daeron

nice disclaimer. you spoke what you knew, and then made abundantly clear that it was all hearsay as far as you were concerned, but still SHOULD work. this forum rocks:headbang: question tho.. what rating is the rear diff on these cars? r160, 180, or 200??? because an r180 rear diff should be indestructible by one of thse ea82s.. probly even a stock ea82t... so is the issue in the transmission gearbox? sorry, with all the different "gearboxes" being referred to i wasnt too clear on what the weak part of the driveline is when in rear wheel instead of four or front wheel drive.... or why an LSD would make that issue more critical

I like that.... and id love to hear the tale. If you have time in the near future, a public post, or a private message about that would be appreciated i just mentioned earlier today on another thread an enmity i have for porsches.. so its interesting that the comment came up just now.

Awesome thread, great writeup on the procedure.. i wish i could be so succinct sometimes :- ) the thread was great just for the technical info about bearings, its good to spread that info around. I learned alot about how universal bearing numbers are this past winter, i had a job rebuilding power tools.... but it was new to me, and new to about 90% or more of the ppl out there...

i just liked the pic, and had no other way of posting it... so since i knew whose car it was anyhow, i figgered id toss out some "props to muh dawg" as it were..... the cowl induction is a nice idea too, but it would be even better if there were fans on the IC making sure that there was a point source of negative pressure right there to encourage all the positive pressure building up aerodynamically in front of the windshield to flow down there... but maybe my conception is flawed and no forced induction is necessary. cowl hood scoops like that other one shown are very common due to the fact that there is more air looking to go somewhere right there, in the front center of the joint between windshiled and hood, than anywhere else on the car. they typically see more air induction than "ram-air" scoops just because the flow pattern is smoother for it to get sucked into the engine bay there than into a scoop just stuck out in front, where the air goes every which way trying to move around the car..

clicky for a link to a post by Tosh with a picture of his wagon... I liked his scoop alot, and it was just made by altering the hood itself... thats honestly about my favorite so far. I liked the cleaner look without the actual scoop there... but i dont know how well it functions. Talk to him i guess, if you like the look, but thats my two bits, and you dont have to buy anything

yah i know... im just a datsun guy, who was raised my some porsche-hating datsun guys.... who actually loved aircooled volkswagens, but not the porsche people.. and it seems (to me) that audi is really just porsche in sheeps' clothing.... and im bitter about it. so finding the soob as the poor mans audi, as it were, fit perfectly well into me having the datsun 280Z as the poor mans porsche. i honestly have to say that audi and porsche rank among my least favorite car manufacturers... porsche mainly for the "mystique" that they have that i frankly dont get. Im the underdog fan anyhow, so hating porsche is just part of my psychological makeup in a sense, you know? and i thought the first quattro came in about 86? was that just the first quattro, not first audi AWD then?

LOL, high comp NA monster is always the best way to go.. turbos just sound so COOL is all. good luck with the swap man.

i took my thermostat out and that also greatly simplified filling the thing with coolant.. but, just a point. im NOT necessarily recommending that. i would also highly recommend re installing the electric fan if you havent already.. it is there as a supplement for the clutch fan for A when the AC is on and B when the radiator temperature exceeds a certain point. this is what the thermoswitch is for. My thermoswitch is bad, so i bypassed it with a jumper wire going from one side of the harness plug to the other. this fools the car into thinking the thermoswitch is always "on" it also means the fan is always on when the key is on accessories or on...so do what you want. I just say what i did to give you ideas. Good luck with the trip, just in case, dont forget to bring a good large rag.. GOD FORBID Worst case scenario, if you have to refill while hot, do it with the engine running and POUR SLOWLY so the cold water can heat up a bit before it gets into the block. adding cold water to a hot engine is a BIG no no but if you can do it right, and have no choice, its better than letting the engine run with no water at all.. and if the water level gets below the level of the pump, thats what you are doing, so... have a big heavy rag if you have to open the radiator cap under pressure.. that way the steam and water go onto/into the rag, and not your face. OBVIOUSLY this is all NOT what you ever want to do... but you say 18 hour drive.. i figured i would mention it for that "just in case" scenario. Incidentally, after i was born my mom shared a room with a woman who had just given birth to a son, whom she named Justin Case.

