daeron

outboard. sorry that wasnt mentioned sooner. Im actually going to take it out tomorrow i think, and replace the stock unit. i just looked at the pulley alignment again and i dont like it as much as i did in the daylight.. i guess daylight tomorrow will tell.if/when i do so, i shall endeavor to get a good comparison on the diameters of the two units.. i know that when i actually went to fit it on my Z after getting the proper pulley, it fit.. into a stationary spot held in place (waaaay tight on the adjuster bar) by the radiator hose where it joined the outlet from the engine.. so it IS a bit bigger than our old hitachi units. but i dont know.. i need a camera bad, i cant really put enough words here to describe it all. I will see what i can do tomorrow for images.

the alt lines up great, spacing the pulley is tricky. i think i may have mine a little too far forward.. but as i said, its within a mm if thats the case. it didnt take much time at all, but i only did a jerry-rigged setup.. the maxima alternator harness had the two wire plug on one end, and the other end had a two male spade plug on it.. so i made two small jumper wires to come out of the soob T-plug, and then slip onto the terminal at the other end of the maxima wire.... i did that because i was about to go take it on my "test drive," a full night shift of delivering pizza. i figured whatever might happen with the alt, at least it was easy to restore to factory setup that way. so, all in all, it took me about 10 minutes longer than it would to swap with a stock unit. about five minutes making the jumper wires and installing the wire harness extension, if you will, and about five minutes very slowly drilling out the stock charging wire's lug to slip over the larger charging stud on the maxima alternator. okay, okay, i had to drill the hole slightly larger on the stock charging wire. I SHOULD have totally replaced it with a new wire. When the conversion is done right, I'll post it right. until then, i will let anyone know of catastrophic failure.

okay well, i figured out the pulley by finding an appropriate sized spacer. i had to add a washer to it, so its not really RIGHT right.. and i think the pulley may be 0.5-1mm too far forward... so i need to grind down the washer i had set behind my pulley. Also, i wound up having to put the lockwasher behind the pulley (between it and the alt body) to space it out a little more. I had another lockwasher to add on, but the nut did not thread all the way with the lockwashers on both sides of the pulley.. so i took the lockwasher out from uner the nut, and left the one behind the pulley, between pulley and spacer collar.. that sound kosher to you folks?? or would you go ahead and put the lockwasher back under the nut, too, and leave it maybe 1-1.5 threads unthreaded??? its working great, for the wiring i just made some little jumpers to go from stock T plug to alternator plug...for now. I will take some good photos and do a proper write up when its proved itself for a day or two, and i install it more ideally into my car. but it works, and it fits, and it charges!!!

okay folks, my uncles got some NOS soob stuff and im trying to see if this wiper motor and these rear shock are for my car or not. subaru part number on wiper motor is 6861 11050 and its a subaru/tokico shock, 621003044 and under the number it says J L 3 i have an 87 GL10 front wheeler.... i think the shocks look right, and the wiper motor has four wires with individual plugs instead of one unified plug like mine does, otherwise externally looks more or less identical. what might this NOS wiper motor fetch?? i could live with my wipers if this part might fetch a fair price unused....and i wouldnt want to screw anyone, but it IS a brand new in box, i just broke the staple seal on the plastic bag today part.......

yah, you could weld some steel in as horizontal cross members to make sure youre good and stiff.. one good cheap source of angle iron is discarded bedframes on the side of the road sure its cheap and ghetto as can be but you dont need ALOT of strength in your corssmembers if you do two good criss-crossed bars, at two points along the length of the car.. and it makes for good conversation. "Yah, I made my buggy out of a subaru and some bedframes.. pretty sweet...."

its a vital part that subaru put two of in the system. you can bypass it, i suppose, but its probably more difficult than finding a junkyard replacement or even maybe trying the parts store?? i dunno about the store, but if you can remove it from your pump, then you should be able to get one from another pump. not a majorly failure prone part, so no reason to think the junkyard one will only last you a short time..

