daeron

heh. dumb feeling here. whats the difference between driving lights and fog lights then? ive had a feeling for a LOONG time i needed to ask that question... i guess fog lights are probably more down-on-the-road, for, well, in the fog.. (fog only happens for the half hour of the AM that i scrupulously avoid down here in south florida.. and only occasionally at that..) and driving lights for off in the distance/periphery/filling any gaps? anyways, i think with four lamps going on for high beams, you might not need the driving lights.. however, the outer single function bulb, staying on with your (inner only) high beams, combined with some driving lights, might also produce a good spread.. low beams on road, high beams and driving lights on rest.. i just think six beams might be sufficient. i guess its a matter of whether you want the "driving lights" (whatever lights you buy, yet another variable) lighting the low beam region, and having your four high beams to light the rest, or the low beam on the low beam region of the road, and two high beams and two driving lights on the rest. i just imagine the low beams well aimed, and stayiing on with high beams well aimed with a centralized bias, then some wide angle driving lights aimed high and wide... i dont know, im just kind of going on for stimulation fof your own ideas. I'll shut my trap now

if you have the digidash, ive heard tell that you might have a faulty gauge reading as well.. you might want to look into that. harbor freight sells a little point and click laser guided infrared thermometer, my uncle has one.. handy for checking the radiator flow, too.. clicky for the harbor freight thermometers, 40 bux. nice tool to have around, and forty bucks for a chinamart one that might break, but with care and infrequent use (most of us) should last a while at least. the flexi-shaft one even comes with a case, so did my uncle's. just a thought, its something that comes in handy when building your car. (thats what i think of fixing my subaru as.. strange huh?)

is this an ea 81 or 82? i dont really know anything about the models older than mine (87) so im curious. i would assume its carbed either way, right? edit thanks

wow my dad had an 89 xt6 just like that, bought it brand new when i was eight.. jan of 89 it were.. black. that car replaced his 72 240Z that was my first memory, so it was sort of significant in itself. he got fired though, and about four years later the car got repo'd.. bad times. great car though. those XTs at mt rainier, were all three of the cars together as a group, or was one or more just coincidental? if a coincidence, thats a great photo op.. also, are those RX-7 rims on the red one? they look like the wheel from my dads convertible 89.. but those were factory supplied, BBS aftermarket rims, i think, so they might just be the same pattern. as for that big air pic.. speechless. that bill of sale is a handy article to have on hand, too :- ) print that out for purchases and/or sales of soobs.... im glad i watched that video again, too.. your startout speed in second was almot equal to first on my auto, and your shift into fourth was almost equal to my third.. just a hair off. ive looked at the charts comparing the gear ratios, but its nice to see the in-car difference.

yah, thanks on that.. thats something ive been shown in the past, but not enough to think to use.. one of those little differences between a good professional and a shadetree mecahnic.. shade being the operative term at times :- ) but hey, for a shadetree im fairly proud of myself. and i try to know when i dont know enough.. you know? anyhow thanks on that, itll stick out next time i need it.

ever take one apart? i have once or twice, but it was just for a wire or something simple... but who knows? take it apart and lube the bearing at least...clean everything up.. in theory, unless a short occurred any electrical device can cope with immersion, if allowed to dry out... but i mean, its an alternator.. no current==wtf, how could that happen like, its tied into the whatever.. maybe it works. i hear you, its at least a 50/50 shot. good luck, and just clean and pray :- ) i had a starter that was "bad" in mine, and i took it apart and cleaned the nasty filth from 120K on the armature and brushes, and greased up the bearings real good, and delicately massaged the barely intact brushes (the three, one was totally gone) back into free motion through their retainers, and when i put it together it sounded literally like a new starter in the car.. it worked great bench testing, but it didnt SOUND great until it was in the car.. ive changed about 5459468064 starters in cars, somehow. ive been called to peoples vehicles on the side of the road to assist with a starter swap. dont ask, i dont so i dont know the answer. these things happen. its why my buddy has a 45 gallon fuel tank under his truck toolbox with a fuel pump connected to a thirty foot hose, and stopcock. we get these calls. from friends, we cant take money.. beyond like, token... six pack, overpayment for fuel, whatever... but i mean.. you sank the alternator in water?!?? just for clarification..

