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daeron

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Everything posted by daeron

  1. Sebring, Road Atlanta, and Laguna Seca are three tracks that beat PIR in the US alone.. PIR FTL bee-otch!!!! :-p Of course, Sebring hasn't been the same since they neutered the hairpin.. but still, so many different surfaces, so many bumps.. its a hairy course.
  2. Isnt the tunnel too small as well?? I thought they made the tunnel larger on the 88+ cars specifically to accept the 4EAT..
  3. +1, I like to use a hose always, too.. that way you can SEE if there were any air bubbles, even five, ten seconds later.. (as long as its a narrow enough hose)
  4. check for play in the distributor shaft??
  5. did you check the box for "search titles AND descriptions?" It returns a lot more "bad" results, but you are more guaranteed of finding what you are looking for IF it is out there...
  6. I must be mixing different suspension designs then.. Now that you mention it, radius rod makes more sense. Off to the textbook to expand my mind, I guess..
  7. Get the VIN of the car, so that in the future (god forbid) you can have a key reground for the locks from the VIN!! put it on a sticker and put it in the glove box of the vehicle in question, or maybe on a piece of paper folded in with the title of the car... (obv. I mean the car that the locks are destined to go INTO)
  8. Am I splitting hairs, or is that not more properly labeled a "tension/compression rod?" I hear (or read) "strut bar" and think "strut tower brace," not that.. but am I wrong, or carrying over a term from a different suspension setup, or something like that? Just trying to further my education, or clarify the thread if I AM right... not tryin to be a jerk :-p
  9. I live in South Florida. I don't really need heat. Take his opinion over mine; GD is probably right, and I confess that I was simply regurgitating information to try and help you out. I have no firsthand experience actually trying this, it just made sense when I read it. Some people will say it works well, I know that much.
  10. Consolidated both relevant above posts to make abundantly clear... and I have to ask Hodaka Rider if he is talking about a vacuum "gun" or the little speed bleeder valves I was talking about, since you only mentioned one.. the bleeders I was talking about look like this, and are permanent replacements for the bleeder valves in your calipers... Your typical bleeder valves look just like that, except there is no spring and check ball in the center. The seal is formed JUST below the end of the thread, so that when you back it off a tiny bit it is open to the atmosphere, both ways. The check ball eliminates the possibility for air flowing into the caliper. (just added that for abundant clarity since I am submitting this post to USRM under "ea82 (or series?) vehicle brake bleed order" Thanks for the concrete info, guys.)
  11. first shot is, remove the spare. Find the two coolant hoses going into and out of the heater core. Remove those hoses on the engine side, leaving some hose attached to the firewall. Flush back and forth, alternating hoses, with a garden hose. Watch out for spraying debris I would try that, then run with an engine flush product (per the direction on whatever product you buy) and then try the garden hose thing again after the solution has had a chance to eat away at the crud.
  12. its not just you, but I do not have a recommendation on what brand to use. For the record, any do-it-yourselfer can disassemble an axle enough to clean it out thoroughly with mineral spirits or diesel fuel, and then re pack it with fresh grease. Pulling an axle shouldn't be that major of a deal; there are many here who claim they can do it in WELL under an hour, from soup to nuts. I pulled my first one a few weeks ago and it took me about an hour to pull; I unbolted the pivot bolt of the lower control arm, unmounted the sway bar on that side, pounded out the pin, removed the nut holding the t/c rod in place on the chassis (although i THINK that might not have been needed, based on what people say here) and just.. pulled the bottom of the wheel away from the car until it slid off the tranny. Installation is a bit trickier, because pulling the new axle through the wheel hub can be difficult.. but not EXCESSIVELY. Go to the top right corner of the screen, click on USRM. there is a GREAT EA series axle write-up by edrach in there. Also, many people have great luck using properly sized hose clamps in place of the craptastic clamps that typically come with das boots.
