daeron

well GD was talking about a swap he had done which invloved different model years, and i think maybe even different models, and it was an earlier car (82-3??) that he had all the diode soldering issues on... and ive heard its not THAT complicated on the later cars.. but its complicated in similar ways. me, i hate the idea of separate gauge pods. I would be mounting the tach, speedo, and gauges inside an old analog pod if i could. retain stock fuel gauge, replace volts water and oil, and the tach and speedo. then get a little horizontal LED display stoichiometer. (mixture gauge, i always call em that. i love the term "stoich") then youve got all you need for your standard motor in the dash, and a single boost gauge could go on the steering column.. or I still like the idea of the gauges mounted down in the center console, below the ashtray where the trip computer got relocated to on later years... but thats only an option if you dont have the later model, with the trip computer down there, i suppose.

not really. the water pump is going to suffer from a clogged radiator, not vice versa.. it sounded like you might be trying to hope a new water pump would "puch through" your clog.. and its not. its not worth it either. to replace the radiator takes like ten minutes, twenty if you have an auto trans like me and have to find a way to get a screwdriver on those hose clamps for the oil coolant lines right up against the #$%*(^ing fenderwall... and yah the radiators like 100 bucks.. but it is SOOO worth it, even if it DOESNT fix your problem, to know you have a nice new rad in there and that is NOT your problem. plus its easier than a water pump.

did you use the install kit from crutchfield to retain the trip computer?? im looking at doing the same install, same car.. but the kit presumes i have a DIN cage (i dont) and it also looks like its supposed to sit on the little horizontal bracket.. but in that case, you have to cut the hole out lower than the original hole. (the one for the old fashioned two knob stereos) I have a cupholder and two metal brackets to screw onto my stereo, and the cupholder nicely takes up the space between that support bracket and the stereo mounted up at the top, where it should go... i guess i shall just eagerly await some pictures. anything of the way the stereo and adapter went into the dash would be great :- )

okay.. this was best explained to me with an analogy. instead of a wire, and electricity, picture a pipe, and water or air. the wattage is how much work gets done by that "air" (turning your impact driver, say..) the amperage could be likened to the speed at which the "air" moves inside the pipe.. one amp = one coulomb per second, or minute i forget which. a coulomb is a specific quantity of electrical charge. this is basically like saying "cubic feet per minute" of airflow... with electricity more speed (higher amps) means more heat buildup due to resistance, so your circuit is always limited... to a given rating. the voltage is most like the pressure at which your system operates.. but a device that runs at 12 volts, and is rated at say, 300 watts is going to draw 25 amps.... so add up the wattage of your lights, and divide it by twelve. if you want to pad that number, you can, but you should be able to just presume 12 volts for designing the fuse layout on your lights... so you have one 110 watt circuit, and one 200 watt. a ten amp would be ample for the 110, and a 20 for the 200. The CB and stereo could probably go on the same circuit. the fuse is there to protect them from drawing more power than they are supposed to see.. without the fuse, if your stereo shorts out it will take all the juice it wants to... but with a fuse inline, if it draws more than X amps (usually 10 for stereo alone) then the fuse blows and your equipment is protected. what i am saying is, put your cb and stereo on the same circuit. (unless its some big honking CB that ive never seen the like of) if a 10 amp fuse blows, step up slowly until you dont blow them with both devices functioning normally.. (ie CB on, lit up, stereo on, pop the CD out or play it and make sure nothing blows) If you can find power ratings on the stereo and CB, then dont exceed to sum of the two.. but 15 should cover them, 20 almost definitely. you might consider running each light bulb on its own fuse. thats the best way to set them up, by far. but keep in mind *while building, not repairing* that the fuse is there to protect, and if your hardwires can take it (ie your fuse panel has a high enough max rating) and you know your component is good (brand new fan that has been thoroughly tested etc etc) then the "right" fuse is the smallest one that doesnt blow under load. i hope i managed to clear some confusion for you, if not please PM me. Sometimes these issues can be learned just from reading something like what i *tried* to write, but sometimes it makes a MAJOR difference actually talking to someone about it. so if you need to clear anything up go ahead and ask.

