daeron

BTW, sorry for the "i-told-you-already, didnt mean to sound like a jerk..... if you like PB B'Laster, try SeaFoam Deep Creep. it is AT LEAST as MUCH BETTER than PB as PB is better than WD-40. we are talking UberLube here!!!!!! penetrating to the BONE..... and it works WONDERS on old pliers/diagonal cutters etc.. you got a pliers with a tight rusty box, spray a little of this on, work em a little, add a dab of oil and a little more deep creep, work em a little and let em set overnight. you could then leave the pliers outdoors for six months, and pick them up and work them.. and STILL get some oil/deepcreep coming out of the box. GREAT stuff, its worth its weight in gold. I bypass PB anymore. there are VERY few things it works better than deepcreep on.

Well folks, i bought some new tie rod ends for my car. 87 GL10 NA auto 2wd. found some bargain ones, most stores in town wanted 4-50 bucks a pop.. the place down the road offered one brand for 18 apiece, so i jumped (since i had exactly 39 bucks with my change rolled up at the time) MISTAKE. . . . . the balljoint studs on the tierod ends were at least a mm wider in diameter at ALL points than stock, and they would not fit up into the spline properly, causing a wheel clearance issue. Not to mention the fact that i couldn't pin the castle nuts in. the store was great and swapped em out for real MOOGs, but beware!!! . . . . they use a moog part number, and its es2910 and es2911, the boxes i got were blue and have a logo on them that says XCP chassis parts, the guy at the store said pro chassis was the brandname. . . . . I am frequently captain cheapo, but this time i learned my lesson... doing this job for the third time now.. (it took me twice to get it together to function for the intervening week and a half, good times) . . . . so, beware, and hopefully you wont make the same mistake

good thread, ill HAVE to keep that in mind (a long time ago, when i was fourteen, and it was raining, i placed the jumper cables on my moms sabel station wagon (P.O.S. CITY!!!) from memory instead of wiping the crud off to read where they went...... OOPS.....still havent heard the end of that one...)

bump, i still dont get how i am supposed to start the car without it adjusted.. im asuming set it in the middle and hopefully vroom.. but idle adjust...??? there is nothing like that, its just the snesor... is that an XT thing?! this is a GL-10 NA im talking about... fuh, its hot in south florida. got a grill off a carbed ea82, never seen a carbed one before (fairly new to soobs, plus in sofla, they are just not around.. just, not.....) its the checkerboard style, i like it alot more than mine, so i hope i can fit it on easy enough.. it mounts differently from mine, but i think i have the tabs for the plastic screw retainers on my car :- ) and also a trunklid, now i can put my luggage rack back together!! YAY!!! but first and foremost, i got new tie rod ends.

you frequently need to cross reference a couple of ID plates on the vehicle.. but there is (almost?) always a GVWR or GAWR (gross vehicle/axle weight rating) stamped or printed onto the doorjamb VIN plate, and from that (its typically vehicle specific, my soob seems to be, id imagine yours too..) you have to find the max cargo/passenger load, sometimes located in the glovebox or wherever it tells you what size tires/pressure to run.... sometimes its right next to the GVWR.. but you subtract the total cargo load allowed from total GVWR (add the axles together) and boom, factory curb weight for your car. if you cant find the cargo max then ask on the thread here, someone probably knows.. i know its printed in my GL-10 owner manual, if you have that its in there. or go to a dump/recylce center.. we actually have a local dragstrip/street course race complex near me (moroso motorsports park, and the part brand came from the racetrack name not vice versa) and they have a scale for just that purpose.. no charge, but its a balance scale so you DO need to have half a brain cell still functioning....