Amen. I got my GL-10 two years ago, when just after hurricane jeanne my landlord somehow caused a short in my datsun that wound up burning the fusible link block (read: open flames under hood) because of an oversized fusible link.. me brudder had the soob for a couple years, complete with "0-60 in five minutes" bumper sticker and awful rust holes that i fear will never be repaired.. so i determined to get the next 300,000 miles out of her while shes here. she needed timing belts, which was a simple job, and my brother gave her to me with the caveat that he gets half the cash if the car is ever sold. fair enough. no problems at all until i did rear drum brakes.. then the bearings died. Ive replaced front brakes, rear brakes and bearings, a radiator, a water pump, an alternator, i did a "backwoods rebuild" on my starter (it died the day i got my pizza job, after 3 months of no work..... so i couldnt replace it, i just clenaed and lubed it and it worked great! still sounds like a new starter.) when my first summer came, i recharged the AC and it was barely working.. finally replaced the little pulse sender on the front of the compressor, works great... so anyhow, i got her at 106K in october of 2004. the odo just rolled over 138K two days ago, and there was a 7 1/2 month period where i had no license/tag/insurance, so the car saw maybe ten miles in that time. (driving laundry down to my buddys house two blocks away.. and i actually got pulled and ticketed once doing it!! two blocks, in a NEIGHBORHOOD, with me being TOTALLY honest, sitting next to my basket of wet laundry..... and i got a ticket..) so ive had her registered for a total of 14 1/2 months.. and put 32,000 miles on her. thru TOD and starter problems, after burning an alternator in boca raton when i SWORE to my friend that my soob was just as reliable as her honda if not moreso, after seeing the heat guage rise when it shouldnt, and failing to see the AC cool when it should, this car started out as being a joke for me.. wheels until i could get the datsun to the shop. now, im contemplating a fivespeed swap, putting a stereo in, and reconditioning the air conditioning.... I would say that those jap engineers forty years ago who said to themselves "Hey, those VW boys have a couple of good ideas.. maybe we should go make some new friends?" had a pretty good idea... VW abandoned their cash cow decades ago and soob took it, refined it, and made themselves into without a doubt, the best japcar company there is these days. Most importantly, though, they allowed for the FANTASTIC group of people that used to be collectively known as "volkswagen guys" to transmute and survive in a new mechanical environment that we call "Soob." Of course, the gender connotations are disappearing rapidly, but i think my point still holds... Even Jesse James made a comment about "volkswagen guys" on monster garage once.. and it was true. when i found this site, within 24 hours that was my conclusion... all of the old volkswagen ppl, and the type of ppl that became volkswagen ppl, had simply taken a bath in propylene glycol and become soob folks! Oh yah, we got a good dose of 4wd and turbocharging too... and THATS the best part!! Soob stole the ferdinand porsche boxer idea.... and then put it in AWD vehicles... and then Audi shows up and steals THAT idea back from subaru into the VW camp, and look at Audi these days.... bloody pretentious krauts.. Someone needs to do something about those germans one of these days... (and if my german joke was in poor taste, im sorry, but i couldnt resist..)

excellent. many thanks.

right? thats hysterical... cole.. in case you missed it, clicky for a recent thread about a pseudo-baja made out of a loyale/GL wagon.

thanks for the added inspiration. I had that idea yesterday right after i found my better way of wording my propsition. Will do, just a simple pull drain plug and replace? or should i go get one of those "power purge" aamco jobs? should i search here about purging more than what drains out w/ gravity? and also, what about the diff oil? i ask because when i got the new tire on, i expected some "tire noise" to go away and i think it MAY be "gearbox noise" instead. not a major issue, but since you touched on it first.. thanks for all the help. BTW, im in the rain. I am ALWAYS careful.

heh.. the tie rod, while maybe not at fault, are definitely problematic. I figure, worst case scenario, im wrong, but the tie rod ends were aggravating my problem. maybe whatever ghost issue i cant track down killed the tie rod ends. I suppose something may be slightly out of whack with the control arm/leading arm setup, and im not seeing it.... but, im looking with that fact in mind, sooo.. who knows. Tie rods will be in tomorrow, and I shall go from there. the shake of the steering wheel is irregular, its a back and forth shimmy, but the pulses are nowhere NEAR equal in degree of motion, or sharpness of pull, you know what i mean? when the ball joint when on the datsun it was same pulse, side to side, evenly, at a given speed range.. this is erratic pulse, uneven, unpredictable, and at all speed ranges except <5mph. i have done all of my checks this evening with the wheels off... but i havent found a place for ANYTHING to budge. however, im not a big guy, and im not in good shape (daeron==weakling:lol: ) so, are the odds decent that if i put the wheel back on and get that leverage, i will be able to shake something that i couldnt shake with the wheel off?