tosh, i like your hood scoop... so to speak... but mike, the setup you were describing.. did you intend for the outer bulbs to function as low beams only, or as dual function, high/lows, with the inners as high beam only? so you have two low beams, and four high beams? or did i misinterpret, and you meant a standard two bulb setup with the addition of bumper height fog lights? because i was thinking about it myself the other day, and thought the outer dual function/inner high beam function would work well.. paired with some hang-down foglights from the bumper running on the road surface. that way you could have your low beam bulb adjusted to a good heaight for the low beam, and adjust the secondary high beam bulb (inner) to complement the function of the outer high beam.. then set the fog lights up to light the road surface (low beams) and you have complete illumination.. im picturing maybe adjust the inner high beams to a different direction or something to spread the light out.. then again, if you are off roading, maybe the hang-down idea might not be the greatest.. but pointing down at least. anyhow, i think thats the nice, simple way to keep everything nice and tidy, but still get it lit up. i dont know about putting big driving lights in front of the radiator either.. but i use my AC alot, i live in south florida... so thats me. whether you like my thoughts on the setup or not, my vote is the four light method, with a single pair of driver lights. wherever, roof rack, hood mount, hell, bolt 'em onto the mirrors. that would be original.

i would think any attempt to seal it would overheat it almost immediately... so that would be right out in my mind.. but how about some sort of shielding it from below??? i mean, its sheer speculation and i cant actually picture your engine bay.. ive never seen a lifted soob, not got much hands on experience with lifted vehicles in general, beyond big pickups (1 ton +) so i dont know if i am failing to visualize your situation... but if youre immersing the car in water up to the alternator, i think you may be SOL. at the very least, any solution will certainly be interesting, and it would be cool to see this thread take off... but i think some sort of glorified splash guard might be as much as could be done.

awesome find man, should make for a great build. sounds like you got some shiny :- )

perfect fit huh? great idea.

nice post, that was a thorough but concise explanation of your problem and the solution, as well as how you found it. you might want to edit the original subject to include brief model description, for benefit of people searching.. if nothing else it served as EXCELLENT inspiration to just take the carb apart and look at it, compared to schematic. if you get diagrams, you can figure a carburetor out. anyone here trying to fix their cars can probably do so, it was once considered the presumed skill level of the shadetree mechanic... but those were also two phantom problems that you pointed out, as potential examples for others having difficulties too. the fuel pump has been mentioned before, but you never know when a previous owner (or carb rebuild?) is gonna give you a gift like a steel ball in the vacuum advance...

THAT is a great idea. a simple halfway pull of the motor... could headgasket jobs be done this way?? i mean, it sure seems like it to me.. instead of pulling the motor entirely... just as a hypothetical.. your idea seems like one of those obvious ones that may have been missed by other minds than yours.. i sure never thought of it, nor have i heard it suggested, that i can recall.... In reality, I may be doing a five speed swap soon anyhow.. in which case, i will re seal the engine then, and just pull it out. im going to have it all unbolted anyhow, may as well take the opportunity to detail the engine bay. "opportunity." i just came up with six more things to do on that job. i cant find time for it already. good thinking. O well, it was a good idea on the motor "half removal"

the safe way is to walk into the parts store with the (distributor cap, PCV valve, radiator plug, insert part here) off of your car in your hand. alot of parts stores are getting alot more comprehensive with their computer systems, and i actually went in and picked out the correct disty rotor for my car via photographs on the stores computer terminal. obviously, we cant always do this.. i drove my car to the store, if it had been anything but a rotor it wouldnt have been _quite_ so easy.. but thats the foolproof way of avoiding walking into your garage with the wrong part from the store. forgive me if this is simply stating the obvious.. im depriving myself of sleep. its eight AM and im still awake?!? well i work nights, but still.. im leaving now. good luck, its always a game :- ) sorta like the lottery..

