daeron

what i would do... i cant say anything about my current soobie, because all i would want to do is make a 1987 GL-10 STI. ANY soob project, though.. i would probably work on taking an EJ driveline and retrofit it into a 1988-90 honda CRX HF chassis. take it and do whatever would be needed to rotate the ENTIRE driveline through 180 degrees, and put it into the CRX as a rear engine AWD monster.. and then waterproof it, put the propeller on the back, and have an AWD 2000LB flat sports car that could still drive around if our roads were totally flooded out from a hurricane.. that would be ABOUT the only point to der schwimmwagen conversion to me. im not much of a swamper/wheeler. i probably would be into it more.. if local offroading didnt mean driving around in mudd puddles. no hills, ditches, NOWHERE in south florida does the elevation change rapidly at all. you get at best a six foot high/deep hill/ditch.

cost, beats me. im not thinking about doing it, thats just the info ive picked up thru osmosis here :- ) as for the car, check it over rather tohoroughly for rust. ask about water pumps and such. check the oil on the dipstick and make sure its good and black. if it looks like a milkshake thats not good, its water in the oil. check the water in the radiator, for the same thing. it should be clean water or antifreeze, if its VERY cloudy and brownish, then theres possibly a headgasket issue. ask about driving habits and maybe try and see if you can get him to admit its been overheated. get it?? dont ASK outright, but hint and see if you cven get him to admit it or not.. headgaskets on these motors like to go. if you got that, you can wrench them down in price a little bit the headgaskets are VERY easy to do, not as intimidating as you might think on say, a late model chevy... they just have to be done right. check for rust through and through, if you dont find any and the car is in good mechanical shape as determined by a test drive, then id say 750 isnt unreasonable.. not a price to be bragging around about, alot of use are in the 100 dollar range.. mine was free..... but you wouldnt be getting bent over backwards either. these cars are SUPER reliable as long as you keep the cooling system happy. its a non interference engine, which means if you blow a timing belt it doesnt destroy the valves.. and its super easy to work on. if you are a marginal shadetree mechanic, this car will teach you EVERYTHING you dont know. if youre clueless, this car will teach you how to fix cars. if youre already a seasoned shadetree, prepare to learn enough to make you feel like you engineered it. they are THAT simple, and that well designed. what else would you expect from the ONE group of JAPANESE engineers that decided, "hey, lets just rip volkswagen off!! THEY seem to have a good thing going!" Nissan did it with mercedes, toyota and mazda rode thru on their coattails.. but subaru did it best, and didnt get noticed until the 90s. oh, and you lucked out. im MR long winded, so i figured i would save other people some time and just give you the whole shebang. if you buy the car, this site is your new best friend.

try using the search feature, as i dont have many links that are all that helpful. I'll give you the skinny on most of it though. Engine: your loyale you are looking at has a single point fuel injection system. it has one injector into a throttle body, its basically a glorified electrical carburetor. Subaru made this engine with a MPFI turbo, but you would need the complete engine/ecu/turbo/crossmember i think/maybe other stuff to do the swap; no turbocharging your motor. turbo motors have much lower compression, and the weak point on these engines is the headgaskets.. you start playing with high comp turbo, or even high boost low comp turbo motors, you WILL blow a headgasket. eventually, at least. you want more than 10.00 miles, right? the simple answer is to swap to a newer, EJ22 engine from a legacy. the loyale uses the EA82 engine. (also, loyale =GL/DL after like 1984, for all intents and purposes. we use EA82 to name the modeal rather than loyale/gl/gl10/dl whatever blah blah because the engine is essentially the definition of the model, the names just indicate age and trim level) To swap to the EJ, youd need basically everything you would need to swap to an EA82 Turbo.. but you are getting a more reliable engine, with more power and displacement to start off with. and you can turbo THAT. i dont know alot about those motors, so this is where i stop this train. suspension:If you dont mod it to use a later axle setup, you have no aftermarket suspension options. maybe urethane bushings, but thats it. no springs, no shocks/strut cartridges, just stockers..... the five lug swap commonly done allows you suspension options, wheel options, and gives you an opportunity to do brake options as well... brakes/wheels: wheels, you CAN find subaru factory alloys or mags, and you can find wheels off a peaugeot that fit. otherwise, see above regarding the five lug swap. these studs are just too far apart. the offroaders take six lug japtruck rims and use two original holes, and drill two more holes... but that only works on rims from a nissan/toyota pickup, and leaves four empty holes in the rim. VW rims looks like they might fit, but the soob is just a HAIR (5mm) wider. brakes, you DO have a few options on without making any other MAJOR conversions.. but im not all that familiar with what you can do, and im clueless as to where youd get the parts from. if you see a soob in the junkyard that has brakes youd like to put on your car, and that soob looks like yours, itll probly bolt right in. (actually, that holds true for pretty much anything on the car.. if the subaru looks about the same, itll probably fit. rule of thumb, often broken, but more often right) also, if youre going to make this a performance car, you should make sure you have properly functioning water temp, and oil pressure gauges. the factory ones (i dont know if they were even there as late as 92) are NOT the greatest. there is the soob-in-a-nutshell. as i said, use the search function to read discussions that have gone on in the past. thats the best way to get the general knowledge youre looking for. all things considered, once you make sure youve got good factory suspension again, and some good wide tires underneath of her, this car handles fairly well. the brakes are adequate, and i dont even have rear discs.. once you go through a good thorough 100K tuneup, these motors actually surprise you. 84 hp max (or 90, depending on which chart you read) but they get 114 ft-lb of torque, so they actually move around quite nicely. get the subaru!! you will love it. everyone else does, if they bother to pay attention to what it needs.

