to fail emissions. One trick my dad used alot when we still had emissions testing down here was to run one tank dry (the dual tank conversion van was our problem vehicle) and put a gallon of denatured alcohol in it, switch over to the alcohol and give her a good hot burn out along a highway near the station, and come in for the test.. We ultimately had to replace the carb to get it to pass finally.. BUT in the end we ALSO determined that the people who had rebuilt/installed the longblock in rural NC had put the headgaskets on upside-down, or rotated 180*, or something along those lines.. (I only heard that part, I didn't see it for myself. My dad and brothers were doing the work.) Fuel additives to clean valve deposits can help as well. I'm sure others can tell you much more and in accurate detail than I. Just wanted to redirect the discussion

Dang, GD beat me to the punch with the Maxima Alternator. Late 80's model; there seems to be some disagreement between references on exactly which years. The pulley will have to be replaced, and the plug is slightly different, BUT its still a two wire plug, and one wire is MUCH thicker than the other for both alternators.. so its kind of easy to figure out which one goes where

The point made loud and clear is that the turbo is less reliable, and that anyone who needs that spelled out for them should be riding the short bus. thats a given with any turbo model. however, its nice to have it so well illustrated (as has been the case in this forum) that there are critical maintenance items, which need to be maintained according to a "mantra" common to many on this forum, to keep the vehicle running and running well. I spoke in the past about trying to get a comprehensive list of tips, write-ups, and how-tos on these cars.. since there is so much content that just bubbles through these threads that would simply need to be collected. The USMB is a great thing, but it needs a Coach or an Editor to line up the comprehensive side, and make it all-inclusive. A poor man's substitute for a FSM. Unfortunately, I haven't made the time to collect anything like that myself. Maybe some of us should start bookmarking some of these threads

awesome! nice job, man. Now just fix that driver's side corner marker, and you're kosher. :-p

It seems to me that most major Japanese manufacturing firms are pretty reliable in general. All have products that aren't their best, and all have bulletproof products. Alot of them have changed over the years, too. Hitachi makes fantastic alternators, starters, and electrical equipment. With carburetors, you have to consider that ALOT of Japanese carbs were just ripoffs of European models anyhow... knockoffs. What do you expect? The FI system in general is liable to be a grey area. My point is, I try not to make any rule about a japanese company. They change too much, and in the long run their ideas and philsophies seem to work well for me to ever pass judgement on them. Except for honda. F*** honda.

these GL-10 seats are spiffy, aren't they? When my dad got his 89 xt6 new, I thought the adjustable height was the bee's knees... I didn't believe my brother's POS subaru had that when I got it from him. oh, how our opinion can change, in time.

okay, GD needs to see this thread.. I have never seen the feedback carb (honestly, rarelly seen the stock hitachi) but my understanding is the feedback carb has a mess of wires and sensors, whereas the non-feedback carb is a carb. it has vacuum hoses, and a couple of fuel lines. the feedback carb was NOT very typical. However, it did use an o2 sensor as part of its equipment. Take a good look at your carb and make an educated guess.. or search "feedback carb" and the name GeneralDisorder, in the Older Generation forum. I know he has posted alot of info about it, because he is a pretty knowledgable guy and has had a run-in with one. I'll let you know right now he didn't care for it, but he has made posts describing the difference between the two before, and maybe even with pictures. Also, watch the similar threads feature at the bottom of the page, this crapuretor comes up alot :-p Try editing your original post to include "feedback carb" in the subject line. The good news is, if you DONT have a feedback carb, you dont need an o2 sensor. the long term advice is going to be scrap it and install a weber. that seems to be consensus, for the most part.

