daeron

mcbrat: nice!!!!!

I think I may have heard of that... must cause cancer or kill tree-frogs or something..

not THAT much later, I just dont remember the quad headlight setup. let me dig a moment, will edit with a link hopefully soon.. bleah, my head was in a fog. same car, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enMDCVKVjUc I cant recall the name of the program I thought the clip had been excerpted from, but I criss-crossed a TV show name into that clip there, which wasn't actually there. Also, for some reason I came away thinking the car was blue.. *duh*

awesome, one of the like, three other floridians saw it, AND they knew a thing or two more than I was certain of!! A certain sibling of a parent might have been guilty of rifeting something once or twice so I am familiar with that routine, and I was aware we had no such thing as salvage titles.. I have investigated this as much as I've been able to, but my best resource has been my tow-truck driving neighbor, who is cuban and speaks English somewhat better than my Spanish.... but not THAT much. thanks again there, raven. And Joost, I suppose I left my Eastern friends out of the picture entirely.. I know there was a german with a turbo that had to do some trekking to get to a junkyard for an ECU a while back.. I just somehow picture land in europe as too expensive to run a junkyard on, I guess. thanks for the world-view!

well, you are obviously on the right track. you could even disconnect the lines back at the pump before blowing them out. Do you have the fragments of the FSM that float about in .pdf form? of not, clicky and find the ea-82 manual on that page. Read about how the system functions, and it can give you great insight and knowledge.. the TPS is a problem point that comes up slightly less often than MAF or CTS issues. It is even possible that there is some lockout sensor somewhere (ie transmission/clutch type? I am kinda wildly hypothesizing to be honest) that has gradually built up a critical resistance just in the bloody wires.. I call this "magic-wire syndrome" because its all a matter of finding the magic wire.. typically more of an intermittent thing, but theres more than one way for a magic wire to bite you in the arse... anyhow, if you haven't already, enjoy the read. GDs spfi conversion writeup gives a good non-fuji engineer's perspective breakdown of the system as well, but the bones of the situation is all in the FSM. Good toilet reading, too.

hrmm, there was another thread that came up and someone mentioned Wurth paints.. they make a number of excellent anti-rust products. clicky for a page that came up with a quick search for a lineup of some of their products. Fantastic stuff, my uncle uses it for rebuilding and repainting antique boat trailers. Yes. Antique trailers. with salt water use.

Oh gayness, I never clicked on your link. Yah, thats totally a different brat. this one was blue, and just barely had the turbo sticking through the hood... also a later generation, i think. I will go digging later for it, and post a link.

A real Idoit, he is? sorry, had to point it out. no harm intended

hey, can one of you guys putting the nissan calipers on show me a photo of the bracket to which these calipers attach? basically, all the way back to the hub is what I want to see. I want to do a rear disc brake conversion on my 280Z but my brother threw away the $10 steel brackets from the maxima produced for six months with the right bracket.. my proudest-ever junkyard find.. and now utterly obsolete. (also cost about $120 to purchase "aftermarket" brackets identical in shape) I am wondering what I may be able to use.. The brackets I speak of can be seen at the top center of the following photograph.. Just idly curious. Always on the lookout for a possible source of retrofit parts :- )

You may well be able to access the switch without pulling the entire dash. I know I removed one from a car in a boneyard not too long ago.. I have yet to install it into my car, however, so I can REALLY make any promises. It seemed like it shouldn't be impossible, though. The switch switches vacuum instead of electricity, and it is supplied by a line coming off the intake manifold, into a small white accumulator canister at the rear passenger's side of the engine bay.. from there, along the back of the engine bay and into the cabin, under the dash. Since you only have a problem on "defrost" I guess it is safe to assume that the rest of the system is OK, and the "defrost" circuit somehow opens this vacuum up to atmosphere, causing a vacuum leak. However, you might want to find this line supplying vacuum to the white accumulator canister, and try removing it and plugging the end with your finger, while the engine is running; If the engine idles better than it normally does with your finger plugging the line off, there may be issues elsewhere in the entire apparatus, as well. Feel free to post any further questions, I am not going into any more detail immediately. It sounds like you've got the issue under control.

Tie-wire or baling wire is a good long-term "rig" to fix this, too.

couple of quick questions.. the car doesn't run, so you dont have a chance for a CEL.. ask the PO if he ever saw one. If you haven't yet run a D-check, do so. Also, try blowing some compressed air backwards through the fuel line to make sure it bubbles into the tank with vigor.. restrictions in the line could cause FP problems, too... without totally cutting off the flow. If your FP checks out fine, check spark and timing... and then start hunting around and check all your vacuum lines. If all that is kosher, then it may be time to do a manual check of all the FI sensors and components for proper operation... which means that some of the mechanical devices involved in the air flow control etc. ought to be removed, disassembled, and cleaned. I would start with the TPS and the MAF, since either one of these could easily malfunction in a way that would gradually get worse, to a point of complete failure of the FI system. I mean, you obviously know what to do with a wrench in your hand.. so I am in no position to talk down to you and whatnot... I just thought a nice, third-party breakdown on how to proceed from here might be helpful I will go out on a limb and say that I doubt you are having a fuel pressure issue.. but pressure is nothing without flow. if the pump IS shot, there is a pump out of a ford pickup truck that is easily swappable... search around if you haven't heard about it yet.

