daeron

i hate to be so sarcastic, but way to live up to your username dont be so easily discouraged, its easy to fix. honest. im trying to convince you not to scrap your car, im thru with the sarcasm

hey thats FRIGGIN great!! i posted a thread about a week ago wanting turbo pics, because i have several i think soob turbos on a shelf, some brand new, and some components too.. and from the pics i got i thought i was wrong.. but from the spec numbers i got here i think im right!! thanks for the info, i may have some turbos for sale soon!! i havent bothered reading this thread until just now, either..good thing i did, huh?

im convinced i need headgaskets, because im bubbling alot without overheating or even losing much coolant. BUT, dont forget that with the coolant system, there are ALOT of potential "one thing led to another" scenarios that so not involve headgaskets.. has the engine overheated or approached redzone? or did you keep it cooler than that? because a clogged radiator can help cause alot of stuff to blow, too... headgaskets arent the ONLY culprit there. I dont think that a clog of that proportion would drastically inhibit flow, but it will certainly inhibit amount of head shed by the radiator. Me, i know ive blown two main radiator hoses, an unidentified seal with the water pump (never "found" a problem with it but it was leaking out of sight BAD) and now one heater hose, and ive already used the "replace the radiator" band-aid.. so I'm pretty sure. I just hope my heads are OK.

Thats what i thought!!! but im no pro, far from it (im a good amateur but i like to make the odd REAL dumb mistake, but its getting better) but when i was learning how to do it, once i figured out what i was supposed to do.. i didnt understand why i couldnt just set the cams up 180 apart first..... but i assumed that if i could just do that, then they would have told me that...

heh, i have 87 gl-10, NA spfi.. so i have the setup you now have, automatically.. if i understood you. but ive taken the radiator in and out a number of times.. it was the first thing i did to the car (step one of timing belt job to make it start) and my first thought was amazement at how little clearance it actually had going in and coming out, compared to how much space there was once it was assembled.

WOW i like the black snake. see, i would actually take the discovery of a three foot black snake in my car rather well. I had a terrifying encounter with a six foot black snake that crawled into my living room from a cabinet speaker it had curled up in.. the speaker sat on the patio as we were moving in for a day or two.. and then came into the living room. i was going to sleep that night on the couch, and suddenly that big black TV cable started moving (i was six..) but that black snake became our friend (100 yr old wood farmhouse) and like you said, no mice :- ) so i am kind of superstitious in a good way about black snakes.. but to hell with the spiders. kill em all. i know we would all die from a cloud of insects but i dont care. im sorry, im not afraid of very much, and i hate almost nothing... but spiders are on both lists, and theres nothing else in the world i can say that of. i scream like a little girl at them, no lie.

how much did the stuff you already got (enough to do both front doors, 90 bucks you said) weigh? and how much of that weight goes away as it cures, any idea? also, does this stuff act as heat insulation too? i would imagine it may be a bit expensive to use on the floors.. but it would CERTAINLY help eliminate road noise.. i mean, the doors already serve as a three layer baffle against road noise as it is, and the floor is just a single (albeit multi-ply) layer between you and the road... just a thought, because if its good insulation too.. keep unwanted heat/cold out. Maybe it just occurs to me because i live in south florida and have had too many cars without AC...

haynes is always better than chiltons, but the haynes book for the subaru 1600 and 1800 is probably the worst haynes manual ever written. I have lived my life swearing by haynes manuals, but i curse this one regularly.. it is quite simply not vehicle specific enough, thats all.. if you pay attention to the forum, eventually you will find someone post a link to a place where you can download a partial factory service manual for a 89 loyale.. thats applicable enough that it will fill a great number of the gaps the haynes leaves, and also provides ALOT of specification data on the model as a whole (literally applicable only to that model year, but most of its across the board the same.) the same website had a book called how to keep your subaru alive (HTKYSA) in pdf, which is also an excellent resource. between the haynes, the htkysa, and this site (both USRM and forum) if you know cars at all you will do A-OK with your soob. these subaru engineers were alot nicer to us end users than our datsun engineers were, let me tell you that right now. my first ememories are in my dads 72 240Z, and my family has owned at least 2 Zcars my entire life (big family, but i did say at least, current count is 5 running Zs, 4 running roadsters, and 4 roadster parts cars.. plus innumerable pats cars broken down into boxes and shelves :- ) the fuel injection is a piece of cake, it makes the l-jetronic on my 280 look complex (and it REALLY isnt, just rather involved) and its as easy to work on this motor as it is an old skool inline six Zcar.. which is saying ALOT. especially if you are used to working on a 300ZX.. that was always my biggest problem with the later Zcars. I like all that smuggling space under my hood.

