daeron

That is called "Ideal." It isn't very common; I am not surprised that you aren't familiar with it.

Man, and I thought I liked that topper BEFORE I saw the picture from the tail!! I *REALLY* like the faux-Cherokee or Bronco look that it gives! Esepcially given the prominent Subaru badging on the rear of the car, (thereby leaving no doubt as to what the vehicle actually IS) it REALLY makes it look more like an off road warrior. Strike my earlier comments regarding putting diamond plating on the thing.

what else could you buy for three thousand dollars? Seriously? My understanding is that ought to buy that vehicle four or five times.....

Really??? Hmmmmmm.. upon further examination, I guess I was prejudiced by the 89 FSM pdf; in that FSM the only non-turbo GL-10s are the 3at FWD sedan and wagon.. I NEVER noticed that the 4x4 GL wagons were available with turbo engines, I thought it was RX or GL-10 only. Regarding the air cleaner, I cannot recall ever seeing one in a JY that was any color other than blue; and when I made that "blue thingy" remark I suppose I was underestimating your knowledge level, my apologies. Single Point fuel injection (also called Throttle Body Injection or TBI) is often very easy to mistake for a carburetor, to the under-informed *and* I was totally clueless that your car (not very different from my own model and year) could be purchased with a carb. ..and I have been tempted to correct Gloyale's mis-spelling of diagrahm (diagram) every time it comes up for just that reason, but I had no excuse to,

my point was that at first glance of the lower res image posted in the thread, there was no real detail on the bumper, and no detail to suggest it was a DL, visible.. so I had presumed the lad mustve looked in his album like most of us did as soon as we saw the photo. I was sarcastically poking fun at his "observation skills" that caught a ubiquitous bumper trim line, but missed the touring wagon roof.

I wouldn't jigger too much with the internals.. Better to go back to the junkyard with a pipe wrench, a big screwdriver, and a cheater bar and start pulling pulleys off of alts out there. I actually just saw an 88 wagon (i pulled my axle off it ) with an alt that had a one piece pulley rather than the silly two piece affair with spacer ring that I presume you have (since thats what most of the V belt pulleys are) Anyhow, sounds like you have the situation under control. Absurdly simple, isnt it? Gotta love the japanese!!

This October marks three years since my last encounter with any police that would reflect negatively on my driving record. I am looking forward to seeing the impact on my insurance rates, and also the possiblities along these lines that will open up as well. Anyhow, I need to find a ride to the JY; my ride fell through

http://www.ch601.org/engines.htm Subaru EA82 parts 1 and 2. comes from a 89 GL FSM, but its 99% accurate to your car; its only a few sections though, scanned and posted by aircraft hobbiest types, so its engine, cooling, etc. Has the complete NA SPFI section though, which is the most important bit.

I like using an oversized bolt (longer, not thicker) on the threaded ear, and spinning a nut and lockwasher on behind the threaded aluminum bit. The aluminum seems to always fail. If its already helicoiled then whadevah, but a longer bolt with lockwasher and nut work just as well... hold tension on belt while first tighetning down to whatever the aluminum threads will hold; hold tension on belt while torquing down pivot bolt, then go back and lock it in place with the nut on the long bolt.

I like your brain. Your responses are well thought out I was trying to lead you into saying something like that.. I will shaddap on that front now, heh :-p Seriously though, to the best of MY knowledge, most of them were simply options and not model year changes. I am a pack rat. I try to save anything salvageable. Please forgive my over enthusiasm You are in Washington; for old Subarus, that IS centrally located! PNW has the rest of the country PWNed when it comes to old subarus around. People have parts.

ugh, I couldnt post all this morning. Axle came off no problem, as a rule this car is NOT difficult on sticky nuts, bolts, or friction fittings. I was mostly peeved because somewhere I had gotten the misconception that I could slide the thing off the wheel spindle (I don't know how; suffice it to say that any reading on axles I have done has been "abstract" to say the least; "I havent had that problem yet") When I did the rear brakes, the rear bearings IMMEDIATELY responded by blowing out, one wheel at a time. I took the driver axle out, removed the DOJ components, and DOJ boot, and plan on using the boot (at least) on the passenger side, and inspecting that DOJ and replacing any parts if needs be, since the passenger DOJ boot has been torn for so long... but now that I have the one axle apart, I don't think I have any problems on the P/S joint other than the boot. Got the toolkit together to go to the boneyard tomorrow for the "new" axle. My oldest brother finally responded to a plea of mine for jackstands, and I think I can get one or two from him. I try not to do any main line work on the car in my driveway, so I have tried to avoid spending money I do not have on tools that I already have access to at the shop... A proper hydraulic jack is something that helps on the side of the road bigtime, jackstands I dont think I would keep in the car. Seriously.. until I either get another job or get more hours at this one, ten bucks is frivolous spending to me. I eat no food that doesnt come from the restaurant I work for, and this junkyard axle is going to suck up gas money for the rest of the week. Honestly, I am pathetic. The brain I have has NO farqing business working in a kitchen, but manic depression and social ineptitude (as well as godawful teeth) do NOT do a body good. :-\

