daeron

man this ones gonna bug me..... i cant swap a proper pulley onto it, for lack of one!!! maybe if i hit a parts store they could help me... hmm. and now, how do i tighten the other one back on there without air tools to give me the whack i need?? ah well, just tighten so they can test it i suppose. BTW i pulled the datsun alt, and its practically identical.

Arrrrr!!!!!

i just keep shouting, "Bring on the 'Canes and drive out the immigants!!!!" and im not talking about foreign nationals here, i mean some of the 6 million excess people (mostly from "up north," go figure as the whole country is "up north") we have living off of the minimal amount of water contained within the aquifers that are the capacitor to mediate envirnmental change thru the everglades.... and its a passive hatred, really.. living down here its not like anyone can socialize WHATSOEVER without encountering transplants of 5, 10, 20 years all over the place. My grandparents moved down here during the depression, before there was AC and mosquito and flood control.. so my familys paid our dues to live here. please forgive some righteous indignation on behalf of Mother Nature from yours truly.

in retrospect, when i put my new craftsman floor jack in there with the big case it came in.. the warping of the stock unit is just fine, if its turned upside down:lol: the lack is just about an inch too high to fit perfectly. the plexiglas is a good idea though, i DO have some of that.. and go read your frost advisory thread. it doesnt get too cold where I live. THANK the GULFSTREAM....

what octane do you use?? your noise might be "pinging," i had never heard it until i got the soob... when i told my brother it ran better on high test (hes the ASE mechanic who owned the car before I) he about smacked me in the head and told me, "I told you that, dummy!" if you use 87, try 93. i know it hurts, but I just had to do it, too. i bet it helps. supposedly, if you know more than I do, you can also eliminate pinging thru timing adjustment.. but i dont know how to do that. you need to know alot about ignition to do that properly, and thats my biggest hole left :- )

its definitely the same connectors, they might not be next to the fuel filter. (thats right in front of the drivers face, in the extreme rear drivers side of the engine bay) they might be under the dash. go to the USRM and look thru that for the procedure, but hes posted your wires.

oops, didnt tell you that part over in the mileage thread. no problems retarting, just put it together and turn the key on.. let it sit on for a few seconds before you crank it, it helps a little.. and be willing to crank a bit longer than usual. (duh) Other than that, its fine. no priming needed, nothing. plug and play.

well, to your credit it DOES sound like you might know what youre doing so maybe some pictures are in order?? it sounds like one of you is adamantly saying the port is there, and the other saying its not but im 99% sure i could drill it in... one of you i think may be right, but it would take some pictures of the weber that needs the port to be certain. is there any way that you can get a good foto of the part of the carb in question?? maybe you arent seeing what you are looking for because youre not looking in quite the right place? picture == 1000 words

no tricks, just disable the fuel pump, cut the car on and run it till it dies. that eliminates fuel pressure. its so big because its FI, so its a high pressure system, about 22 psi after the pressure regulator, something in the range of 35-50 before that.. the regulator shunts any excess pressure back into the tank. but it needs to be that big. as you are removing the first hose, watch your eyes. fuel almost always sprays out no matter HOW well i "de-pressurize" the system when i do these things, just a word of advice. the seafoam is no "magic fix," its a petroleum distillate very similar to products used in auto shops when they do a "engine top end cleaning..." just good stuff all around. Fuel injector/carb cleaner additive is usually good stuff too.. those products are solvents, designed to free crap up and clear it out. the only way they could harm is by potentially causing or aggravating a leak. the car might not run so hot right when you put it in, theorteically, but that would be caused by the dissolution, flow-thru, and burnoff of gunk more than anything else. I only mentioned the lucas stuff because i have no experience pouring seafoam straight into my tank.. yet...

