daeron

see if he will let you buy the parts yourself and bring them to him, that is an EXHORBITANT PRICE FOR HEADGASKETS, PERIOD. head gaskets (buy 2) Intake manifold gaskets (buy 2 of the Nippon Reinz brand, it is OEM)) Cam Case O rings (buy 2 Ishino Cam Housing O-rings, these are OEM brand) If you buy all parts from thepartsbin, your total is 70.66 with free ground shipping. The head gaskets are cheaper at autozone, and the link above is to the Fel Pro Perma-Torque gaskets at Autozone.. A-zone charges 16 apiece, thepartsbin 28 and change. The total from thepartsbin without the headgaskets is 19.46 which includes a 5.50 ground shipping charge. It LOOKS like shipping from autozone is free, but don't quote me on that. If they need any other parts then just buy a cheapo headgasket set somewhere and throw the head gaskets, intake gaskets, and (if included, doubtful) cam case o rings in the garbage. The OEM o-rings are metal reinforced, and non reinfoced O rings have an annoying tendency to get sucked into the passage and cause decreased oil flow to the HLA's which results in annoying and chronic (but essentially harmless) Tick of Death. These guys are HOSING you on parts, whether they are simply passing their prices on to you or not. The Fel-Pro perma torque gaskets, and OEM branded head gaskets, are the ONLY way to go for reliability; the FelPro's do not require being re torqued in 500 miles, so they are the most relied upon option. Also, these cylinder head ALMOST ALWAYS develop small cracks in between the intake and exhaust valves; the rule of thumb is that cracks the thickness of a thumbnail are OK, anything greater, and replacing the head is simpler (junkyard.) Subaru released a number of Technical Service Bulletins regarding the Between The Valve (BTV) cracks being unharmful to the function and performance of the engine. However, they DO sometimes develop cracks in the exhaust port (ie, look into the port, clean the carbon out, and check the ridge that bisects the "siamesed" port.) Exhaust port cracks are eventually fatal, and welding on cracks in EITHER location is a lost cause.

Blow through the fuel line; you should be able to get it to bubble into the tank. Alot easier and tastes better to use a blowgun for this, but in a pinch you should be able to do it with your mouth; if you can't then yes, you likely have a clog.

per 89 FSM fragment. SR == S/R single range All vehicles in the US have the GVWR, specific to that car, printed on the VIN tag on the doorjamb. Either in the same area, sometimes on the door, sometimes in the glovebox. the also list the gross weight of cargo and passengers combined (~800 pounds in the GL/Loyale IIRC) Any car, find GVWR, find gross payload capacity, subtract payload from GVWR, == that cars weight as it rolled off the assembly line and got its VIN tag.

to the best of MY knowledge, this "donor car" should be an EA81, and I thought that either the older gearboxes were far more problematic, or they didnt fit properly onto the EA82 engine... I may be wrong though. I also would doubt it is a five speed if its from an EA81, but these are just vague impressions, since I have never NEEDED to know any of this. HTH, can anyone clarify this?

I learned the hard way (VERY VERY HARD WAY) that the nicest looking NGK BPR6ES-11s can STILL be bad. It never hurts to swap em out, and if it makes no difference replace your old plugs and keep the new set as a spare. What do they cost, seven bucks a set? Of course, if you are like me when I had my problem () and unemployed and broke... then its acceptable to ride on the presumption that the plugs are OK.. but if you have any spares around try swapping them out. I haven't had a GREAT deal of experience with various engines myself, but it seems that I hear about people having problems from spark plugs (even NGKs) on these older subarus more than any other vehicle I have known; I personally feel these things are very sensitive to poor spark plug performance.

My soob and my Datsun both weigh in at about the same, roughly 2500 pounds each. wouldnt have it any other weigh. (groan)

I agree, that shot *is* quite nice. Good color balance from the sky conditions, i guess? maybe there was JUST enough wisp of a cloud over the sun behind you at the ideal angle or something.. but that IS a nice photo, of an always impressive BRAT.

you say surprisingly peppy.. I STILL say its a wanton waste of wattage. I scoot around quick enough, but JUST barely. Traffic down here, between the various cultural groups who learned driving in their respective native countries, aged new yorkers, younger new yorkers, ditzy airheads of either gender, and the angst that whips up in the hearts of otherwise tolerable drivers, dictates a "passive aggressive" mode of defensive driving if I am EVER to get anywhere in a reasonable amount of time. Its not that I try to pull ahead of the pack JUST to do my extra five over the limit.. its the difference made with rapid acceleration and most importantly, the difference made in ever 30-120 second redlight cycle, that is crucial. Techniques you learn driving pizzas.. priceless.

six months, and about 10K miles, with bubbly into the radiator overflow from a blown headgasket here. I had ZERO trace of antifreeze or water in the oil, so I played it cavalier and put it off until it cost me a job.. :-\ I have about 4-5K on the engine since the headgasket job and its running fine. DON'T be intimidated by the fact that you are basically tearing your engine apart.. if you can say, change a water pump and timing belts, you are capable of doing this head gasket job. I would even be willing to bet that with the right tools and some pointers, a COMPLETE novice could do the job easily enough. I have never done MAJOR major engine work before this (nothing beyond the water pump/timing belt mentioned above) and it took me one easy, six hour day to dis assemble, then about the same to re assemble, and she cranked up on the first shot.

