daeron

thanks. it seemed like everyone missed that question, I figured if i put my foot in my mouth, it would get the right answer one way or another

tell tale? you want to run the ECU component check to diagnose a CEL? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 top right corner of your screen. USRM== Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual. user submitted, read (and lose hours of your time) at your own risk. but we did it, and it worked for us. alot of info is from the FSM, too.

couldnt it also be a sending unit going bad?? certainly not an expensive part to replace, or snag one or two from a junkyard if youre feeling lucky.. junkyard results could hardly be called conclusive though, and the "fix" could hardly be permanent, since they all fail eventually.

go to the hardware store and get a gallon of denatured alcohol. run your fuel tank almost empty, add the alcohol, go to the emissions test with a good hot engine (a nice highway cruise right beforehand is always helpful) and you will pass with flying colors. no harm done to your engine, just top off with a good half tank of gasoline afterwards, or more if you are that concerned. you could alternately try a seafoam treatment before the test, or both.. but the alcohol should be a sure fire pass. much cleaner burn than gasoline when it comes to HC and CO emissions, IIRC its especially helpful on the idling test.

ive read some malicious comments (rare and in good fun, of course, but shots nevertheless) about some "datsun guys" on the forum, and was putting up a defense against any flak from them. i think they may be the offraod crowd anyhow, talking about soob vs datsun in the dirt.. which is just, i suppose, since the datsun 510s and 240Zs were champion rally cars into the early 90s.... when they REALLY had no business doing so. i guess that right there is your proof for the EJ swap and abandoning the ea82 motor.... why couldnt subaru dominate in the 80s? answer: the ea82? i dunno, its a great car that I love, and i cant tell you how many times ive wished nissan had done it that way..... like the brake shoe retainer pins, thats GENIUS and im retrofitting it onto any datsun drumbrake setup i ever use from now on....

northwet: OUCH!!!! my sympathies, don't kill yourself.. youve only got two knees, and you kinda need em both for a little while longer, old fart though you (we?) may be.. MOOG doesn't sell them yet Beataru: that was just a pre-emptive apology anyhow, sometimes im afraid of coming across more arrogant or condescending than I intend, thats all. and i said i first became aware of the beauties.. my family and I were stranded in town in our van, 18 miles from our house and tools, and buying a can of belt dressing got us (and the groceries) home. been a close friend ever since, just like the can of fix-a-flat i NEVER want to _have_ to use...... can you say threadjack!?!??? sorry for all the off-topic posting here, i seem to do that occasionally. at least now I have a job and I'm not posting here every ten minutes anymore

I think he was trying to be a little funny regarding the punch.. indicating that he does, in fact, make it a part of his toolkit when going to pull an axle, or whenever.. as for his remark on the other site, i doubt that was directed at you.. there is an almost palpable feeling that that entire forum got started as a middle finger to the moderators of this site, in case you hadn't noticed... the loss of the domain was the insult that seems to make the minor injury sting at all. Anyhow, i doubt there was any ill intent towards you for mentioning "them"

I think that simply blocking off the other inlet would be sufficient, yes. i was surprised at all the conversation that had been stimulated here without that question being answered... I sure hope im not wrong, all my turbocharging and intercooling knowledge is hearsay/second hand...

i was thinking most specifically of my six with the non crossflow head.. as for anything else, i was guessing at what might be responsible for the feel im talking about... i honestly havent seen enough 510s on the road to be able to easily distinguish one from a toyota, as sad as that is to say.. ALL the japcars are rusting and dissappearing, or being built and wrecked by idiots down here. good for junkyard motors, bad for "the long haul" so to speak.... we better be careful here though. this is the soob forum after all, should we feel guilty for moonlighting?

if you can obtain a cheapo keychain laser pointer, that can help greatly.. just give her a good hot run, park it, jump out and shoot.. see if you can find any mist that isnt visible to the naked eye.

your hitch can always be braced more solidly. just takes more steel and fab time... ive never even trusted bumper hitches on a truck, from a factory... a (stupid) acquaintance of my father's once dropped a boat off a rusty trailer hitch and dragged it to the nearest exit off I-95 with nothing but chains, that tale scarred me for life.

my uncles built about six different engines for his roadster racecars (full blown race engines.. fully blown it took him a while to find a better jap motor builder..) and we have seen and made about any Zcar engine common, between my dad, my uncle, my brothers, myself, and our friend peanut (mostly him cuz he was the one doing it for a living) they can sound all sorts of different.. but even the four bangers have a common tone thats mesmerizing.... out of a non crossflow head, too.... I cant tell you how many times ive idly wished for a crossflow, DOHC head for that block.. but i know deep down it would utterly change something i love, (the exhaust tone) so in a way i am kinda glad thats not an option....

youre talking about a steel ball about 3/8-1/2 inch in diameter?? the belt tensioners use ball bearings, but nothing THAT big.. it was probably an odd chunk of road debris/old mechanic leftover???? but I cant imagine what it might be otherwise. if you see lots of people viewing this thread, and no answers, that what i would take it to be (especially since i have now gone and put my nose out. If I'm wrong, someone is BOUND to chime in, right?)

