daeron

oh yah, i like it... its a matter of saving alot of money on paint, doing all the same level of work, and ending up with what looks good at first, and has somewhat less longevity than a "good" paintjob.. at a MINISCULE fraction of the cost once upon a time i took a Zcar hood and bondo'd and patched and sanded and primed and sanded and primed and took it from "good" to "damn near perfect" and rattlecanned it.. and that thing looked SWEET until it got when i lowspeed rearended a lady i thought had pulled out from in front of me... i mean she had NO reason not to go, I had no reason not to go, the guy BEHIND me had no reason not to go.. i was watching traffic and feathered my clutch into her......

12 cars, two or three actual impacts, four complete suspension failures on the down slope, one car totaled thru seismic activity.

are those color ratings universal????? and, at that amperage, why use a fusible link and not an ATO fuse??!!?!?

have you considered adding a stabilizer mount at the tail end of the tranny? something on the passenger side that would bolt to the tranny and provide against rotational movement as well as gyroscopic movement? (IE the driveline spinning around when viewed from a birdseye..) I thought thats what you meant in your first reply after my first reply.. but i couldnt be sure, after reading your last post.

i cant believe i didnt mention this before.. its also a good idea to degrease the fins with something along the lines of simple green.. but you inspected it. weer they dirty? if they were clean, if you could hold it up to the sunlight and still be inpressed with the amount of light showing thru, then youre cool, but a very very greasy dirty radiator will NOT cool as well as a nice clean one. I mean, you said no fin rot, so i imagine you checked the fins fairly well.. but my window AC, and smoking in my room, (and my cat with all her fur..) taught me the importance of making sure ANY fins on ANY coil of ANY sort are as CLEAN as possible!! so just a thought. check the condition of the AC coil too.. if air doesnt flow thru it well, it wont hit the radiator very well either. EDIT DOH, i went and posted.. and failed to notice page two of the thread. sorry, didnt see you concluded the radiator was not your problem.

okay, im being lazy.. but im about 99.9995% sure that im about to give some people a nice day. over a year ago my uncle took over rent payments on a bay further down in his shop complex that was full of "datsun parts, racing 510 stuff, motors, transmission, a bunch of corvair stuff, you name it." He also a few years prior, had acquired a massive parts collection from this guy Peanut, who went with his wife to go do Missionary work in Haiti (they work with a food truck program.. she cooks and he fixes the trucks.) Anyhow, I _believe_ i have several new units, like new units, and new/like new components for the stock EA82T turbo. Also i think several NOS OEM ea-81? radiators, i think a passenger power mirror for an XT (white) and some other NOS soob stuff.. at one point we threw away like 50 shocks or strut cartridges for ~1980 subaru?? unidentified model.. but most of the stuff we have and are packratting... but need to get rid of!!! i need a picture of the subaru turbocharger. one that i can use to identify an unknown part. the thing says ICI on it on the stamp, but thats all I can recall. I dont wanna make any promises on coming up with the parts, but i want to try and get this stuff from my uncle and sell it here on the cheap, to make some friends, earn some karma, and maybe get some crap for my car... He has to get rid of it, wants to get rid of it, will happily split it 50/50 or better with me if i can get rid of it.. so this is gonna be cheap good stuff (its all like NOS i swear) but its not gonna be tomorrow. when i get any sort of inventory i will post, but i need some initial help in identifying some of the stuff.. and i need time to actually FIND it all. thanks for the help.. it might even be reciprocated...

heh, try being a DATSUN guy on the east coast... in south florida, no less, with ocean less than ten miles away in one direction, and no more than 15 miles away in any direction but north!!! i cannot immediately recall the last time i found a 280Z applicable to mine in a junkyard. its been a couple years. (actually, 260/280, 74-76 is what im lookin for, IDEALLY, somewhat any 240/260/280 70-78.. FAIRLY wide range of total modelbase..) as for soobs, i see enough to keep my car around... but not enough to have seen another GL-10, or any EA-82s with 4wd other than the pushbutton auto setup....or ANY ea82Ts.. I wasnt even sure they turbo'd em until i found the forum..

