daeron

is there any chance that you are hearing gearbox chatter from the differential unit?? Thats about all I can come up with....

I don't leave the internet. My machine is on most of the time, and when I am home, yah... I check the forum fairly frequently. In case y'all hadn't noticed, I like to talk. Besides, I have been kicking around alot of thoughts that needs to get wrote down.. think of my forum activity as a combination between socialization, (although I DO have plenty of friends whom I see regularly) entertainment, (I don;t watch a great deal of television) anti-depressant, (helping people makes you feel useful and validated) and good ol linguistical calisthenics. Eight years away from school and I found that my abilities with words were a bit lacking. I am honing them and getting set to start writing, with a vengeance. Philosophy to science phiction and everything in betwixt. Plus, I love cars, and the last two years have made a major difference in my understanding of them; it has gone from being an interest to being a passion. Besides, I really like most of you people

The proper seplling is "jo-jee." Thats how they all pronounce it, anyhow. ah luv livin in de sowf! lahf is so layd bayck....:cool: Edit: gotta love mis spelling the word "spelling." Thats like brain farting and forgetting the word "vocabulary."

THATS what I like to hear. Its people like you, with initiative, and just good old fashioned stones, that REALLY make a car.. it takes the right car to make the man WANT to make it in the first place, but even with setbacks and mistakes, you are still pushing the envelope. Are you going to go with an EA82 style knuckle assembly, or go back to an EA81 style axle? if the answer is obvious from earlier posts in this thread, please forgive me; I can't recall all that and I don't feel like perusing it again at the moment.

He is saying that there IS no "Check Engine Light" and instead, he has an ECS light that comes on with the key (and I assume goes off when the vehicle is started.) Your test worker guy was an idiot. Thats the short version. I THINK at least; don't wanna set that in stone.

Zero truly relevant experience here... BUT my understanding is that the ea82 is a bit wider than the ea81... People normally ask the opposite question, OHC into an OHV car, and I know THAT swap is somewhat difficult. The other way around is a thought that has interested me many times, and as far as I could gather, it seems feasible. My mouth is WIDE open everyone.. am I gonna have to stick my foot in??

Nice BRAT! have someone tap the starter with a hammer while you hold the key in start. If the starter turns over then, you could either disassemble, replace the brushes, and clean and lube it, or just replace it. If the starter DOESNT turn over, then you have an ignition switch issue. The BEST fix is found here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74632 and that is to install a relay signaled by the ignition switch that activates the starter. Alot of people just wire a pushbutton switch in, but that really isnt exactly wise, nor will it last much longer than your original switch did. On a Carb'ed car the difference are made more miniscule than they are with EFI, but it is still wiser to relay the current, which makes the run from battery to starter much shorter (less resistance) and keeps it out of the cabin (less potential for danger) That being said, countless have ignored the "wise" approach and run pushbutton switches, and I have yet to hear of a car fire caused by one, or a failure of one.. so it can't be THAT bad.

Happy Birthday, namesake!! THIS Shawn is getting mighty close himself.. My oldest brother just turned 35.. Thats how old my DAD was when I was Born... Age hasnt started bothering me yet, and I HOPE it never will... I still feel (mentally at least) like im fresh outta high school.

Umm, yah!

if you ask me, that just means that the mice have fewer places to hole up in.

Quote of the day!!

not all of us-- some ECU's (mine included) only turn the fuel pump on when the key is in start or the engine is running.

this may help as well. Subaru EA82 parts 1 and 2. its not COMPLETE, but its the important parts of the FSM. It says 89 GL, but its the same for any SPFI EA82.

is it easier to start once it has been running and you shut it off, or are warm starts and cold starts pretty much the same, in regards to the "key position" thing? You MIGHT have a bad contact in your ignition switch?? It seems odd, but it seems like you were fishing around this concept... and these ignition switches are FAR from bulletproof; I had to install a relay on mine because the wiring wouldn't carry enough juice to activate the solenoid on the starter. Many others have had THIS problem, but I haven't read of any experiences where the key in "start" would prevent it from actually starting. Here is an idea... Try push starting it with the key on. If it fires up easy, then we have a clue......

harbor freight for the win on the ratcheting ten mm wrench. ten, fifteen bucks for a whole set. engine bay dirty? clean it I vote for not pulling, unless as grossgary mentioned, there are "extenuating circumstances" http://s130.photobucket.com/albums/p249/tardaeron/Head%20Gasket/ thats the fotos of me doing mine with engine in car. one short, easygoing day of disassembly, one short, easy going day of re assembly. cranked on first shot. Sorry, no fotos of the assembly; i forgot my camera that day.

