daeron

what does it mean when you get AC voltage out of your alt?

well, its a given that any time you do one axle you check the other... but i often go thru 3-4 sets of front brake pads between rear brakes... and the only time ive ever turned rear drums was once, when the car was already 25+ yrs old before i got it and put ~40K on it. rear brakes often wear much slower than fronts. If its a "new-to-you" car, or if the state of the brakes is a TOTAL unknown, then four at once can certainly be called for... but its a durned fool that does one wheel at a time

oh that thing got pitched years ago.... i THINK. however, i WILL mention it to him.. thanks for the info. for what its worth.. i own like, a $70 cobra el cheapo radar detector.. and i LOVE the thing. it has paid for itself SO many times over... and i was thinking about it the other day.. and i have NEVER gotten a speeding ticket with that thing. the only time i had ever been pulled for speeding i was speed-matched by a cop i didnt realize was a cop behind me but i DIDNT get a ticket. that thing gave me a 1 1/2 mile warning the other day, too.... when i WOULD have been more than enough for their speed trap. saved me almost 300 bucks that day:banana:

GD.. i dont think i have ever heard (read) that point made. thank you. how would one go about a visual inspection of the lifters in a potential set of JY cylinder heads? im thinking of getting a spare set of heads, and getting them prepped before i even go in to do my headgasket job.... so that would be a know-nothing head. Im sure once i got them back into the shop i could identify potential problems, but if i can see a difference between some OKs in the junkyard, and some i-dont-think-so's.....I would like to be able to look for that.

yah, do what he said. i was just taking a wild guess, and coming up with an idea, really.

well i mean, the heli coil would appear to be a totally valid repair.. judging from the lack of comments to the contrary, anyhow. its not hard, just not that cheap, either.. and you have to be precise. make sure you use oil on the drillbit and the tap, and like i said cover or fill any orifices that might get metal shavings in them with rags, or something better... you do NOT want aluminum shavings running around in your oil, combustion chamber, coolant passages, any of it!! but despite the warnings and alarm, its NOT difficult. just be careful.

roundeye: Thanks!!! I would have just used large sheetmetal screws.. what do i do where the screws go down into a channel in the trunk? i suppose drill a larger hole in the "channel" support so i can stick a socket thru there to hold the locknut? hmm, this may cost us TWICE as much in fasteners and paint and sealant than the trunklid cost me :-\ but we WANTS it, precious......

hey!!! im going to try a PM or two, but I'll try for the thread-jack, too... regarding the GM alternator conversion.. there is a similar conversion for the Datsun Zcar... and ive been wondering if A its the same GM alternator (havent done my datsun research lately) and B if the bloody stock alternators (datsun vs soob) are physically the same, as far as mounting. I am fairly cerI dont live near any of my datsuns/parts, and I only have my one subaru.. but could one of you guys out there who play with datsuns and soobs maybe check the alternators out, see if they might be swappable? because if thats the case I will start buying every XT6 alternator i can lay my hands on in the JYs..

the first thing i had to do to my soob was timing belts... and the first destruction i had to wreak on the thing was the timnig belt covers. :-\ not a good way to begin a relationship with a new car, but i coped. I have since removed them when i did my waterpump.. and "forgot" to put 'em back on. the fronts I mean, the back side i have never removed.. and it appears from general opinion that for o road use those help provide about 80% of the protection the full covers provide. ive seen lots of cars running without timing belt covers on, and I havent seen a problem occur yet. Although, in a sense, that might mean its overdue...

my uncle used to pronounce it "suh-BOO-Roo" (still does sometimes). that was a cool video, great for a laugh.. it took me about fifteen seconds to remember who tamiya was:rolleyes: but once i did the "fifteen minute" comment made sense.

