daeron

there are people who can do that for free? i thought it was a service available to anyone who wanted to pay....

get a new timing belt for the other side too.. "stop cutting corners" timing belts are the LAST place to do so.... and I am a cheap bugger myself. one new timing belt is just a guarantee that in the future, you will be doing this all again. do you want another headache in six months when the drivers side belt breaks? and who knows how stretched it may be. never replace timing belts one at a time. that would be like replacing one headgasket, one brake pad, or one piston ring.

ROTFLMAO okay here.. sorry for the juvenile abbreviation but.... okay, take a brat.. or a justy.. and manage to retrofit this motor you are talking about. Go ahead and schwimmwagen it, so shes a car and a boat. While youre at it, build some folding wings into the bed, and a propeller assembly in the front, and make a land air and sea subaru. you would be famous. youd wind up with a crappy cable TV series. it would pay for itself! (almost)

(okay, im being humorous and not a jerk here) Ill cast one vote for not having to tear the motor apart in six months to repair the oil leak/tensioner bearing/t-belt/cam carrier o ring/etc etc etc etc. there is about 2-4 hours of work involved in doing the water pump that is simply disassembly that would be needed to perform any of these other, routine high mileage maintenance items. (maybe less for someone who has done it three or four times, but realistically, first timer, 2-4 hours) when you do a tune-up, you dont install new plugs, pull the cap, replace the rotor, and use the same cap and wires, do you? not every time, anyhow. this job is at least fifteen or twenty times more intense than that (its not hard, but you ARE getting about up to your wrists in your engine, as opposed to dabbing your fingers with some oil) the standard mechanic's rule of thumb is: water pump, front crank seal, camshaft seals, timing belts. things like tensioners vary from vehicle to vehicle, but none of these parts are made to last forever. there are different seals on different engines that need to be re-done, but the golden rule is, once you take the front covers off, replace everything you can see down there. its a matter of spending an extra hour while you are already wrist-deep, or taking the time later to get wrist-deep again. my knowledge of the motor isnt encyclopedic enough yet for me to add any specific statement about what needs to be done.. go with the suggestions above. I just couldnt read that and look away:lol: and i truly meant no offense, Sweet82... but you kinda baited me into it. :-p it IS also the OHC ea82, with timing belts etc which IS a more complex motor than the pushrod ea81 youre talking about, so I will give you that. alot less to do when there are no timing belts or camshafts to seal so its not like we are even talking apples to apples here. in a way it wouldn't be fair to MTSuby to let the statement go unchecked, yanno?

it sounds to me like the vacuum operated ones are the pushbutton "on demand" 4wd with no center diff, whereas the lever style is going to be your dual range. i think it was GD who said it in another thread.. give me a nice solid lever to pull any day... as for pulling the vacuum, im fairly certain that the transmissions use the same vacuum accumulator canister thats just in front of the passenger at the rear of the engine bay. that is what is used for the AC controls. I envy you, you bugger.. nixing my 3at is simply not a project i can commit to right now. :- ( i would be interested in hearing a final cost on your project though, for my own future reference. its alot wasier if i ask you ahead of time, now, and youre thinking about it before the money is all spent. my alternative would be to post a thread that might get three or four replies as vague as the respective user's memory of their swap, however long ago that was :- )

this forum helps keep me (and im sure others) sane in a world full of human beings that have lost their love for life. I hate to wax philosphical and all, but i really was overjoyed to find this community grown up around these cars. Ive said it before, when i had first joined. Its like all the good people who used to be VW ppl (some of the most ingenious mechanics ive ever known, even jesse james said it on monster garage) just sorta went japanese water cooled, and became soob nuts. This entire community is probably more akin to me, as far as mindset, than just about any other family, community, or network ive been a part of. I haven't had any tangible experiences, beyond help from and to people on this forum in the form of textual advice, etc... (ie, no parts trading hands, yet at least) but I will say that theres a pile of NOS soob stuff that i believe is too old for my use (i think its ea81 stuff) buried in my uncles shop somewhere. I am champing at the bit to get to it all, photograph and catalog it, and sell it here. not for the profit, they will be priced to sell (although my uncle HAS been paying rent to store it for some time now, and some return would be nice) I want to sell it more to give people out there brand new distributors, wiper motor, etc etc. i cant wait to give myself some positive karma in this group, just because I feel I owe it already. +1 for the entire forum, I only wish i had some cash to donate since i use so many of the system resources on whatever server the site is hosted on (notice how many threads you see with my name as the last poster? i thought some of you might have)

not to be rude, but... I saw no fan in the photos, and was wondering on that point, hence my question, "what do they do as far as airflow on the front of the car when dynotesting?" thank you for clearing that up and after your comment about him already having a hoodscoop, i looked back at the photos posted in the thread and realized that the only head on view was from such a low angle that any hood scoop would be obscured.. I guess i failed to notice one and assumed there was none, oops.

My little brother made some solid motor/trans mounts on his CRX out of his old destroyed ones, and something simliar to that. they work GREAT.....as long as you understand it means major vibrations will be transmitted to the car, but thats standard with solid or poly bushings....

