daeron

well you know it just happens sometimes when someone gets to searching through a bunch of threads.. and reading them all.. and finally decides to have his two bits in on the subject!! its a brain fart, i have come SOO close to posting in some old threads i read while searching.... but it seems to mostly happen to new users. thats my theory, anyhow.

the important thing is to ensure a good ground connection between the radiator and the car's electrical system. you could ground the radiator to the chassis, you could ground the radiator to the battery negative terminal.. or both. the stock wire is there to connect the radiator to chassis ground, so if you just use one of the fan or shroud mounting bolts for the radiator end of it, you are doing exactly what it did on the old radiator. try and find some bare metal on the radiator though, even if you have to find a file or some sort of sandpaper and make one.. paint is an insulator and while the bolt is going thru threads, the better the ground is, the better... EDIT OH GOD see i went and did it!! i didnt even notice it was an old thread on this one, but that gl killer character brought it up. see what i meant in the other 3 yr old thread? its an easy brainfart, more common to newer users....

awesome, i nabbed one out at the junkyard and its awaiting some nice semi gloss black paint.. it also is gonna take some retrofitment, but mainly just buying some little screw retainer clips to pop into the metal tabs on the car. if you degreased the coil so thoroughly, then I dont think youre going to increase good airflow to the radiator that much. have you managed a good chemical flush of the rad to make sure the passagemways are as clear as possible? i mean, do you really have problems with it or are you just making the car a bit more "ideal" so to speak? ive often thought the silly looking car would benefit immensely from an air dam of sorts, to give it more of a jawline. such an airdam would also increase the area you could use to deflect wind into the radiator.. as far as I understand aerodynamics, thats about the only effective way of routing much more air to the radiator. you use the AC i take it? it DOES go without saying that you degreased the condensor coil too, right?????

it has difficulty rolling in neutral? if thats the case then you can PROBABLY rule out clogged catalytic converter

youve hit d-check or u-check mode or whatever its called when you check for codes using the green connectors and not the read memory ones, right? ive never had a check engine light in my cars life, but i pulled a TPS, a CAS, an O2 sensor, and three tranny switch codes in the "diagnostic" mode that never peeped in run or read memory mode. and besides.. ive heard people talking about fuel injected Zs that were sitting in a yard or a barn for 10 years.. they walked up to the car, systematically tested each component in the FI and tweaked or replaced until they got nothing but proper readings, and the car fired right up and ideld fine on the first shot. even without codes, check each component for proper function, and if one of them is having a wire issue then it at LEAST stands a 50-60% chance of catching it, especially if the plug boots are in good shape, and you can peel them back to check function with they key in the on position.

i switched over to 185-70s and there was a dramatic difference in handling. clicky for tirerack.com's cheapest, and best wet performing 185-70 at 34 bucks apiece, plus shipping. i live in florida so snow is no concern to me.

one tip that doesnt always make it into the timing belt threads is that, sometimes the knurled nut that is captured inside the rear timing belt cover, trips its plastic carriage loose and spins inside there. when that happens, you have to pry or punch the bolt and nut out of the rear timing cover to get it off. yes, im saying to in a sense destroy the rear timing belt cover. if you opt to put them back on (its a wash, but if you dont think youre going back in there anytime soon, then the compromise is to re attach the cover, using zip ties that snip off instead of bolts that may be intact or not...) Also, go to the top right corner of the screen. four words, side by side.. Home, Forum, USRM, and Photos.. USRM == Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual. browse thru that, its one of your new best friends. good luck

bgd: i found a "checkerboard" style grille in one of my local junkyards on an 86 ea-82.. you used to have an 87 DL, did it have the same style grille as your loyale or was it like the checker one? it looks to me like the checker lets more air flow thru... also, here is a good suggestion.. remove the radiator and spray it down with concentrated simple green. powerful yet safe degreaser. makes a WORLD of difference. 160K worth of road grime is an EXTREMELY effective insulator.. and if you have any doubts, take the rad out and hold it up to the sunlight. see how much you can see. then you will know how futile adding air flow holes to your bumper would have been. i smoke cigarettes inside, live RIGHT in the armpit of the airport, and have a cat.. and my house has window unit ACs. i have to pull mine out 3 times a year and clean all the crap out of the coil, even using a filter. it is MIND boggling how much difference it can make. plus, then people will think you did it for "weight reduction," LOL. I saw a honda civic today that had large holes drilled thru the plastic bumper skin.. to reveal the solid metal bumper bar underneath the "weight reduction look?"