i went from stock size (175-70r13) to 185-70s, and noticed a great deal of improvement in handling and steering response.. saying that, i suppose i should qualify it, and say it exactly as i thought it.. I have never before noticed so much difference from such a minimmal tire size change. no idea what other sizes might be like, havent tried them. 87GL-10, front wheeler with an auto, for reference

sister mary frances, if i had any idea that those tings were gonna be worth that much i would have had one for my first car and fully restored it!! t tops, dr 4x4, jumper seats, cyclops eye, and all!!!!! me and my buddy played with one his dad picked up when i was 16... and when it started it COULD have been salvaged.. and by now im sure i would have fallen in love with it enough to make it that. My uncle gave me a weber for it as it was, when me and chris were just playing with it trying to make it an offroad toy... but he ripped everything out of the interior except the gauge pod, and then proceeded to rip out "all that electrical junk under the hood, too" including all ignition wiring.. so the "kustom" carb manifold we made (IIRC it was bad.. real bad.. but not awful given our minimal knowledge at the time...) was to no avail, and the thing never ran in our possession.. and then got towed out of his yard. i think it was an 83. but im not sure. actually, i still had the haynes manual around two years ago when i got my GL-10, and surprise!! it was just as applicable (and LESS useful) to the GL than the brat!

Oh GOD!! my landlord used to have one of those.. that thing was AWFUL.. but he bought it with neglecting it in mind. the first thing he did with it, he says, was to run a shppoing cart into it. "Just so that it knows it isn't going to be cared for.." he had the thing for four or five years.. fan stopped coming on. he wired a house light switch in the grill for it. odo quit just over 125K.. thre eyears before it tanked. it didnt even die, but the transmission was so bad, and the engine was so low on power (once, i changed the oil filter, drained the oil, and gave it new plugs/wires/disty cap., and once [after living for nine months with a spare battery and a charger at home] i put an alternator in it) that he put it out of its misery. the only thing that wasnt godawful about that car was the little dealer logo on the back.. it came from Abraham Pontiac in Roswell, New Mexico. this guys my friend's dad, and we called him the rocket scientist when we were teenagers cuz his degree is in aerospace engineering (BS, not postgrad) and he was just.. crazy.... but i have nothing but bad memories of that car. well, it IS a gm 100 amp alternator that i have to go in my datsun now... so i suppose bad memories, and one part. :- ) hey, i already had a lifetime warranty on that alternator in my name at AutoZone... and i didnt even have to pay for it, he did!! i wasnt letting that go to the junkyard!

i have learned alot about automotive electrical systems in the last six or seven years.. and i have to admit im a bit stumped as to exactly what youre talking about, too.... what you are saying is that there is positive current somehow leaking into your chassis ground? or what? i mean, i have read a post or two about this floating electrical problem you (bgd) have, and they seemed to make more sense than this one. could someone please explain exactly what youre talking about? certain bits of metal are acting as grounds and certain bits arent? i can see that causing serious problems.. but i cant say i could predict everything it might cause.. I guess, I'm trying to say that I know enough about 'lectrical junk to know that this is right about the definition of the edge of what i DONT know/understand/grok in fullness.....

heh, im totally ignorant of the front bearing setup on the soobs as mine hasnt had any problems yet.. but even if it could be problematic, i would imagine you should be able to find a way to "strap" the wheels in to the frame of the car... and prevent any shaking that might lead to your feared disaster.... you know what im saying? Im trying to find a way, without having any clue how the assembly in question is put together (or could come apart) to suggest that you secure the front wheels in a manner that prevents any possible movement that might cause the potential calamity you described.

