daeron

for 200 bux, you should be able to recover AT LEAST part of that in selling parts, WORST case scenario. you should check for fuel, too (spark+fuel+compression=motor!) other things to look at, quality of oil in crankcase, quality of coolant in radiator, and presence of one fluid in the other's system (oil in coolant, vice versa) good luck!! my dad bought one brand new in 89 and it was (still is) about the coolest car ive ever ridden in...

come to think of it, the XT6 _was_ the first car I ever saw with one wiper.. memories....

have you tapped on all the trim pieces around the passenger side rear windows? i know you said you came to the conclusion that its under the car, but so had I..... i still bet one of them is a little loose. ive yet to see one of these plastic retainer clips that didnt show its 10, 15, 20 years of age...

well, its not that bad. just itching to make sure its optimal, thats all.. the way I see it theres a good chance that its funk-nasty in there, so i may as well clean it out. I use rain-x too, doubleplusgood. I actually have gotten to the point where I use the rain-x washer fluid... two birds, one stone. I tend to forget to re apply the rain-x until its grossly overdue.. and then cant find the godforsaken bottle.... etc etc. Im probably not gonna see any improvement, this is probably simply how they came. How much can I erally expect, yanno? I'm just tweaking, thats all.

ahh, I see.. to be honest, it never occurred to me to say stuff the trunk release, just rig it to run the gas door and be done with it. I prefer to keep stuff working, and hate HAVING to use my key to open the trunk... but I see youre point. I had a much easier time wire tying it together thanks to my handy access hole. ("big props" are in order to my man Oxidation for that one!! thanks bud!) Before i fixed it, you could just reach in the hole and grab the whole cable, and pull it to open the trunk.. now that doesnt work anymore, because before the outer insulation (gas door "cable") was sliding on the inner wire (trunklid "cable") and then ultimately just tugged the inner wire.. but now its all solid. obviously, though, if you dont mind using your key (and if it even occurs to you ) your solution is a bit simpler.

thanks GD, i was astounded to see how much they charge for piddlingly small tubes of dielectric grease.. this is just a project ive got on my to do list that probably wont get taken care of for a while, but i DO have one tiny packet of the stuff left. Thats not insulating, is it? i smeared it all over the contacts of the relay i just installed for my starter circuit, just to keep them clean.. and all over my battery terminals, and just about anything else i could find because i had some left over. I managed to make one tiny packet go one ridiculous long way... but as soon as I get a job im gonna need to buy me a decent sized tube.

I was looking at it the other day.. and most of the electrical motors that I have seen dissected out of cars that were 20 years old showed there wear and tear on the inside. Most were surprisingly in good shape, though, and would have benefited from a thorough cleaning and re-lube at some point in their life. I ask this because im pondering taking my wiper motor apart and cleaning the brushes/coils etc. Theres bound to be scads of grunge built up since it was built, and i doubt its ever been replaced. Im doing this in the hopes that it, along with a linkage lubejob, will give me increased wiper speed, something that even a 90 amp alternator did not achieve. Once electrical resistance in the power circuit had been eliminated as a cause (there was no difference at all in the wipers.. the lights and everything else stayed steadier, but the wipers havent ever been an "issue," just annoyingly slow) I figured i would eliminate mechanical resistance and give-er a rebuild.. I may end up finding a few bad brushes that I need to snag some donor parts out of a junkyard but hey.. I bet its worth it. Anyhow, has anyone else ever tried this? An electric motor is usually a simple enough thing, i dont THINK im gonna get in over my head.. I just hope i dont break anything. If I do ive got a NOS unit from my uncle, but i want to try and sell that, not use it....

oh yah.. _I_ wouldnt do it, im just enjoying the thought exercise.