make sure to get a good spark plug thread chaser too, and dont use a normal tap.. i dont know if the taper from a normal tap would be wise or not, but the spark plug gapper tool is easier to line up like the spark plugs anyhow..

holy cow i dont believe how far out they drilled those lugholes!!!! i have some 13 and 14 inch mags like that that are destined for a recycler i think, totally different bolt pattern BUT anyone interested, who could do the drilling, could (apparently) drill em without losing wheel integrity, i suppose.. i mean, those old mags were all just cast in batches, then drilled for lugs individually anyhow.. and if you got inventive you could even use the old holes to mount some sort of centercap :- ) anyhow, like i said i have some wheels like that that id give away to get rid of, if anyone wants em. i live in south florida, so shipping would be a factor, but hey, i figured id offer em up. theyre just sitting there anyhow.

LOL that sucks.. but alot of us have been there. its the one step in the timing belt procedure that isnt easy.. once you get beyond the cursed belt covers and their filthy, cursed knurled nuts that are retained in the filty, cursed rear cover with that filthy, cursed, constantly-breaking plastic... ive got my covers left off now (just to revive an old debate ) but i think im going to put them back on with the ziptie method... and if youve never heard of this, you might want to consider as they CAN be such a pain if you ever do have to take them off again.....

i dont know diddly about justys so i may be talkin out of my arse, but a fivespeed swap SHOULDNT be too difficult, even for a complete novice. these cars are practically made out of lego, and i mean that TOTALLY in a good way.

wait wait.. didnt he say... yah the glass is not the same? i wouldnt know, not a wagon owner so i dont pay attention to those little details on the few wagons i have seen in junkyards.. btw it stinks not having soobs in the boneyards near me. i think i may have said that once or twice, most of us in that situation have..

is this justy an ea82 engine, spfi i presume? because i had an odd hesitation for a looong time that i was almost immediately convinced was a very tiny problem with some sort of throttle potentiometer or something... knowing exactly nothing about the subaru FI, and not even thinking about it. i was convinced by the advice of my elders and family (i got the car from my ASE certified brother after all) that any problem i had come up with the car since i got it "solved" my little hsitation issue.. but only for a day or two at a time. it didnt take me long, once i began actually caring about the car ("Wow! Its already given me 15K miles!?!") to find this forum and learn all the ins and outs of my FI and realize that yes, there IS a potentiometer directly attached to the throttle control.. its called the TPS and i finally got around to changing it the other day. calibrating it was just a tad tricky, but easy as pie and the only hard part about the job was the removal of alternator and AC compressor assembly to get at it. my smoking gun that convinced me i was right was the fact that i seemed to usually have a hesitation issue at the same point in my pedal travel. I only go on my long winded oldtimer style story because you may have the same kind of issue, and i determined to fix mine after checking the ECU diagnostic mode and coming up with an ECU code for the TPS sensor or circuit.. the wires all checked out so i replaced the sensor, and bingo.. i have throttle response like i didnt think this car actually had. My first car was a geo storm, and my second was a 280Z. the geo was SLOW, the datsun was NOT, and this car is no greyhound.. but one feature of the geo i remember the most, wasnt that it was too slow really.. but the gas pedal wasnt an accelerator, it was a speed selector.. there was very little range of motion that ACTUALLY effected the behavior of the engine.. it was either coasting, maintaining, accelerating mildly, or going full bore. the datsun, different pedal location produced different acceleration, you know? you could vary how much accelerating you were doing.. the soob, when i got it, it seemed more like the geo (which had not problems at all btw, but no torque either) now that ive replaced it, the motor has truly come to life.. and i still need to resolve an O2 sensor code that i got when i got that TPS code, AND do headgaskets.. so im looking forward to seeing the ultimate fruits of my labor. anyways, good luck with your new hatchback.