Wow, I havent visited the site in over a week and I come back and this thread is STILL on the top page.. Yah, down here in FL we don't have any annual inspections whatsoever.. no state income tax, either, which I understand is a more or less universal headache elsewhere in the country.. In Palm Beach, Broward, and Dade counties (that would be W. Palm, Boca, Ft Lauderdale, & Miami.. the long, skinny megalopolis thats built up down here on the southeast corner for about 80 miles) we had emissions inspection until Jeb Bush abolished that as his second act in office as governor. I wasn't exactly thanking my lucky stars, though. His first act was to rob our Water Management District of all scientists on its board of directors, and replace them with lobbyists and bureaucrats.. Plus I had just bought a 25 year old vehicle anyhow, so I was exempting myself. I wish we DID have safety inspections down here.. it might shape up some of the driving a tad.. BUT I suppose that my vehicle would stand a good chance of not passing them. However, as I said there is no major frame rot or danger points. Just, poor aerodynamics, and the tetanus factor :-p and I think any man gives much much credit to any woman who takes the initiative to pick up a wrench. It shows a rational mode of thought that appeals to men, and is (regrettably) deficient in many women. Plus, self reliance is attractive to anyone. :clap:

wow. I feel for that one. and he made you bleed, to boot?! well, what do you expect from a teenager, huh? sheesh. 8a is good thinking, because it allows you to avoid using a welder and simply rivet your metal in. 8b is plainly and simply, the only way (IMHO) to make a safe seatbelt mounting point in a vehicle. If you are an auto manufacturer, you have engineers and labs to test and analyze and design your seatblet mounting points to your desired specifications.. if you are a shadetree mechanic, you have gut instinct.. and my gut instinct likes to go overkill on things like that You can always rivet it in first and see how things work. Fiberglass is an ideal way to create a complete seal, either way you do the job. I have seen people replace floorboards with fiberglass, and replace the frame rail underneath that floorboard with a large piece of channel.. It is all a matter of making sure you build the living $#!+ out of it, to be on the safe side. possibly a repair for under 200-250, too, if you avoid high welding costs.

do you have links to larger images of those pictures? thats comedy right there.

WOW, that things really coming along!!! i hate to threadjack, but could you maybe post a quick link to a progress indication or update of some sort? nothing like a beautiful, homebrew Frankensteining of a vehicle to get the blood pounding...

i really haven't looked at the steering on my car at all, beyond the outer tie rod ends.. do we have one of those steering rack couplers? I know my Zcar steering wheel is connected to the box with a small plastic coupler the steering column, and that coupler can wear out, causing play between the steering wheel and the input shaft of the steering rack.. this often translates to a wheel shimmy at a certain range. Also, the how to keep your subaru alive book (HTKYSA) has a good section on isolating steering/suspension issues like wheel shimmies.. it may help to read it, but you may already know all it hass to teach. just a thought.

from what i have heard they are not very reliable at all. quidam, do you own a justy with a CVT? cricket, as this thread gets longer watch the bottom of the page.. down there is a part that says Similar Threads, and some older discussions should come up about it. I didnt check what was there before i went to type my post, but if theres nothing of interest now, wait. it changes. Justy Continuously Variable Transmission. just to make it plain to the programs that cross-index these things for us. they dont like three letter acronyms like CVT, or ECU, or ABS, etc.

okay now, air pockets in the radiator on the scale you are talking are simply an implausible explanation for your problem.. I would investigate using a higher temp thermostat, has anyone at colder climates looked into that at all? The heater core side of the equation is, your heater core might not efficiently be surrendering the heat from the coolant within, to the air being forced over it by the cabin/defroster fan. You should also look into opening up the air handler box, underneath the glovebox and see if it might be partially clogged.. I live in south florida, i live in a house with window unit ACs only. the ACs are on 24/7 for at least nine months a year. Its on right now. I also smoke indoors.. and I know those coils get clogged up with all sorts of hair, dust, debris, tar and soot in about six months. Chances are some degreaser on that coil would clean up some of the 20 years accumulated nastiness. It should certainly cause a marked improvement in your heat/defogger temperatures. If you drive at zero fahrenheit, then maybe obstructing your radiator is the best thing to do. Just do something temporary-like, that is easily undone. If your radiator were worn out at all, it would not OVERcool. i would imagine that if you had air bubbles in there, you would be able to eliminate them by now. Try to run it without the thermostat, and see what happens. I am certainly not suggesting this as a FIX, more of a test to obtain more information. You never know what will happen with YOUR car until you try it, and it might not be what you would expect. thats a bit of a long post to call my "two cents.." more like a dime or so, but thats my thoughts.

you can go to tirerack.com and shop tires by size, click on a tire in any given size and click to see that tire in all sizes.. or all tires in a given size, either way they also list along with other specs of the tires compared the outside diameter. You may be able to find some tires a hair smaller than your 205s, or who knows.. but thats a valuable reference to have in mind when thinking about relative outside tire dimensions.