bgd: i have an 87 GL-10 that is literally identical to your car. by GL, wikipedia meant the series as they came equipped with EA-82 engines.... if my understanding is correct anyhow. any model year subaru GL that came with an ea-82, i think, is identical to a loyale. the earlier GLs were like your old DL wagon. thats where your brain-itch came from in the wikipedia article. the GL they were talking about wasnt the vehicle you were thinking about.

well, i mean, its a simpler machine in many respects... so it is naturally going to be easier to work on. the headgaskets are yah, a no brainer on a lpg conversion... you ever read the book dune?? im collecting data about the LPG theory/conversion, functioning as the mentat.. this is a kettle that im going to start brewing for a year or two. fun times :- )

if the line was open and you spilled fluid from there as you were depressing the piston, thats to be expected. if nothing was open and you squirted fluid, the caliper is probably shot. also, if the surface of the rotors was pitted then i hope you at least had them turned.... its like ten or fifteen bucks usually at a machine shop (here at least) and its almost a must every other (if not every) disc brake job...and the rotor can only be resurfaced to a certain point, before it becomes too thin. the shims help stop the squeal. if you have everything else right and you get a squeal, order the brake hardware kit. its not expensive.

what makes the OHV engine more appealing for an LPG conversion? im slowly getting set on an LPG soob, and i was planning on running the EA82 i already have... but this is distant future for me right now. all theory ive been fascinated in since i was twelve and met a guy with an LPG chevy conversion van... dude was an old friend of frank sturgis i think his name was.. the watergate burglar. that guy was a trip, he was a body guy and he would make glow in the dark sculptures out of bondo.. and it wasnt dumb or tacky looking, either. nutso. anyhow, any info i can get on an LPG conversion is appreciated :- ) its an idea that i have wanted to try since LONG before i had my first car, and on every car ive had...

well, i figured that was probably the case.. but i DO have my vehicle spec listed up there on my info blurb... and that is probably the first post ive ever made where i assumed anyone knew anything about what "my" car was..... go figure:rolleyes:

AWESOME ive been trying to find out over on the Zcar board, where this is a known swap, all night...i was also looking for a GM alt that may have been a good fit, out of a 3.1 mpfi motor.. probably the exact vehicle you were talking about. i wonder if it might be the better swap?? wait.. american.. japanse, hitachi at that.. the carbs may suck but theyre electronic equipment is pretty spiffy stuff.. i dont think i want american iron in the car. SPECIALLY not the Z. everyone says "take it to an alternator shop NOT YOUR LOCAL PARTS WAREHOUSE and they can swap it for you.." i havent seen an alternator shop in my town in maybe ten years!! i havent let my fingers do the walking yet.. but... i cant believe that no one has found a pulley in the JY yet!! i guess im starting to see what you soobers mean by "datsun guys":rolleyes: some of us really know what we are doing, but these guys couldnt figger out that to convert the maxima plug to the t plug on the vehicle.. you go fat wire to fat wire, skinny wire to skinny wire.....maybe i just have the benefit of having thought to cut the wiring harness out of the donor car along with the alt.. and a spare harness at that, for the Zcar GOD i love this fabricatin, customizin, car buildin stuff!!!!

