daeron

random offtopic.. TURBO idiot lights always seemed stupid to me. my friend had a turbo volvo, and that came with a manifold pressure gauge that was un numbered... just had a two colored bar on it, like the blue and red bars on a heat/cold lever.... just, dumb. put numbers on it, guys!!! its SIMPLE! sorry. had to say it.

mating surface issues?? what might exist that a proper milling would not alleviate? again, searching for enlightenment :cool: and what do you think of the cooling system? ive never seen this motor apart at ALL (and ive seen several different datsun, chevy, ford, outboards of all sizes, lawnmower, generator etc.. engines TOTALLY dismantled, and assisted on numerous engine rebuilds... just never been the one "doing" it) so im curious.. your post was a teaser. youre just baiting someone to be like, "Unh uh!! soobs RAWK and u r DUM!!" what do you think of the cooling system? is it related to the high point between the "sides" of the engine you were discussing? that could be routed around, couldnt it? im picturing a retrofit of a different radiator here... maybe a three outlet rad, and retrofit the t-stat housing like one on an RX-7 (all i could think off offhand) that has the radiator cap on it?? that would get rid of having to "burp" the engine... something tells me theres gotta be a fix, between ALL of our ideas....

that sounds like about the sum and total of a turbo ea-82.. or ANY ea-82 really.. i mean, am i right??? ive learnt alot about cars thru this car and this forum and the last four months... really, its been a cementing or maturation of what i already knew (i DID keep a 75 EFI datsun 280Z on the road for 5 years and about 70K miles, before i got my soob, for the record) so, correct me if im wrong... but that seems to sum up the motor.. if we had some really good, solid head gaskets.. then we could make the engine cooling (thru two row rads, and oil coolers even) and the air cooling (for the turbos) to make ALOT of power out of a 300K mile (500K km) engine!!! well, alot for a 2500 lb compact sedan/wagon at least!

EXCELLENT advice, the one thing ive forgotten to suggest in any correspondence was getting a cheap multimeter, at least, if you dont have one already. if theres a harbor freight tools in your area, they have em for five bucks sometimes. not the most accurate thing, and i wouldnt trust it to give an accurate resistance reading to save my life.... BUT its fine for approximate voltage readings, or relative readings..... what i mean is, if my craftsman or fluke says i have 13.45 volts, and the harbor freight says 11.8... i believe the fluke.. but if i see 11.8 from the HF, then i know my component is powered, yanno?

how old are you???? this is PROBABLY going to become your favorite car youve ever owned. my dad has driven Zcars (mostly 240, one 300ZX and one turbo 280ZX that was FAST...) for thirty years, and one subaru XT6 (89, brand new, five speed) and as much as he loves his zcars.... he STILL says the soob was the most amazing car hes ever owned. also been an owner of several 6-cylinder 60s era alfa romeos... a couple of V8 american POSs... (beg pardon, call it a prejudice) one race-prepped miata and a couple of RX-7s. absolutely one of the coolest cars ever made. i hold it in higher esteem than the SVX, but thats because ive only seen svxs at 20mph or more... never even pulled up next to one stationary at a stoplight. :- (

i have like a 80 dollar escort.. and i swear by god, that thing has paid for itself about six times over...that only takes like, two, maybe three tickets avoided. but hey... i love the thing. cant understand the need for a cordless one, though. do what syonyk said. I have found that most of the plastic interior panels, (especially the one going along the pillar between the windshield and the driver window) are VERY easy to remove and replace.

LOL, the leafblower supercharger... thats an OLD idea of mine...before i knew what those things sticking out of the hotrods' hoods were, and when i was first having turbocharging explained to me, i said "so its like free power" and was corrected, "no, it robs some power from impeding the exhaust flow.." my answer was, "well couldnt you put a little leaf blower, with a separate gas engine, in there??" answer: silence. I still wonder about that on opccasion.. but ive seen the silly little electric superchargers... and i know they are worthless.. but to be honest, the supercharger idea has plagued my thoughts since you made the post mentioning the little MB units... im trying to decide what i want to do long term with my car.. and im wondering about converting to LPG (i would need to redo a gas tank then, and my trunk totally needs to be replaced anyhow.. rust has destroyed both rear wuarter panels, and the rust goes up to the mounting area for the rear glass.. so if an LPG conversion means cutting out the trunk, and building a custom one anyhow... then thats just "fixing the rust") and given that.. im wondering how much work it really would be to put a small blower on to give it an extra couple HP... and i know it would be alot of work for little result, but thats exactly what i want..just a small boost of the NA power. all just a pipe dream right now, but i may well be searching for this thread someday...