GD knows his stuff, and has done his best to put the information you likely need to rpair your carb in the briefest terms possible.. just basically set your carb up the way he says, and you should be running great. Not trying to kibbitz, just adding support for his advice.

the two ea82 files are the two "chunks of the FSM that float around." I need to bookmark this, because i freely offer to email it to people in need.. if ive ever emailed you a partial FSM for an EA-82 car, this is it. I cant say anything for the other stuff on there, but thanks for posting it so i can finally bookmark it and just post a link myself rather than attach it to an email; that can be cumbersome.

wow, what have i done?!? On the topic of females who are self-reliant, much applause. I have a good friend who bought a volvo planning to have someone swap the front clip out and wind up with a car worth much more than she paid.. she actually started trying to repair similar rust damage to mine (although on nothing remotely like the same scale, think 0.1%) on her honda accord before deciding to go for the volvo.. she is having a professional body man do the work, but not many women (CERTAINLY not down here in south florida, its turning south california here) would have had the eye for something that was as easily repairable as the damage on this car. I also learned how to work on cars out of necessity.. My dad never felt like paying a mechanic to do things he could easily accomplish with the help of his sons.. (he had five of us, after all. we owed the poor bastard SOMEthing in return) we were his wrench-monkeys, and ultimately his tire and oil changers, belt installers, radiator swappers, etc... When i got my own car (a '92 geo storm that i put four timing belts on in one year, long story) you know I wasn;t paying anyone else to work on it. Insurance was too expensive for me to afford a mechanic, too. And as for the "rust" on the brown vehicle.. c'mon man, look at my car, then look at your picture... you cant call any of that "rust" in the face of what I've got :-p titanic!=delorean. funny, though

oh, we got plenty of those too. Lots of Pseudo-rednecks around, as well, with the "save a horse ride a cowboy" sticker on the back of their $45,000 banks/cummins turbocharged full ton three mile high pickup trucks with swampers on them so big they would float a soob.. they may even float these 3 tons prosthetic compensations... where do these people get their money from, is what i wanna know. Living a life on credit leads to economic meltdown, i thought we learned that in school when we went over the causes of the Great Depression.... sigh.

for delivering to those, "hard-to-reach" houses where the sleigh just can't go...

thank you, my thoughts exactly.

heartless: i already HAVE a "project car" that has languished through over two years of me paddling like crazy with my hands up ***************'s creek... and to do ANY work to this vehicle is sending good money and materials after bad. any time and money I invest in fiberglass work, is going to be invested on the Z-car. I am humble enough to drive my Hoopty around in the middle of BMW, M-b, and Porsche land down here in the commercialized hell that south florida has become. (spoken like a true native, :-p) and moosens, thats funny, because last night I clicked on the thread down at the bottom of this page, under similar threads, and already had found your car and a reference to the ziebarting. I certainly am not knocking Ziebart, since my undercarriage looks A-OK.... I just added that for perspective. Most of the soobs I see in the junkyard are in much better shape than mine, and ive NO idea where it was sold originally. Anyhow, must run.

the thing about it is, that none of it seems to effect chassis rigidity that much. one thing I have noticed though... i changed out my trunk lid for one off a newer car (and lost my luggage rack, but i still have it to re attach) In replacing it, the latch was out of adjustment, and once in a while it would pop open. Windows up, nighttime, at sixty MPH, i could NOT tell that the trunk was open simply by the air flowing thru the cabin.. that felt the same as it always does. in other words, the air flow thru the speaker holes and out the rust holes is roughly equivalent to having the trunk open... at least, with windows UP. windows DOWN i always felt a major difference.

I suppose I will go ahead and be a prick about it, and point out the green grass and green palm trees in the background juxtaposed against the date stamp of 12/18/06.. I feel bad for those of you that get this "winter" thing i keep hearing about. Also, I failed to get a photo of myself weaving my arm through the driver's side rust hole, into the trunk, and out the rear speaker hole and waving. This is because i had no photographer to expose my face to the USMB.