  13. No, its a two man job; you have to keep the pedal down until its tightened. There is also a specific recommended order for bleeding the brakes, and I can never remember what that is. (seriously, that info needs to go into the USRM, titled as such.. if someone chimes in here I will do the legwork of submitting the post ) You CAN buy speed bleeders, which are bleeder valves with a check ball in them that will only allow fluid OUT of the bleeder when loosened, and NOT let air IN.. but they arent ridiculously cheap (~$10-15 per wheel IIRC) and I cannot be certain that one exists which would fit and function properly in the soob.. but thats mostly disclaimer, I would THINK that it would be a simple enough matter. BTW I think the "do not push in" comment was made in reference to just pushing the piston back in; at least, thats how I read it.
  14. Hey, thanks!! I have been wanting to do a side by side comparison of these two for a while, and seeing your pic of the coupe in maroon, reminded me that someone just posted a pic of their maroon XT6! (j2coe) I just figured I would post it here since it was easier than any other way, and while I am at it we can oo and ahh and discuss the differences between the two. Things that make you go.. hmmmm......
  15. This is (i believe) a common problem with the PCV system and was the subject of a recall on the SPFI system.. not sure if 89 was "built right" in the first place or if you need the recall kit, but that kit is no longer available from the dealer.. you ever go to junkyards? IIRC, the two elbows on the back side of the rubber intake snorkus, just to the LEFT of the TB if you are looking at the engine from in front of the car (passenger side) should be plumbed together IF the recall kit was installed, but stock they were two separate elbows.. Its hard to describe, basically what I am saying is you need to search "recall," search in older gen sub forum only, and look for "smoke" or "pcv" in the subject lines... In other words, people commonly have a problem with smoke on long sweeping right turns, and it has nothing to do with bad rings. Run a compression check and a wet test on the motor; its probably fine. Anyone got photos to illustrate what I so clumsily tried to describe above?? regarding the D/R swap, it isnt difficult.. but it has a couple tricks to it. IIRC, the hardest part is fabricating a carrier bearing mount for the rear drive shaft, since the FWD models had nothing of the sort.. but MANY amateurs have successfully done this. I think you need linkages, interior bits, gauge pod (unless you like the automatic indicators in your instrument cluster still) flywheel, shifter linkages, trans cross member, and rear driveline, in addition to the trans, clutch, and pedal assembly. MUCH simpler if you can get a donor car; saves trips back to the junkyard for bits you forgot. All the big things line up, though, and it is a fairly easy swap; Nothing more than the obvious stuff is needed.
  16. :-p but seriously... Get a friend to turn the key, while you sit under the hood with a large screwdriver. Take the handle of the screwdriver and put it against one ear, and then put the tip of the screwdriver against the base of one of the injectors. Be careful not to let the screwdriver bang your eardrum out, but get your assistant to crank the engine while you listen; you should hear a very audible "click" if the injectors are opening, if not then you likely have a problem with wiring, or possibly the dropping resistor. I know nothing about the MPFI setup on the soobies.. so I cannot help you trace the problem further than that, BUT it should be enough for you to figure whether they are firing or not. I would add a healthy dose of sea foam to a fresh tank of gas, and change the fuel filter as a pre-emptive measure, since you may have pushed some sludge into it. Hope this helps!
  17. Bigass screwdriver stuck in the fan blades, and a pipe wrench. Easiest to loosen the nut if the pulley is held immobile by a tight drivebelt, while the alt is still in a vehicle.
  18. I find myself hating the people much more often than the place. I love it here; the soggy air, the rain every afternoon, the hordes of mosquitoes, the festering swamps.. I am being serious, too... Paradise. Where else in the continental united states do you get to wear a pair of shorts, and no t shirt, to open your christmas presents??? Go to the beach on Thanksgiving? Celebrate hurricanes with massive quantities of alcohol in a pre-emptive attempt to numb your mind to the next three weeks of no air conditioning?? Welcome to FLAH-ri-duh... Murray, could you be a mensch and run down to the stowuh fuh sum bagels???