is there an idle switch? i thought i had a three wire TPS, not a four... please correct me if im wrong, but if i have a three wire TPS, can i put a four wire on and ignore the other wire? im reading the FSM but it has like a single paragraph about the TPS and my haynes isnt much help either. ill be going to the junkyard this morning, to get another one (or two, likely a pocket item.. depends on how much work i wanna do..) and i guess i will understand what you mean about the adjuctment as i get into it.. but should i run the car without the alternator on it?? i mean, i was imagining having to remove the alt and AC comrpessor just to swap the thing.. the more info i can get on this job the better, i dont want to run into any speedbumps today. the last week has seen me putting in FAR too much time for other people, and simply ignoring my own problems.. and this is my only day off this week, so its now or never. or next week. so thanks for the info.. EDIT WOW i love my dad, he raised me well.. thats all i have to say.. because of that, i have an 8" phillips head screwdriver (right tool for right job, since day one) and i have discovered that yes, you CAN tighten and loosen those screws from waay back there, its a straight shot with the AC and alternator and all installed... and i discovered that yes, i have a four wire TPS.. dunno why i thought it was 3... but i understand the adjustment alot better now, having actually lookded at it with "adjustment" on my mind still the more info on this the better, my search (_somewhat_ half-fast but not entirely) turned up no help for me as a repair.. just swap questions... thanks again

ugh... i have a deep and abiding love for all creatures great and small, except for ants rats and spiders.. and ants and rats i have no problem with, if they arent causing an infestation issue.. but spiders creep me the hell out. sharks, pfft, i swim in the ocean. i see a shark i get out but no fear.. alligators, snakes, all of thats fine.. im not scared of anything, really.. except spiders... any time i see one in my way i kill it. i hate em. they have a tendency to bite me and whatever kind it may be, i react.. i dont have any other allergic type reactions that im aware of (beyond ant and mosquito bites, poison ivy, standard human "allergies") but s pider bite turns into a big welt at least, usually a two month bruise or something like that... bad things...

i told you about using the wheel trick in your brake thread :- )

the digital gauge cluster is too much headache to swap in, or out.. its nowhere NEAR a simple bolt-on, and almost definitely not worth it.. unfortunately you wont find much help, most of the ppl whove done it have been of the sort that was beyond help.. (i mean of course that they were ace technicians who could figure out most things by themselves.. not beyond help in any other sense :- )

you could put in whatever you wanted.. toms right about the spray adhesive, its a 3M product that i know works great.. and i believe its called like, srpay interior adehsive, or something like that.. any good brand of spray glue hould work. the older soobs had a kinda suzzy felt-like cardboard for the headliner, and the newer ones got vinyl covered. at least, my gl10 is fussy type stuff, and i cant believe its been replaced

bump, boldfaced question in last post never got answered. i got a CEL the other day too, oddly enough. My TPS has been going from bad to worse and havent checked stored codes yet to see what turned it on the other day, but i will soon.. but the CAS codes i still dont understand...nor the vehicle spped, and transmission codes thrown in diagnostic mode. thanks for any further input.

well, subject says it all. my TPS is going and she threw a code the other day. havent checked it yet, and shall, but must replace TPS. will grab from junkyard, know how to test, but is there any sort of calibration involved? i know i have read threads where it was discussed, but dont know if it would need to be done if im taking a stock three wire out of one car and into an identical setup or not... probly a stupid question, but i want to know if the job is more than just disassembly/reassembly.. thanks

should be a more or less nuts and bolts job, if the rest of the system is OK.. brakes are alot easier the second time, even if you only did it part way the first. I went ahead and peeked thru my haynes book to refresh my memory.. just make sure you grease the pin the caliper slides on when you reassemble it... and you are going to have to removle the axle nut to take the rotor assembly off.. (thats what my haynes says at least, but see if you might be able to avoid.. it makes the job simpler if you can unbolt the rotor from the hub without removing the hub from the bearing/spindle pin) If you remove the hub, undo the cover, remove the cotter pin, put the wheels back on and lower the car to the ground.. then use a socket to break the axle nut loose, jack the car up and take the wheel off, and remove the axle nut (kinda like breaking lugnuts loose before jacking the car up) other than that, if you have already done a brake pad replacement yourself.. then you can do the rest. its just a little more to take off, and put back on. Good luck!

uhm, link failed?