my fan was rigged, but i bypassed the thermoswitch with a straight wire through the thermoswitch plug.. so now its rigged in a tidier manner. my brother originally replaced the stock elec fan with an aftermarket, and then spliced the hot side onto the factory plug, and the ground went to the thermostat housing. i put a stock fan back in, and am using the stock plug.. but have a bad thermoswitch in the radiator, so i bypassed it. however, when i was playing with it.. plugged into the bad thermoswitch, the fan still failed to come on with the AC. i would like to trace this to a possible cause, but dont have a clue where to start... if any help comes up on the thread for my issue as well, 'twould be appreciated. anyhow, check that thermoswitch plug. it may be bypassed the way i did mine, which would mean your thermoswitch is probly bad, and could just be replaced and plugged back in, and it should function normally. the stock fan connector is a roundish, oval shaped plug with two wires on it.. and the thermoswitch varied. I have a T-type connector,(87 GL10) but the loyale i took my rad out of (92) had another roundish plug... but the switch in question in just above the drain valve for the radiator. look down there and see if its plugged in or not.. and if not, find a plug that looks like it fits there.

i cant say that its a bad thing to run coolant in a fuel line, but if it says not for fuel injected systems then it is NOT high pressure line. the parts store should have a complete stock of coolant hose.. also called (oddly enough) heater hose.. but if its low pressure then it was designed for carbed vehicles, and thats like 6-8 psi.. i dont know what the "max psi" of the hose would be, but thats a high fuel pressure for a carb, so it cant be much higher than that. if youre store doesnt have hose, find another store and dont go back to the other one. chances are though, the store was just out of line. did you talk to anyone at the store? just about any place around me carries about 30 different coils of hose, simply because its needed. push comes to shove, find a place online.. but i wouldnt rely on the vehicle long term without inspecting it regularly, at least.. until you put heater hose on it. i may be wrong, but i mean what i say.. i would inspect it frequently at least.

heh.. ive been having cooling issues.. etc... but i had an aftermarket elec fan on the car instead of the stock one. gift from my brother, the PO... so i got a stock fan, and it took me a little while before i swapped it on, because i came to the conclusion i should just bypass the thermoswitch in the rad with a jumper wire in the plug... so as to avoid having to hack the factory plug off the fan. today i was demonstrating some things on the engine to my landlord, a retired land sruveyor of 30 years, and a haolder of a BS in aeronautical engineering. when his kids (my friends) and i were growing up we called him the rocket scientist, because it was true, to an extent. and its literally true, he and i "engineered" a thirty foot long slingshot for giving bottle rockets a first stage launch before they ignited :- ) (we got some of those suckers over a mile high.. verified..) SO Fletcher starts looking at the fan blade while its off.. and then tells me to cut the key on, briefly.. then off... so later, after i went ahead and changed the fan out.. we are looking at it, and he says to me its spinning the wrong way. the fan blades were curved in all three dimensions, they looked like a shallow channel of plastic, that had been placed on a table and then bent slightly to one side.. so anyhow, i reversed the polarity, which of course reversed the direction of air flow.. but instead of scattering the air out almost radially (meaning not in line with the axle of the motor, but perpendicularly to that.. blowing towards the hood, and the fenders, and the ground, not towards the engine...) as it HAD been doing while on the car, sucking air over the radiator.. it blew a much higher volume of air (eyeball instrumentation) straight out. SO, my brother got a fan that belongs on the front of a radiator, and just "reversed it" via polarity switch... but the air flow was DRASTICALLY if not reduced, altered to say the least... any thoughts?? the "radial" air flow pattern i described would naturally be more scattered, and seem like less airflow than if it was all concentrated in my face.. so was the eyeball instrumentation most likely inaccurate, or what? Oh, my landlord, when i realized this in actuality.. he just smiled at me and said "you know, spending five years, in college.. it does some good things..." anyhow, stock fan back on == good thing i think. maybe this fan would have worked better if i could flip the blade, or put it on the front... but i think the stock fan may have a higher output, and DEFINITELY draws that output across a much larger footprint on the radiator than this one.

yarrr, and a pirate at that....