OKAY...... heres the setup. I was talking to a friend of mine this AM about his water pump, and I wound up looking up part prices online. at advance auto part's website, i somehow inadvertently clicked on the laternator link while the website was still set on parts for his 86 nissan maxima. I noticed it said 90 amp alternator, so on a whim i clicked on the image. (I also have a 1975 datsun 280Z, which currently has a 50 amp alternator in it, no pun intended.) It looked right, for either car. Alternator was the second thing i had to replace on this car and my first thought was "damn, that looks JUST like the one out of my datsun..." SO i went to the junkyard, yanked one out, went over to an EA-82 and... PRESTO!! it fits!!! it fits GREAT!!! the only snags i noticed were simple enough... A it has a different pulley on it. the pulley, however, seems to line straight up when bolted into the soob. should be a simple swap but i didnt have tools to remove a spare pulley in the boneyard. Im going to try pulling my datsun alternator to see... B the housing of the laternator only allows for so much slack in the belt adjustment.. the soob i used had some adjustment space left on the belt, so it wasnt TOTALLY stretched but it didnt look too new either... however, it was with the grooved pulley and not the v-belt pulley, and if i popped the belt over the pulley before fitting either the top "pin" bolt or the bottom "clincher" bolt it fit great. shouldnt have any problems tightening at all. Its an internally regulated alternator, its obvious which of the two wires on the plug need to go to which two on the soob.. the charging lug and the ground lug on the maxima harness each had two heavy gauge wires running to it.. maybe splice one onto the stock charging wire and one straight to battery?? or just replace the high current wire with a single wire setup?? this is my first alternator conversion ive discovered, so I am a little cautious of the particulars before I dive into actually bolting onto my soob.. but thats right, right????? i dont have ANY high power equipment on the soob, the alternator is NOT destined to stay there, but who knows... when i get around to doing my Zcar maybe I will have cash to drop then and there for a nice reman one and WILL keep it in the soob..... but the stock charging wire should be sufficient given a TOTAL lack of any other current draw, right? i KNOW this one is gonna get a good hit... this is a SIMPLE bolt-on conversion to a higher amperage alternator! no GM big unit to fit in or nothing. the maxima alternator doesnt have the external fan the soob does.. that shouldn't be a problem, should it?????? I also noticed that volkswagen alternators have an interesting "set-back" type of pulley on them... it MIGHT come in handy for any retrofitments anyone may have to make int he future. Junkyard dogs, check that one out. Oh, and ive been gabbing about realys, plugs, and a bracket out of a BMW... the bracket has a cover that i nabbed today. all because i was helping a friend with his car, and needed a front turnsignal lens because i bashed mine yesterday (dont ask) one AWESOME day at the boneyard!!!!! :banana: :headbang:

sorry, 'puter was acting weird.

okay.. the old pressboard thing is too warped to be ove service much longer, but i dont have any cash to waste on it and i want to replace it. what has anyone else used that they found somewhere for free?? SOMEONE must have done this on the cheap like me by now.. im sick and tired of it...

Davalos: add front wheel alignment to your list. if the tires arent pointing in the right direction, they will scrub, which will decrease tire life AND increase resistance on the driveline.. and lower mileage. you might also want to replace your o2 sensor (just a swag) and if you are feeling motivated, try checking the calibration of your TPS.. its a simple procedure if you have a good 8 inch phillips screwdriver and a digital multimeter. I added alligator clips on the probes of my multimeter specifically for this job, it simplifies things.. but its not necessary. shoot me a PM and i can email you a pdf file on how to do it, if youre interested. I can't say that it will make much difference, BUT i just changed mine and drove for two weeks before i could properly calibrate it.. and while i havent seen the mileage with it proper yet, it drives MUCH better. BTW i have a friend who told me he had a 5 speed soob in the 80s.. bought it new, loved it so much, and the gas mileage (that was back when he could remember pre-'72 prices and still winced at paying 0.85-1.00 a gallon once in a while) was so great that he got another for his wife.. but that one was an auto. he said they were about 5mpg different. I will have to ask him if they were OHC or OHV. that would be the simplest way to determine EA81 vs EA82, right? he's no soob guy, not even a car guy really but hes not ignorant either... Meanwhile, a compression test would let you know if you were down on power on any cylinders... you could also get some seafoam to suck up into a vacuum line to help clean out any carbon deposits from inside your engine.. and add some to the gas tank, or get some lucas fuel injector cleaner. ive had major economy improvements from using that in the past... but that was only a one-time thing. doing it on my soob didnt help as much the first time, but its always good.. when i used the lucas on my Z for the first time it gave me about a 15% increase in range on a 16 gallon tank...

naturally, thats the exact stuff i had in the backseat of my car that i went to grab, only to find the can totally depressurized.. so I just used the deepcreep. while im posting on this thread, all the oily gunk i found in my TB when i removed the boot is a result of poor PCV valves, right? its not bad at all, just a little dark brown residue on the clean aluminum surface.

two great things about living in florida.. no hills to climb to worry about overheating (someone just blew a 2nd HG in 6 months on a hill, i forget who) and no real winter. the only drawback to that is every "winter" i look like a homeless person because i am too cheap to buy a couple of nice sweaters and a jacket.. i make the one or two old sweatshirts and the ridiculously out of style windbreaker jacket i have be "good enough for another year" EVERY time "winter" comes around... just too cheap to sheel out so much cash for a garment that gets MAYBE three months of occasional use... usually about a month solid of needing a sweater, and then about six to eight weeks on either end of january where a sweater is likely to be needed, but occasionally not. obviously more of the "not" days in march and november than february and december, but thats about it. january is usually solid cold. of course, even then we get the odd 75 degree day :- ) just another day in paradise. as for the hurricanes, i love them.. have since i was a little boy. I run around outside for brief spells whenever we get a storm.. if its nighttime then its clothing optional,

if you want to install them with a manual switch, ive found a great junkyard source of relay, relay brackets, and relay wires.. BMWs and VW/audis have these bosch/hella type relays that are awesome, and some bmw 3-series have a small slide on bracket that holds three of the relay plugs... the wire terminals can even be removed from the plug body and swapped with wires from another plug body that are more appropriate in size/number/color/nation of origin/current phase of the moon.... but they're great for any project that involves a switch, and high current :- ) theyre also rated by amperage on the outside where most relays in the JY in cars arent, they just get a part number... some say 12VDC, big help:rolleyes:

holy cow, youre doing that???!!! cool, good luck. my dad had to install a new engine in his 89 XT6 back in 1991... imagine how much it cost, yech... i was discussing something a thread on the forum here where northwet was talking about the flow of water thru the EA-82, and that the er27 is almost literally nothing more than two more cylinders on it.. and he said when his blew it seemed to run out of coolant on the passenger side (autopsy observation) it only blew because we got a bad case of motor oil. motor in the subaru blew, motor in the lawn tractor blew, and the 351 windsor in the fordE-150 my mom had blew all in one month. good times, that. well, captain off-topic salutes your project, youve got more subaru motivation than I!

somehow i missed phiz's comment about the fiat, thats the exact same.. cannot lock it if its not shut. that way, youre either inside, or using the key. I dont think theres any way possible to modify this, and i know door lock/latch mechanisms pretty darned well.. but it MAY be possible. If i ever get around to it, I will compare the datsun and soob setups... but that requires disassembly and inspection of one of my only four soob doors, all of which get used often (ie, on my car...)

gd-- sometimes bad advice can be mistaken as bad luck, too.. everything that we say is nowhere near as loud as who knows what may be being told to him by well-meaning people he knows out in that "real world" thing I keep hearing so much about... but youre right. calm down, and analyze carefully. you have fed us insufficient data, and nothing adds up. and, most of the "fixit" chemicals are crap, he's right. any stop leak is a dont touch. there is no substitute for proper long term care, and if your car did not receive that before you got it... join the club. speaking of which, has anyone ever bought a car with a mystery PO (not from someone you know) and actually been PLEASED at something they had done? everyone has stories of maintenance records, and thats great.. but has anyone found any "kustomizations" from a previous owner that were actually beneficial or positive?

no hate. I was just whining... thats all. ive been waiting for a car with a trans to show up, and its out there now... i already got the trunklid and the TPS off of it, I would love to get the car and frankenstein mine into it or something.... but it aint gonna happen right now! ob-la-di.

sorry, i hate you... i have a head gasket coming up very soon myself, and i want to ditch the three speed badly... but i do not have the cash and/or time to do so right now good luck with everything, wish i could be help instead of kibbitz

I personally have a thin carpet on the bottom.. and thats about it. I have seen some cars with the like, inch-thick watter sogging foam stuff.. but i think its probably one of those things that varied from year to year.. like headliners.. and steering wheels (to a degree) btw i'd like to take thisopportunity to thank the pleiades for the fact that i have my steering wheel... i dont have a pic handy, but its got the little trapezoidal "spokes" at the ~4:30 and~7:30 positions, along with little thumb tabs at about 10 and 2 on the wheel... and i LOVE it, its the exact kind of steering wheel I like... except instead of two more arms at 10 and 2, its just little nubs that you can slide right past... but if you want to hold tight, its easy.... that, and i have factory cruise. so There!! :-p

did you use the carpet padding underneath??? THAT would certainly make things a little quieter.....like wrapping your car in a giant down comforter.. thats a good idea though, not something I would have thought of.... could make for some interesting themes in the vehicle too.. think like, hotel hallway patterned carepting... or the predictable zebra stripes/leopard print (i actually have leopard print blankets stapled to the walls all in my room.. not of my design but its a LONG story, it was a friends room and she did it when she was a teenager.. and now shes moved out and i rent from her dad. the walls need to be re-boarded, or something... so its there. dont ask) but then there is always the nursery look.. a nice, deep shag in some dark brown color.. the possibilities are endless.. just to be clear i dont want to sound mocking.. i DO think it was a good idea.. it just leads to some humourous thoughts, thats all

eagerly awaiting your response. I pulled my own MAF today thinking of this thread, and was surprised to see the two hot wires off in that tiny chamber on the side... obviously someone wasnt paying a great deal of attention when he read how his MAF was designed. i thought they were stretched across the whole length.... those things are TINY!!!! i held mine up to the sun, (sorta) and got a good silhouette of my wires.. they seemed clear as could be, no oil residue or anything in the intake until after PCV tubing starts to come in... but since all I had was a can of seafoam deepcreep anyhow, I used that to blast it out.. no noticable difference here. if i see a good fine silhouette of two tiny wires, are they liable to be dirty enough to warrant additional cleaning? obviously if GD discovers much difference between the brakleen and this stuff that makes a huge statement right there.. we shall see.

spfi 87 GL-10, NA 3AT 2WD, i deliver pizzas and drive like a bat out of hell.. with occasional AC use im seeing about 23mpg.. thats all city. before i fixed the AC i had a steady 25 mpg city. I was amazed at how much gas it eats using it as little as i do. However, i have a leaking head gasket, and want to check my timing. also may have O2 sensor and CAS issues, have to recheck codes. these figures are from before a new (junkyard) TPS was installed and calibrated (installed 11 days ago, calibrated today, )