ogiesdad: check the for sale forum.. i know theres a gl10 turbo in richmond VA that needs headgaskets and a tranny, and the guy has new HG and a tranny, for i think 500 bucks. i REALLY want to buy the car myself but add at LEAST a $400 tow job onto that to get it to sofla.. aint happening any time soon. sorry to threadjack, but i thought id help two different members of the forum. EDIT heres a link to the ad http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54255

my thoughts exactly as far as what to look out for... ive seen one RHD legacy and thought it was the bee's knees, man...almost literally!! i mean, how often do you see the bee's knees???!!? headgaskets wouldnt bother me... its HEADS that would frighten me off. what do you think the odds are that i could re-sell it if i get into a headgasket job and need to replace the cylinder heads?? i mean, some soob freak would have to take it for 100 bucks with a thorough engine diagnosis, and the disassembly already done, wouldnt they? eh, i guess worst case scenario i have to source heads on the internet. since i may have lost my job last night, it MAY be moot point anyhow.. but alot still depends on his answers to questions about 5spd and 4wd, and the AC. i am NOT buying a car with an automatic transmission. my GL10 has one but it was free. i hate having my shift control tied to my throttle control, and i wont manually shift the gears... ive seen too many people go thru trannys like that, coincidental or not.

bgd- the NA engine may well not make enough power to top your theoretical driveline all the way out.... it IS only 84 HP maximum stock.. sure its got a peak torque of 110 or something, but thats at 2000 RPM. you would certainly attain a higher speed than i did easily.. but the engine WILL reach a point where it will refuse to gain speed, if you gear it steep enough.it takes power to make inertia, the more inertia you want the more power you need.. and youve got to run dry at some point. not trying to deflate your aim or anything, by any means.. the steeper gearing you install, the higher your top end will be, no doubt... BUT you may top out your speed before youve topped out your RPMs. you get my point? you could put a 3.0 final drive box into the car, but you will NEVER make it to 200 mph with only 84/11 hp/torque...

okay folks, ive shot this guy an email now with a couple questions, but this car is less than a hundred miles from me. Im driving an 87 GL10 and wouldnt really think too much about buying a legacy, but this price is RIGHT, and so is the drivers seat thats right its a mail carrier edition.. right hand drive, baby!! any info on these guys? were they all _______?<--- fill in the blank.. im wanting 5spd, hoping for 4wd.. and hoping for AC. here is the craigslist ad in question.. im crossin my fingers, if i can come up with this cash in short order and enough question have the right answers.. HMMMMMM.... it might be time to abandon the EA-82 after all... as faithful as its been....just a little short on the "cool" factor. if i am thinking more seriously about it in 24 hrs and might end up looking at it, what to check for? no urgent replies needed on that, as i can search before going, but comments always welcome :- )

if you cant lay it down, you could try standing it up and supporting it with wood braces, then tying it all down... dont own a brat and havent seen one in some time, so I may not be visualizing very well.. also never transported a motorcycle before, so i may not be grokking the issue in fullness. in other words, if my comment is dumb, ignore me and smile.

87 GL10 2wd 3at with stock sized tires and 130K on the odo did 102 on alligator alley.. loooong flat causeway built across the glades from ft lauderdale on the east coast of florida, to naples on the west coast of florida. flat as a board. the reading is off of a digidash, but ive never had any cause to doubt the speedo and i also got pulled for 78 in a 70 about ten miles later and he paced me.. and the speedo said 78 so it was accurate that high. IIRC, the tach was registering just under 5K.. i know i thought i had a few more i could go, but i also know i didnt want to go much higher. 102 was over a hundred, enough that i felt it had been achieved regardless of minor speedo inaccuracy.

bump to an old thread, this is a REALLY neat fab project that this guy is doing.. I just read all about it and figured i would bump his original thread to show to any users who werent aware of the project already. its impressive, to say the least.

i read that entire thread at the merkur forum.. i have to say, nice project, and nice work!!! how close of a math, visually, is the tail end of the brat and the tail end of the P100 you are trying to replicate?? make sure you post a thread here with at least links to the thread over there when you get it finished...