+1 i blame the heisenberg uncertainty principle. who knows why, but if you do what GD said you know its timed correct. if it still doesnt work, update.

me too. that rattling drove me nuts for MONTHS. and the metaphorical duct tape is ready. if needs be :-p

around town here, there is someone with a final generation GM station wagon descended from that.. it looks like about a 93 caprice (IE BFChevy, the competitor to the crown vic) but the guy has been patiently, and BEAUTIFULLY making it into a real woody station wagon. i mean, with high cost 1x4s from home depot. REAL classy job too, but its obviously like either a carpenter or an amateur, and NOT a car guy... i cant wait until i see it finished. I was seeing it fairly often last year, and last i saw it was all together but unfinished. on another note, ACK what nasty fatbodies those things are!!! i will never understand how it only took us 20 years to go from station wagon, to minivan, to SUV, back to station wagon errrr sport compact wagon utility vehicle... even tho i know soob is partially responsible for blurring the line. the outback and forester have long been two of the only "wagons" i could care less about..... and dont tell me im using the term wagon wrong. an H2 is a station wagon. a ford explorer is a station wagon. any of those yuppiemobiles are station wagons. four doors and a hatch? station wagon. two doors and a hatch? hatchback. its only a truck if its got a bed. and now we have some of those that arent even really "trucks" (crucks like the brat, el camino, and baja are of COURSE in a TOTALLY other category much higher up the "cool" totem pole)

no offense gene, because I would have been no better off than you in this situation.... but this thread has had me chuckling since the beginning, simply because i could relate to your difficulty. this is why some of us start getting anal retentive about people using "sloppy talk"

anyone ever heard of coates engineering? they make new cylinder heads for your cars that use rotating journals instead of sprung valves... more in depth explanation.. instead of a valve seat in the cylinder head, imagine a semicircular groove, with a rounded endge. the "camshaft" is a single piece that replaces the original camshaft and the valves, lifters, etc etc. on this shaft there are donuts that ride in each of the valve grooves. the valve grooves are notched with a hole into the combustion chamber, and the "donuts" on the shaft are also notched, providing the opening and closing needed. the advantage is that without a typical valvetrain, your cylinder head is no longer a limiting factor in your RPM. i dunno, the memory just bubbled up to the surface in my head when i started thinking about "unlimited money." the rest of the motor would have to be re-engineered (im talkin about my ea82) to actually productively make power up to 10,000RPM but holy freakin crap!!!!!

Numbchux: Kosher, i try to keep anything like that posted with a disclaimer that im no sage myself. I know some things.. some of them, i am even certain of.

sounds alot like ratshack I know what you mean though. love to hate it.

okay you know what?? UNlimited cash, strike that. I would definitely be building me the lemming's GL-10 STI, but i would be making fender flares, and more importantly an AIR DAM!!!!! custom body panels would be my number one originality contribution to this thread. this car needs a jawbone like nodoby's business! if it had one, it would make the ENTIRE front end go from goofy looking and overbitten like bart simpson, to Boldfaced, and intimidating!!! swap in a checkerboard style grille, and send back some nice pipes with the exhaust, and put some super nice seats in the front. that would about make my dream sedan.. rear or all wheel drive, high efficiency motor, (read: no V8 thank you very much, too big) LIGHTWEIGHT, (compared to most cars anyhow) and comfy and good looking. I would probably find a way of hacking into a stock analog dash and replacing the oil volt and temp gauges with some aftermarket ones mounted in the original gauge pod... i hate add-on gauge pods.. and then maybe stick a boost gauge on the steering column betwixt the tach and speedo. add the factory GL-10 luggage rack in the back, keep my factory cruise (thats about the only thing my car has that most of y'all dont) and sunroof... I would have hlaf a million different littel retrofits and re engineering tweaks to add in.. like that AUS market fan switch that has the button to turn AC on and off, id get one of those and use it so i can have AC blowing bilevel..... etc etc but i would definitely be using my GL10 sedan as the beginning chassis. of course, the rust on said car is so bad, that ANY "plans" beyond driving her until she falls apart around the driveline are moot point, and get filed under "pipe dreams" along with the rest of this thread.. but O well.

makes you feel old, huh? i remember when my brother bought an '82 280ZX in 1994, we all thought it was the bee's knees... a Z that was only twelve years old! wow! i hadnt been in one of those since i was an infant! now, I watched the first gen Zcars come and go in the boneyards before i actually bought one.. they dried up right then.. and the 280ZXs are becoming rare. MAYBE one of them there, on any given trip. when i first became fully aware of this trend, i started picturing new model cars, 10-15 years hence.. you see a brand new Scion XB and just cant WAIT for the days when those POSs are out there by the score, you know? finally get to have at 'em with a louisville slugger.... OR the beloved BFH

backing plate.... *smacks self in forehead* not mounting plate or anything like that. i wasnt imagining the sheetmetal backing plate, i was thinking what goes behind it. cast... DUH!!