well i got one tie rod end loose (after FINALLY finding my pickle-fork thingy) and when i pivot and rotate it through its socket, there are rough spots etc. My understanding is it should freely rotate and pivot and feel smooth as silk while its doing so.. plus the boots are torn a little, so these needs to be replaced anyhow.. what are the odds that hitting the curb pushed the tierod balljoints over their limit? the proverbial straw breaking the camels back? i know its more like a railroad tie than a straw, but like i said everything else seems fine... new ends are already on order at the local parts shop, and i know how to "semi-align" them by marking/measuring the distance, and i know i will need a front end alignment very soon now. I just hope this does fix my shimmy.

oh yah, the outer lip of the wheel was slightly bent, nothing else.. i did that inspection already. sorry i forgot to mention it. Also, the issue remained unresolved with another wheel on that shoulder.

allright, NOTHING else is loose or bent in the entire system as far as i could see, but those tie rod end boots are in poor shape (the ones over the tie rod end ball joint) and the entire tie rod freely rotates about 90 degrees in my hand... is this not bad?? this is the ONLY problem i find in the entire setup... ball joints check out, control arm and leading arm bushings check out, but when i rotate the wheel assembly through turning left to right, there is free play at the tie rod end.... thats not right is it? i mean, left to myself i would answer my question by saying, replace the tie rod ends, and im going to start doing so now.. but if im wrong about that, PLEASE someone tell me.

great, i was just majorly concerned with the way i could rotate the tie rod ends... i focused where i did because A i had no idea what might be more likely to be injured than something else and B it felt a lot like the bad balljoint on my 280Z did... car is up ion the air with both wheels off now, i'll check the leading arm and the control arm bushings, it just feels more substantial than a bushing, and nothing _seems_ bent. it was only 10-20mph at impact.. the tire got killed but it was on its way out anyhow. thats about what i figgered on the HTKYSA. he said the same thing about mach=pherson strut cartridge replacement

I have never heard it was possible to use an AC compressor for filling tires. Not trying to say it cannot be done.. I'm asking as much as anything else.. but you can go to walmart and buy a campbel hausfeld pump that plugs into your cigarette lighter that works just fine, with a nice guage on it, for ten bucks. and its ALOT lighter than the AC compressor. but you do need to find the proper brackets to keep your alternator on then.. The compressor is by far the heaviest part of the system, and if you are removing it all, that is almost the best place to start. except for needing the parts for the alternator tensioning. carnot, how hard was it to get to the evaporator coil? ive been thinking of removing mine to clean it out... i know this car has seen cigarettes most of its life (still does) with the AC on, so i know that things gotta be NASTY and it would make my AC oh so much nicer if it were cleaned.. i know it involves depressurizing the system (duh) but how hard was it to get to, and how hard do you think it would be to clean the coils on? PM me if you want, ive been meaning to ask these questions.. and i need someone who has taken it all apart to ask but i dont wanna threadjack..

moodybluesr, NICE PIC!!!!! autocrossing a car makes for such a pretty portrait of her, dont you think??? ive always been curious what one of these GL/Loyales would handle like set up for RWD only on an autocross course. but my 87 GL-10 at 2450 curb weight, makes for fun around corners. not much Oompah from the gas pedal, but lots of smiles from the steering wheel. oh yah, carmen.. 205/60r13s?!?!! yah, i would guess the car probably WOULD handle slightly better with that much tire under it.. in fact, that might even be TOO much unless you need it for power.. how wide is the tread on that? what size wheels do you have them on?

no flame needed. I only responded because he hadnt gotten any help yet. sorry tom, i was in the middle of some things and my brains were a bit scrambled. I was also talking about a system that i know nothing about on the soobs, just trying to fill in with what general car knowledge i have. besides, just to be fair to me, i DID open with "well since you havent gotten any answers from anyone who knows more than I, I'll go ahead and put in my two bits..." so if there was some vague language involved, sue me. like they said in the hitchiker's guide... "Zaphod's just this guy, you know??" good luck with the project, im interested how it turns out. incidentally, could you theoretically replace the relay with a rheostatic control of some sort on a vehicle without variable speed intermittents, and give it variable speed?

