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daeron

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Everything posted by daeron

  1. okay.. this is an ea-82T you said. the partial FSM covers turbos as well, doesnt it? I have known datsun people who have sworn that they have walked up to cars that have sat in pastures and fields for 10+ years, and gone through and checked every component test listed in the Datsun FSM, (we are talking 280 Z and ZXes here..) and once he got them to pass all checks, cranked them right up. have you systematically checked each of the FI system components for correct functioning? i realize that sounds like a bear, but if you set to it as a single given project, read through each procedure twice before hand, do the skull work and get everything ready first, its NOT as hard or laborious as it might seem. i really have no technical advice to give you, since your in the Land of Turbocharger, whereas I have remained here in NAville, and thus am out of my league. BUT, it seems like that might be a good way to step back and reanalyze your problem.. and it could help shake something loose in the brain, too. try to confirm any readouts from stock gauges as well.. and if you could invest in a wideband o2 sensor stoichiometer setup, that might be a worthy cause to follow up on too. good luck.
  2. OK.. i just ran the ECU diagnostic test mode on my car and got O2 sensor code, as well as a TPS code, and I have read about people having problems with their TPS.. throttle position sensor. its a small potentiometer that is actuated by the throttle.. and if you know anything about potentiometers, you know they can get bad spots with age. its like an old stereo that has a crackling sound when you adjust the volume. I am _fairly_ certain that I have been having virtually the same issues as you are, but maybe not quite to your degree. see if you can locate the significant chunk of the 89 FSM around here and get the TPS testing procedure.. it is worth checking out. Like i said, if you know anything about potentiometers (pots theyre called for short) think about it.. if there is a pot on your throttle, and that tells the ECU what your foot is doing, and its a little crummy.. it would act just like youre saying. If the O2 sensor was bad, then it would aggravate that problem. if you check this out on my advice, please let me know the results. I only get time to work on my car when i make it happen, so i havent tested mine yet (OR replaced my O2 sensor. ) but an encouraging response from you might motivate me to get my good multimeter back from my dad and check my own. I tried grabbing one in a junkyard the other day (you have to remove the AC compressor and alternator to remove it) but the screwdriver i had was junk so i couldnt get the bottom screw loose. doh! another idea would be to get a length of tubing, stick one end in your ear and fish the other end around the engine bay listening for vacuum leaks. they make proper stehoscopes for this, which are better cuz you hear more.. but two equal length pieces of tubing tied together at the end (so its coming from the same point) would work as well as you can hold the ends in your ears. good luck and happy soobing.
  3. Beefaru: i have been looking for someone to answer some sunroof questions for a little while.. i might want to get that from you, which would of course involve shipping it so id throw a bone at least... but i couldnt do TOO much so if i do then great but.. My cover seems to have come off its track. thats the ONLY problem with my sunroof right now, but it keeps it from working right most of the time because it jams everything up in there. I cant figure out how to get it back in its track.. and i dont know if it is "broken" or not. how do you tear that thing apart? i cant see any way to access it... thanks, i may even see about getting that other sunroof as a spare.
  4. it can be hard sometimes. thats one of the toughest parts in learning to be a gearhead is not stepping ahead of ourselves.. i was ready to have an aneurysm yesterday over a simple toe-in problem, because it was so out of whack it looked like my camber was off.. which is impossible (to adjust, anyhow.. not to break:LOL:) good luck, i hope it works better than your first nightmarish thoughts... In my experience, its (usually) the case...
  5. my family is a bunch of datsun guys, and my dad for YEARS has had the sawn off end of a driveshaft (painted fluorescent orange- it has escaped our sights in plain view FAR too many times when needed in the past) for just such a purpose. Of course, if you dont have that handy, a soda can works well too.. just mentioning an old trick for the benefit of any who might not have heard/thought of it
  6. Here, I went ahead and did the search because i wanted to re read all that info myself. Best thread Other Good Thread #1 Other Good Thread #2 that shows you the how to, the part number, and plenty of pics. Youve got the option of going to a junkyard and finding a Ford (mostly pickup trucks, but there was some talk about a crown vic i think? i dont recall, pickups are a plenty anyhow) and having 34666759375 of them to choose from instead of only one rusted out burned up shell of a soob for a change... and you could get it for 1030 bux, whatever your yard charges.. or go to napa and get it for what is again a debatable price, but far less than 138 for the real soob piece. the beauty of it is that it mounts into the stock bracket like a charm, you just need to make sure you plumb it well so the lines dont kink. Its best to get a hardline 90 degree elbow, apparently, then put your fuel line to the engine onto that. but its a simple transplant. using ford parts on a japcar?!!FrankenSoob!