heh, yah.. anyone with a four door loyale/GL, try this.. roll the back passenger window down about 4 inches, and roll the driver window down all the way. on my car, at least, it makes the dang seatbelt itself just start flapping against the plastic finishing plate, and makes a REAL annoying sound. easy to identify, i mean i knew what it was before i looked at it.. but annoying.

no power to the fusible link lbock whatsoever. that means, that the large wire going between the battery positive terminal, and your fusible link block, is likely your culprit. that, or your battery cable itself. replace the positive cable immediately. find the wire im talking about from the terminal to the fusible links... and check that intensely. go to the store with the old battery cable in hand, or measure the length, and find one the same length with a good heavy wire molded into the terminal for you to splice on to your fusible link power feed. this will fix your problem. as i said, the power feeds from the battery into the starter motor only through the BIG battery cable. that smaller cable on the positive terminal feeds the ECU, the fuel pump, the injector, the coil, the fans, the radio, the lights, the chimes and buzzers, the seatwarmers, the dual zone climate control, the wait... wait... okay you got my point. i dont know why, but i got a little carried away there... so anyhow turn the key to on, turn the stereo on and loud if you can (to know if the car wakes up) and wiggle that wire around as best as possible. invent new ways of wiggling it. make sure you pinch the wire with both hands, leaving half an inch between your hands.. and wiggle that half inch.. and slide that zone along the WHOLE length of that wire. if wiggling it around doesnt bring power back, then the battery cable or terminal is bad and needs the ten dollar replacement. If you replace and its STILL no good, then the wire going into the block, or the wire's connection with the block, is bad (like mine.) I had to do the nastiest hack of a soldering job you've ever seen to get mine to stay in well, but it makes a fairly good connection. the only trouble point i have now is the one fusible link that needs to be wiggled once every few months or so. I have a feeling if i managed to do a better job attaching the wire to the block, I wouldnt even have that problem.

sometimes i start talking, and i just start going into such details that i say screw it, and i write a textbook article. when i do that, i often go back to the top of my post, halfway thru writing it, and include a brief disclaimer saying no, i dont necessarily think you're an idiot thats all. no clue on whether its the same or not.. but if they look the same, and seem to have the same switch positions in the same "clock" position, put it into the lock. before you install the lock back onto the steering column, put the key in and make sure it cycles through everything in a manner that seems proper.. ive had issues in the past finding a replacement switch for my datsun 280Z where i had a box of assorted mostly Zcar nissan switches... (theyre almost identical, and probably swappable, to the soobs, and a few other japcars ive seen) I had one that seemed right, thru several different checks.. but i screwed it into the lock and reinstalled the lock, only to find that the key would not turn at all.... DOH good luck, if this doesnt fix the problem then its narrowed down some more. come back and update us.

excellent answer, thanks for saving me the effort of a search. moot point for me, on the soob at least anyhow.. my subaru are have teh 3AT suxx0rbox

man, i have been wanting to snap that turbo GL10 in richmond with the bad trans up for a while now..... but its 900 miles away, which adds at LEAST 300 bucks to the tag, probably alot more... i dont know, but i thought the pushbutton 4wd was perfectly fine on snowy/icy asphalt......???? as for installing a new trans, if its a direct replacement and not a swap from a totally different vehicle, then its a job of a totally different caliber. not ENTIRELY like changing a lightbulb, and since you said youre on disability i can see where it might be a bit much.. but its less work than ANY sort of engine swap from one type of vehicle to another.. FAR FAR FAR less work, there are people here who could swap the trans in their soob in a couple hours. i know i could do it in my Zcar (1975 280Z thank you very much, my fellow nissan fan) in about two hours, if i was well prepared and had air tools and a token assistant to hand me wrneches etc. at my disposal.

ive never heard of future shop, or fry's electronics... just rad shack, and then you got your best buy/circuit city stores. a few high end electronics stores that are now known as "home theater retailers." I paid 30 bux to crutchfield for a stere mounting kit that would allow me to fit a DIN stereo into my dashboard, and still keep my trip computer located next to the stereo where it is stock. Fortunately, that kit is also going to allow me to install the cupholder out of a toyota camry at the same time.... but i havent gotten around to it yet.

w00t:clap: big ups to dave on being one of the few at the dyno shop who wasnt disappointed... if you ask me that board should have had a spot next to HP #s for what the owners "thought" it would be... what do they do as far as air flow over the front of the car for the dynotesting?? because air flowing into the hood for the top mount would probaly eliminate the need for moving it to the front, and if you put it in front of the rad thats just THAT much more strain placed on your cooling system.. whereas the topmount lets you run air flow (heated by the IC but its still air flow) directly over the back half of the engine.. isnt the turbo back in that region somewhere? (i ask because im ignorant, no turbo soobs in my driveway) I forget who it was, but someone here on the board made a "scoop" on their wagon's hood for the IC that was essentially a small hole cut in the hood, and then the hood itself was bent down slightyly to provice a ramp going down into the engine bay.... it looked good, no snorkel or anything. from the back side of the hole on back, it was a stock hood.. anyhow, congrats again, now that you have knowledge, its time to go pushing around for 210, 215. right?