daeron

sounds as much like an intake gasket going bad and blowing water into the fuel/air mixture as a headgasket.. to me, anyhow. Drain your oil into an open pan like a cat pan, or something similar. Let it sit for a while, and look to see if there is any water in it.. pour it off slowly into another container, watching the strea. Do you run water in your radiator, or antifreeze? if you run antifreeze, (or a mix) then you should be able to see the antifreeze in the oil even easier than water. If there is no water in your oil, and your compression numbers are OK, and you are not hearing a bubbling from your radiator overflow, i dont think you have a headgasket problem. You might, headgaskets have blown before and exhibited none of these signs.. BUT eliminating ALL those symptoms reduces chances of HG and points towards intake manifold. The overflow bubbling would be caused by your blown HG allowing that cylinder to puch cylinder compression into the cooling system, overpressurizing it and forcing the cap open to allow coolant (or steam) to bubble into the overflow.

bgd has a good point, with the oil trapping junk.. oil holds no water, but it will hold plant matter.. and plant matter holds water. However, on a $200 car.. yah, sounds like a not-TOO-bad idea. interesting to hear good results from it.. anyone else try it?

actually, 84 hp, and like 104 ft-lbs of torque. get the soob. sell the other cars. these cars are made out of legos, easy to fix, easy to tear apart, easy to rebuild. minor differences between some mecahnical parts, but most parts are interchangeable as long as the headlights look the same as your car.. get it, get it, get it. You should be able to talk the guy down to something easy on the price, if it has been sitting there for a while. It isnt 4wd, which is what would make it REALLY desirable.. and on the up side, it isnt that difficult to MAKE it a four wheel drive, should you want it in the future. The 2wd 5 speed is really the ultimate in fuel economy though.. has less to spin around than any other model (Auto, and 4wd both have heavier drivelines.. the 4wd auto naturally spins the most weight around..) good luck, praise the lord and pass the plastic purchase power!

Hey, yah.. Any clue what you might ask to ship four or six of those to the US?? I HIGHLY doubt anyone would get in trouble for those.. It would be interesting to see a photograph showing the beam pattern of those 9104 bulbs in a standard loyale/ea82 headlight lens.. could you take a shot or two like the first ones in this thread and post them?

sounds like the intake gasket is a prime possibility.. there is a spot where the gasket can blow that leaks water into the intake, producing white smoke. Check your coolant levels, and add water ONLY when the engine is cold. Keep that sucker full, though.. as full as possible. change the gaskets immediately (if you determine that is the problem) Why did this happen after tires and suspension work?? no clue. I may be wrong. but if you are overheating now, after suddenly blowing white smoke out the exhaust, chances are pretty good I am right. even if theres only 50K on the engine, unless it was brand new (read: not rebuiltm, shiny shiny brand new) you do NOT want to severely overheat it. 50,000 on a rebuild is not any sort of magical shield against blowing your headgaskets. 50,000 from the factory you may have a bit of safety margin.. but even that I would doubt. Just be careful is all I am saying. And change your oil. It certainly cant hurt; and it will give you a good chance to let it settle out in like, a cat litter pan or something like that, so you can see if there is any water in it. The ATF has flushed through your engine anyhow, and should probably be replaced with good pure motor oil just to be cautious. I doubt thats the root of this problem, though.

if you love wires, wiring schematics, finding wiring schematics, and trial and error, it is TOTALLY possible. People have done it successfully. it is a major endeavour though, one only an intrepid man would undertake... I decided long ago it wasn't worth MY effort. however, adding an oil pressure gauge and a reliable water temp gauge are excellent ideas. If you feel like it, go for it. It might simplify your project to scrap the stock oil and temp gauges, and see if you could butcher some real ones into the cluster or something... Thats about the closest thing that I eve imagined happening in my case. With the rust on the vehicle though.. doubtful.

Yes, I have.. but I was planning on checking that as well. I had about the same thoughts. Slept late today, had no time before work to investigate anything in detail. A while back i ran D-check mode and got an O2 sensor or circuit code.. could an O2 sensor thats going bad (enough to trigger a d-check code but no CEL during driving) possibly cause this? i DID eyeball that pot today while she was running, in the daylight, and saw no leaks.. but then again, i didnt have the problem recur today while driving the 8 miles or so to work and back, either. Something tells me this running issue is gonna be a night time thing. Murphy's law and all that jazz. Also, since this problem is being intermittent, I am starting to lean away from my dying headgasket being the cause of my problems... BUT I haven't ruled it out yet. any thoughts on that? obviously a compression check would be in order.. but if its intermittent it may or may not show poor compression.. Also, i have not the gas to go to the shop where the tools are. I barely have enough (i think) to get to work and back until monday (payday) thanks for the input, all. EDIT Update early saturday morning: Drove over to a buddy's earlier, and on my way home my symptoms recurred... I fiddled with the gas pedal a bit, and judging from that I am guessing that the MAF is my most likely culprit.. because the problem went away at WOT and near to it, and also whenever i forced a much greater amount of air into the intake than it had been seeing a moment prior.. (ie, punched it when i was at low throttle.. but not necessarily all the way.) robm, thanks for reminding me that the ECU goes ignores the MAF at WOT, thats what made me start experimenting.. and sure enough, problem dissappeared every time i hit the pedal to the floor. Not closing the book on anything yet.. to many potential problem areas that HAVENT bitten me in the arse yet..and havent been fixed yet, either.