  7. okay, update (if anyone cares) im obviously still alive and let me start by saying thanks again to everyone who helped me. When i get in a bind with a repair job and a deadline and things start going wrong, i go all to pieces. too easily sometimes. its the closest thing to understanding a "panic attack" that i think ive experienced. I miss the obvious sometimes. this time it wasnt so obvious, but my communication was poor; so kudos to those who waded thru it and helped me nonetheless. I got to work, in a well lit parking lot, after driving it 12 miles or so and thinking about it (fairly) calmly.. looked at it, the toe in was off at least as much as the "camber." I figured i had some time to kill and some tools (slow night, my GM was just being a royal jerk egging me to come in) so i picked it up and started tweaking... and immediately everything i had been told clicked in the way it had failed to thus far. it was really BGDs explanation of the tie rod function that i needed.. but my 32 yr old mechanic brother from whom i got the soob, wasnt returning my call.... friday night. i forgive him, hes gonna be the father of my parents' first grandchild in a few months. SO long story short, i tweaked, and got it MUCH better aligned. its still out of whack, but in a much less bad way. (its not "better" its "less bad") tomorrow in the daylight, i may go up to the shop and use a hydraulic jack (them are nice.. and safe, too..) to facilitate re adjusting it to get it even better.. but i think i can figure that out enough. The underlying problem is, the ball joint studs appear to be manufactured to a poor spec... theyre just a little too large to actually pull up far enough into the bearing housing. I have cross referenced the part number a total of five ways, using three different info sources, and confirmed that.. they look identical to the old ones, and the measurements are mighty close. between threads, old was 9 mm and new 11mm, at the top of the taper old was 12 mm and new 13, at the bottom of the taper old was 14 bottom 15, but i used crummy calipers and the last discrepancy was a *bit* less than a full mm. SO i want to eyeball align it as good as possible, and try to get some cash to go buy better ones from another store. fone calls tomorrow, figger everything out.. but in the meantime, there is a slight rub on the inside of one wheel against the outer edge (read: cast housing, not pressed in portion of socket) of the tie rod end.. maybe a better alignment will make this go away as well, but i dunno..
  8. yah raising boost as first step on new turbo car == NOT good idea. you need a good boost readout before you can safely tweak ANY of that.. the last thing you want to do is make your snail go , right? take care of it, please. I read that through and i sounded like a jerk, so Im sorry, bad first impression but i wanted to add volume to the response you were already getting was all, because you need to heed. the cars are fun, and great because they are so lightweight (go look at the vin plate on your door jamb. Add up the gross axle weight restrictions.. and then go to the glove box. on the glove box door, or maybe on the vin plate, or you might have to go find the number in the owners manual, but find the maximum cargo load. Subtract the cargo load from GVWR (total of the axles) and that is the exact curb weight of your car from factory. should be about 2450-2700 pounds in the end.) you can safely milk a good extra few horses out of the stock turbo motor without too much drastic work, but you gotta play it safe because these heads and head gaskets are the weakest link on the motor, and now that its 20 years old it probably is beginning to look for a good reason to blow anyhow.. so thats why blindly upping the boost is such a bad thing. you would want a good temperature gauge if you are trying to diagnose cooling issues, wouldnt you? BTW you might want to look at a fivespeed swap.. i am, and from what i hear its not difficult.. and if you find the gear ratios (sorry i dont have them handy) you end up seeing that its not too much exagerration to say that the 3speed auto is almost like driving in second, third, and fourth of the manual.. you get a bit more pickup than you REALLY would off the line in second (im sure it dogs taking off in 2nd, anyone with a fivespeed speak up?) but its not a bad analogy anyhow.. i mean, no four banger should be made to push a car to 36 mph in first gear at redline... no four banger deserves any three speed in my mind, especially not a three speed auto with a big old TC to spin around... enjoy the soob, and good luck, i wish i had your car instead of mine :- )
  9. DUH, sorry about that. thanks, im actually not very experienced OWNing a carbureted vehicle... ive worked on them plenty, and rebuilt lawnmower carbs, and am an antique outboard mechanic Extraordinaire, but i still havent grokked the carb _quite_ fully enough, obviously.. because here i was picturing myself building essentially a gigantic carb/plenum out of my old intake manifold, and then building the most crucial bit of it backwards...... I bet you could just rotate the TB assembly 180 degrees so that it opens the other way.. and puts the cold start port on the right side.. i dunno, im just playing with the idea. you, in the last 24 hours, have given me more hard data on a project idea that has REALLY intrigued me, than ive been able to uncover with my minimal research efforts. It seems like very time ive tried searching the internet for a real good how to, i get skunked. just people selling parts that dont tell me how to put em together. as for library.. whats that? Im gonna go read wikipedia on it right now. I appreciate the stimulation, this might even _actually_ happen someday, now.