okay, you obviously understand how it all functions, and it sounds like yours broke the same way mine did. the little retaining collar that holds the outer cable onto the lever broke, right? i simply got some fairly thin tie-wire, wrapped it around the cable insulator a couple of times, and then kinda started wrapping it around the lever like the way a tomohawk head is wrapped onto a stick with a piece of leather.. crossing over, and changing the cross-over diagonal, etc etc.. I twisted the wire end back over onto the cable, and it has held now for a good seven or eight months. It was no big deal until i started putting 500 miles a week on the car delivering pizzas.. because i could reach into my rust hole and pull the lever by hand.. can you see my point, about how the mecahnism could take some time to describe? sorry for the laziness earlier, but at least ive found a fix. If i ever get around to it, i may even strengthen the bond by surrounding it all with JB weld, like i said i would when i first tied it together.

a ghetto job could be done by simply adjusting the travel of the passengers side wiper.. but it would look funny and probably work poorly. to get the stock travel of the motor/linkage assembly to cover the whole windshield you would need an arm with a funny bend to it, and the right sized blade. Its not as simple to visualize as it might seem though.

yep, its broken. you push the lever down to open the gas door.. i could go on in detail on how the cable system works, as the entire functional apparatus has been exposed on my car by a giant rust hole just above the gas door, encompassing the bottom corner of the rear window... i havent got any pics tho, as i have no digi. I took some on a friend's cam once, but she never emailed em to me :- ( anyhow, its a long-winded thing to have to describe, and you probably wont be able to acess it very easily. most people pry it open and disable it somehow.

didnt you read his last post? he is a drinker, not some acid crazed flower child like some of us..... SHEESH....

Fma.

thats purdy..... alot purdier than that there lil old chevy luv truck.... and i edited rather than make another post, because i also forgot to say HOLY FREAKIN COW about the deuce myself..

hmmm.. i see the machinist being trained in my head running around terrified right now.. I accidentally cross threaded the large bolt that holds down the rear of the AC compressor (inboard AC) on the 87 spfi ea-82. I wound up getting a helicoil kit, drilling and tapping, inserting the helicoil with loctite, and fastening everything down. It seemed somehow less than ideal when I did it, in a way i couldn't explain. It has held tight for a few omnths now, high mileage months too. I now know what caused me to feel something was awkward.. I didnt use a bottoming tap to thread the helicoil all the way in.... I was unaware of the need for such, at the time. Now I read GDs explanation of what he did and I understand, and I'm slapping myself in the forehead. i dont know how i could have thought that would have been sufficient.. but at least this is not my head stud or something here. I dont think its going to be a problem, but I'd be interested to see what anyone else thinks about what I did.. as in, how long might it last. Well, at least I won't make that mistake again!

Over-compensation. Could also be termed as "Because Mines THIS big!" while holding up your thumb and forefinger indicating about two inches of length.

now, ive never seen the mechanical linkage between the two wipers on the GL, and ive never seen the wiper setup on the XT(6) since my dads got repo'd back in 93.... BUT, I would imagine that if both motors are the same, you could possibly take the linkage or the motor/linkage assembly out of the XT, and remove the DRIVERs side wiper from your loyale.. and find a wiper arm/blade combination to make the passenger side wiper wipe the whole windshield. As GD said though, its a matter of the roofline.. but my brother did something similar on his CRX by simply replacing the passenger arm with a different one, loosening the bolt on it, and rotating it to where it covered the appropriate area in its travel..

bgd: if it does have any power issues (which i doubt) you can always go to the junkyard and pick up an alternator from a mid 80s-early 90s maxima. 90 amps, and it bolts in and fits great. the only hard parts are: A) pulley swap, not such a huge deal if you have "alternator/starter/battery" shops in your area still... and even if not, it can be done at home with some ingenuity.. and you have to slip the belt onto the pulley before threading either of the bolts. It works fine, tensions fine, i have an almost new belt (~5K miles on it and no _apparent_ stretch) and if it were looser it would probably be easier. so two MINIMAL amounts of effort for an otherwise straight swap. take some pictures of what you do, as I have to put a stereo into mine, and I have a kit.. but no DIN cage for the stereo. I am using the small space below to install a cupholder out of a toyota corolla