testy: a few other things to change would be air and fuel filters. the air filter over time becomes a serious inhibitor of the motor's ability to breathe, so to speak, and fuel filters have a dirty job. I have yet to _actually_ experience a situation where replacing the fuel filter gave me better performance, but it is a vital tune-up part nevertheless. i say that ive never expereinced it, but im no pro.. just some guy, you know? the air filter is a different story. replace them all, get a good air filter (im trying this premium label STP air filter now, it seems nice.. but without proper flow-testing equipment its all a guess) and see how she runs. if youre looking for simple items to try to give you some more power, heh.. theres not a GREAT abundance of additional power to be had, without making serious motor mods.. but you can look at the exhaust, and replace the original muffler.. do a search here on the forum and you can find several discussions about muffler swaps, the muffler you put on is important but not as specific as what comes OFF.. namely the old muffler thats been beaten around for 20 years. some increase in the size of the exhaust piping might be in order, but not much or you lose backpressure, and it hurts more than it helps. Alot of people like to put the K&N Filters on there, but the jury still seems out on that one... the more i look, however, the more people whose intelligence i highly respect say that K&N is a ripoff, beyond the lifetime warranty, and that the higher flow is irrelevant. As I recently discovered that our cars air filter cartridge is the same called for in a turbocharge 280ZX (thats forced induction, much bigger motor, about 8x1 compression.. so needs MUCH more air i am thinking) I have given up on the idea of a K&N. if the paper filter can flow enough for that motor, it can flow enough for mine. The biggest thing i have planned (i have about the same modest goals and limits to how far im tearing into it as you) is to take the intake (or at least the TB) off and make sure its all well port matched. i believe it was bgd who had posted a link to his write up of discovering that his thorttle body didnt even line up right with his manifold, the two cricles were not concentric... but that is a good thought. alternately, replace it with the ej22 turbo intercooled... THEN go get your megasquirt setup, and bigger injectors, hood scoop, NOS, hell, lets just get a turbine for it :- )

well since you havent gotten any answers from anyone who knows more than I, I'll go ahead and put in my two bits... most wiper systems have a relay for the intermittent setting (thats what i call it, ive heard "interval" too...) so you should try tracing down a relay in your wiring diagrams.. im not sure there is one on the soob setup, but i mean.. as far as my knowledge goes, it sorta needs it.. the relay is *essentially* like the flasher unit you use for your turn signals.. so it shouldnt be that difficult, but as far as i know that should be your missing link. i have no idea whether the actual motor assembly would be any different for int. wipers, but i cannot see any reason why.. it just needs that switching power to it.

hey all.. i drive pizzas in south florida, and its raining out tonight... my tires are el cheapo (at the moment) and i have poor wet traction. My primary problem is with takeoffs, because with this auto there is never much acceleration unless it floored.... and in the rain that means spinning tires. tires spin too easily as it is. however, in s fl rain traffic... driving as slow as this forces me to do makes my job take way too long... so my point is, i want to know if it hurts the tranny to start out from a redlight with the gear lever in first, limiting its shift until i want to pop it up into second, and then into drive... I want to be able to stay in lower gear until i tell it to shift, not when the throttle cable tells it to shift... you know what im saying? im leaving for work in two hours or less, so prompt response is appreciated.. but this is a question i have had for a long time anyhow, both generic and vehicle-specific... so any input, experiences etc is helpful. I have never liked shifting an auto trans manually.. but using the lever to limit the gear is a different story from mindlessly downshifting into first at 35MPH every time, right?