Im sorry to be a jerk, but it IS true... it came up earlier this week, and a couple of weeks before.. I am just trying to avoid dilution of content here. While you're at it, check the "similar threads" below. I would be more helpful if I had firsthand experience with this problem, but you CAN find your answers in other threads. The advantage of using the search function is that you get to see the mistakes everyone else made, rather than taking a chance that no one will clue you in on your own thread.

http://www.ch601.org/engines.htm find subaru ea82 parts one and two. you are welcome

It could be easier.. it is NOT a direct swap AFAIK but it should be largely the same. However, if you are even contemplating it then it suggest a certain degree of ability that would lead me to believe the phrase "world of headaches" MIGHT be a TAD strong.. It is all relative. What kind of problems are you having? Most of the wiring issues from an AT-> manual swap can be coped with fairly easily. The simplest answer might be to find an ECU out of a stick shift vehicle, get the pinouts for each, and snip the plugs for the clutch, neutral sensors etc out of the donor vehicle, and just dovetail the stick shift electrical parts into your AT harness. The ECUs are virtually the same; for all practical purposes I think they ARE the same, 87->94. The "issues" you speak of should be neutral position indicator type codes, right? http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html That is General Disorder's EA82 SPFI onto an EA81 write up. Out of left field, I know, but it tells you how to fool the ECU into thinking things are kosher, and helps illuminate the subject alot. The last thing to say is that the ECU is hard coded to be in a manual or an automatic car. It isnt going to cause problems in and of itself, IF you can fool the auto ECU into seeing the right circumstances at the right times.. and his write up tells you waht those circumstances and times are. Sorry, this post jumped around a bit.. I had to dash to the parts store for some fuel line before they closed in the middle of writing it, AND I am STILL conducting an IM conversation with a good friend who is a thousand miles away... but I hope this helps.

No; a search on the words "weber hitachi" yielded over 500 threads that have discussed this subject. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=471196 The USRM has many threads itself http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75986 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74206 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63806 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49931 My point is that it HAS been done, and just about any 4 cylinder engine has been run on a weber. Do a bit of searching and you turn up a goldmine of previous peoples experiences, which will teach you a lot more than your own new thread here; you get to learn from the mistakes others have made by reading old threads. If you just post your own, there is no telling whether you will hear everything there is to say about it. Weber carburetors (the DGV, not the carter-weber that has come stock on some of these cars) are GREAT machines that function WONDERFULLY. As such, about three BILLION OF THEM have been installed. That is ALOT of experience to ignore. Some of us spend time writing what we hope to be exhaustive write-ups on these types of frequently discussed subjects. Having little carburetor experience firsthand, I haven't written any of these.. but it IS exasperating to see the same topic come up weekly. I hate to be rude, but don't you also hate to be rude? Discussion is one thing; starting from scratch is a different issue altogether.

d00d I need a fuel tank sending unit out of a 77 or 78 280Z, and I just tried getting the one out here, but failed....

the search function may yield 24364542356767 discussions about this.

At The Search Function, or Possibly Google.

Go US Economy!!! WOOOOOOOO!!!! EDIT I am such a troll sometimes

$7.99. click on the picture. Your energy, your effort, your mess.. my opinion? bad choice.

I had acceptable results repairing a crack on a BAFFLE on one of the rubber air boots on my 280Z with a piece of rubber from a bike inner tube, and rubber cement. If it was acceptable on the baffle, then it should be solid as a rock on a flat bit of snorkus.