heh, the sad answer is mobile mechanics are rare, and the only one i can think of offhand is a semi mecahnic. not that that is relevant, as im in south florida, but still.. not a common thing. its alot easier to have you bring the car to them, than to have them bring the garage, with air compressor, tools, lift, etc to you.. so its not a common thing. maybe something will turn up, but we are all simply going about the discussion presuming that if anyone could help you like this, they would. you should go ahead and keep trying for the spark anyhow, what can it hurt? are you spending time that you could be working to earn money to fix the car? my point is we arent JUST encouraging you to fix it yourself, for the sake of it.. we are saying that we cannot, and do not know of anyone who can, come to your house and help you. we can give you advice on trying to fix it in the meantime. if your parents do not want you working on the car, i suppose thats another thing.. but everyone here has learned this stuff, and is very grateful for the knowledge. we are simply trying to pass the torch to someone else who, like us, needs to get his car fixed, and cant/isnt going to/doesnt want to pay someone else to do it. if you can get a mechanic to look at it, chances are theyll be able to tell you whats wrong in short order.. but then again, he may hand you a bill for a whole bunch of malarkey too. the garages down here are getting better for that.. and at least half the time that whole story comes from customers' lack of knowledge about truly needed repairs, or the degree to which "need" is stressed.... do we have any professional technicians of any sort out there who can support this?? the customer always thinks youre trying to gouge them for an unneeded part or repair, right??? anyhow tyler, if you get the chance, try the screwdriver thing to get spark out of the coil. if you get no spark, replace the coil. you established that it had power (at least as far as i could tell from your email) so it SHOULD be working. if you get no spark from the coil, you can try a new one. if you want to confirm that the ecu is functioning then you can plug in the white read memory mode connectors, and pull the plastic cover off from above the pedal assembly.. youve found the ECU already, on the side of it facing the rear of the car a little LED should start blinking with the key in the on position and the white connectors connected. in case you still need help finding the connectors in question, go here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64369 and in the second post in the thread there are pictures of the green and white connectors in question. I dont think it matters what its blinking right now... as long as it is blinking we know its alive. if the car has further problems we can try to come back to that later, if theres time. if you get the blinky light, then we assume the ECU is okay. I know what turbone said, but he also said he wasnt there for very long. if the coil gets power as it should, and you get no spark, and the ECU blinking light is telling you that it is functional, then you should try getting a replacement coil. This really is probably within your scope. please, if you have AOL or AIM, add my screen name to your buddy list and IM me next time you are online.. TarDaeron is the screen name. you IM me, i can call you on the fone, and we can talk about things. thats ALOT better for talking something like this out.

you could use the EA 81 to power a generator, or an air compressor... or even a pressure washer!! thats what OHV engines weer made for anyhow, right?? (can you tell ive got an ea-82?? t-belts and HGs be damned, i still like OHC more, just in abstract. its like MPFI vs SPFI. yah sure with the soob its ann exception... but MPFI is uaually the no brainer hands down better way.) edit whoa, now what about like, a motorbike or something/?!??? THAT might be rather interesting, especially with an ea81t... if they make airplanes and airboats etc out of em, why not??? its project time for daeron and uncle stampy......

oops, meant to be clearer on that. sometimes for the sake of brevity i skip things i shouldnt. sorry. well, you have to take the stub axle nut off to get the drums off, right? when i went to re tighten after the brake job (which was the BESTEST drum brake job ive ever done) i read my haynes book.. and the haynes book lists two different torque specs for the rear wheel bearings.. it lists a high number like 130 in the specs breakdown, next to the front spec.. but then in the procedure it tells you 35 ft-lbs... but i tightened the wheel nuts up HARD and the bearings gave out

he did that already cougar. i talked him thru it via email. he needs to confirm spark out of the coil.. and i think he may have confirmed it dead already.. but he may have been using a multimeter probe in the coil terminal to check for it.. i havent gotten that clear response yet. sorry to talk as if you couldnt hear us, tyler..

oh, the pulleys are off... but the datsun (and soob i presume) use two little convew plates bolted together, and then a spacer behind the fan blade that rides against the shaft end bushing... the maxima unit has a one piece pulley that includes the little spacer in it.. and the spacer is too wide to put the pulley assembly onto the nmaxima alt. its a hitachi, just internal fan. actually this one says Nissan on the back, but its a hitachi. i know hitachi compnents well enough by now to know that this one is definitely hitachi, regardless of the logoe molded into the back I'm just gonna ask the Zcar folks what kind of pulley to use. its been 2 years now since i regularly vistied my Zcar.com forum, and when i did a search there this afternoon on maxima alternator, i found that they have already discovered this.. but they hadnt as of a year or two ago..... so i still get to claim credit. i came up with this on my own.