Regarding the radiator fan.... We have talked briefly on IM, but when your using your fone its hard, so I will go into my long drawn out detail here.... The like new rad I pulled out of the junkyard had no nuts or threads of any sort on it to bolt onto. The top lip and bottom lip, where the nuts were welded on my stock rad, simply had holes. It came with retaining clips, slipped over those holes, that received the bolts that held it onto the rad. You said that your radiator has the welded nuts on it, but the fan interferes near the end tank. What you could do, is remove the radiator, and drill four holes maybe an inch towards the driver side of the welded nuts, get four retainer clips with bolts, and use them. If there isnt an inch to move over, then unbolt the fan and see how far over you can slide it until it hits the clutch fan shroud. If you think you can clear the welded nuts, and if you can move it over enough, this should work. I will try to find pictures of the type of retainer clip I am talking about; I am probably not using the right term for the specific piece. I dunno if this is gonna help, but its what I meant to tell you about a week ago, heh....

Sorta.. you're thinking of a keg cooler with tap and CO2 system. and as for THIS..... Does Tommy realize that his new bride is going all around the northeastern US touching other men's snowplows????

Ye Gods thats a sexy wagon

Then ship me a pair of jackstands :-p I only have a real jack because I lucked out and found one that was almost new on CL for like ten bucks... If my choice is take a risk or lose my job because i cant fix my car, i take the risk. My PLAN for today involved me disassembling this stuff up at the shop to inspect it and isolate my noise... Besides, the rear tires flat. Thats almost as good as a chock (i am kidding)

so you DO have to pull the stupid castle nut off??? I was somehow under the misconception that I could slide the damn thing off the spindle side too... grrr... This is going to toast the bearing, I know it, and i do NOT have money for BEARINGS.... I need TIRES desparately, and have for six months (cord showing on one rear, the other rear goes flat every day) 200 bucks a week is not employment. They keep me coming in for four and five hour shifts, sending me home early... So now I get to go put everything back together so I can bust loose the stupid castle nut that I don't want to touch anyhow. Great. When I got into this I was anticipating the DOJ on the other side only, so I didnt read too far into the directions, since I knew I could just pop the pin, pull it back, and get the DOJ side loose and remove the DOJ and "rebuild" it. So, now I am just SOL.. I hate this kind of stuff. Again, I wish I had gotten some sleep last night :-\

the distance on the ears isnt really hyper critical, since i cannot recall seeing anything close enough to be mistaken, that was NOT the same. The critical measurements will be the diameter of the body of the alt, and the depth of the body of the alt.... By all means, confirm the ear spacing and positioning, but the other two measurements are the critical ones. I haven't seen or heard of the maxima alt in an XT6 yet; you MAY encounter problems. I was able to overcome them easily enough, though.. I made a daylong project out of it once. In the wee hours of hte morning i spent about two hours hunting thru rockauto.com looking for vehicles that had hi amp alts, that MAY be compatible.. and then went to boneyard to pull and try. the BMWs didnt work, (100 amps, aww shucks) and the nissan was my second try at 90 amps, and it DID work. As I said, I did this all after I realized 100% that the alt bodies on my soob and on my datsun were identical.... (the internals on the soob vs datsun unit arent the same, mines a 50 amp external regulated datsun alt versus the soobie IR at 60 or 70) SOMEtimes the ears get worn or wobbled, and a rebuilder presses in a bushing to "locate" it on the vehicle properly.. just a heads up, this sort of press fit can be "tightened" or "loosened" as needed.

you run hi octane or low octane???? if you run low test, try a tankful of hi test before swapping radiators. Forcing that much more air into the engine than it expects (bigger turbo) can cause a lean condition, which can lead directly to pinging from predetonation, which torpedos pistons and blows headgaskets. If the hi octane seems to help, I bet you would be mest served by 280ZX injectors before a 2 row rad... alto the rad is always an important part, too. In the meantime, you can avoid the pinging by adding a couple degrees of ignition advance on the dizzy.. stock is supposed to be at 20* BTDC, but if you are pinging then you need to get that spark there a bit sooner so it ignites the fuel before the fuel ignites itself. Higher octane fuel, and more spark advance, are the two ways to step around predetonation, and pinging of this sort will DEFINITELY cause higher than usual coolant temperatures. (EDIT: I saw the subject header and I was very tempted to say "well then send her home, call up the agency and have them send out another one!" Would that have gone over well?? I am in a strange humour these days, because I am incredibly, mind bogglingly over stressed and under satisfied. If it was lame please forgive me :-p Consider this a blanket apology for any of the odd jokes I have made in the last week or two.)