ah. I see. I wasn't clear enough in explaining my problem, and driving around tonight i figured a better way to put it. (btw it didnt rain tonight after all... but O well) my problem is, i hit the gas and begin to accelerate. because my tires need replacing, they slip with application of throttle.. so i have to back off, and shift into second at about 10MPH.... and continue to accelerate at a snails pace, or punch the gas, downshift, (perfectly normally) and spin my tires.... all i wanted to do was drop it in first gear from drive when i hit the red light, and use minimal throttle, but pop the lever up into second when i reach a reasonable speed. (15~20mph) then, same thing for third. thats it. If i keep the gas pedal far enough down to keep it in the gear i want it in, im giving it too much throttle.. if i avoid spinning the tires from too much throttle, the tranny shifts so early that it naturally has no oomph, and takes the full five minutes to reach sixty :- )

okay, i smacked a curb head on the other night at about 20 mph.. car straightened out while pulling across a wide divided highway earlier than i anticipated (from complete stop) and i couldnt react quick enough.. killed the tire, and something else has become apparent since then. I have nasty, irregular steering wheel shimmy and it has a tendency to "jump" slightly, once in a while.. but the problem seems intermittent, its either on or off.. but more on than off lately.. so in the middle of my shift tonight i jacked both sides of the car up and inspected the steering/suspension.. couldnt find any inordinate play in the wheels, but didnt have any leverage to check the ball joints properly.. the ball joint(s) and tie rod end(s) are my prime suspects. I have a copy of HTKYSA and have read up.. but my haynes seems more confusing than helpful. maybe now that ive read the HTKYSA, but whatever.. two questions. 1, i reached up and grabbed my tie rod ends, one at a time, and i could grasp them and rotate them along their axis what seemed to me to be an inordinate amount.. one side (the side i hit) was maybe, 1/8-1/6 of a turn, and the passengers side was more like 1/4-1/3 of a turn.... it seemed like the stud on the ball joint at the end may have been loose, could just be loose castle nuts on my tie rod ends... but i have had ball joint problems on another car and was able to diagnose and correct that easily enough, my primary question is, tie rod ends rotating that much, need to be replaced? or maybe just tightened? they only rotate relative to the wheel bearing housing, not relative to the steering rack end. and 2, does my 1987 GL-10 with non-pneumatic suspension hold ANY surprises for me, given that my only vehicle-specific breakdown of this job came from the HTKYSA? i mean, the book spelled it out well and i picked it up well.. IF the car doesnt have any surprises in store.. any experience with that? thanks folks. edit one final question.. funds are short right now. i know replacing one defective side, and leaving the other side alone if its "ok" is not a good idea.... but i mean, if it looks like i can get away with it for a little while, i can right? im not gonna hurt the new part by using it with an old part on the other side? it was just a thought after i looked at rockauto.com and my wallet at the same time..... what about junkyard tie rod ends??? stupid idea? i mean, i know if i have to remove the tie rod ends i need a re alignment... so obviously if i do one then the other thats an issue.. but im trying to get as much info on my first shot as possible here i guess.. thanks again.

northwet:thanks. my problem (because youre right, there is one) is tires, i need new ones, but... im trying to wait until i can buy new ones, and put them on a set of soobie mags my uncle has brannd new buried in his shop.. so i gotta dig them up, and im on Baldini Maypops until then..... OR i buy new tirees then pull them off my steel wheels in a few weeks, and pay to have them re mounted, and hope they dont get switch around in their direction, etc etc.... im pretty sure the trans is fine. gotta go tho, what makes you say that if the tires dont make sense for my "problem"?

if i give it any fuel at all off a light, especially if my tires are sitting on the stupid paint, or cross the big white line (as they ultimately will do) the tires break loose because they suck. the answer i need is new tires. im just trying to act around that for now, curious if it would hurt the tranny is all. and if i just idle off the line, then grandma goes flying past me..... and i drive pizzas. time is money. the more grandmas in front of me, the more cycles at more lights i wait at. its not like im some hotshot racing thru life.. but by driving 2-5mph faster and more importantly, ACCELERATING about 20% faster than the slowest common denominator down here, i typically save myself at LEAST two or three red lights along a typical drive. so thats minimum 3-5 minutes, plus the fuel and time wasted re accelerating... you know? im not trying to blow peoples doors off for its own sake, i just like to hit it while i still can, and win by reaction time what i cant win with HP. what im trying to say is i know it almost sounds like im driving irresponsibly, but im not. if my own awareness and statement to the contrary arent enough to convince you that im a good driver, then come down here and ride with me. sorry, i just felt a little guilt-trip over that

i think your right northwet... it runs until it builds up too much pressure, then shuts off.. but at static conditions its not "overpressurized" just overfilled... so it will turn on, for a little bit.