rear wheel bearings were the first job i did on my car, and the previous post was right about one thing.. it can be difficult removing the old race (which is the ring that comes with the bearing to be pressed into the hub, the old one needs to go along with the old bearing.) However, with persistence i overcame my frustration and managed to get it done.. i did my bearings piecemeal (bad idea) but at no point spent over half a day working on them.. i discovered one bad bearing doing a rear brake job, and then gradually the other three went.. or were replaced. I was really broke at the time and 15 bucks a pop for the bearings was a bit much to float, heh.. good times.. but there are two on each wheel, remember, and so thats four bearings altogether. If you feel better doing the disassembly to take the housing to a shop to press the old races out and the new ones in, then do so.. and if the old races look really friggin fantastically wonderful.. then you MIGHT get away with leaving them in but it is SHAMEFULLY lazy and usually a bad idea. usually only an option if you have A resolved to NOT take the part to a shop and B cannot get the old race out, even though it looks so pristine.. or are in a stupid hurry and willing to do the job over again right later.. anyhow, it should NOT be beyond your scope as a job. just replace all of them at once to avoid a hassle later. and torque those puppies down, its something like 130 or 170 ft lbs spec, some people do more i think? but 130 is.. alot..

ach, i forgot about this thread.. hectic week. hmm... well to be honest that doesnt look quite right. I'll have to snap some pics and post them when i get a chance (dont have my own digi cam, so thats not as easy as it could be) I got back there after examining the turbochargers, looked deeper at the soob pile and found some seatbelt assemblies, what looked like a brand new hitachi carb, what looked like a wiper motor (brand new, must get some part numbers here) and my uncle said something about some distributors.. All NOS, as far as we could tell, as I recall. but i was standing astride a pile of parts that was obstructing access to most of it, so its something of a project to get to, heh.. not to mention the low priority of it. Thanks for the pics anyhow, now i have a good place to come back and look when i need it. If you see this thread bubble back up to the surface in the remote and unpredictable future, check it out.. it might be me saying "here come da parts."

Ive watched every thread about this like a hwak because mine has been failing, and i have yet to read about any replacement... but im no soobie scientist, and if there is an idea for an upgrade i would be interested as well... :- )

THAT is the funniest part, and overall one of the funniest things, i have heard in a LONG time.

great, that made wonderful sense... like i said, i knew just about enough to know you were talking just a hair over my head. I think youre right, but then again your post and statements are expanding my knowledge/thoughts/opinions in this matter, so my opinion might be a bit biased to be honest bgd, i had pegged you just about as you made yourself out to be in this thread... someone who knew a GREAT deal more than i probly ever will about the systems that integrate to form an automobile as a whole. The shadetree approach is to the car, as a unit, and the subsystems as such.. but the technician/engineers' approach is to the systems, and underlying theories as a whole first, and then how they relate to the car/aircraft in question. By that definition, I doubt i will ever graduate beyond "shadetree." I also have to agree with GD that it probably WOULD be a bit easier to understand some of your points face-to-face-to-car, than thru the posts, but a second read through, looking between the lines (and occasionally checking for subtle spelling errors that may have caused misunderstanding, no offense) almost always makes it easier to get tho. keyboards are an awkward medium, and i feel very often that statements I make on message boards, especially detailed or technical ones, are probably not well understood by alot of people who read them. I am still failing to grok the whole body rust to current connection... and thats a shame because it has nailed my car to a tree to dry.... i REALLY need to get pics of the rust on my car. when i do everyone will understand.

Amen to that!! Beyond that it is good that no one was injured, and its also great that theres no bad blood. man, thats gotta be one awful situation, on either side.. and at least the car wasnt hurt too bad.. Plus, you were already there to get the parts you would need!! I love the fact that two soobers meet when one gets into town, and go to the junkyard together.. "Hey, while I'm here, wanna walk the boneyard?" "Sure, can I drive?" "Yah, that'd be perfect!" "thanks, man!!"... like i said, crummy situation. good story to tell a year or two from now :- )

