daeron

Click on the link in my last post, scroll down a little bit and find the word EA82.. download those two .pdf files. They are significant chunks of a Factory Service Manual that answers all of your questions.. I believe on the turbo, the throttle switch you are talking about IS in the TPS.. but I am unsure. I know theres a difference between my TPS and yours, and I *think* thats it. Also, you might get more responses from other people who know alot more than me, if you started your own thread. This one has been around for a while, and I am sure there are people who are no longer viewing it every time it comes to the top. I certainly don't MIND if you want to continue trying for help in this thread.. but I think you'd have more help if you start something new. Oh, and download and read the FSM section about doing the computer checks. even if you are on dialup, it is TOTALLY worth the time to get it. Anyhow, read up on your check procedure, and read the list of codes, and THEN look at what codes you have, maybe give the relevant section of the manual a read, and make a post. The more YOU know, the more you can tell us.. and the more information we get, the more hepful we can be.

Sounds like the answer to the original question is, No.

Funny, I saw this post and your name as the poster.. and I thought, "He should be able to figure that out, he is one of the guys usually dispensing advice not asking for it..." Obviously, I was right. Its interesting how running your thoughts through the communication or speech centers of your brains often shakes the answer you are searching for loose. "What was the name of that actress in Spaceballs again?? Oh yah, Daphne Zuniga.. I knew it was SOMEthing weird..." For some strange reason, though.. The idea of cutting off an old bellhousing to make a "jig" for the starter on an engine stand just appeals to me. My old man has a sawn-off driveshaft spline end for a datsun transmission, just to plug the nose up so a loose tranny keeps its oil where it belongs. No great intellectual feat, but a similar concept of hacking parts into tools...

some rotors have the retention screw, some do not. It is a common *DOH* failure point, yanno? Sorry If i was talking down at all, I was just trying to cover 12438487235 points as briefly as possible. I can go on some times, be long winded, wordy if you will... I write books instead of sentences, climb mountains instead of hills, keep struggling to find metaphors to make this statement drag out.... Anyhow, I hope I have given you some food for thought. Don't forget that to enter D-check mode and get a good read, you have to have the RPMs up over 2K for about 2 minutes.. with the connectors plugged in, etc. http://www.ch601.org/engines.htm That is a page that conatins a link to download two .pdf files that are a significant chunk of a FSM. VERY helpful, at times.. not as comprehensive on the turbo coverage, i understand.. but a resource nevertheless. Good luck.

Listen man, I REALLY don't want you to take this the wrong way... But that was frickin hysterical.... Thanks for the laugh, sorry to be a jack@ss about it. Come to think about it, go edit the subject line (please )to say coolant temp sensor rather than CTS.. the search function doesnt like three latter acronyms (go do a search on just cts and see how much you find. you think thats all we say about the CTS? or MAF, TPS, etc...) If someone else makes this mistake, it will help this thread show up in a search.

I don't know how likely it is our problems are related, as I have a non-turbo car.. BUT the thing you seemed to have a hard time identifying and knowing how to check.. is a little pot thingy like a fuel damper mounted on the fuel pump shelf. The fuel pump is located on a small shelf bolted to the undercarriage, just in front of the rear passenger wheel. Any other FI soob of the same model (GL/loyale, if the car looks the same, turbo or non, spfi or mpfi, they are the same pump, or interchangeable) The problem being referred to is a simple leak, so a visual inspection while the engine is running should tell you. If you are referring to the MAF, thats the mass air flow sensor.. its part of your air intake, located just after the filter box. O2 sensors are screwed into the exhaust pipe.. and the coolant temp sensor rarely (if ever?) fails, the connections to it are somewhat failure prone. When those connections get less than ideal, they add resistance to the sensor circuit.. and since the sensor is a thermistor, which is basically a variable resistor that changes value with temperature.. changing the resistance of that circuit changes what temp the ECU thinks the engine is running at, and it can change the fuel mixture accordingly. The fix for this problem is simply to cut out the plug, and solder the wires directly to the wires coming out of the sensor. I have read many people stating that through 5, 10, 15+ cars that they have fixed the sensor wires on, they have yet to encounter an actual dead sensor. Also, try going to the USRM (top right corner of page, click on "USRM") and look for the ECU code retrieval procedure, and run a d-check diagnostic.. this is an onboard diagnostic that CAN help pinpoint sensor issues within the FI componentry.. but it can also yield no codes when you most certainly do have a problem. Take your distributor cap off and make sure that if your rotor is supposed to have a screw holding it in place, that screw is there.. search the forum for mass airflow sensor cleaning.. there was a thread with the subject "MAF sensor cleaning.. who'da thunk?" try sensor +thunk in older gen subarus, that should give you the thread. Take that and try cleaning the MAF. BTW, if that thread hasn't been put into the USRM yet I motion it gets put there....

keep the cable... Those things don't last forever, from what I hear. Apparently there is an adjustment on it.. how close to maxed out is your adjustment? IIRC, they like to "stretch" over time and eventually you cant tighten it any further.. If you are closer to bottoming out your adjusment, it may be a good idea to go ahead and change it anyhow.

I hate to doom-and-gloom, and I am NOT the person whose words you want to live and die by... I just pointed a couple possibilities out. Try searching the forum, and looking at the bottom of this page under "Similar Threads." Any thread you click on while searching, also check the similar threads. You might find something helpful. I'm just trying to find a nice way of saying I was giving you a couple ideas more than a "diagnosis," we can't ALWAYS do that via the internet yet :- ) Information helps, so the more data you can gather on your problem the better.. but I've said all i can really say..