wasnt insane in _quite_ the same way, but i had a brake job on my 75 280Z that i wound up putting off till christmas eve afternoon one year.. (odd timing i know.. i did my brakes on 9/11/2002 too.. had a ticket to pay that day as well.) and upon leaving my uncles shop after finishing (late) i drove off and heard a clunking in the rear... eventually turned around and went back to the shop to investigate. 1/4 mile down the road from his place, i went over train tracks.. clunk gets REALLY bad and i kick the drivers side rear wheel at about 20-30? i dont remember. dragging on the rear lower A-arm.. JUST barely. if the shocks hadnt held so stiff, the gas tank was next... the wheel went bounding off into the distance.. and i had to jack the car up by the rear bumper mount, then get another under the diff to pick it the rest of the way up to get a wheel on. of course, the next morning my brother and I had to go hunting for the wheel.. christmas morning, and this is just about the nastiest neighborhood in town.. I'm not one to have qualms about that sort of thing (i drive thru there all the time-duh..) it certainly doesnt make for a nicer christmas morning wheel hunt.. the final verdict was that my family was guilty of telling me i needed to use wheel spacers with these wheels i was borrowing for like two weeks on the rear.. when in fact i needed acorn style lugnuts, instaed of sleeved mag-type.. so the spacer was inappropriate, as was the lugnut. the scary thing was that cars had been raced with these rims and lugnuts and spacers on autocross tracks.... many times.. i guess they used more torque than I, but i still dont take the blame for it.

heh Look, lemme give him the benefit of the doubt!! just because you folks are lucky doesnt mean i cant indulge the empathy of all those other souls out there who suffer from my difficulties... :- ) and dont call it the left coast. i am very pro east coast.. and i dont like the connotation that your "left coast" has about my "east coast". Its not right. if that made sense.

well, youre supposed to pour it in, and after a certain amount cut the engine off and let it sit for five or ten minutes, arent you? maybe this is an FI/carb difference or something, but ive always sucked it up with a vacuum line, and then cut the engine for ten minutes. THEN run it, and it smokes like crazy. the smoking is everything it cleans out being burned off. im fairly certain you are supposed to give it more contact time, but it had to help, whatever you did. as far as a second application.. the seafoam itself shouldnt cause too much smoking... its the stuff that burns off. if you try it again, and its clean, no smoke.. that means you were finished the first time. I have never done two applications in a row. if you want to give it a shot, it shouldnt hurt. anyone else do two seafoam treatments in short succession??

ball joint, my thoughts as well. tie rod ends would be fairly apparent, and more alignment altering. (they are the alignment.)

okay..... is there anywhere (handy) that i might be able to read up enough on automatic transmission function, to understand what you guys are talking about? i have pretty much always considered automatic transmissions out of my league. I would like to confirm or refute that, if possible. should i just do a search? :insert sheepish grin here:

are those subaru wheels on that? they look an awful lot like a type of facoty mag that came on first gen RX7s that had the word mazda written on one of the "spokes".. also, thats what I call a "50/50 job".. meaning it looks good from fifty feet away, at fifty miles an hour, and/or both. please dont take offense, i own two vehicles IN NEED of 50/50 jobs.. im just calling it how i see it. my soob has huge-O rust holes at the bottom corners of the rear windshield (sedan) We are talking, reach down into the trunk and wave at people through the empty speaker hole, rust holes.....i have GOT to get some pics of this car, its a GAS in one sense, but a bloody shame cuz theres too much rust to fixit. its not just there. its everywhere. trunk, pillar rails, windshield, fenders, driver door, maybe other doors (how often do i see them, and it took me till the other day to notice the rust on my door..) and so on...

water pump, maybe oil pump seals to keep the tick of death at bay, timing belts, rear main, front main, camshaft seals.... oilpan gasket? sorry. but the answer to your last question, would be all of those gaskets that GD just said you could get away with not doing. they lifters are hydraulic, i dont know if there is any sort of bench service that can be done to them?? while you have the heads off.. and the oilpump was a suggestion "since you're there" if you elect to do a water pump, dont scrimp. make sure that the silly pipe and hose apparatus that is the outlet (i think?) for the pump is properly sealed and in good shape.. i dont know if any of these aluminum pieces have started to ossify and destryo themselves on the subes yet, but i know mine looked like many a datsun coolant piece that LOOKED okay until disassembly.. and then crumbled... but many have looked the same and been perfectly fine, smack em with a rubber mallet and they dont break.. But make sure everything looks good. you are already doing the difficult bit, and if you arent going to do any head modding, or port matching type work, thats about it. as for your ignition ??s, i dont know. im not that enlightened yet. enjoy the cleveland, its nice to play with what our parents grew up with once in a while, before its forgotten.. because i think at 3 bucks a gallon and rising, the time of those vehicles is not much longer.. even as eccentrics... its going to take wealth to drive a car like that much sooner than i think most of us would like.