i have an 87 gl-10 with a sunroof... and i like to go kayaking. my only means of transporting the kayak is my fourdoor soob.. so it usually gets a couple of those water noodle things slapped on the roof, and the kayak goes on top upside down. I have recently thought that i might be able to get just the two outside rails of the wagon luggage rack, and the two crossmembers, and mount them on my car to tie the kayak onto. I havent seen too many of these luggage racks in my junkyards, so i dont have a good concept of the length thereof.. but is it possible that the rails could be cut down to a shorter length? would the crossmember fit over the sunroof? would that hold the weight of a maybe, 50-100 pound kayak? or am i better off just sticking with the water noodle system? i dont have any problems per se, but its cumbersome to say the least.

cool, thanks for the info. i actually just saw my first carbed EA82 in the junkyard today, i couldnt open the door to tell the year though. it had a checkered grille tho, and i nabbed it. i suppose its not a TOTAL thread jack to ask if i might be able to buy the little plastic retainer clips that the older grille screwed into as opposed to my newer setup, with the still plastic two piece screw rivet things?? the mounting points are there inside the frame for either style of grille, but i dont have the clips, they broke trying to remove them :- /

did you look over the bearings at all when you had the hub apart? if you just replaced your pads and rotors (calipers too? i missed that) then your brakes have absolutely no excuse to make noise.. provided you installed your little shims correctly. You said you have done brakes before, and that was probably everyone here's first job done on a car.. so its something that once you do, you know how to do.. so all i say, is said ASSUMING that the pads and rotors went together properly. if its still grinding and crunching, is it doing that only when you brake? if so, then it might be a wheel bearing, or something incorrect in the front suspension setup. Go ahead and crack your HTKYSA and read up on the suspension, thats the most incredibly useful part of that book ive found so far for the late model SPFI loyale/GLs.... it gives a nice simple walk thru that even a burnedout hippie can understand on how to systematically check all the major components of your suspension/steering. it also describes exactly what youre doing. and NEVER forget that the most important brake tool of all is the State of Brake Zen. If, grasshopper, In changing the brakes, the mechanic gets flustered, then the mechanic must step back and re-achieve his (or her ;-) Chi, the inner balance and peace that lies within. in other words, when you run into issues (especially on brakes) it is ALWAYS a good time for a cigarette break/beer run/watch some TV/ do SOMETHING thats not banging your head against it (i usually just wander around the shop or my yard for a few moments to reachieve the Chi, but it departs frequently.) besides, you know that tomorrow, when you can post a little more data about the grinding and crunching, itll get figured out. in the meantime, is it present when moving, moving forwards, backwards?? only when braking? does turning the steering wheel effect it? its rather odd for new brakes to go together and "still crunch" unless you were hearing something other than the brakes crunch.... good luck, it cant be too bad.

thank you, i was too wrapped up to do a search and i couldnt hit the right search string last night while i was doing the skull sessions.... i DID search, but the forum has been behaving kweerly on my browser lately and it was lagging real bad last night... so my search was not slow, or fast, but half-fast. the partial FSM i have doesnt go into that much detail either. that PDF should get linked into the USRM. its just one page, right? there is NOTHING in there about the TPS and that was disheartening... but now i know its an easy calibrate some day up at the shop, where theres a fluke multimeter, AND feeler gauges!! BTW ive got it running OK now, my big nystery was "why isnt this DOING anything when i spin it around?" and the answer was that i didnt wait till operating temp achieved. Heh, i didnt ever expect to need it for tuning the fuel injection, but i had to get an old carburetor tool out and use it.. it was called my Ears, im not used to using them for fixing/calibrating FI.....