Okay, the short version is here, if you want to read more about my issue i discussed it in a thread here . Short version as follows.. I hit a curb at about 15-20 mph, essentially head on, and popped a tire, and pushed an old tie rod (OEM, 138K) over the edge. I bought the lowest priced and easiest available part (since it was cheap AND close and I only had about 50 bucks total.. and forty was an average price per piece versus 18 apiece at the place down the street) When I installed them, I stripped one of the castle nuts out trying to seat the balljoint stud properly. Once I got the stripped nut off, I grabbed a poor pair of calipers I have here (stamped out of sheetmetal but at LEAST accurate to ~0.2 mm or so.. if not 0.1) and checked the measurements.. three points, between the threads, at the narrowest part of the spline, and at the widest part of the spline. Ill try a little graph here.. old stud (mm) new stud (mm) (-)9 ________10 12__________13 14(+) ______ 15(+) so it was basically about a mm wider at all points. the diameter of the stud right at the joint between spline and bearing housing was the same as the original, but the thread didn't all come out and the body of the tierod end is positioned a little lower than it should be. This is causing a wheel clearance issue on one side, and is also preventing me from pinning the castle nut on one side (on the other it got replaced with a lugnut of the same thread as the stud.. all I had.) I get a rub on the inner rim when im braking, and turning left predominantly.. at some speed/steering combinations its omnipresent, others nonexistent, and it doesnt seem to occur at high speed.. but I havent verified that, I just lose track of the noises when they blur together (I hope that makes sense.) The contact point on the tie rod end is on the solid steel casting, not near the balljoint bottom plate. Should I just get some locknuts for the studs, and take my dremel and ground out the requisite clearance on the tierod end? It shouldn't take too much. I believe small wheel spacers would also alleviate the problem. I would like to try to avoid spending 60-80 bucks on new ones when i just spent 35 that I dont think I can recover, but I need to get the car properly aligned before i ruin my tires. it is OK right now but I put mileage on the vehicle... and it wont take long to be bad. I would like as many opinions as possible. _most_ questions should be answered in the thread linked above, but feel free to ask anyway. there are a total of about four or five threads exposed above the shoulder of the bearing housing, so a locknut should hold 40 ft lbs of torque OK.. but if I would be best off replacing the tie rod ends, I will see if I can get any understanding at the parts store. I used to work there, AND I used to take care of the store managers Chihuahua before that, so he knows and likes me... maybe Thanks for the feedback, I tried to keep this as short as possible while painting a full picture.

heh.. i dont know what kind of "goodies..." in the interests of brevity (something that ALWAYS eludes me, maybe because of my fondness for parentheticals....) i failed to mention that we sorta got hosed. there wasnt a whole lot of "goodies" of much of any sort, unless youre a corvair guy... but there were some things. what year 510 you got? we have some drivelines and motors, and some body panels and doors/hoods/trunklids.. but alot of datsun stuff in general. unfortuantely, an inventory is.. a bloody joke. FINDING anything you are looking for in this (currently) mess of parts is a joke. looking around hopelessly at the amount of work to be done to move ANY of it out of our possession is about the only thing that we do with ease.... BUT when i go i will keep that in mind. I should have known that, ive heard you talk about the 510 before. thanks on the pics, in advance. an EA 81 radiator part number would be handy too. I say ea81 because i saw it and i knew it was much larger than my rad on the GL10.. who knows they might be dual core ea82s :- )

http://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/content_pages/record.asp?recordid=53440 the "narrowest J-turn" "A J-Turn is defined as turning a car through 180 deg from reversing in a straight line to driving forwards in a straight line." are they talking about a 3 point turn? (5 point, 7 point, etc?) if so, did he actually do it in only three points??? or is the record that he turned the car around, in ANY number of directional switches, in that narrow a space? because THAT would be EASY... i want a world record :- )

hey they turbocharged those things too, and they werent that heavy!! my friend had an 83 240 turbo, and an 87 760 turbo.. both autos, and both MUCH quicker than i had previously thought. volvo is actually a darn fine car manufacturer.. as long as subaru-style longevity isnt a dealbreaker for you. i mean, 100K+, yah.. 200, 300, 400K?? no.