Looks like I may want to unbolt the fuel pump shelf and try to get a good view of the pump assembly with the engine running.. would this be inadvisable? I can't imagine it would hurt TOO badly... must search for this other thread, too...

as he said, with the rust on my car... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68905&highlight=rust I have read about the fuel pump issue you are talking about. I have to do a search here to find the relevant thread.. But thats one good place to eyeball in particular. I was planning on jacking her up tomorrow and taking a good hard look at the entire fuel pump shelf there.. I dont even have $$ for a junkyard unit but if somethings wrong with the pump, I can find something from somewhere to get it to work, for now.. I might have to call in tomorrow, though.. Oh well. If my car breaks down, it will be at least a day lost there. Hopefully they see it that way, too. Oh, and i forgot to mention.. I have also replaced the TPS with a JY unit recently.. so while its not impossible for that to be the culprit, it HAS been recently checked.

... I really don't know what to say to that...

Tonight my subaru started behaving strangely. (87 gl-10, N/A, SPFI) I haven't properly isolated the probelm, so I cannot say reliably when it happens.. but sometimes, while accelerating gently (almost only, hard pedal is mostly OK) it sputters really bad, like its running out of fuel or something. (I'll level with you: it sounds EXACTLY like i just came around a turn at about 40mph with nothing but fumes in the tank... running out of gas) I have also noticed a light gasoline smell coming and going, that has slowly grown more intense.. it is still not MAJOR, but it seems stronger and more prevalent than it did two weeks ago. I have recently cleaned and inspected my MAF, I am throwing no codes. Havent run D-check mode yet, thats tomorrow. Also will be cleaning and checking my CTS connector, and the MAF connector. I tired looking for fuel leaks all around, but couldnt see anything tonight with the spotlight. Fuel filter has been changed recently. Fuel pump is an obvious possibility, but under power it seems A-OK... I have yet to see it happen when I stomp on the gas hard enough to downshift the 3AT. I may be imagining things, but it seemed more common as the car was heating up.. but DEFINITELY not exclusive. It has occurred while at running temp. Just much more common on acceleration in traffic, than if I have an open road in front of me or if I am already rolling. I've had a bad headgasket bubbling compression into my cooling system for a while now. Is this possible evidence that that cylinder is losing compression relative to the others??? The reason it hasn't been fixed yet is simple.. I have been making about 220-240 a week for the last four months. Not enough to eat on, not enough to pay rent on... CERTAINLY not enough to be able to spend 100-200 bux on resealing the motor, JY heads, oil pump seals, etc etc... I'm flat broke, and have been so every day since August. I hate money. Anyhow, any thoughts or tips are appreciated.. I have good ideas where to be looking, just wondering if anyone has any good ideas I haven't thought of, or stories like this complete with the ending. "I did this and this and this, and then finally did this stupid thing and THAT fixed it..."

bugger me, so a soob LSD would do me no good unless it was for a bluebird or a 510. My Z is too heavy, and i want too much power, for a 160. I guess that means I'm still limited to my nissans for pickin' thru....

if you can find late 80s BMW 3 series in your local junkyard, go looking.. they have great little bosch relays in them, and removable plug/brackets.. ive got a box setup with a cover that can hold five relays, or there relays and a small fuse panel to power them all.... one of my proudest junkyard finds, yet..

i've been thinking about this... two ideas I have had about cleaning the female plugs on the harness.. The first is a simple dip with phosphoric or nitric acid. My landlord and I rebuilt our countertop stove about two years ago.. and we cleaned all the wires that went between the switches and elements with some nitric acid he had lying around.. takes copper from grease and rust stained, top bright pink.. kinda impractical, though.. the second idea I had was to find a piece of heavy gage wire used for wiring houses, and strip a small length.. peel back individual strands until you can JUST jam it into the plug, and then spin it, using the wire as a rasp or file of sorts to clean the inside of the female bullet connector.. since I think I may be having issues with mine, finally, i must try this, and report. any thoughts?

well then, I will shutthehellup already.

well, being a datsun guy, i know that when I peek under any nissans looking for an r200 LSD, (i look on all 280ZXs, 300ZXs, and pretty much anything RWD like older 200SXs, etc..) I am looking for a finned rear plate. If the rear plate doesn't have fins, ists not LSD.. at least, it wasnt BORN lsd.. No idea how accurate this info is to soob LSDs, but apparently they are about the same?? Are these rear diffs r200s? that seems a mite hefty for the rear axle of a 4 cylinder, 4wd... I don't know if the same finned rear plate would be found on r180 or r160 rear ends... and I have been meaning to ask that question for some time.