well i realize its reviving an old thread.. but since no one else had commented on it, i HAD to put in my two bits...... theres gonna suddenly be ALOT of chevy guys who dont understand why their rebuilt alternator has that little bit of slop on the pivot bolt....

heh, im <500 miles shy of 140K on my GL-10, 87. should hit it by next weekend. daily driver, deliverer of pizza extraordinaire.. driving ~100 miles a day, i only make about 25mpg city driving, but im working on restoring the SPFI to pristine operating condition still.. and i need headgaskets/seals too... other than that, a little TOD, and a few minor alternator/bearing/consumable issues, not a problem in the world!! just awful killer chronic nasty terminal cancer.. This car is going to rust out from under me as I drive it. Im honestly planning, long term, to keep the car in a sense.. but by that i mean maintain the thing as if i were gonna fix the rust and paint it (almost impossible, must post pics) and keep my eyes peeled for a donor chassis and hopefully drivetrain (i have 2wd 3spd auto, ech...) but thats gonna be hard cuz this is a GL10, and i like the sunroof.... and its gonna be hard to find another one...

not if the driver side belt is broken, i think the disty us run off the back of that camshaft. i know ive heard people say that it wont turn with the driver side belt broken. that is DEFINITELY a thing to check, as its a job within the scope of anyone who wants to try working on the car.. its a simple job if you follow procedure. Tyler: if you want to check the ECU to see if its getting power, it has a self test.. as i understand reading the FSM, when you turn the key to on, the ECU is supposed to turn on all the idiot lights. (check engine, oil pressure, brake dash light, seat belt warning light, i think a voltage light, etc) When the key is on, the engine off, and these lights are all on (like they usually are on any car) that SHOULD be an indication that the ECU is on, powered, and ready to crank the engine. so if you have those lights, and no spark, then the ECU is at least on and TRYING to function, as i understand it. I thought i had read that in the FSM, and i tried just now to look that up to quote it.. but i couldnt. there is a test mode for the ECU.. and if there are no check engine lights on with the vehicle running (have there been?) then when you connect the "read memory" connectors, the light on the ECU will blink like 4 to 7 times, and that number is a vehicle specification mumber (US, Canada, California, and auto or manual) as well as an all clear indicator. there should be a pair of white and a pair of green connectors that are unplugged either under your hood, right in front of the drivers windshield wiper; or inside the car, under the plastic cover below the steering column. If you find those connectors, make a post here or PM me. i sent you a pm with my email address... find those connectors, and check your timing belt by watching the distributor turning... not that someone breaking in and stealing your stereo would snap a timing belt, but we need to confirm that the distributor is functioning...troubleshootng a problem like this is a process of ruling problems out, one at a time. so pull the cap, crank the engine, and make sure the rotor is turning. once you find those connectors, go here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 and here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53831 to read up on how you can check the ECU for certain. you plug in the white ones, which are the read memory connectors.. and providing you havent had any CEL in the past, the small (red?) LED on the ECU should flash 4 or 5-7 times, telling you by that number what kind of car you have. if it does that we KNOW the ecu is powered and functional. if you have a multimeter you can check the fusible links by testing continuity thru them... but the simplest way is to take them off, (one at a time so you put them back on in the right places) and flex the wire thru your fingers.. they should be pliable and feel strong throughout. if there is a weak point, or they feel weird, they are bad. its a fuse, it blows by melting under too much current.. and they can kinda half-burn out.. which is a reasonable possibility since someone jacked the stereo, they might have caused a short for a half a second, and half-blown the fuse (fusible link) sorry for being such a windbag, i cant express my ideas succinctly sometimes.. but i wanna help you get your car running. its not hard :- ) and you get such a feeling of satisfaction when you do it yourself... :clap: we can go from there once those questions are answered. good luck!

it sounds like you took it half apart, and that relieved a short that was occurring in one of the wires you touched. inspect every MM of every wire you exposed. I have also had all my dash lights, and my tail lights, and my front running lights (anything switched on with the parking/tail lights but NOT the headlights) shorted by imporper stereo installation.... drove from here to miami and back like that in my Geo once without knowing it. (well, not knowing my taillights were out) so if you have this problem after a stereo install, you probably used the wrong wire for a ground... but that comment was just put in ther for anyone who clisk this thread looking for answers of their own.