ive gotta find me one of these here "e a eighty ones" yall keep jawin about... i have NEVER seen one in my junkyards. :- (

youre right, the passenger side was 180 out. alot of people miss that step of rotating the 180 degrees between installing the two timing belts. its been written up a number of times, and there is actually a standardized version of it in the USRM.. so you can do it, but do it to tell your story more than anything else. weve got one we point at for people who come asking about it. Apparently we failed to point you towards it, but theres ALOT of info in the USRM. top right corner of your screen, click where it says USRM. bingo, now youre golden. talk to you in a few days when youve read all that stuff, it is a BOATLOAD of help when you need it.

you paid 25 dollars for a kit that included faceplates for four different cars?!??!! where did you buy it from!??!!?? EDIT and given the nature of this post, I'm going to weigh in now that I think its a bit more appropriate here than in the for sale forum. Im normally all in the interests of proper classification, but as he said he isnt trying to make a profit so much as hook three people up.

im pretty sure youre exactly wrong on that... i would say the extra high end power is from the MAF telling your computer how much air really is flowing in there... and the lower end response would be improved by better ignition parts and reneweing the air filter element to establish the proper flow into the engine... I may be wrong about this, but if i am then ive got to go back and correct a few misconceptions in my head.

sounds like me. and i look around my room at the virtual ballpit surrounding me... how am i a clean freak on my greasball oil leaking motor, but have this filth in my bedroom??? *resists the urge to make a you know youre a soob owner if.. post that he KNOWS has already been posted before*

thats a switch?????? i thought i broke it when i was changing my trunklid, and had somehow hobbled it back together. great, now im no longer living in fear of the day i can get my trunk open!!! you also just saved me the pre-emptive replacement, too.... it seems kinda pointless though.. i mean, so you throw the switch and no one who breaks into your car can open your trunk... unless they go thru the back seat.....

+1 not to mention the fact that were talking about a cast piece here, which is liable to breakage. not LIKELY, but possible. secondly, put the PB Blaster away. I used to love the stuff, but i have found a better product. its more expensive, but its worth it.. Yes, I'im going to take this opportunity to once again sing the praises of SeaFoam DeepCreep. It is to PB B'laster, what PB B'laster is to WD-40. I dont even bother with PB anymore, i use a cheap can of WD40 to spray on and clean off as NorthWet described in his first post, then i get the deep creep onto it and let it sit. the stuff has rust-eating chemicals or something in it.. it just penetrates and frees more of what makes things stick than the PB does... I use it to take pliers and diagonal cutters that should be thrown away and make them feel like brand new.. even if left outside untouched for a month... Pick it ip and work it a ocuple times, you start to see the box joint get moist from the deep creep working out....

is this anything like "gm synchromesh" oil? i use wuotes because its a product ive heard my brother talk about, and talked with him about it, ALOT.. but never actually seen a package.... he swears by it, had a civic tranny that gradually got harder and harder to put into 2nd.. finally it wouldnt give for nothing, and he replaced the oil with synchromesh (had replaced it with standrad lube already) and after about 100 miles you couldnt tell there had EVER been a problem. he said it was something like 15-18 bucks a quart, but worth it. I figure if its gonna be in there for 20K miles (or more, lets be honest) then i guess its worth it.