  10. good one. Yah, that product sounds virtually identical to seafoam.. Lots of mechanic shops have their own line of engine products that contain something along the lines of seafoam for top end cleaning, as well as all the other little automotive chemical treatments, flushes, or additives that ARENT complete bogus junk (stop leak, stop slip trans additive, etc...) and sea foam seems to actually be a brand name that is slowly working a commercially available version of most of that stuff in our parts stores... the only seafoam product ive tried beyond the top end cleaner is the Deep Creep penetrating lubricant.. as for that stuff.. remember what it was like the first time someone handed you a can of PB B'Laster after a lifetime of liquid wrench, CRC, and WD-40??? it was like, this stuff actually WORKS!!!.. seafoam deep creep is as much better than PB, as PB is better than WD-40.. but it costs. like 7-8 bucks a can. TOTALLY worth it though, coming from a poor cheapskate.
  11. i havent done any mainline motor work on the soob yet, but if you "grew up in a polaris shop" and understand the two strokes in and out... this car SHOULDN't pose too much difficulty for you. the motor was extremely well designed, and its been discussed recently that while its not impossible to do the head gaskets with the motor in the car, it might be easy to avoid a full engine yank by unbolting the motor mounts and lacking the engine up.... yah it sounds obvious, but there was a recent thread where i believe it was NorthWet mentioned it.. and he is a seasoned Soober... and the general response was essentially, "gee. thats a great idea, that took NO mental exertion.. but WE ALL missed it!" so i figured id mention the idea to you so you caught it, its easy to miss any particular thread in the background noise while doing a search.. Good luck, try also doing a search for FSM or Factory Service manual... someone around here has a significant chunk of an 89 loyale FSM in PDF format, and it does contain the entire engine section, so the procedure is mapped out in that. the USRM (look at the top right corner of the screen) and a book called How To Keep Your Subaru Alive (HTKYSA) are also excellent resources. I hate to just be the one saying "do a search..." but i dont have any links handy, and i know the threads ive mentioned have been FAIRLY recent, so it shouldnt be too difficult. Let us know how it turns out, and have fun this semester (when you make it back:eek: )
  12. they are the right part, on the correct sides, respectively. i took em off one at a time. read my other post if you havent please, its too much to re type. i am coming to the conclusion that its the right part, manufactured to poor spec, and needs replacing with a RIGHT right part (well, plural..) as it stands, one wheel knocks slightly when the wheel attitude is right (or wrong) dependent on the steering, accel/braking, and direction of travel.. sometimes quiet, sometimes not, but its not TOO bad.... neither stud is pinned. one has a flat sided lugnut holding it on, the other has the (brass?) castle nut that came with it on it. there is no room on the thread to pin them. im gonna give her a talk before i pull out of my neighborhood onto the main highway and explain that theres no way i can fix her without her driving some pizzas around for the next day or two.. i will check it frequently, i have all necessary tools in the trunk....along with the old tie rods and some spare nuts, if needs be.... also will try to bring it to my brother's (the mechanic) shop tomorrow and see what he thinks, if he can squeeze me in. heh, if you want to tell me in big capital letters NO DAERON DONT DRIVE YOUR CAR YOU WILL DIE, please feel free to call me on my cell. (561) 255-8212. I cant take a collect call, but i swear, i WILL appreciate the warning. thanks for the feedback, thus far and continuing.. especially about dialing in the tie rods. i couldnt fathom the geometry abstractly enough to figure that one out. Will try that tmw too. i know that IF im off, i am adjusted a hair too far OUT and not the other way. as i said, im learning alot about steering and suspension finally.. because its breaking