for starters, great response to this lick trend that was being established. Hopefully, that bud is nipped. you say mooshy center, i say rust.. lets not start it secondly, i think that raven was asking the question to further his own understanding, not to establish debate by any means... he simply drew attention to an apparent contradiction of confidentiality and a public license declaration (just like in the elevators, and the X-ray rooms in the hospital, or the insurance and similar licenses posted at mechanic's shops, etc) However, the answers were enlightening nevertheless. A question that made for reasonable discussion.

I have lived my whole life hating NAPA. I couldn't tell you for certain that they DON'T have cable lugs, but to read that shocked me. I suppose the stores down here just stink. Anyone care to sound off on NAPA stores, up north versus southeast US/Florida? because I have never seen a very large, or very helpful store.. they are usually just slightly overpriced.

okay quoting em all.. i think BGDs point was, that to conservatively supply an engine with air/fuel, is to extend life, viability, and vibrance of the engine.. but then he started talking about forty below, and an intake plenum, and backdoor fuel pumps.. i think he might've tipped back a pint or two tonight :- ) welp, i know i did.

you can give the radiator a quick check for clogs by touching your hand to it and moving up and down along the coils.. they should all feel evenly warm. A good block flush can help as well. i dont know if there is a way to hook a hose up to the block and flush it out while you are doing the same to the radiator (as GeneralDisorder suggested above) but i think you could remove the thermostat and hit pressure from a hose into the housing?? am i right, or would that not be of any assistance? to be honest, im just trying to help with ideas and tips. The subject is one that is discussed frequently, and you seem to be receiving a lackluster response.. but if you patiently search using different terms, you can read the threads that i have been passivley reading, (that have given me these vague concepts im swinging at you) and read them with more interest and "motivation" if you will... you can find all the info you need. search block flush, back flush, coolant flush, who knows. Good luck, i wish i could be more specific.

OK, for starters, yah he just probly drilled thru the puck, and threaded a bolt or two thru it and used it like a bushing between the metal flanges.. or whatever, i dont think ive looked at my motor mounts enough to know how theyre built. but i had a friend, who had a friend who lifted his truck this way. Unfortunately, as bushings do, (especially uber-redneck ones like this,) they wear. This gentlman actually had the misfortune of having to cancel plans with a lady friend because he had to change the hockey pucks on his truck. she dumped him. Second off, the home made motor mount.. my little brothers done it. it worked good. i dont know if its still in use or not, but i _think_ so, and the car is a civic CRX hf with a crx SI driveline in it (read: 1700lb curb weight, ~130? hp or more, good torque, nice gearbox.. sweet little car, well balanced and everything.. the only honda whose songs i will sing.) so it gets/got driven. I know it worked, well, AT LEAST for a while, and i think is still doing so. try it. I personally think that each of us have a similar sort of neurosis about trying to eek that power we feel is in there out somehow.... and you are probably a little right. but youre probably a little S O L too.. if you replace your motor mounts, im sure you will see better response.. but dont forget you are also building your car to your specs no subarus. its no longer a loyale.. its your loyale.. and when you get right down to it, THAT is the single most amazingly spectacular fact about these bloody cars! they are bases, models to start our work on.. ten, fifteen, twenty years after rolling out of a factory!! that has always really been my major test for just about any vehicle.. (also one of the things i like about the CRX) "I mean, its all well and good what the manufacturer did to your car.. but I like what I did to mine better." <---- THATS what im getting at.

i had my dad's favorite pair of four inch vise grips as my passenger window crank for about three years in my 280Z.. then i found a car in the junkyard with like four cranks, and sheepishly brought it back to his house.... on the one hand, he wasn't very happy that i'd stolen his vise grips.. knowingly.. but on the other hand, they were returned to him just after all of his tools had been stolen in a break-in...SO it was kind of a silver lining.