i had a "flutter" issue on my NA gl-10 that sounded similar to what youre describing... when i parked the car at idle, i could just hear a minor spitting out the exhaust, like a kick of the engine.. and it got pretty well constant... sorta like, if the typical idling exhaust note could be transcribed as a PbPbPbPbPbPb..... noise.. then my flutter was like a PbP*pf*PbP*pf* I fixed it by discovering that the vacuum line going to the white accumulator for AC controls (and i believe maybe other things on soobs with different driveline) was diconnected. plugging the end of the line (from the motor, not the canister) fixed it, as did simply re-attaching it to the accumulator. Maybe your accumulator is bad? My main point was, I had a minor vacuum leak that was auxiliary to the function of the motor. The vacuum line that was leaking did not go to anything controlling the motor istelf, so nothing like that was malfunctioning.. but there was still a constant loss of pressure. nothing like a good old fashioned mechanic's stethoscope to trace down that flutter...

okay, i hope someone else here will remember details of that episode or else this is gonna look REALLY weird..... "Look everybody!!! John Hancock is writing his name in the Snow!!!"

ED!!!! that is a FANTASTIC job polishing those wheels. just a simple pat on the back, thats all.

ive been out of work for two weeks. sanity indeed. itll get better soon, i promise!!!! im just laying about the house poking on the internet for jobs ALOT, and also using it to pass the time. i dont do the whole television thing. I mean, theres a set in the living room, but i dont even think my VCR is plugged into it. I cant even guarantee the TV is plugged into the wall.. and i just talk when i have something to say. theres no obsessive compulsive aspect involved at all. honest. at least, all the little voices in my head are telling me there isnt.....

I just read about what your buddy was saying as he was wiping the final polish off.. "yessir by cracky, smoother than a frog's hair" my friend matts older brother craig restored his dads 87 GT5.0 mustang a few years back.. painted it about the same color.. and at the same stage in the finishing, he was saying the exact same thing. i swear, word for word. "yessir, by cracky!! smoother than a frog's hair!!" was your friend EVER in south florida? my buddy matt has also lived in connecticut and michigan (he went to gross pointe high school for a year, actually) but i dont think his older brother lived with the family at the time... craig shand. ask your buddy if he knows that name. otherwise, this is an ODD coincidence..

:sad::sad::sad::sad::sad: and i was looking for what it was gonna cost him to buy everything piecemeal, as I never find a dead soob for sale. I do find enough in the boneyards to get me by, and all you need is the one vehicle out there.. but the boneyard people arent very informed around here. they just all went through a modernization process that involved hiring a bunch of people who couldnt identify a wiper motor as a wiper motor if they had to, that are now running the registers and everything.. and there is the one token guy there who knows what he is doing. i havent actually talked to anyone about the possibility of me throwing them like, $150 for a blanket of whatever i would need off the car for the swap yet.. but i doubt it would fly. and I just want 2wd.......with a fivespeed. i mean, 4wheel would be nice and all...... but FAR from necessary. I'd probably only use it in the rain, although it might convince me to get some big tires on some spare wheels and go play in the mud once in a while... but far from necessary. I told myself that the only way that would happen is if i can find a donor car for 100 bux.

the crankshaft timing belt pulley is held in place on the shaft by a Woodruff Key. Its a small metal tooth that slide into a groove on the crankshaft nose, and a corresponding groove on the timing belt sprocket. your problems may well be there. i know the key itself is like 3 dollars at a dealer, and they had it in stock when i went for it. incidentally, i didnt need it. but you may need the key, or the sprocket, or quite likely both. I had this issue once on a geo with an isuzu motor in it (geo storm) and I was told to replace the bolt holding it in, too. that bolt was like 23 bucks or something, not cheap.. but i had a great amount of difficulty getting it off, and THAT may have been the reason everyone told me to replace it as well. this was about six years ago, and i have learned so much more about mechanicking since then, that i just dont recall.. but if you crank the engine, and the timing belt is DEFINITELY intact (read: do not buy parts without seeing the front of the engine) then your problem is most likely going to be with that key or the sprocket, not the crankshaft itself (although its possible) its engineered like that so that it can go bad without destroying the crankshaft and necessitating MUCH more work :- ) good luck, it shouldnt be that big a deal. replacing oil seals while youve got pulleys off is an excellent idea too.