hey brother, born and raised.. and south florida isnt REALLY "the south" but it sure isnt part of any place else.. i spent ten years of my early childhood in rural NC too, so i know what its like. Im just sayin, sometimes i talk a little funny, start talkin bout rotatin muh tars, and changin muh oll, but i aint no jim-bawb!! and what the confederate battle flag means, to me, is a group of people who are clinging to an obsolete section of history as a badge of honor.. more than anything else. Plus, you gotta understand that there anret any real 'necks down here. they are all urban cowboy schmucks who drive their big pretty new King Ranch F-150s thru the mud every weekend drunk as skunks and since they live on an acre of land ("ranch" in florida) they think they really are the good ol boys. REAL rednecks wouldnt behave the way south florida rednecks do any day of the week... real rednecks'll stop when your on the side of the road and take you to go get gas. I had to wait for a cop to break the rules and let me ride in the back to the gas station. so anyhow gary, i didnt mean any offense. i was just throwing a disclaimer in there, because _I_ ... AINT.. no redneck.... i jes talk funny sometimes. EDIT oh, and btw.. i never have had the stones to actually put the bumper sticker on my car. last thing i wanna do is somehow wind up with a bumper sticker like that out at my buddy chris's house, or on a road trip up to atlanta (petit le mans, anyone?) and then a minor detour to say, stone mountain.... sure, its a remote scenario.. but in my mind, that bumper sticker would be a no go thru the state of georgia... and its hard to get out of florida without entering georgia :- /

why is the ignition etc different? i mean, is the 86 a carb'd model or something? i thought my post was correct, and then lookitthat, im made to look like a dummy :- ) what are the differences, or does my statement "as long as the intake and driveline are the same" stand? (IE not both SPFI vehicles...?)

heh, provided that the intake and driveline are the same, its my understanding that virtually everything will be either identical, or interchangeable... Some parts might need to stay grouped together if you go from one to another (different brand AC compressors might need to have the bracket and mounting hardware transferred along with, etc) but they are essentially the same car. apparently it was always known as the loyale outside the US.

oh god i skipped over the second post i had made and started whining in my first post. uhm, okay, full operating temp.. im also replacing tie rod ends so now im going out and driving around a little at a time checking alignment.. so im gradually seeing some issues... thanks for the heating up point, it was cool.. ill get er good and warm before i post again. EDIT (BTW, while im from the south, for the love of mike dont think im some sort of redneck from my use of a phrase like "get er good and hot.." im a proud born southerner, but thats just because i think weve got about the most beautiful spot in the world... not because im some backwards rebel flag wavin hillbilly...i actually have a bumper sticker that has the confederate battle flag on it, crossed out, and it says YOU LOST, GET OVER IT!!)

oh smeg, i went and posted on this thread whining that i hadnt gotten a response, and missed my other thread that HAD gotten a response.

bump I really need some help here, daylights fading and i had other things i had to get taken care of.. OK, no BIG problems, just that i assembled everything, (inadvertently forgot to plug in the TPS-duh) cranked it right up, it started right up.. threw a CEL immediately (duh, unhooked TPS) but it went away after i plugged it in. It doesnt seem to do anything. i mean, it ran just like it ran without it plugged in. i stopped the engine, and cranked it again.. started moving the thing thru its adjustment range.. and when i move from one extreme to the other, quickly, it kinda slows down a bit.. for a moment.. but the only tach reading i have gotten (working alone) was like 1100-1200 (i have the digidash so its teh sux0r as far as an ACTUAL reading.. i get it in increments of 125 rpm ) moving the bloody thing around should kill the engine, shouldnt it??? what am i missing here? where do i bolt it down?

okay so i got the tps, ive got it bolted into the car.. before i get the whole compressor and alternator assembly back together, im trying to get it "close" to positioned right.. and where it stands now, on my el cheapo multimeter (dads got my craftsman and cant find it, had to buy something..) i get 0.50 on the 20K range.... at zero throttle, from B to C... and i get straight continuity from B to A. i have it set to lose continuity (a> after a brief increase in resistance with just a *tiny* bit of throttle.. and at that point, the range of resistance on the B>C circuit is from about 0.5 to 4.5, on 20K ohms. thats right, right? im putting the car back together as is, but confirmation would be appreciated in case im cursing the thing for not starting in 30-60 minutes...... and i am leaving the screws loose so i can tweak the adjustment.. then tighten the screws after full assembly. (and i DO have an 8 inch phillips to do that.) did i miss anything? please read and respond, even if its no more than a "yah youre cool"