  13. well see, they had to change the name after a couple years because the old ones never lost resale value... GL>loyale... that, or people were joking about GL meaning "Godawful Looking" and they decided to make the new name reflect the positive aspects of the car... It would look so much better with a nice air dam on the front! nothing too fancy, just give it a chin! the car looks like a slackjawed version of Goofy from the disney cartoons.... it just needs something to cure that overbite in my eyes, and it would REALLY look sharp.. but as it is stock, it looks like someone ripped the jawbone off... sorry to bash our cars in a thread designed to glorify them, but its only fair to point out the drawbacks too... edit BTW BeefaRu.. i HAVE to say that your two tone paint job, with the roof rack, on a wagon, makes the look of the car much MUCH more appropriate than my stock gl10 sedan missing half the luggage rack on the trunklid... obviously SOME of the cars that get the TLC they deserve will look alot nicer than my beatup rustbox. 2nd edit, after post below well live and learn. thanks GD, i hadnt come across that tidbit yet. now i will feel much more comfortable using the term loyale as a general purpose name for all things loyale. I had thought the opposite the case, that the name was an affectation in the US market later on to avoid confusion... and was just a more recent thing. that was just some idea i got somewhere though, i never put much money on it.
  14. HOLY GOD strike that.... i just went for another spin around the block, got back, wheels are tucked in at the top again... and im getting a grinding occasionally on one side from the tie rod end hitting the wheel. i cant drive this. i really dont think so. poor GM, he just might cry when he hears this.... but how do i get tie rod ends?? ESPECIALLY without any money!??!
  15. HAHAHAHAHA ok, now, i drove it around a couple blocks before my last post, so please forgive me.. i thought i had driven it enough that it wasnt an abnormality from being jacked up.... but im working at home, no proper jack/jackstands.. so i took two scissor jacks, one on either side, and blocked the engine crossmember with a cinderblock that had a piece of 2x10 on top of it. most of the weight was on the cinderblock, but both jacks were supporting too. I put the drivers wheel back on, because it had a new used tire on it... but the passengers side, i wanted to rotate the tire.. so i jacked both jacks up, pulled the cinderblock, replaced driver front tire, and then pulled that jack to the back ad pulled the rear passenger off, to swap with front passenger.. so two jacks on one side now.. then lowered it. even after driving, it didnt re adjust. i jacked each corner of the car up, and set it back down, and we were kosher on the camber. now i just have to cope with the fact that my new tie rod ends are rubbing the inner rim of the wheel which can only mean they arent seated deeply enough, which means i need to get different ones.... WTF should i do?? one side has a big lugnut from my datsun tightened down to hell because i buggered the castle nut on that side... and the other just has the castle nut on it, as far as i dared.. i tightened that side down with a datsun lugnut first, to avoid stripping the castle nut.. but it only went so far, and there is just NO putting the pin in. is this car not safe to drive, even to get up to work? is it safe enough to drive pizzas around for a couple nights so i can get some cash and get the proper tie rod ends?! is it as safe as those nuts hold, and i should check them as often as possible? nightly, hourly? im trying to skate the edge here, and i am totally clueless how far i can go. one thing i am very proud of about myself is i know when i dont know enough to continue.. thats why i ramble so much on this forum. thanks for indulging me GD, this steeering stuff is NOT my forte yet... i havent done enough work on it. obviously though.. im learning
  16. dats what i thought!!!!! ive driven it, thats when i noticed it! ill go drive around a little more. thanks for the reinforcement.
  17. OKAY... i just had some difficulty with tie rod ends, but i got them on.. I thought I came to the conclusion that it was a minimal difference between part maunfacturers, see my other thread....http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63126 but now with it all together, the camber is opposite what it should be.. the tops of the wheels are pointing inwards. is this a solid indication that ive gotten the wrong part? or did i do something wrong? i measured the location of the tie rods properly, from the top end of the thread down to the tie rod end (not the locknut) and its put back on there in the right place, but thats just for toe-in isnt it?? camber isnt supposed to be adjustable.... i cant imagine it was like this before i took off the tie rod ends, (ie the camber issue happened when i hit the curb, i was going like 15mph!) so something i did must have been wrong, or the part was wrong. if its the wrong part, then i guess thats simple enough.. cant drive the bloody car.... i drive pizzas, and my GM is screaming down my neck to get in the store tonight... when I am the only one who ever cleans his store worth diddly squat. i dont care how bad he wants me in, if this is caused by a wrong part, im not driving the car... or could i??? i dont know what to do, i NEED to get to work to make some money.....