Moscow man.. hey, have you noticed those initials are MSD? anyhow, i also have an 87 GL10 with digidash, and I also hate it with the burning firy of a thousand suns. I, however, have decided to cope with the digi.. but should you replace it and find its not such a chore on our model (since the only difference is trans, 2wd and non turbo) then it might enhearten me in my own endeavours. Please, if you get it done (even if just the speedo, tach, and fuel gauge) let me know. I was thinking the other day and felt that one could probably cut spaces out where the stock analog water oil and voltage are and just replace them with small aftermarket gauges.. thusly improving the accuracy of your reading and avoiding adding a gauge pod.. which i hate. oh, and simplifying the task of the "conversion" as you can ignore the oil, volt, and temp circuits entirely.... btw, i dont know, but i *think* the speedo problem you were thinking of, with the oil seal, is just an EA-81 model issue. am i right people? i know ive read about this before, its an issue involving a speedo that either flips all the way to top speed, or something... anyhow, thats part of our world tonight.

heh beg pardon. by the time i actually got to finish that posting, i had totally forgotten what the original vehicle was, so forgive me. but OHC rocks anyhow, so nyah!

heh, the turbo-gay only applied to the odd application that we didnt expect... (those of us that weren't already aware..) no automotive offense intended :- p just being a little indulgent with my choice of werds.....

yah my dad blew a motor in his about twelve years ago... err,, more like fifteen.. gosh that awful... but we had gotten a bad case of motor oil, blew the ford's 351 windsor, the xt6 motor, and our lawn tractor in one week. and the only lawyer in town had a conflict of interest.. i forget the whole story, i have to ask my folks about that one.. i was like, nine... but uber-expensive, not easy to come by. its a fun car as is. enjoy it.

isnt there a member of this forum whose name is Loyale 2.7 Turbo ??? he has a yellow loyale, and lives in south america.. his english is good, but not perfect.. i mean, he posts here and is readily understood, and im sure understands everything. but, could you hold technical discussions on a custom turbocharging setup via an internet message board??? i dont know... but do a search for his name. Loyale 2.7 turbo.. he posts occasionally, i dont know if he maybe doesnt get online everyday like some of us, or doesnt write too much or what. but he will show up, keep your eyes peeled. His avatar (the little pic next to his name on the posts) is a yellow loyale... like, corvette yellow. Loud yellow, with a capital Y, you know.. none of this soft, namby-pamby pastel stuff. but its definitely a job, and if youve never owned or built a turbo car before, the engine seems fine but the vehicle might make it a bit more difficult than it could be. The Turbocharged Xt's were all four cylinder, EA82Ts, which can be coaxed into arguably, what, 200 horse??? but thats with questionable reliability.. you could also swap out a later turbo driveline into the vehicle if you wanted to turbocharge it, but that big pancake six doesnt really leave much under that tiny little sexy hoodline for a turbocharging system. sorry, its just pretty hard to do, which would probably end up costing you copious amounts of either time, or money.. or both, and stress to boot.. but it would be an AWESOME project that i would happily take on myself if i had all the time and money in the world........ so.. there? thats my answer.

GOD i want an xt6:slobber: idle fantasy though, sorry, i just now noticed that you said you were selling one soon... every time i see someones black 89 XT6 5spd i wonder if it was my dads... that made our entire family angry, the bank would not allow us any forgiveness despite 30 years of customership, we have never touched first union again since that.. i mean, we had our dog killed by a coke dealer in NC because my dad pushed the coke pushers out of his bar.. but their boss was his financial backer and landlord, much to our surprise... we got out of there quick, and were back down here in florida on welfare with four kids (including me :- ) to feed and no job... so, the bank took the XT6. ten more payments and it was all ours, but those ten payments were a total of like over 3000 i think. :- (

if you have an air compressor, try disconnecting fuel line from pump outlet and then also under hood where it goes into the fuel intake.. and blow through the line in the car, make sure its not clogged too.. cant hurt, and it rules that possibility out

both those last two are nice.. but i really like that little four light pod on the XT6

