daeron

i hear you on the weather... i live in the everglades in south florida, and it rains here just about every afternoon in the summertime... although i suppose as of tomorrow thats over, technically.. not for us down here, not until mid december :cool: anyhow, just giving you tips on how to go through with everything. BTW, GD is probably right about that.. pure, plain, distilled water doesnt conduct electricity at all. however, unless its in a closed bottle marked "distilled water" its not ever that chemically pure :- ) it takes some sort of electrolyte dissolved in it to conduct electricity, but any free water is going to have electrolytes dissolved in it. thats the science of that situation. but for checking coil voltage with a multimeter, you COULD be standing barefoot i a puddle of seawater and you wouldnt hurt yourself, its only 12VDC. checking for SPARK in the hypothetical seawater puddle, is a different story. ouch.

ive only seen one carbed ea82, in a junkyard, so i may be talking out of my a$$.. but usually a carbureted vehicle has a choke lever (at least older ones) that you can use to choke the carb manually. choking is essentially blocking off airflow into your carburetor, (almost completely) and its something you have to do sometimes on a cold start to get things started properly.. its sorta like a lawnmower engine. nowadays theyve engineered them to just walk up to, squeeze the bulb three times and boom, you're off.. but you used to have to choke them to start them cold, then let the choke off once its running OK. now, whether or not your car has a choke lever is beyond me..... but GD is saying you need to choke the carb off as youre trying to start it cold, and then itll get enough fuel to kick it over and run properly. its just a cold weather starting procedure with carbureted vehicles, its one of the reasons new vehicles have all switched over to fuel injection. FI is much less sensitive to changes in atmospheric temperature, pressure, and composition (humidity/moisture among other things) than carburetors.

first, check the coil for spark. if you get no spark at the coil, check the voltage. if you get spark, then check for fuel. if you get spark, and fuel, and youve visually confirmed timing belts are both intact, then check your compression (although i doubt that would be your problem judging from your tale..) thats just the order of going thru things on a motor. good chance you'll figure something out in the coil, or something simple with fuel though. if youre a somewhat experienced amateur mechanic already, these cars are a breeze, and will train you in doing things you might think are utterly beyond your ability now :- )

no more than what i said up there sounded like i was scolding you :-p i certainly cant say that i wouldnt have done the same thing in your shoes.. ive yet to rebuild a cylinder head, myself.. so lots of things that are abstract about it might foul me when it comes to actual work.. and as i said, if i were in your shoes and hadnt had it drawn to my attention by delta, then i may have missed it too. at least you get the extra bonding time with the top end internals... take photos, these times are gone, too fast... suddenly one day youve overheated too bad and BAM, its new head time. did i just wax nostalgic on a cylinder head? maybe i need to eat or something. or some caffeine...

but why tho?? its 150 all motor hp, instant throttle!!!! VROOM!!!! can you imagine that in your what, 2500 pound soob?? i dunno what you drive, but it cant weigh much, and maybe even less than that. thems good numbers. but as GD posted, its a bit technical.....just, what an idea, huh????

just dont use nickels.. you dont want cheap metal in your engine

oompy... but if i put that in my gl-10 it would trash the unibody, too much vroom. what else would be needed to make the conversion, wiring and ecu out of...? sorry to be so lazy and threadjack, but its an idle pipe dream that just came up.. i hadnt bothered looking at that link yet, just filed it away for future search purposes if needed. thats a cheap motor.

well, the bright side is its all going to be clean, easy work because youre backing up a few steps, not disassembling a motor right off the street. and not to condescend, but they probably assumed that you understood you would need to shim a regrind.. sure, they should have also shipped you shims, but it need not have been specifically mentioned or spoken about during the transaction.