  18. HELLS BELLS gd hit the nail on the head. XT tie rod end. edit OK wait a second.. my part numbers are es9210 and 9211.. and rockauto lists a moog part numer es 9210 and 9211 for the XT.. and also a beck arnley 1013982-3 for the same vehicle. i find B-A 1013982-3 for 87 GL10 MFI and for 88 GL10 TBI, but for 87 GL TBI i find B-A part number 1013488-9..... AND the moog 9210-1!!! so WTF?!??
  19. it seems like they should work, is the thing.. the size differene between the mating surface of the two studs is minimal, and i checked the diameter at the point on the old one where it was flush with the bottom of the mount, and it SHOULD go far enough in... as far in as i had it.. but my castle nut was too tall for me to pin it. the new castle nut is a thred or two longer than the old... but the old is a smaller bolt diameter! is it pointless to try to get a shorter castle nut? it really seems like theyll work, and its just a slight irregularity by an aftermarket parts manufacturer.. the original one also tapers down to a smaller diameter right after it hits its widest point, and goes down into the joint like that.. where the new one achieves its max diameter, and maintains it all the way down (the next 1/4 inch or whatever..) edit Its a ProChassis part, i just called the store. goin to rockauto to see if i can find a prochassis part # there anywhere.
  20. heh, fun with parts stores.... i have 87 GL10, spfi, power steering, automatic trans, 2wd. I ordered the tie rod ends, and they seem to not fit. They looked the same, but when i tried to tighten the castle nut down and tap it with hammer on the bottom to fit it into the steering knuckle.. eventually i stripped the castle nut. OK, i think, got the castle nut off, and checked the old one.. and the old one wouldnt fit. the stud is just larger than the old one, in all aspects it would seem (since i couldnt drive it all the way up into the hole...) is this a part for a manual steering rack? different year? or could it be the right part? i checked the diameters at different points on both balljoint studs.. The original one has a diameter between the threads on the stud of 9mm, replacement has 10.. tapered end of mounting surface on original, 12mm diameter, replacement 13.. and widest side of mounting surface on original, 14mm diameter, replacement 15.. it looks as if it will go into the hole far enough, but my castle nut was a little to tall for me to pin it at that point.. i tried to pin it several times before i presumed i must tighten further... and then stripped the nut. so do i need a new castle nut or did i get the wrong part? the rest of it looks like it came out of the same mold, or else i would doubt the parts guy a little more... but these guys arent a big corporate chain full of ninnys, its a good store, and they know me (i worked there for a little while...) please, i was supposed to be at work by now and i NEED to get to work to make some cash, i rolled quarters and nickels to buy both tie rod ends....
  21. question, with a vehicle that has mpfi (not a soob, im thinking more general terms on this type of project).. my thoughts for a single venturi would be to locate it where the cold start injector is, typically just behind the throttle body.. that should work right? or, with that type of setup would you rather have "injectors" where the fuel injectors are? i would think it better to supply all the fuel up where the TB is, at the cold start injector port, and let it go from there...and block off where the injectors would be located. im just basically thinking of using a tuned port intake manifold, as the "carb" so to speak... of course all the FI stuff would be gone, fuel rail, everything... ive ALWAYS wanted to find someone i could talk with about this sort of project. thanks for the replies.
  22. LPGSuperChargedBrumby, YOU ROCK!!!!!! i have w3anted to do an LPG conversion on a car since i was 13, and since you told me just now that you made your own carb out of a TBI TB and a propane venturi..... its gonna be MIGHTY hard for me not to do the same thing..... it just makes so much SENSE.. it might not be a soob though, i might make one out of a 240Z. that or the cars eventually gonna get a 4.6L modular ford driveline in it with a bwT56 and a r200LSD... those are the two pipe dreams for the undriven, unsold automatic datsunZ in my uncles yard.
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