The best way to go about things is first to check carefully for leaks. Then, get a big bottle of brake fluid, bleed first the master cylinder, and then bleed the wheels in the following order: LF RR RF LR. once you do that, and you still have poor pedal pressure, then think about your master cylinder. It would also be a good idea to use some brake cleaner and clean any areas where leaking might occur to make it obvious.. but dont bother with that until after you bleed everything. the order of the bleeding procedure is apparently fairly important... as it HAS made a difference in the past, and shall in the future. it may well improve pedal greatly; only to gradually have it disappear again. if this is the case i would strongly suspect a master cylinder. but, unless you find a leak elsewhere, thats probably the first thing to replace, so that aint sayin too much i guess... good luck.

would the engine try to start if you cranked it?? its a long shot, but you _may_ have had a timing belt or the tensioner go out. i had some weird engine problems from a sloppy crankshaft once, the woodruff key that keeps the timing belt sprocket locked into position on the nose of the crankshaft had worn out, causing weird variations in timing (advanced, retarded, advanced, retarded... slapping back and forth) so im thinking its possible at least that the driver side timing belt (that runs the oil pump, doesnt it? i cant remember its been over two years and i only did it once) may either be stretched, or the tensioner shot, or something.... like i said, it may be a long shot but its an idea. burning rubber, from the timing belt; metal on metal, from a tensioner bearing; and low oil pressure from the lack of pump motivation.

+1 on the info on the valentine 1.. i had heard alot about it, i cant recall the other one's name but i was just talking with someone about it the other day. ive always thought that was one of the two best on the market... but having heard that story, ive made my choice who i support my dad had an OOOLD escort that he got in the mid eighties.. that was probably the best radar detector i had seen until it finally died, beyond resurrection, in like '96 or so.. so to hear that the Val1 is made by the people who USED to be the brains at escort.. says alot to me :- ) thanks for the wee tale. it was a well written post too, you didnt make it a blatant plug by ANY means.. i had to reread it to catch the name of the detector again :- )

if it was difficult for him to remove, pat yourself on the back for a good decision. its not a headache worth it, if you arent already stubbornly set in your ways of fixing your own car. what im saying is, I had a time with one of the races. I wish I had just paid someone. somehow, though, that never seems to be an option for me.. other than something like an lignment, thats beyond my scope to do right.

a 200w stereo system does not necessarily draw (200/12=16.666) 17 amps.. hate to be the jerk to point out when you are quoting the total power draw of your entire system.., so i may be wrong, but if youre using speaker wattage to determine that number that means nothing to my understanding the XT6 alternator was like, 90 or 95 amp, and it was a relatively simple swap.. if you do upgrade the alternator you may also want to consider installing a new, larger gage wire (if needs be) in place of the stock connection between alternator and battery. the original wire WAS only built with the stock alternator output in mind (~40 amps was it?) and with 90 youd be doubling that, so may as well play it safe.

bump?

i cant advise you, beyond saying if you go the heli-coil route, be careful to be good and straight with your drilling and tapping, and stuff rags in the motor anywhere that aluminum shavings might fall down into it. sometimes its a good idea to state the obvious, just to be safe:lol:

okay, i have an 87 GL10 that came with a luggage rack on the trunk. The thing is currently in pieces because on one siderail the screws got stripped.. so between that and the rust, the trunk was leaking like a sieve. I got a new trunklid and now have it installed, but i want to retrofit the luggage rack onto the new trunklid. should I just get some nice, stainles steel sheetmetal screws, and an appropriate sized drillbit, and set to? is there any sort of sealant i should need? i dont think i have any sort of rubber to go putting on underneath the metal cornerpiece that attaches the lengthways member to the crossbar... thats been in the trunk since i got the car. I haven't started taking the components off the old trunklid yet, so I havent investigated how it is constructed in great details.. but if theres going to be anything to it beyond drilling and screwing, I would appreciate a warning.. should i use some sort of sealant at every screwhole just for good measure? I was leaning towards that in any case, but if its UNnecessary, I would like to know. thanks.

see, i live in florida... no hills. just bridges. plus, the soob is plenty quick enough.... if you give it enough throttle in the right spots thru the gears. yer soob can go 70, (so it can get a 35mph over ticket,) easy... do YOU, is the question. some of us frequently go up to ten, fifteen over when they know (i know) they shouldnt.... i mean, not ME.....honest... seriously, i know the ticket goes from like 112 to 212 at like 14 over here.. so i keep to 12 or so at most... but im doing THAT alot...... and there are roads that get no cops, and little traffic, that are safe enough to go 60 on, despite the 40-45 limit... sometimes, they just come in handy. if you dont understand it, that just means you dont need a radar detector, thats all. thats how you tell.

yah cast iron.. certainly alot more of a solid seat for the headbolts, and its not a common issue at all. we even heli-coil them when they get buggered, without thinking twice about it.

heh, i tried to picture it in my head, and i just put the outlet at right angles to the impeller housing like the outlet of a turbo.. its late, im on the east coast, too.. you know how late it is. i need to sleep now, thats what that tells me. and i DID say i needed to look long and hard at my engine tomorrow. once i do my headgasket, i will know this engine much more thoroughly.. tearing something apart and putting it back together is such a great way to see how it works.... and i guess its just the iron block then... and at least they put more bolts in the soob than i thought.