no wait, you said two fusible links arent getting power????? this is impossible, the power feed to all four fusible links is the same piece of metal. check for power on both sides of each fusible link. you WILL have power on one side of ALL of them, or you wont have power to any of them. if im wrong, then you need to unplug the fusible links themselves, and make sure you are testing for power to the feed side of the fusible link block. it sounds to me like you have two bad green fusible links. do you understand my point? theres a power wire soldered to a copper plate, that goes up to form the plug on one side of each fusible link. the other side of each fusible link plugs into a wire terminal connected to whatever circuit its connected to... so if you test for voltage on the hot side, you will get it one all terminals or none. if your testing by setting your probe down on the power feed side of the actual fusible link terminal (read: the piece of metal crimped onto the fusble link wire, instead of touching the metal that it plugs into) and not getting voltage, then for some reason, despite the fact that the metal on metal contact is RIGHT in front of you, its NOT making a contact. THAT is specifically what happens to my car to give it the DOA syndrome. I go and wiggle the back fusilble link (its green) on the engine side, and it works again.

okay... youve got NO POWER anywhere in the car?? is that what youre saying? and after writing about half of this, let me apologize in advance if i sound condescending. Ive got no idea how much you know.. yanno? im going to assume that, since its what i can tell from your posts.. if your battery cables are still original, i would try replacing them first. thats about ten bucks for the pair. check all the wires that are coming off of the positive battery terminal.. turn the key to on, and go under the hood, take each wire from the terminal and wiggle every single inch of it. there will be one large wire going to the fusible link block, as well as the HUGE wire going down to the starter. the huge wire powers the starter motor; the big wire going to your fusible link block powers EVERYTHING else. it doesnt look so big anymore, does it? ive had a persistent problem getting that big wire to make a good connection to the fusible link block. im thinking of drilling the block to put a good place to secure the wire into it with a cable lug. anyhow, once youve wiggled all that, then make sure you slide the fusible link terminal plugs up and down a couple times. you won't get shocked by touching these wires, its only 12VDC and youre wearing shoes. If you have a multimeter or a test light, it would ge GREAT to check for voltage on both sides of each fusible link. if youre good that far, then its time to go into the car and pull the shourd off the steering column. at this point, you almost NEED a test light or a multimeter. to use a test light, you clamp the wire end onto a good vehicle chassis ground, and touch the probe end to where you are looking for voltage (try the battery terminal first if in doubt.. you see? the bulb comes on.) Now, once youve removed the plastic shroud around the steering column, look at the backside of the ignition switch. (the cars over 20 years old.. its okay to look at her backside:lol: ) With the key turned to off, check all of the large wires soldered to the back. one should have power. turn the key to on, and check them all again. they should now almost all have power.. one will only get power when you turn the key to start (duh) as far as i know...... if you have power at all the terminals on the back of your keyswitch, guess what, your car works fine. i dont care what you say it works FINE! seriously though, that should about cover it. if your switch is bad, then get a replacement. its a straightforward job, the ignition keylock/switch assembly is in two pieces.. once you take it off the steering coumn (you may have to drill these bolts out-- they arent supposed to be easily removable, or else it would be that easy to steal the car) the switch is removed from the back of the lock with one or two small screws. make sure you bring the old switch along, and the lock as well, to compare to the new switch so you dont get the wrong one. test fit it in the store, and bring the key so you can run it through all positions and make sure its fine. never hurts to save an extra trip to the store. good luck, and enjoy my book on how to bring electricity back into your soob. I'll be at your local mall signing copies sometime soon!!!

I must disagree with you on this, General. Youre right about torqueing things down properly, but your IR 2135 that says it torques down to 600 ft-lbs does in fact achieve a maximum of 600 ft-lbs on a bolt... as you said, WHEN properly supplied with air (almost never.) I worked rebuilding those things for some time, and we had a hydraulic gauge i used to test them with.. it registered immediately how tight this 1 7/8" nut was on a gauge, and if you fully wail on it, (full trigger, no valve tapering the flow down, with a proper 1/2 inch air flow, no 3/8,) for a good ten or fifteen seconds, it will achieve that torque. now, im not saying that it should be used for such.. quite the contrary, those tools are designed to achieve max torque in reverse. They are designed and built, and should be used, for REMOVING high torque or unnaturally tight nuts. the best way they can be used in re assembly is as a shortcut, with a torqu wrench used to properly wrench it down to final specification. There is no way to "control" or "pre-set" the torque output of any gun, because that output is a factor of the volume of air supplied, and the pressure at which it is supplied. in any real air compressor system, both of those factors change in a manner that is non-linear in respect to each other, so there is no constant setting that will reach your goal.. and beside, as you said, it only takes 200 lbs of force times a 3 foot cheater bar to achieve that same 600 lbs of torque, AND 600 lbs is about 3 times what anything on a car should be tightened to, EVER.. so in other words, your impact gun is made to take your lugnuts/flywheel bolts/axle nuts OFF.... and if you use one to put them back on then only use it until it snugs down. then stop, and use a torque wrench with cheater bar, if needs be, to get your 40, 70, 100, 150 ft-lbs of torque.