  19. I'm sure in the end it works acceptably, and done well you will get good results.. It simply IS the sort of thing that can be done.. poorly.. and in that case, you wind up with poor to disastrous possibilities. That was all I had to say; After all, I cast MY vote for Duct Tape
  20. whoa, I never actually looked too deeply into the XT6 swap! I didn't know that the ears were farther apart than the hitachi unit! The Maxima alternator is a much simpler swap, in that case.. it is a direct bolt in, at least on vehicles with the outboard alternator install/inboard AC compressor. (this means that the alternator is on the outside of the compressor, not vice versa; most AC EA82s are outboard alternator style.) The casing IS slightly larger, but not by much; and the spacing of the bolt "ears" is identical. The only difference is the plug; and really you ought to take the time to take ALL the wires that attached to your old alternator, and replace them with new wiring anyhow. if memory serves, there is a ground wire, a separate positive wire, and then the T-plug, which is two wires.. Big T and little t. All you have to do is trace all these wires back to their furthest junction, and replace them, and splice your new little t onto the little t of the Maxima plug, and the new Big T onto the Big T on the Maxima plug. The difficult part is really finding a local "alternator shop" or "auto electric" place to help you swap on an appropriate spacer and pulley.. BUT some time in the junkyard with a pipe wrench and a breaker bar, and a maxima alt and a spare dead soobie, can yield perfect and fully trustworthy results. I got lucky and found a shop to help me, but those places seem to be disappearing these days.
  21. Then, I must have inadvertently "remembered" a post from another thread of a new purchaser, and jumped the gun.. It was the sort of reaction that I didn't want to take time to question.. My apologies
  22. havent you downloaded the FSM pdfs by now? if not, http://www.ch601.org/engines.htm find ea82 parts 1 and 2, but most of the procedure you need should be in part 1. The driver side valve covers are where the ratcheting 10 mm box wrench comes into play.. a set is available from harbor freight cheap, like 10-15 bucks. You also need to take the cam cases off; what you picture as the cylinder head is made of three "slices:" the cylinder head proper; the cam case, and the valve cover. The cylinder heads will stay in place (obviously) but the valve covers and cam cases have to come off. This would be an EXCELLENT time to degrease your engine, incidentally. Just cover any holes, and the tops of the cylinder heads, when you do it; Maybe BEST to wait until the valve covers are back on and the dizzy in, but before putting together the intake, timing belts etc. The best way to install the cam case is with the cams oriented so that no lobe is pressing on a valve at all; this winds up with the keyways up or down, IIRC.. anyhow, it isnt hard to find. There is one spot in cam rotation where it has a "breathing space" and no lobes are putting pressure on any rocker arm, and as I said it is easy to find.
  23. I THINK the XT alternator has the same plug as your GL; otherwise, thats what you need to go through, right there. Finding a pulley. Hitachi makes alternators for alot of cars; Nissans and Subarus share virtually identical alternators in every way except clock position on the back, and that hardly matters. IIRC, the plug thing is simply a more modern type plug on the Maxima than on the EA series vehicles... i couldnt tell you if the newer subarus had the same "T-plug" or not, but its an easy swap. I figured it all out from scratch, starting out one morning looking for vehicles with high amp alternators on rockauto.com, and then going to the JY pulling 90 amp units from various cars, looking at them, and test fitting them in a GL in the JY. In the end, the maxima unit was readily available, fit the criteria, and looks almost identical to the XT alternator. MY entire project was stimulated by my Datsun 280Z; I knew from the day I replaced my bad alternator that the Z-car unit and my GL-10 unit were "virtually" identical, and when I examined it closer I discovered they were identical in all ways other than clock position, and the fact that my Z unit was externally regulated. If you DO go with the maxima unit, the only "trick" involved is to leave the top, pivot bolt out of the alternator until you have slipped the belt onto the pulley. This lets you slide the alt in a LITTLE closer, and makes the belt slip on much easier. I don;t know if it is needed on the XT unit, since I have never seen one firsthand.
  24. photomosaic, I presume? I tried downloading it and zooming out, but I still cant see it.. I am a bad example though, I can NEVER see those bloody 3-d images ("its a schooner!" "no its not, its a sailboat!" "a schooner IS a sailboat!") I blame astigmatism, and eight year old glasses, on top of my nearsightedness. Neat idea!
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