First off, I meant to say 3/8". Providence landed one in my landlords toolbox years ago, and my mad rummaging skills have turned it up, and kept it around, long enough to be useful in this project. WOOT! Hmm. I undid the T/C bar before I undid the swaybar.. I dont have jackstands so the car is jacked up with the floor jack on the engine Xmember, and a safety support (the OE scissor jack ) is sitting underneath the driver door rocker frame rail... I am attacking from behind, and the TC rod is the first thing I see. Of course, once that nut is undone and it still wont budge, i move around to the front and see the swaybar, duh. Its already loose, DOJ is disengaged from the tranny. I just have to hack at the boot clamp with a pair of dikes and my axle is off. Or, does it just slide off the spindle? I am guessing that for JY axles, Driver Side is best.... right?? since the passenger side has the cat to deal with, I figured it would work that way.. then again, its my driver side axle that failed with good boots, while the passenger side has a bad DOJ boot and apparently is fine. I don't care, even if my experience IS the exact opposite of my hypothesis, I still think my theory is sound. I wish I had gotten some sleep last night :-\

So yah, mid day yesterday I made a U turn after getting gas... axle popped VERY VERY LOUD, I was afraid it broke then, but it didnt... fast forward to last night, about to cruise three blocks over to my friend and her sister's house () Start car, throw into reverse, begin backing out of my driveway, make the turn onto the road.... CLACK, same noise.. except this one was followed by more, realitaviely high frequency, clickclickclickclickclicks.... "Thats it, shawn, it finally gave out! less than a month after it started making noise, that thing went QUICK!!" It was my driver side CV joint, NOT the passenger side DOJ whose boot has been torn for years.... I had thought I detected an inordinate amount of play in that spot before, and felt no problems in the CV on the driver side; the boot was fine and everything. My first thoughts? I literally looked up at the rising moon, pointed at it, smiled at God and said "Hey!! Thanks for letting it blow up in my driveway!" I thought that was a nice touch, especially since every OTHER thing in my life has been in the crapper lately. (except for my friends sister, but thats off topic ) I knew it was only a matter of time, and whether I got to pulling things apart and fixing them before they went kablooey. Anyhow, I figured I would start this thread pre emptively, because any job I do I wind up posting SOME asinine question here anyhow... So my plan is to unbolt the pivot bolt of the lower control arm, unhitch the pin, and swing her out... I guess I might need to undo the tie rod ends, too, but I MAY just spin the tie rod end off the rod and take advantage of the opportunity to do a homebrew wheel alignment anyhow. Its been all fershnicket since I replaced the tie rod ends last year anyhow, its WAY past time for me to "deal" with that. I am sure I will be back.. Wish me luck! I hope to disassemble car this AM, then go snorkeling with my friend on the reef off the Breakers Hotel of worldwide renown..... and then come back here, go to junkyard, get axle, and do my funky thang. Now to find a 3/16" punch........

CRX, Good!!!!!!!!! Stupid Kids, BAD!!! I like to say this: A honda is exactly opposite from a steak: a well-done one, is rare. When they are done well, though, they are incredible machines.. no inline four cylinder has that same tone to it and when a well built honda drives by, I KNOW it. Never owned one myself, but my little bro has an 88 CRX HF, curb weight was something like 1800 pounds.. drop the ~120? horse SI engine and trans in there and that thing is like a ROLLER SKATE!! I want to put an EJ driveline into one someday.. but then again, I want to do that with a Z car and a mazda engine someday, too.... pipe dreams, sigh.

No, my friend.. it is *I* who owe YOU an apology.. I totally forgot you were talking about an XT6; you already HAVE a 90 amp alt! In fact, IIRC it looks remarkably similar to the Maxima alternator. 90% of the hitachi built alternators I have seen (which means most any Nissan or Subaru, and many other japanese cars) have been directly swappable, as far as ear sizes and locations. The physical size of the alternator is your only issue. You have a V-belt setup, or a serpentine?? I thought serpentine, and if so, then the maxima alt seriously should be nothing more than a swapping of the plugs. Its easy; there is one big wire and one little wire in the T plug, and the same goes for any IR hitachi alt. Just connect the big wires together, and the little wires, bolt it in, tighten it up, and you are golden. Maximas are ALOT easier to find than XT6s. HOWEVER, I HAVE to say that when I did this reasearch, I had to confirm it by pulling an alt from a maxima, and going to a GL in the junkyard and "installing" it in that car just to be positive of the fit. I will try to dig the box that the alt is sitting in right now out and get some outside measurements on it. it is NOT externally fan cooled, it has a cage-like casing to it and it may have an internal fan but I haven't taken it apart yet. I got the thing primarily for my Datsun 280Z; ever since I got my soob I had been thinking that the alternator looked identical to the datsun alt, and I was right; the only difference was in the clock position, and I have gotten a few alternators with differing "clock" orientations for my datsun; it makes no difference. They all have the single ear on the front, and then ~180 degrees opposite that, they have the two ears for the pivot bolt.

No, I wouldn't be surprised in the slightest.. I would simply be a lot less lazy than I am :-p (I have been "meaning to align my front end" using that method for about a year now )

I have the same problem; I was told that it is fixed by adding an additional ground wire between the body of the wiper motor and the chassis of the car, but I havent gotten around to it yet. I also have a spare wiper control relay, but since I have variable intermittents I do now know if it will work in my car... I am betting cash money that even if the ground wire is the "fix," taking it apart, cleaning it, and lubing it is the REAL fix. Also, dont forget to lube the wiper linkages while you have access to the whole apparatus; it makes a world of difference after 20 years.