no. well... yah. that time. I got interrupted. the funny thing was, as i was hitting the "post" button i thought to myself.. "I woner how often i do this and miss a post in this delay?" I had to get up and do something, i dont know what at this point. my landlord likes to grab my attention outta left field.. we have ALOT of projects around the house that need attending to...

you snuck that post in while i was typing mine :- )

down south?? its a simple matter of 3 parts to 2... (2x93)+(3x87)=447. 447/5=89.4. if there are three tanks, then theyve got diesel. ask the guy who owns your local independent gas station... the lackeys pushing buttons at the corner shell wouldnt know the 5 button from a hole in their head, but the owner operators will tell you how much they pay for gas if you know how to ask them. they will give you your documentation. how many times have you seen a fuel truck with three hoses on the ground? then again, maybe its genuinely different. certainly a non zero possibility. all i know is that at the port of palm beach, there are two biiiiiiig fuel tanks. ones for 87 octane, the other for 93. all the chain stations put their own proprietary detergents etc in after they get it from the port. this has been confirmed by three different station owners for me now, so i know its the truth here.

okay, here are some (re)manufacturer pictures of the unit. no digital camera here, but this is what i can do.... heres the datsun alternator... and heres our ea-82 unit all it should take is the pulley, and splicing the wiring in.. the large plug is on thing, but the charging wire and the ground wire really should be one single piece of wire, so it's best to do something like this thoroughly and avoid using crimp connections or even solder joints whenever possible (read: make your own wiring harness for it, its not THAT hard) once i get the pulley, i will update. sorry if i seem starved for attention, its just that this was a MAJOR part of my day today.. i started out with a goal of going junkyarding and finding a 90 amp or better alternator to fit into my Z and my soob.. the soob for now, the Z later, and I succeeded in finding one that no one else showed me. if im inordinately proud, bug off.

never heard of that... a buddy's dad once had to rebuild his engine because a gas station somehow screwed things up bad enough that diesel was in the regular tank... or coming out of the pump, or something. simply topping off with some good ol fashioned 93 octane oughta do ya... around here all the stations sell is 87. 89, and 93.. and they only have two tanks. the 89 is a blend of the two. 91 is achieved the same way.

did you ever check for spark coming out of the coil like you check for spark coming out of a spark plug? because you told me you had power to your coil, if you get no spark out of the coil, that is your problem, and its an easy cheap junkyard fix.

okay, not trying to be a jerk here. scroll all the way up to the top of your screen. the topmost line of text, on the right side, had four links. one of them is the USRM==Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 theres your guide. tells you everything. By the way, use the search function and look for the fsm.. someone has it posted on their website, i forget who.. i have it on my machine but no hosting anywhere. im lazy, sorry. yes, connecting both of them will clear the codes..start the engine, achieve operating temperature, cut the car off, connect both plugs, start the car. that will clear the codes.

mine had (factory?) timing belts go at 106, the alternator went at about 115, the water pump at 130. rear wheel bearings went out after i overtightened them after doing rear brakes (first time??) at 120K. just had the starter finish quitting.. it died at about 125K but i remanuHactured it into lasting me until 139958 miles.. so close to the 140K mark, alas. also just did tierod ends. radiator at about 135K. factory struts, front wheel bearings, fuel pump, steering pump, CV axles, ac compressor (i think) i know i redid front brakes but at 140K thats been done a coupla times im SURE.... each headlight bulb went out within 500 miles of each other (kinda cute, like an elderly couple...) around 125 i think.... My judgment: about 125K its a good idea to read the HTKYSA and do all that. theyve pretty well gots it sorted out there.. and some of the limits they set are a bit conservative just because parts a bit better in some ways (gaskets come to mind, and timing belts and seals...) now watch. my AC compressor, fuel pump, all four struts, the drive axles, front wheel bearings, and the steering pump will all die within a month on me. anyone know a good method of warding away gremlins once youve invited them in??? my lousiville slugger seems to be missing...