Look... what better way to keep Christine there in line than to show her exactly what COULD happen to her?!??? any cursed car that was brought back to life using a vehicle like that brat for a crane, would HAVE to know that its evil days were over, and that these weird folks werent gonna hold no truck with no funny business..... "That's it Christine!!! One More Murder and we start hammering at the cinderblocks!! you want us to cut your roof off and mount the crane inside of YOU!??!?" :banana: :banana:

Okay.. let me take this opportunity to apologize. I've had an abcessed tooth (minor) for the past few days, and my heads been a little wobbly... So I've been posting left and right, and making ignorant mistakes in my reading comprehension, and my memory.. (for instance, i failed to pay attention to the fact that Phiz was talking about a brat, and I a GL10...) just goes to show you that even at a low dose, them narcotics catch up to you eventually... I hope i havent confused anyone too bad, or made anyone scratch their heads and wonder if i used to eat paint chips....

thanks goodness for old harbor freight!

GD summed it up. in order to be certain of the timing, it is best to remove the belts, and reset the valve timing first.. and once you have the belts on, everythings 180 apart the way it needs to be (if you dont know the procedure on installing timing belts, make sure you look it up on the forum, and read about it) then its time to set the distributor timing. changing things based on the timing with the green wire unplugged shouldnt hurt anything, (i dont think) but its useless... but you need to do this process in the right order so you know for certain that valve timing is correct, then distributor timing.. then it becomes a quality of spark or a fuel/compression issue.

just another of the 234,678,546.8 projects i never got around to in five years of daily driving my Z.. and two years of struggling to stay employed AND keep the soob on the road :-\ has anyone ever found a good source for a transplanted light for the entire engine bay at once?? i know alot of cars have them mounted on the underside of the hood, but only tonight began to think of finding a donor car for some sort of setup like that, to transplant onto ANY car that doesnt already have it... its just a matter of finding a switch thats easy to fit onto the soob, i guess.. but ive never looked at one. next JY trip, right?

@#%^%^ i just had that one dispelled for me by a book i was reading. i grew up thinking that the length of a line drawn up one sidewall, across the tread, and down the other, was the measurement of the first number. my bad on the brain fart.

yah i like it.. but my point was my bitter disappointment that he answered a rnadom question that bubbled to the top of my brain tonight, with an answer ive known about for decades. im only 25, there arent many things ive known for decades.

possibly one of my boneheaded ignorant suggestions.. and i suppose it might be a band-aid style fix, but since it hasnt been mentioned i will open my big mouth.. what about one of those fancypants catch-cans? are you more concerned about finding the issue causing the oil than the oil itself?

probably should change the battery too.

youre connecting the green plug under the hood when checking your timing, right?

wow this is like three or four subjects ive been thinking of tonight, by myself, that have been addressed in posts on this forum.. this is getting creepy. i dont think i ever bled the MC, and i dont know if i bled the brakes in "proper" order or not.. but ive been pumping once or twice for two years now, wwithout it getting better or worse... thru brake jobs, etc... another must do.

i agree with phizinza. not only that, but its a three speed versus a five speed!! that, and i hate thinking about all the weight of my TC spinning up every time i hit my gas....

awesome, had that idea myself. must look into it. thanks for the motivation.

CURSE YOU GD!!! just tonight i thought, "you know, i really need an under-hood light here..." and you make a post about it!! i click, eagerly wondering what youve found... and its just the same old zcar underhood inspection lamp i grew up using... sorry, but thats one of the first semi-unique or "cool" engineering ideas i ever knew.. (ie, the third eye headlight sorta thing) I remember being four years old and asking my dad about it and him telling me how unusual it was.. but to be honest, its not as useful as a good overhead engine bay light. it frequently fails to ground itself internally, and you have to hold the housing of the light against a chassis ground.. that, or it always needs to be held against chassis ground. either some of them get like that, or some of them are different, ive never looked into it too much, but its there on any Zcar from 1970-1983. if it had an inline six, L-series motor, (240 260 280Z, 280ZX) it had one of those. they ARE very useful, just often not too bright.. plus i think the one on MY zcar rather intelligently got the lens painted over, so its a bit dim, heh....