I smell a sticky... SERIOUSLY.. lets get something together. I have a headgasket problem right now, im bubbling into my coolant almost constantly, but its a slow loss of coolant.... and i bet cash money its the non disty side, now. as many headgaskets have blown on EA-82s, its gotta be as important as the ea-81 vin#/hydraulic lifter question. anyhow, i will look up what torque the turbo cars use, but i suspect it is very similar to the NA. there are ALOT of bolts on those motors, thats why i love datsuns so much.. theyre put together. my uncle (uncle buck, ) has been building high comp datsun OHC motors for YEARS and typically goes to about 55 ft lbs on his head bolts. My thoughts on the coolant... what about splitting the output pipe from the water pump... and fabbing a manifold to return the water from the outlet on the dist side over into the tstat housing? im sorta picturing "twice pipes" here.. i think the alternative would be to run external plumbing that simply eliminates the high point in going over the bellhousing... i HAVE to look at my motor tomorrow without the spare in. ive had some interesting ideas here.. alot may not come to fruition in the near future, but i LIKE the ideas and i have time to chew on them. that OFTEN bears fruit in the end. lets keep this talk up, i like it EDIT heh, i was jokin around.. i hear you on the talkative fool.. (trying to integrate that into my life now, have you noticed i have a tendency to jaw?) i just think better in the midst of discussion. more comes out of my head, and frequently more comes out of the minds im around, too...

lol 2yr old thread sorry its just always something funny about an old one coming up

he was making a theoretical statement i think, to illustrate a situation where intercooling _would_ lean the mix... As northwet pointed out the AFM has already metered the mass of air that the engine is breathing in. the boost and the space that air occupies on its way to the engine doesnt matter, its a matter of metering flow... every gram of air in your intake has been accounted for, already. the excess space would lead to lag, if anything. if your O2 sensor reads that you are running lean, it increases the amount of fuel. thats what it is there for.

yah o ringing is kind of a no-brainer but youre basically saying, that they are basically just a weak point that deserves thorough monitoring... and given a good positive seal, and strong, solid, unstretchable fastening, you should be OK.. you just need to be told sixteen ways to sunday that you arent low on coolant I am having some ideas.. my car has really bad rust, and the worst parts are around the trunk. the rear quarters are flapping around in the wind... being held together with paint. we are talking bad here.. and then theres the holes at the bottom corners of the rear glass. i can reach in them, thru the trunk, and wave thru the speaker holes. SO "fixing" any of this... is an outrageous project, and its gonna be jerry-rigged. now, add to that the desire that I have had since I was 13 to build a car that ran on LPG.. and add to THAT the fact that i just met LPGSuperChargedBrumby here on the board... and that i just learned its *essentially* just adding a venturi to my TB to make my ea-82 do it..... and i am already doing research on exactly how much beyond that it would take. obviously, I would be removing my gas tank.. and i would need a place for my new fuel tank. so the LPG conversion requires a re-engineering of the trunk/rear portion of the car anyhow. in a way, the repair the car needs justifies the LPG conversion, and vice versa. while im at it, im at LEAST looking into supercharging it (the idea occurred to me, i couldnt tell you why.. ) but none of this will be for AT LEAST a year. ive got a datsun to work on. SO anyhow, the soob gets to be the ho hum DD for now, and either get replaced once the datsun project is over... or continue to be my car. if i keep it, it needs to be fixed... but i cant imagine actually doing all that work on this vehicle. more likely ill keep my eyes peeled for another GL/loyale to buy and make one car out of the two.. i like having the sunroof tho, and thats not easy to find.. gee, sorry about that.. but my point is, im trying to evaluate what i really think _i_ can do with this engine, so im curious.