okay i figured out the diagnostics.. i plugged the green plug in, turned the motor on, and revved above 2,000 for forty seconds to turn on my check engine light, and it threw out 31, 32, 33, 51, and 61.. 31 Throttle Sensor or Circuit 32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit 33 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit 51 Neutral Switch Continuously in the On Position 61 Parking Switch or Circuit so those last three... uhm.. the car was in park, still, in my parking lot.. are these last three error codes legitimate troubles, or can i ignore them?? beyond that, i see my TPS is indicated.. as i thought might be the case.. and my o2 sensor! those are fairly cheap arent they? anyways that ones a no0brainer, new o2 sensor, no big deal.. but the speed and transmission sensors, do i need to be concerned about them? i know ive posted alot of stuff that ive worked my own way around, but now ive got the codes and im unsure what they really mean, when you get down to the grits of the situation..... as i said in my oroiginal post, i suspected the TPS in the first place, thats why im checking my codes with no CEL issues.. and i almost had one in my hands the other day in the junkyard.. there was a car without alternator or compressor already, so i went to grab it.. but one of the screw head stripped out, and i wasnt well supplied with tools to choose from :- ( so to sum up the whole bloody thread to this point, if you havent read it yet, all i need to know is, with the ECU throwing the above codes in diagnostic mode, do i need to worry about the vehicle speed, and park/neutral switch sensors?

allright, i had NO check engine light on.. i have seen it before, when i plugged all those connectors in to give it a test drive :- ) it didnt run any better, that was before i discovered the USMB needless to say. actually, it was why i discovered the USMB.... and also the other day, i forgot to plug the CTS back in before i started the car. Occasionally, when making sharp, hard Uturns, i see a red light in that area come on, but i had thought it was brake fluid... couldnt tell, im in the middle of a uturn at speed, i cant look at the red flash that comes on for half a second in my peripheral vision. you dont think that could be a momentary CEL?? my codes were 11, 13, and 21. 21 is the thermosensor, makes sense, i saw a CEL until i plugged it back in and it hasnt been cleared... but the other two seem to point towards CAS... the USRM entry lists 1987 fuel injected models.. but doesnt specify SPFI, the 88 and later says SPFI, so im not sure which to go by, but 87 says 11=Ignition Pulse/Crank Angle Sensor and 88 says 11=Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit.. both agree on 13, Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit.. yikes, thats a new one on me... but like i said, i have no CEL historically.. so im gonna try clearing these codes. havent checked diagnostic mode yet... but i dont know if those codes on the USRM pertain to that.... but im gonna go try diagnostic mode, and see what blinks up. could i be wrong about my red light on my u-turns, could that be causing an erroneous CAS issue that would be stored in my ECU?? i ask because it happened like, three days ago, and its happened once or twice since ive had the car.... so if it COULD cause it, it would naturally still be in the memory.... the FSM says 11=no reference pulse, and 13 = no position pulse.. how could it work if it was really a problem?

well golly gee, gilligan, it only took you two minutes after posting to go outside and find the LED light.... I are dumb:banana: :banana: did subaru ever make one of those short school buses? the other questions still stand though well further update, having found the LED i tried the single conductor white plug under the hood (the pinky WAS the door chime) and i think its giving me information im getting pen and paper now. i KNEW i shouldnt have posted.... but i didnt think the rain was gonna let up :- ) edit i literally went outside as soon as i had made my first post, found the LED, and came back and typed up my gilligan comment.. THEN went to check the rest out before i posted a second time, because i had already learned my lesson. so if i plug the green one in and turn the key to on, the diagnostics mode is entered, and i can check any codes from that.. cool thanks for the help. i would have still been barking at it backwards, so to speak.. because i had assumed the opposite.