What is awesome to me is their applications for performance reasons.. The datsun crowd goes in for the side draft carbs for obvious reasons, so I am more familiar with those webers.. and good god, two 44mm sidedraft webers on a high comp 2 liter U20 motor.... the sound coming out of those things is incredible, and the polished race carbs on the race motor are truly a work of art.

Yessir, from what I understand it may be a matter of swapping flanges and you are good to go. *I* am disappointed because the r160, which is what the soob uses, is just a little weak for a hig-power application in my 280Z. It would work, but it is borderline, so it is undesirable. In '75 datsun stopped putting the 160 in and went to the heavier 200 diff... I could use a 160 and be okay, alot of people opt for the r160 LSD rather than a non-LSD 200.. but I was talking "ideal" applications. 200 on a soob would be total overkill since its only turning two of the four drive wheels, as opposed to my RWD, it turns two of the TWO drive wheels, yanno?

No, it *seems* neat... but some of us at least would prefer accurate instrumentation.. and I am not even talking about how well it DOES read out.. My fuel gauge may as well just be a numer from zero to ten, with a low fuel light that comes on at "1." Same with the temp gauge. My RPMs go up in increments of 125.. thats kinda lame, when you start thinking about it. (By the way, to Fuji with those people for dividing it into 8 instead of 10...) Plus, no oil pressure gauge, or voltmeter. The older (86 and before) GL/Loyale style cars had an amber digi dash, which had some cooler things going on, but it (apparently? hearsay) was much more difficult to see in sunlight sometimes, and i think was a tad more prone to failure. Not that its all that awful, I am just trying to explain to you the myriad reasons so many people have this idea after getting a car with the digi-dash.. besides, NO 20 year old digital panel in a car, thats been left outside for a significant portion if not all its life, is going to be in brand new condition.. It would be neat to see one brand new I guess, a much higher "cool factor" than it has at age 19.... but the age, the poorly broken down readout, and the fact that it removes two gauges from the cluster are the three primary motivators of this swap.. plus some of us prefer digital watches, some prefer analog.

Be they downdraft or sidedraft.. A Thing of Beauty is a Joy, Forever.

wrong forum??? I didn't read every word, but legacy != older generation of subarus.

your buddy has a welder, right? It will take some welding to repair, but shouldnt be majorly difficult for someone who owns his own welder.. (by ownership, I assume he knows how to use his machine, too...)

wow, i didnt notice that response until just now.. Well GEE, theres just OODLES of STI's in the boneyards down here!! (sarcasm) on a (totally not) serious note.. nobody bit on my joke about the brown LSD!! c'mon guys, that was at least as good as the Richard Dean Anderson joke in the subaru toolkit thread a few months back...

Make it, like he did

That was a cam change that was NOT concurrent with the SPFI, from what i understood... I may well be wrong, but I *was* virtually positive that I had discovered my car (87, NA, spfi) was only rated for 84 hp like the older ones.. and that the 90 only came up with a cam change (?) in about 89 (again, ?) Anyhow, i was gonna say 90 and 110, but i wasnt certain on the torque # and thought the 90 was wrong. So I said what I said to be on the conservative (and a little easier to believe) side. How sure are you that all SPFI were 90/110?

Yah.. No offense intended, BUT when you said the intake gaskets were brand new my thoughts were "Well, that just means that they haven't really proved themselves yet..." From what I hear this is a dealer only item?? unsure of that though. Check compression, even though good comp numbers do not rule out a HG.. as for losing coolant.. thermostat slowly seeping out coolant?? a PINT every 4-5 days???? do the math, that (probably) adds up right there.. a pint really isnt all that much, you know. Chances are you eliminate more than that every time you go to the bathroom.

All I can answer is how to tell when your car was manufactured. Look at the VIN plate in the doorjamb area. It should say there. Oh, and GD is prbably right.. Do these steering racks have bushings on the mounting points? because I have had steering rack bushings go bad before, and it exhibited the exact same symptoms.. If the inner tie rod end is also not the culprit, chances are thats where you need to look.. find the mounting points and watch them as you jiggle the wheel back and forth while parked.

you have GOT to be one of the coolest women on the planet.

it sounds like they are standard 9004 bulbs, in all but filament layout. Your 97 use the same bulbs as a Loyale/GL?

The lucas fuel cleaner IS really good stuff though. I used to use lucas oil stabilizer.. I got roped in by the little pastic gearbox they put in the parts stores when I was a teenager, and I will freely admit it. It helped stop some oil leaks on my Zcar, but then I heard about what it can do, and flushed that motor but-good... No bad news on her yet, but she hasn't been driven in two years either

water pump: not sure which is which, but the way to look at yours in your car, then walk into the store and look at theirs and say "i need this one, not that one" is to see how the fan and pulley attach to the nose of the pump. One pump uses bolts and nuts, so the pump nose has holes on it.. the other pump uses studs on the nose of the pump. I will say that this is "hearsay" and I haven't actually compared the two myself, but ive read it here many times. anyone who can confirm my statement with firsthand knowledge would be welcome...

try changing your subject line. we don't ALL read every post, just because it was posted. From what I've heard the brand new soob trannies are virtually the same as the EA series, internally.. but obviously the EA is not 6-speed. beyond that, I am clueless to help you.

I am actually thinking it may be a combination of minor problems with both the O2 and the MAF. I had a (marginally) bad TPS that I replaced a while back, and replacing it helped but not as much as I had hoped.. I theorized at the time that maybe a new O2 sensor would finish my fix. Also, it seems my mileage has gone thru the floor.. last night on my digi dash, the gas gauge went down to a single bar and the light came on... Usually at that point, I have about forty miles left before that last bar dissappears.. (and another ~40 after that before im dry) I reset the trip odo as SOON as it went down to one bar, and fourteen miles later, it was down to zero reading. I don't know if I have enough gas to make it to work an back tomorrow now!!