BUT it is certainly within your grasp to do, as a job. you would simply need to find someone to weld the small bracket needed. Drilling and tapping is a cinch, but anyone doing the weld could certainly do that, too, and if you can find someone to do this reasonably then i would say to go for it. The single piece driveshaft is (apparently) also an option, if its within the realm of budget.. if you cant find a friend to do the weld, it may be less expensive, too.. would there be any safety or reliability drawbacks in the one piece driveshaft? its a big job to retrofit something along these lines, and the realistic scope of that is what is causing the disclaimers regarding alternative transportation, and the possibility of a month long job.. its obviously going to decomission the car for some time, so you'll need to be able to cope with that, but if youre talking about the swap in the first place, then something tells me youve already accepted that.. you seem very attached to your car. i think you want the 4wd as much as a gift to him as anything else. If he really is that good a specimen, and that important to you, then swap it. maybe not tomorrow, but plan on it. its building your own car out of parts from fuji heavy industries, ltd. and its FUN.

are you saying that you have encountered situations where speed 2 fails, but lo speed stays functional? because it seems like thats impossible, from my understanding of it... that was the point of the post you quoted :-p otherwise, some of us still dont understand.

really? i know nothing about these switches, ive only recently started hearing that they are a problem.. ive been assuming my windows were slow, and all four different speeds, because of carbon buildup in the motors. fortunately, i havent tried to remedy THAT yet, as it would appear that would be a lark. i read a post from i think loyale2.7turbo that said something about replacing the power window relay under the passenger seat with a bosch one.. whats with this relay he was talking about? they arent relayed already?

i like this idea.. (the whole dual carby method) but has anyone ever given a thought to using sidedraft carbs?? i only ask because with my Zcar heritage, its what im most familiar with anyhow. I know it may seem sorta dumb to make everything flow that way when we have the flat engine, but im curious.

Man, thats not fair!! i want a button to turn the ac on and off like that... it just seems that with the system used in my car (and any other USDM ea82 ive seen in the junkyard, tho im not omniscient by any means) switches the AC on simply thru the vacuum switch. in other words, our fan knobs are just dumb four speed knobs, with no button. the levers select the vent to be running either AC system air or fresh air intake from outside. very nice feature if you ask me, the datsun all used to have them too and i was really glad to find even better vents in the soob when i sat down in it for the first time. otherwise, the recirculate switch is the same as on yours. its interesting that you get the option of turning the AC off but still run the ventilator system, and we do not. also, my AC seems to turn the AC off when i put it to floor or bilevel.. defrost and blow-in-your-face will run cold air, but anything with the floor involved, the AC stops cooling.. anyone have any idea why this would be?

see, weve got such an interesting cross section of global society living down here.. every stripe of american-american, along with all sorts of different types of foreigners. Lots of them like to try to put on airs by driving nicer older cars, but alot of them cant afford to really maintain them in the end... so half of the 80s (and now even early 90s) Volvos, Mercedes, Jaguars, BMWs, and Audis wind up in the boneyards... and the other half stay on the road, being supported by their dearly departed siblings. That, plus I think there may be a bit of a migration of these types of cars down here.. the difference between upper and servant class is getting starker every day down here (its hard to rent as a single young man(or woman), impossible without a roomate anymore. my thought is, that people are searching further afield, for a slightly older car of a type thats a notch or two higher on the ladder than they might have typically chosen.... putting on airs, so to speak, you dig? im kinda forming this idea because my dad is currently looking at buying a ten year old 325ic... so think what ye may. i just like studying differences between my area of the US, and others. its reassuring to know that we (as a nation) arent all as bland and facelessly the same as could be thought.

lol i live in south florida... lamborghinis arent even THAT rare down here... not that i see em in the boneyards or anything:eek:

cool, good tip on using the resistor prong as a probe.

some advice.. take a good look at it before you disassemble. you will probably see whatever line i was talking about.. and see how you have it lined up. chances are, you will see it misaligned before you take it apart and know with confidence youre putting it back together right. thats how these stories usually end up, anyhow. sooner or later :- ) hopefully sooner. if this is your first timing belt job, dont worry. worse mistakes have been made.