interesting slew of responses.. of course, no one from florida chimed in with any of the legalities local to me, but most of the responses were about what I had figured. I have three U-pull-it yards local to me, two of them owned by the same company. I know they have no qualms selling cars off their lot, as one of the lots has an area that ALWAYS has about 6 cars for sale on it... Despite that, I have gotten pretty well the same response from them as anticipated. However, I haven't been asking with cash on the barrelhead. I have also often considered asking them what I could get "the works" off of a vehicle for... since most of the time, thats all I care about. I ought to post a similar question on craiglist and see if I can get any good responses on my local laws, because this question has always puzzled me. Obviously the laws vary from state to state within the US.. I would imagine other countries are probably about the same. Any of our Latin American or Australian market friends care to chime in? (and no, I am not dismissing our neighbors to the north as being "more or less just like us"... )

Well, I just watched another YouTube video that I thought was the same series, and they were most certainly filiming in the scottish highlands, and I thought either they mentioned the BBC or the people who posted the video did... I will also add that I HAD thought the brumby video was australian, until I encountered this second vid that I thought was the same series, AND i had gotten the impression was BBC produced. So, I don't know where my misapprehension occurred, but I noticed it happening. I just hadn't caught it yet.

General reference, SPFI stands for Single Point.. as opposed to MPFI, Multi Point.. alternatively, you can refer to them as throttle body injection, or tuned port injection.. Search the forum using the name Gerenal Disorder for EFI swap, or just swap.. he has done a wonderful write-up on how easy it is to switch the FI to an ea-81, and switching a carb'ed ea-82 to efi would be even simpler... Sorry, I had to say it. If you have not read GD's write-up on the swap yet, give it a skim.... because it really is not difficult, and it REALLY is worth it. the SPFI system, when all sensors are functioning properly, works like a top, every time, no matter what the atmospheric conditions are.. AND all the components are individually verifiable, using a multimeter and sometimes an assistant. I only make the point to beg you to consider the option before the other car gets hauled off... you sound like you want to run the carb engine FIRST, at the very least. However, this FI system (unlike many) is much much more simple than any carb, and the FSM is more than enough to "train" you for it.

I don't buy that for some of these cars... I mean, I haven't done ral research regarding number of vehicles registered, but I am an observant guy.. and some of these cars in my three local you-pull-it yards would HAVE to go for more whole than for parts... There just are NOT that many triumph, or fiat, or porsche guys who still FREQUENT the junkyards for their cars to make it worth their while, when they have a 2-4 week turnaround... Is there ANY legal issue in any state, that ANYone is aware of?? I have sked myself the same question many times...

That can mean that they are in bed together (like ford and mazda, among many other pairings) or it can also simply mean "funding for a restructuring." Peugeot owns a significant hunk of nissan, or bought it at one point in the late 90's.. is some influence felt? I am sure, but its mostly just corporate DNA-swapping.. its how these big companies keep each other afloat so high and mighty over us little folk

Possibly a bad switch? the switch literally switches the vacuum pressure to one of several ports, and vacuum pressure at that port is what activates that subsystem.. More likely, the vacuum line on the back of your switch for the floor setting is off. Take your gauge pod apart and check it out, there are four (i think?) vacuum lines coming off the back, and the one supply line. it should be fairly obvious. that is not to say it will be fairly QUICK..

Yuh, THAT one. i knew there was SOMEthing about the turbo.. i thought it was TT but thats it, it was sticking out of the hood. THAT was an awesome looking superbrat.. that "brat-ram" thing, ugh.

Tempus Fugit?!??? PRICELESS!!!!! I am STILL chuckling... I like the plaque, but here is another option (the .s are just there to hold the space): ...THIS .CAR IS A TRAPEZOID

looks like this one got dug up on purpose, though.

That, or, some lobbyists who can "get things done." God Bless America.

Bingo, this is a vacuum switch, and it needs vacuum supply to switch. The vacuum supply comes off the intake manifold towards the rear, passenger's side of the engine bay, and goes to a white canister in that same corner of the engine bay. then out of the canister, along the trunkline, into the cabin. The engine is probably sputtering a little, too?

I saw a vid on youtube of a brat that had "a wrx engine" in it that ran in the tens.. it was one of those clips from the BBC car show, I can't recall the name of the series right now.. They *may* have said which engine it was, but it was TT (i think?) search for it, it was called a brumby naturally.. and they raced it against a 1-liter ducati... neat vid, to be honest. nice brat, too.

is it overly arrogant of me to presume that I can hit 12-14 ft-lbs of torque by my own estimation, by hand with a wrnehc or ratchet?? I mean, I like to think I can, and any time I have checked my jobs I was pretty much dead-on.. and obviously major things like wheel bearings, engine assembly etc. CERTAINLY need to be done with a torque wrench.. I often bypass them because I know the difference between 35 and 50 ft-lbs, between 20 and 16 and 12.... and I can know when I hit my lug nuts pretty well, too. (although I somehow doubt I'm the only one who does THAT by ear..) ON! hehee, I have been waiting to use that one