bgd: what does your door sill plate say for GVWR (gross vehicle weight restriction)? mines listed in separate axel weight restrictions, but you can add them up, and subtract the maximum load amount (found in the owners manual or on the Specs sheets in the FSM which is the same for all the ea82s, and get the curb weight of your car. the maximum load weight is something on the order of 800. i wanna say 850 but my memory isnt chiming in too strong, so i dont know exactly... but that may be the source of your alice in wonderland figures....

what took you so long?? I think _I_ was probably discovering the beauty of belt dressing when he was using terminology like that.. (disclaimer: i did the math, i was enlightened to making it home through the love of a can of belt dressing when i was like ten... im NOT belittling you by any means, beataru :-p)

teh suxx0r

yah, northwet hit em all. i dont know specifics on the EJ parts as far as models to source from.. i know it needs the adaptor plate for the EA trans, and i know it makes a lot more sense if you can get a donor car to have EVERYTHING for the EJ you could need rather than trip after trip to the junkyard, and that damnable junkyard cashier in particular. what i know, I read here. it was in passing, as I am in no position to do a swap right now, nor in the predictable future. keep the eyes peeled, or if you wanna be more proactive about it, use the search function. I really hate saying that to so many posts, because it IS frustrating to hear.. but its true, it IS your friend :-p

Me, ive always loved the l-series motors (six or four cylinder) totally unimpeded.. as for the supertrapp, is that the silly little horn thing that goes over the end and doesnt vent directly out the back???? when my uncleput one of those on his Z i hated it.. thought it was the worst sounding Z exhaust id ever heard. as was mentioned above, though... to each his own.

huzzah... my 75 280 is a junkyard beast, white with a red hood, one primer/bondo colored door (i sanded it down) and one maroon door, been sitting in my driveway for two years this week ( ) because i parked it due to a burnt fusible link block (read: small fire) and many other "needs" it had that couldnt be attended to in her five year stint as a daily driver (exhaust, reseal injectors, 60mm TB, four corners suspension, rear disc conversion, need my 5speed back in it, etc etc etc) As for the radio in the soob, you can buy an installation kit that will allow you to fit a standard sized receiver in there, and re wire the speakers, and its perfectly fine.. NOT that difficult to do either, or expensive ( less than forty bucks for the kit and the wire, i should say..) my local best buy had a standard soob install kit in stock, but since ive got am 87 GL10, my trip computer controls are mounted right next to the stereo, and i needed a special one from crutchfield to keep them there. even that was only like 35 shipped. no waiting or anything, either. shouldnt be that big a deal. good luck this weekend

yeppers, thats it. I am bookmarking that page to link to in the future, thanks for saving me some typing works as advertised.. alot of garages/shops have their own proprietary brands of a similar product that they use for periodic maintenance on cars... i was at my brothers shop fixing the timing belt on the soob when i got it (thats why i got it) and saw them doing it.. I asked if it was a seafoam treatment they were doing and they said it was basically the same stuff.

bgd: the complete car, with engine and trans, weighs about 2400 pounds. (a bit more, 2400 is the number i round down to for bragging ) I have an 87 GL10, the only extra weight i have compared to you is my power sunroof (negligible) and the circuitry for the trip computer and factory cruise... i would certainly be willing to bet that the engine/trans/diff could take up as much as 600 pounds of that, but no more than 800.that leaves the unibody/brakes/suspension and interior at about 1800, 1600 DEAD MINIMUM... strip her down to bare chassis, and MAYBE you might achieve 1200-1500 pounds.. but thats after all four corners of suspension/brakes gone, no radiator, no interior, nothing but sheetmetal and glass..... and i guess window motors. I still lean more towards the 1500-1600 mark for bare chassis, but i havent disassembled squat so its just a S.W.A.G..... did any of these cars come with crank windows?????(ea82s i mean)

well, there are some EGR things that can be removed if emissions testing isnt a factor.... but the best performance mod for the engine is to swap in a EJ22 out of an early legacy... 140hp NA. alternately, you could find a turbo EA82 car to yank the engine, intake, ECU, etc etc etc out of and get yourself up to like 120hp... but unfortunately, the heads are all essentially the same, you already have the highest compression pistons that fit, swapping to MPFI is pointless unless your doing turbo as well, and if youre going to swap something in, the simple answer is the EJ. I mean, ANYTHING might help.. hotter ignition, different cam grind, open up the intake and port match it, etc etc (insert your standard engine tooning bits here) but how much help will it make? probably not that much. sorry to burst yer bubble....

75 datsun 280Z, hls30 215171 (ive got her VIN memorized again :- ) thanks on that, never hurts to find out.

check that the coil is getting voltage before you buy any more parts... i believe it should have a hot terminal and a ground terminal, but ive never ACTUALLY troubleshooted (troubleshot?) this issue before so im just parroting what ive heard... you could search for coil +voltage and PROBABLY find a post that goes into it in greater detail.

ahh, i see now. nice.. MY only problem is, any hitch I put on MY sube is gonna have to be big enough to pull around a boston whaler +motor, gas, gear... of course, first i need a 4wd soob before i think about that realistically.....