daeron

jack the car up, four corners, jackstands. be outside. start car, climb underneath (CAREFUL but i HOPE that goes without saying.. MUST HAVE A BUDDY AROUND) jiggle the wires to the fuel pump. see if you can get it to die. it could be a bad wire.

not lazy, eager!! weber == gooood. easy to tune, easy to tweak in the future, easy to get help with. lots of people use em, far beyond subaru land.

steering rack bushings??? i had a similar problem on my Zcar once and that was the issue.... the bushings would allow for some slop of the rack side-to-side, and it wouldnt self-center for nothing.....

you know... because of your avatar, i always picture you working on your car in that tux..... often brings me a chuckle. thanks.

ummm.. random idea, and it may be a long shot... have you checked ATF fluid? remember, check it with vehicle hot, running, in park... is it spfi? if so, find the FSM somewhere, or PM me asking me to email it. gimme your email address, and tell meif you can accept 2 attachments totalling less than 10 megabytes. lots of troubleshooting info in there, but you may want to read it all through once, and maybe even twice, THEN go back and look for what your trouble is. if you understand how the whole system works (not hard to grok, but somewhat complex. lots of little steps and switches and sensors, thats all.) then you can understand why it tells you to do these things in this order... I cant think of what components might be causing your trouble right now, but the FSM can tell you.. im tired, thats all. PM and i can email, or if someone else has a link to download it? i didnt wanna bookmark the link and re post it, cuz it wasnt my site to funnel traffic to.

never hurts to check the distributor timing adjustment with a light when youre done.

socket universal, or an extender bar with a rounded tip to let the socket swivel a bit on the end????? you could also take a spare open end wrench and heat it up some (not much) take it to a vise and put a 90 degree bend in it to make it a crow's foot.. do the same to the box end, find a bolt and nut and some washers that fit in the box socket end, set the bolt head on the outside of the box end, then a washer, then a nut to go into the box, then another washer and another nut. then, put your ratchet on the bolt head. i havent investigated the bolt in question... but it was a thought. maybe my idea, or something like it, can help.

read: JC whitney

beataru.. taking the thermostat out of a car desnt cause it to overheat unless the radiator is partially blocked. it CAN happen, but its far from a rule.. down here in south florida, lots of us just yank em instead of replacing, because we never have to worry about a truly "cold" start. just FYI. someone had to tell me once, not too long ago.

did you replace the 20 year old hoses, or is it possible that you now have a major fuel leak that you didnt notice? hoses can crack sometimes

i gathered that it was a two lane road, with bgd in right lane.. honda was going ~30(?) mph, below minimum speed, with no blinkers. BGD suddenly realized that he needed to get out of that lane (albeit possibly later than ideally) and tried to do so, but the 70mph camaro refused to yield to his signal, brake lights, and jab out to that lane.. camaro went a bit to the shoulder and continued blowing by, knocked bgd into a clockwise spin and he landed in the middle median/divider rail.... something close to that at least.... and BGD was going a reasonable speed, maybe a bit over but the flow of traffic, which was 50-55.. camaro was doing 70. thats what happens when you stuff an old corvette engine into a cheapo chassis and stick some numbskull behind the wheel and make him think he has a real car under him. I like camaros!! but they need to be BUILT into a sportscar/hotrod.. they do NOT come from the factory with much Chevy actually made a 1-le edition which was essentially a race-prepped camaro, with upgraded suspension (i think macphersons or coilovers all around, i forget tho) and a full rollcage, as well as an LT-1 engine (my chevy engine nomenclature may be TOTALLY off, please dont quote me on that)

LOL, at least this time GD wasnt the "rump roast" :-p sorry, that was just funny to see between two so knowledgeable people, when its atypical for either of you to make a misconception like that. someone needed a cup of coffee, methinks

factory battery terminals still??? if so, junk em. new battery cables never hurt anything. check the alternator to make sure its not outputting AC voltage... was it new or remanufactured? just because you paid for it, doesn't mean its good... if you replace the battery cables, you can use the old positive cable (sans the cheapo stamped copper terminal that is bolted onto the cable lug) as a nice, handy battery to chassis ground strap. score!!

have you examined the spark for qaulity and whatnot?? just an idea to throw out there.. i have no clue what might make it change when warm, but electricity does weird things at weird temperatures...

+1 on two toolboxes for the soob.

denatured alcohol can be your friend... i dont have emissions testing here, so i keep hoping someone will take my advice. I can still remember getting the readout on our van when we used the alcohol.. a new rebuilt carb didnt even get us thru emissions, but the alcohol passed with flying colors.. i forget which was which, but either HC or CO count was virtually zero(<5 ppm), and the other was absurdly low.

standard fuel additive for carb/fuel injector cleaning, IE seafoam or lucas?? have you tried them yet? beyond that, i dunno... sticking float usually means you cant be a lazy SOB :-p

a rear wheel, spin happy ride like the datsuns??? have you ever driven a datsun on a dirt road?????? they are GREAT cars, but when you put em next to anything 4wd.. pfft for offroading, i say... PFFFT!! the pick-em-ups, now THATS different.

there is also a little pulse sensor that mounts hanging in front of the pulley that has to be lined up good and plugged in to get it to work, too.

ooompy.. that car looks great..... much envy.

85 digidash == go get an aftermarket temp gauge. much better and more reliable readout than stock. thats the conclusion ive been led to, because my car's behavior caused me to question whether voltage drops were being registered as heat spikes. read up on the digital dash and the accuracy of the gauges.. do a search digi +temp, that oughta do ya... the consensus seems to be that an aftermarket gauge is your best bet.

FAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHKKKK!!!!! dude, you just declared your work "done" like, yesterday!!!!!!!! no words. Mr Talkative here has nothing to say. see line #1 of my post, and repeat.

my electric fan is wired to spin constantly with the key in the acceosries or on position.. i jumpered the plug to my thermoswitch because my thermoswitch was bad and the one on the JY radiator had a different plug. for my buck, id leave one on the thermoswitch, and set one up to come on with the AC, or via an override switch. its a good idea to use a relay for the fan rather than run that kind of amperage thru a switch in your cabin, though.. for tips on that do a search with my name and relay to find a good post i made about installing one on my starter.

mechanical gauge == mo bettah if you ask me. no sending unit to fail, no wires to corrode, just a small oil line that MIGHT CONCEIVABLY somehow rupture.. but thats highly bloody unlikely. sure, mechanical is supposed to mean moving parts to break, where electrical is supposed to last "forever...." but you have an electrical gauge now and if that one is being called into question... get my point?

yes, it will switch on without the AC on. that is its primary function, regardless of whether the AC switches it on as well or not. if it does not, you need a new thermoswitch. EA82 cars with no AC had only the electric fan, the clutch fan was the "add-on" for the additional capacity needed, as someone stated above.