working AC says alot, huh?? i got a gl-10 for ya... its got "some" rust.. nah, j/k my car is terminal on the rust im afraid, i need to get some thorough pics and post em to see what you folks think. the shame is there is SO MUCH on the car that runs!! the factory cruise, perfect! the sunroof, almost perfect! speaking of which, if you know about the elec sunroofs in the GL10s, please, PM me, i have a couple questions... ive never worked on one but need to do some stuff with mine, the cover thing seems to have come off its track... but my AC works, the trip computer works, the digidash has no problems, but the chassis.. the rear glass is ready to fall out!! i can see the linkage between my trunk/gas door cable, and the lever it actuates, because of a huge rust hole in the body!! the little black trim pieces on the sides of the rear window.. yah, i didnt know what they looked like for almost two years. theres only even one square hole left unrusted on either side to retain the little retaining clips for them.... rust sucks. My car was Ziebart'ed too......

yah, think of it this way.. you are using your piece of cork, that just HAPPENS to be gasket-shaped, as a mold for your own Kustom Gaskit!! you are upgrading your car to the latest in high tech (high being the operative term) gasketry! no, seriously though.. if you coat the gasket with rubber, then the cork core is permanently isolated from anything, and just serves as a nice, springy center that the rubber skin uses to help itself seat... and the RTV/rubber does all the sealing for you. I have met men who have built more race engines of different sorts than i could conceive who have used GDs trick since my dad didnt even know how to twinkle with his eye yet....if that made sense... and it works. just supporting the point.

it helps with engine bay clutter, and it is about 100 pounds of sprung weight to remove from the car.. it would be like getting rid of half your passenger. sort of a power gain, right?

yah.. unless you just get a ten-sleeve of the bearings necessary, and keep em in da toolbox question tho.. someone said you would have to swap heads for the MPFI... uhm..... huh?!? what heads, the OHC heads?! what heads would you put onto an EA 81 to make it run the MPFI? i would say the spfi is pretty adequate, and i am eternally opposed to "electric carburetors" as i call them ordinarily.. but it seems to me that its the oddballs (the MPFIs) that have more complexity, hence more issues with them and more frequently. However, the MPFI does offer the option of more fuel via larger injectors later... it boils down to one question.. are you going to Want more power when you are done with this, and cope, or are you going to Make more power once this gets "finished?" because if you think it may be open-ended, a motor swap might be in order.. id say ea82T or if you want a ej22.. but i like the idea of the good ol stock turbo, maybe boost controlled, and bigger injectors, running the wheel... that makes all the cummins and banks boys out there that much angrier when they see you skimming thru stuff they couldnt touch with a ten foot pole just cuz theyd sink thats my two bits

wow thats turbo-gay! i have NEVER seen a car with more than one serpentine belt... it DOES sort of seem to remove the point, but really, thats the best of both worlds. no water slippage, better gripping, but you still have the redundancy.. i never understood why car mnaufacturers didnt just go like that anyhow, with the btter style belts in the same configuration they always used for the multi-v-belts... leave it to subaru, huh??? they ACTUALLY did it the right way, but it was so un anticipated i actually called it "turbo-gay" (and i didnt mean to insult the concept of turbocharging, either abstract or concrete, in the slightest.)

hey all.. for the record. i was a veterinary technician for eight years, and i know this to be a fact... ethylene glycol (most antifreeze, if not all) tastes sweet, and cats/dogs/other household pets HAVE been known to drink it.... it IS of course, a deadly poison, but TREATMENT IS EASY.... IF administered in time. one word. Booze. if you have any 91% grain alcohol around (ethyl alcohol, NOT rubbing alcohol) or bacardi 151, get that stuff down the puppy's throat. Seriously. it reacts with the ethylene glycol, bonds with it, puppy doesnt even get drunk, but it is safely metabolized out of the system. Call you vet or emergency hospital first if you arent sure, but it is a valid treatment. we used to have an OOOLD bottle of grain spirits at one hospital (illegal for sale in FL since the 70s i think) for just such a need, but it never came up. it is very rare, too, but it occurred to me when he said to drink it yourself :- ) i figured it cant hurt anything to put it out there. spread the word.