allright, i have a 2wd, 87 GL10, ea-82, spfi, automatic trans. I am having an issue that i suspect is either the MAF or the TP sensor.. but before i tear into a bunch of legwork, i wanted to check the diagnostics. EDIT the first three posts i made could be skipped, issue figured out to that point. scroll down to my next bold question for where I am at now please. thank you, i thought i would save you some time in reading obsolete material. ive read the USRM, i know there are two connectors that pertain to checking codes, and i know the process fairly well, ive read it in the partial 89 FSM a couple times through, it makes sense.. except, of course, for the fact that i cannot locate the connectors on my car. I was searching, with the covers off below the wheel, i can see the ECU.. but the only unplugged wires down there are one single wire with a red or pink plug (its pink but it may have been red at one point.. old, yanno?) and there is one single side of like a 12-18 pin connector.. i was trying to find what that went to (theres only one plug, nothing for it to connect to...) and came in here to do a search... and it started raining. so i figured id go ahead and post, since im kind of at a stand still anyhow. I wanted to get pics, hopefully i can get a cam soon and do so.. is that pink plug anything? it might be the door chime, i remember finding that in the past changing a turn signal flasher.. my dear brother had already unplugged it. good thing Anyhow, those are the only unplugged connectors under the dash i could see. In the engine bay, there are two unplugged connectors... right in front of the wiper motor, right?? one of them is the green connector used to set the timing.. is this also the read memory connector?? and there is one, white, single-wire connector there too.. the two wires going to either side of the white plug, and the four for the green plug, all branch out of the main wiring harness at the same point and are of about the same length.. is that single white plug the test mode connector? i tried the green connector hypothesis, plugged it in, and turned the key to on.. looked around, and couldnt see a flashing light. im looking at the large black box, i cant recall the markings on it and its raining, but it had a huge battery of yellow plugs on the drivers side, and i couldnt find a blinky light. That, however, could just have been from poor angles.. the light is located on the passenger's side of the box? like, set in to it like a power led in a car amplifier? if it is located in the passenger's side face of the box that is the ECU, i can find it. literal confirmation of that would be appreciated. maybe im bonkers, i just stopped writing the post to re-check that 89 fsm, and it didnt say where the connectors are, or what kind/how many wires each had. the USRM only revealed that they vary in location, and i havent bothered to check my haynes manual. I will find that and make sure its no help after i post, and i will try to get some fotos to illustrate my questions. but to sum up 1. what is the large harness without a mate under my dash, any thoughts? 2. i have a one wire pink or red connector under the dash, a single wire white plug and the two wire green plug for the timing under the hood. which of these plugs, if any of them, are my read memory and test mode plugs? and 3. where on the ecu is the LED located? the FSM showed it on the face of the box that points towards the driver.. and im going to go see if i can locate it now, if its stopped raining. thanks, i know its been covered, but as far as i can tell my specific questions are varies-by-model-year, and a precursory search didnt return anything that was anywhere near enough of a match to my model...and my machine is running lagged out right now, so an extended search isnt really something i have time for right now. i appreciate the feedback. -shawn

bump? anyone? i havent found any way of searching thru the photo albums that would be anything even REMOTELY resembling worth the time.. it seems to take forever just aimlessly wandering to find a pic of something specific. was the luggage rack predominantly on GL-10 sedans? i found an ad for a loyale with a luggage rack but its such a poor pic that its almost more of a teast than trying to hold all three pieces together and look at it... and needless to say there are like three other soobs in my county, so no chance of seeing one with a luggage rack.. although i did see TWO on the road today!! blew my mind, i havent even seen one other one on the road (read, not in JY) in about two or three months...

i dont know when the thermoswitch turns the fan on, but i know i was testing two different units.. one i never confirmed a failure on because i "failed" both originally.. and it took a full rolling boil of hot water to turn the "good" switch on, so it wants at least 200+ degrees F. I have a digidash so my gauge isnt anything like yours anyhow, but i am unaware of any problem with simply ignoring the thermoswitch. AGAIN, anyone who wants to chime in with a problem with the idea of hardwiring past the thermoswitch, PLEASE feel free as i am ABOUT to do this but have not yet... the fan has been hardwired on anyhow because my brother never checked the thermoswitch, and hes the mechanic.

four way was the big one i forgot. t-bar and four way were the two terms my friend used.. and come to think of it, theyre both a little... lets just say, able to be taken out of context. t-bar?? four-way??

wvo == ?? im assuming homemade "biodiesel" fuel.... but i dont think im familiar with the term. havent done alot of research, beyond knowing its a possibility. ive often considered a biodiesel Datsun 240Z.. ou could lighten the thing up to about 2400 pounds, and they made maximas (same I6 block) with diesel engines... i mean, the datsun inline six is practically a mercedes motor.. nissan sent their engineers to germany in the sixties and they came back and took the OHC notes from that, and their OHV tractor motors, and barely avoided a few patent infringement suits, and built their first OHC motors.. so THAT would be one nice lookin diesel car, if you ask me.. but thats as far as my fantasies have gotten. no real research..