you can go up to the top right corner of the screen and click on the USRM. In the engine section, there is an article on replacing the timing belt by milesfox. Excellent article, read it through four or five times, then print it out and have it on hand. If you follow the directions it will be a piece of cake. There are the standard cam and crank oil seals, as well as o-rings on the cams, behind the sprockets that should be replaced, IIRC. The article is rather thorough. The process of lining up the camshafts and slipping the belts on at the same time causes people problems sometimes, but miles spelled it out very well. I would say jump on it, a simple reseal and waterpump should make you good.. headgaskets are about the only other common failure point on these cars, and thats usually due to overheating.. a turbo is naturally more sensitive to this issue than a non, but I only mention it because since you ought to replace the water pump as well, you might want to think about doing headgaskets and oilpump seals, too.. those are virtually all the minimal weak points of this car, and doing them all at once does, in the end, condense an extraordinary amount of work down to a single, 2 or 3 day project. the reliability factor is increased as well. Thats my subaru primer. The timing belts are easy, thats how i got mine for free (well that and the rust.. ) the rest is simple, and it all makes you wish you had done it all at once.

ye gods, sorry. double post. oops!

if you are having difficulty closing your door with the window shut, then in my mind the top of the window glass would already be tilting too far towards the car.. Also dont forget to think three dimensionally. this is NOT a flat pane of glass here.. as it goes up, the top of the glass slides in towards the center of the car due to its curvature. I do not THINK they made any adjustability in the direction you are talking about, but the only way to find out is to get up to your elbows in the door.... I spent about a day or two playing with things like that, and a haynes book, on my old Z-car, and in that day or two, became my family's official "window guy.." I have repaired windows on a miata, on old datsun roadsters, on a honda, lots of things. Just take your time and be patient.. (and this is coming from the king of rushing in and doing things without enough thought) and its not hard to learn.

well, it sounds like according to the manual, the 4.11 should be printed 4.100.... if you want to accurately represent the ratios on all three, then you oughta find the numbers of the teeth on the gears. the 9 is the same on all of them, right? (cant remember which word is which gear, ring/pinion) if the 4.11 is 37/9, then I am guessing that the 3.9 is 35/9 which is 3.888888... and the 3.7 could be either 33/9 which would be 3.666666 . or 34/9 which would be 3.777..... your choice, of course.

can you say.. microsoft? and Loyale 2.7: Constant veloocity joints/axles, its all the same.. Your command of english is actually astoundingly good, considering how abstract automotive terminology can get. The most common problem I ever see in your grasp of our language is misunderstanding small jokes and odd comments, like nipper's earlier about throwing gas on the fire. I know a little spanish, and mostly its the technical side that i DO understand.. but my vocabulary is lacking. Given that, plus the fact that I live in south Florida, I have gotten pretty good at noticing spanish-speakers' mistakes and why they make them.. your mistakes are rare, and very very small. English can be a tricky language, since the English went and conquered/stole half the world.. they were taking words and phrases from everyone the whole time, so there is no telling what one of us might say My advice for you on the language front: if you don't get a statement, feel free to ask for explanation, BUT it is probably a joke Most of what you tell us makes perfect sense. Using a forum like this is probably a FANTASTIC foreign language excercise.. because so many of us WILL make posts that are very informal, and in some sort of street lingo/language.. I use words like "aint" all the time. once again, applause to you, for speaking a language foreign to you, FAR better than most of us could do.

its a link of an old p51 mustang (WWII prop fighter plane) doing an ABSURDLY LOW flyby.. really cool, if you ask me. Clutch fans sound godawful, yah... Kinda like a prop plane on a low-level flyby..

what engine was in the camaro used??? im not much of a chevy guy, so my late model knowledge is virtually nil.. BUT something tells me it wasn't chevy's latest and greatest.. which means it was likely an apple not too far from the old pushrod tree that first popped up back in the fifties... whereas the ea81/2 block was a fairly drastic departure from subaru's previous blocks, was it not? if nnot, i am certain that one could trace the two motors' antecedents back and rapidly find a point where the subaru design is much much younger. the camaro made ten years prior (92) to the one in the testing GD posted has essentially a 40 year old block design... I am no engineer. I am shadetree, watching this oil debate with a grin of ignorance on my face. However, my thoughts as a man of science are that, these people probnably chose this camaro PRECISELY because the engine design was a marriage of ancientry, and corvette technology. An apple-orange-strawberry-kiwi-mango-melon fruit punch, if you will.

yah, these older soobies were made outta legos. adding the fuel injection (spfi, not the MPFI) from a later (ea82, 1.8L SOHC mid 80s to early 90s) car can be done relatively easily.. GD is sure to chime in shortly... You can also swap around the obscure wheel lug pattern to have more wheel and suspension options.. Alot of us simply default to Wagons, though. That way we can go ahead and just get the spfi ea82 in the first place, the mileage is in the 30 range (with 2wd at least) and the price drops a zero or so off. hard to turn down a 200 dollar car sometimes.... good luck, these older subes were pieces of cake to work on and own. quite possibly the most modern car i ever plan on driving, for myself.

Just avoid the Brown LSD. even if its cheap. bad things.