and theres no limit necessarily to what MAY fit in place of the stock subaru unit... hitachi apparently used this mounting ear size on a number of vehicles as i have found guys in the Zcar forums that used up to 125 amp alternators from later maximas and pathfinders in their Zcars.. so with a little research (go to rock auto, or any parts store website and they list what amperage the lalt is and give you a photo to see if it "looks" right) and junkyard luck, you can go out to the yard, find an appropriate vehicle, yank the alternator, find a soob like yours, and test-fit it. as with ANY alternator swap, this is going to be much simpler with an outboard mounted alternator. i DO know that the casing is a larger diameter on the maxima alternator i have, as i cannot move it through its range of adjustment on my Z.. my radiator piping gets in the way. Im trying to figure out my problem there, but since the alt i have bolts into the soob anyhow even if i need a different maxima alternator for the Z, im happy. BUT the casing on the soob alt and the Z alt are the same diameter, the rear casing may be the only real difference. so beware, it IS physically larger, but it DOES fit. I mentioned in my other thread that i cant slip the belt onto the pulley with the top pivot bolt in.. i have to slip the belt on before inserting the pin bolt to get it to fit. so, it DOES make a belt installation a TINY bit more complex as the alternator bolts have to be fully removed to slip a new belt on. sue me

thats just beautiful... but why no headlights? theyve got to come in handy...

worthless reply, but i have read nothing about any non-periodic flashing of the O2 monitor light. have you methodically tested the FI components as its laid out in the FSM? I talked a bit about trying to put together a writeup on a SPFI checkup that would verify proper function of all components.. but thats basically already in the FSM.. i still think i might do a HTKYSA style ripoff of it to post here in the USRM so all that info gets linked to there, but as labrious a process as it is, it is the ONLY way for you to know everything is working right.. and its a necessary step before really being able to look yourself in the mirror and say "I can't figure this out."

your talk about feeling resistance to acceleration makes me think the catalytic converter might be plugged. the cat is essentially a porcelain honeycomb that "straightens out" the flow of the exhaust air... it also, catalytically, raises the temp to burn off any unburned fuel, which has the effect of cleaner emissions. its a very fine honeycomb, and sometimes they get clogged with carbon buildup, or get brittle and break. my point is, it is VERY easy for the to get physically restricted if something goes wrong. it shouldnt be too much for an exhaust shop to replace it, but you might look into going down there and removing it, and sticking a large screwdriver in there and pounding on the end, and twisting it around, and smash up the honeycomb material and remove it.. i dont know if theres a straight shot at the body thru the exhaust pipe anywhere, but it may be worth a shot. this IS against most laws, as it essentially turns your cat into an expansion box that does nothing for emissions and it may also make your exhaust louder.. but to test the theory, you could certainly remove the exhaust. if you can find a way to disconnect it, or remove a section of pipe without making anything too loose to drive, you could see.. plus, i believe any subaru owner needs to hear their engine un-muffled at least once :- )

yah that was bad... but back on-topic, if you have replaced the tei-rod ends and havent had it professionally aligned, it CAN produce the effect of changing you camber, which is the odd angling effect you are describing on your wheels. when the car sits, parked with the steering wheel dead centered, both wheels should have a slight "toe-in" at the front. this is changed by adjusting the length that the tie-rod end is screwed onto the tie-rod. This is the only alignment aspect that can be changed on the front axle of an ea-82, or at least the loyale series. What you are describing is the camber, which is only capable of being changed by damaged componentry.. BUT severely out of whack toe-in can also have the effect of changing the camber of the wheels. I found this out changing the tierod ends on my GL10, but i had the opposite issue.. tops of wheels were pointed in. my problem was excessive toe-out, maybe yours is toed in too far on both sides? you DEFINITELY need a professional alignment after changing the tie-rod ends, and i assume from what you said that you have. if not, then i guess bent tie rod ends would cause toe-in.. and could change the camber (theoretically) check into it.

yah i was thinking to ask if you had used any sort of stethoscope to confirm where the noise is coming from. you mentioned clutch problems; did you change the clutch and re-use a throwout bearing? did you ever see the throwout bearing? crazy weird idea that just popped into my head as i went to hit the post button.... the FLYWHEEL bolts couldnt be loose could they?!??!?

I second that motion!!!

it might help (i dont know if you have all plugs needed) but the SPFI also used a 4 wire TPS, so you can get that plug off any SPFI unit in the boneyard

personally, I think it was nice of you to give in and give her the extra fifty bucks.. but i almost certainly would have done the same. good deal man, good luck with the car.