they are stiffer than typical compounds used for suspension bushings. this conducts more vibration and road feel through the suspension and into the car, and allows for more precise handling. there may be instances where replacing with poly bishings is cheaper than stock/oem bushings, i dont doubt.. but its not a "cheap alternative" so to speak, you know? i honestly couldnt tell you how much stock bushings might run, ive never looked into it

i just misjudged the overall width of this hump. besides, its an auto, it barely counts as a "car" i miss my stickshift....

what about using a thin layer of dielectric grease? or would that just give it a medium to make some nice mud?

im sorry, but in pulling out of a parking lot at a local grocery store, i had to drive over a hump of dirt/fill to get thru a small construction area.. it may or may not have been TECHNICALLY open to drive thru, but i had to use that parking lot exit to turn left onto the road in question and the barricades were clear, so i went for it. didnt think twice. BTW, this is strictly urban warrior machine here, 2wd 3at rustbucket... so this does NOT belong in offroading, its not a wheeler!!! and i live in west palm beach, so its not like i even see many dirt roads....still less, hills and ruts. anyhow, bumped the fronts over, suddenly they are on theyre way back down and im like OH NO NO!! a light *ssccrrrrape* along about a foot of the unibody, then FINALLY the rears started to lift... scared the bejeezus out of me, i thought i was i just had to post on it. Im not even an offroader, ive ridden around on the back of a buddys ATV once or twice, thats it.. ida been up sheets' creek. unless i could find a big board or two

+1 on the thread

cool. i was just wondering, i had never really heard the issue discussed before, and i thought that r12 was probly a better regrigerant.. of course its moot point. $7 vs $50 and rising, with only a finite amount left anywhere in the universe....

davalos::::: BIG TIP goto junkyard find late 80s BMW 3 series look on drivers strut tower under the hood, there should be a relay box with three different relay plugs in it. grab at least one of those plugs, i grabbed several to get the wires i needed. all you need is a four prong relay that fits that plug, look in the bimmer and in any other german/european car.. VWs and jags i think were the other big two, but it could be in any car... find one that has a rating on it, i used a 40 amp but im SURE it doesnt need THAT much. i pocketed it all. you can also find a soob, and go to the relays that are located at the back of the engine bay, in front of the passenger.. if you grab one of those little metal relay mounting tabs you should be able to use that on the plug from the bimmer. when you get the four prong relay, there will probly be a wiring diagram on it.. but the prongs will be numbered 30, 85, 86, and 87. power supply from battery goes to 30, line out to solenoid terminal goes to 87. the line from the switch, and the ground wire, go on either of the other two. terminal 30 is the only one that is pointed in a different direction from the others.. the bottom looks like this ._ | | .| the _ is terminal 30, the two | | side by side are 85 and 86, and the bottom | is 87. ignore the dots, they are there as placeholders to space the lines properly to remove the wires from the relay plugs, you need a skinny little flathead screwdriver (the little "precision" ones with the spinning wheel on the back work great, or an eyeclass screwdriver, that kind of tiny) take the little flathead, and slide it down into the plastic hole, behind the flat side of the spade terminal. this flattens a little retaining tab, and you can then pull the wire out the bottom. take that tab and flew it back out, then pop the wires you want back into place. I made sure i found two high gauge wires in the JY that i could splice onto with my high power wire. this is a GREAT source of relays for retrofitting, because there are three of these little plugs that slide onto a small, slide on covered bracket on the strut tower of the bimmer.. and you can put up to five relays into this little bracket thingy. or three relays and a small fuse block to power them all. guess what i was doing when i found out all this info about the relays?? relaying my start control circuit :-p BTW yer welcome, i just saved you 20 bux. :- ) at least, thats how much a relay kit cost me in my local stores....and who knows what kinda of relay?? im using hella or bosch, i got plenty of spares

arr, indeed, 'twere but a thought. even a mangy pirate wants to but his two bits in once in a while, yanno.