million bucks says its a piece of aluminum trim along the windows somewhere. that took me two years to trace down, and all i had to do was have someone in the passengers side back seat roll the window down on my sedan, and put their hand on the piece of painted trim surrounding the rear quarter window. I dont know what kind of trim like this you have on your wagon, but theres gotta be something surrounding the rear side windows, right? tap on that piece and i guarantee itll rattle a little bit. right at about 40 mph. sometimes, not other times, and its hard to "make" it happen. it just kinda starts a mild rattling.... because whatever retainer clips it has are 20 years old, petrified, and have no spring left to them. if I am wrong about this I'm going to stop posting on this board for a while. in other words, im so sure im right, if im wrong, im just going to shut up on principle.

installing a mechanical gauge is a wise idea for any car youre going to race. may as well fail to trust the factory water temp gauge while youre at it, and hey why not add a boost gauge too.. theres a nice little bay below your ashtray where three gauges will fit quite nicely.......

starters are not hard to repair, IF you can get ahold of the parts. you can check online at http://www.thepartsbin.com or http://www.rockautoparts.com or probably find a couple of other chains with stores near you.. BUT if you are buying a rebuilt starter you are buying a starter that someone in a factory in taiwan, or mexico, or wherever has taken apart and done EXACTLY what you can do, for less, if you can buy the brushes and bearings and solenoid parts.. PROVIDING the hard parts of your starter are OK. but its not hard to do, and its REALLY not hard to take the thing apart and see whats wrong with it... almost as easy to put it back together to return for a core exchange if you decide not to.. but if you never take one apart you'll never even know whats involved. just my two cents, i dunno how much a justy starter might run, but i cant imagine they sell a great deal of them... and that usually means $$$$.

yah but i was talking about WE, the common worms..... just another lament on the relatively few choices for cylinder heads. i know, i know, we are tlaking about a compact imported sedan, not exactly something they were making lots of motors on.. besides, if there were 2335656434 different possible block/crank/piston/head combinations, itd be a honda, not a subaru. (IE, not the wonderfully simple machine it is in this universe)

post on that once youve run with it for a while, im considering doing basically the same thing.. ive got a spare fan shroud and a small cyclone fan. im thinking about trying to mold the fan into the shroud somehow. the fan is about 3 inches in diameter smaller than the shroud, and im trying to see if i can find a way to mount it to the shroud and fill in the gap.. im thinking about using some aluminum tape and some expanding foam or something. Ive gotta talk to my brother about what he used to "solidify" some busted motor mounts on his honda...

im taking a stab at this... but as i understand it, the second and fourth mains wind up being not in a harmonic balance and throwing things off.. its compensated for by having greater saddle area.

unless you have a flapper style MAF sensor. the SPFI NA uses a hotwire system, it heats up one of these tiny wires and detects the heat drop, and calculates the air flow based on that. a flapper style MAF has a gateway, attached to a pivot point. the pivot point is hooked up to a sensor that says how far the air is opening the gate. if you can look straight thru your MAF sensor without having to move a flap thingy inside it, then yah, its applicable to your car. the wires in question are the two small wires in the chamber off to the side of the main barrel.

yah, I'll say it too... the exhaust gas is used to spin the turbine, which shares an axle with the compressor impeller. the compressor takes colr air in from your air filter box, and compresses it. The mass of air flowing out of the turbo is at a higher temperature because every calorie of heat in every air molecule which got compressed, is present, and jammed in a much smaller space with more calories from other air molecules. In short, the heat from say, 10 liters of air at atmospheric pressure is all combined when that 10 liters has been pressed down into 5 liters by the turbocharger. the same amount of heat, in a denser mass, adds up to a higher temperature. Temperature is a function of heat. besides, with either a supercharger or a turbocharger, just slap an intercooler in there and dont worry about heat.

yah nice big fender flares like that on an RX would look SICK:eek:

uhm, if i recall correctly, your car didnt come from the factory with rear speakers. I may be wrong but as we got into the 90s subaru was pulling options out of the loyale and concentrating on the legacy and newer series more.. this car became the econobox, and ultimately got the boot... so they started cutting things out, and rear speakers went somewhere along the line. i would recommend running new speaker wire and installing a new stereo.. its the most thorough way to fix this problem. i know its not cheap, but at least you should have a normal sized stereo.. the older loyale/GLs had a slightly smaller than standard size, and we have to buy an install kit to put an aftermarket head unit in if we want to.

its what i call the magic wire syndrome. there should be a high current wire going from the positive battery cable into your fusible link block (right guys? not an ea81 owner here) you can try wiggling this wire a bit, and wiggle all your fusible links in the block. i get a total deadwire every once in a while from the same fusible link, but i think my problem is in my block. havent gotten around to fixing that one yet.