scroll your browser up to the top of the page.. at the top right there are four links, home, forum, USRM, and photos.. all are FASCINATING, let me tell you, but the USRM is the Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual. also, i believe its mikeshoup who has a partial 1989 factory service manual on pdf on his website.. find him and ask him nicely, and he could give you the URL. i dont have it handy, a search would probably turn it up. anyway, between the USRM, the FSM, and another book called how to keep your subaru alive (HTKYSA) which he also has on that page, you should be A OK. the HTYKSA is a little outdated for our cars, but it can be helpful if you find that the other knowledge bases ive given you are over your head.. if nothing else. they probly wont be, you wouldnt be jumping into this and talking like that if you weren't failry well versed with a wrench already :- ) anyhow, in the USRM there is a great procedure for timing belt installs, there are a few tricks so to speak. its NOT 100 percent straightforward.. if you can do your standard twin timing belt job without thinking and try to to a EA82 the same way, you might make an error.. but its easy once youve been shown past the tricky part (its not even really a trick, just a common hanging-up point for ppl who havent done it) but ALSO in the USRM there is a procedure for checking your ECU codes, and the ECU has two test modes.. one will output any codes relating to check engine light, but the other is a diagnostic mode used for dealer checkups.. and shows errors that will not cause a CEL (check engine) you could do this and it might show you need a new O2 sensor, or something equally inane. just a tweak, its easy to do.. there are two diff. connectors, you ID the right one to plug for the test and look at the ECU's blinkylight (its under the dash cover) change your air and fuel filters, and keep reading the USMB, and soon enough you will be able to figure out any (potential) probelsm with your ears :- ) j/k, but this is a great community based on a great car, i really didnt like mine that much when i got it (it was super slow, 3 spd auto, yech.. and 2wd :- () but once i found the one decent acceleration curve the thing has, it gets up and goes... plus while its only got 84 or 90 hp (depends on year, i think youre higher) its got like 115 ft-lbs O' torque, so it can move. just not very quickly.. good luck, have fun. OH, and BTW... the TOD is the tick of death. it is your hyrdaulic lifters clicking. sounds godawful, but it is NOT your motor about to fly apart on you.. it can come and go, its caused by junk in the lifters making them stick. can be cleaned out, also is a sign of weak oil pump (need new seals, poor pressure/flow of pressure) its just kind of a morbid name given to it. it SOUNDS bad.. but add a little oil, or tweak it somehow, and it should go away.. better to fix problem though. oh yah, and im wordy. blanket apology. my bad

why would failing head gaskets pressurize the cooling system? i am having all the same symptoms, have new rad, no thermostat, replaced aftermarket fan (which was turning the wrong way.. blowing the right way but inefficiently) with stock fan, new rad hose (blew it) and new water pump (blew it) and still occasional heatups (i drive pizzas full time, so it happens with AC on in so. florida summer sometimes, nothing major) but the constant bubbling into my overflow when i cut the car off... ungood. but i need to do seals, and may be swapping a fivespeed in soon anyhow, so we shall see.. if i do this i just might do a thorough head job on the motor. depends on the compression check, and wet test, and leakdown test results, i guess.. if the bottom end is worth another 100K without any major work, then i might just give it the full 60,000 mile. the t-belts have 30K on them, put them on when i got the car. oh yah to clarify, ive changed the oil, no coolant in oil.. changed the coolant, no oil in coolant.. but water does disappear.. and more (i would think?) than what bubbles out... so headgakset bad, coolant leak into combustion chamber? i remember hearing something about a carbureted vehicle with water jets into the air-fuel... my uncle had that sort of set up at one point. isnt it supposed to help?? i dunno, could that be the point of HG failure? the list is getting longer and longer...

cougar has a good point, wiggle them all thoroughly, and try to have someone wiggle them while you try to start it. just be careful with em.

uhm, where are the pictures at???? i saw no link...