What kind of godawful gas mileage does a 3AT 4WD get, anyhow??? ugh, all that needless weight being slung around.. automatic transmissions make me sick.

PB B'Laster makes WD-40 look like water, and Sea Foam Deep Creep makes PB B'Laster look like WD-40. there is no reason in the world it wouldnt be right hand thread (lefty loosey) but I can't say that with certainty, because ive never taken it off. It would be the single stupidest thing on the entire car if that plug is left hand thread, I will say that much.

I know nothing about the trans filter, so I cant help you... but, worst case scenario.. you either don't change your diff oil, or you get a breaker bar and a big pipe and shear things to bits, and need to go to a junkyard and get a new rear cover plate for the diff. They cant charge TOO much for it...

That was also my impression; obviously you dont want a surface comparable to a four day stubble, or sixty grit emery cloth.. but you dont want it smooth as silk, either; there needs to be SOME surface adhesion for the gasket to seat properly.

GD is right, period.... the project you have in mind in "just editing the stock ROM code" involves decompiling the entire program that is written onto the ROM, then interpreting that (keeping in mind that it was written by Japanese engineers at Hitachi) and THEN, you start fiddling with it, immediately violating the intergrity with which it runs the car so smoothly. I assume that you've talked issues out at the megasquirt forums?? MS was INVENTED specifically to make a computer that you could do exactly what you are talking about.. fiddle with the source code, in an end-user friendly fashion. I understand the problems you have with its limitations, but I think you fail to fully grasp what you are talking about trying to do with the stock ECU... You wouldn't QUITE have to take the code down to pure binary, but assembler is close enough to raw machine code that, unless you have EXTENSIVE auto-computer engineering experience, it may as well be 11001010010100101010101001010, yanno? Aplogies if I am coming across as condescending.. and also apologies if you DO know what you are getting into by asking this.

Make sure you can loosen the filler plug before you drain the diff, if you are having difficulty removing the drain plug... It wouldn't be good to drain the oil, only to discover that the filler plug (which has NOT been submerged in oil on one side for X years, as the drain plug has) is even more firmly seized than the drain plug!!

search for "ford fuel pump," it may also be included in the USMB (Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual, top right corner of the screen) There is a fuel pump from a ford F-150 pickup, and also I *think* a crown vic, (both early 90s) that works great as a swap in replacement... and is MUCH cheaper at the local parts store.

The rust that is worrisome in this situation is internal, along the bore of the hydraulic cylinder that IS your brake caliper; all that metal holding pads in place is ancillary. You have to remove the piston from the cylinder to see if there is any rust on the cylinder walls. If the walls look fine, then the cylinder can be reliably rebuilt.

also a possibility that the resulting contact surfaces on the head, or the block, were TOO smooth.. the gasket wants a bit of roughness to seal against. Just figured I would throw that out there too.

you could have new flanges welded onto your existing y pipe at an exhaust shop that would use the unused holes, you could try wrapping your gaskets around with aluminum foil a couple of times.. you could try to get some studs and nuts, and set the studs in there tight and THEN try tightening down onto the studs.. or you could just see how bad life is with the windows rolled up. My exhaust leaks pretty bad, AND the body of my car looks like swiss cheese (search my name and "rust" and youre bound to find pics) and I never smell exhaust fumes... granted, CO has no odor, but the rest of them sure do. Obviously I live in a non emissions area, and you may be in a different situation... but thats my two bits.

That is exactly what I had thought. The answer is, that you will need to piece together the ignition system from a carbed model (*I* am less than 100% clear on exactly what list O' parts, but I assume you would know this better than I) but that dizzy will drop right into the SPFI longblock. If you were to totally ignore all the auxiliary crap on the engine, and focus simply on the longblock, then the SPFI engine will work great for your trike; you just need to get all the ignition equipment off of a carbureted model. The SPFI engine is slightly higher compression as well, I think it is 9.0 (carbed) to 9.5 (SPFI) but the carb may even be slightly lower.

My comment was made under the impression that he is taking an SPFI longblock and running it carbureted. I base this on previous posts from the user more than anything else. question: how did the carb'ed cars know to energize the fuel pump?? there is an international user with a post (should come up just below this one after I place this post, cant recall the subject header) who needs this info; his car was originally FI, now its running carbed, but it appears the fuel pump relay and wiring are still "stock" FI; the pump only runs with the green connectors plugged in. Not having any carbed experience I couldnt help him wire it properly..

I was kinda hoping someone with Carb-model experience would chime in by now. You DO have a low pressure fuel pump on the car, instead of the original, high pressure, fuel injection pump? The pump for fuel injected cars runs at about 50 PSI output, where the carb pump runs about 5 PSI. The biggest reason NOT to simply hard-wire a line to your fuel pump so that it comes on with the key, is safety. When the engine is not running, the fuel pump should cut off. This way, if you are in an accident, and the engine dies, the fuel pump does not continue pumping fuel into what may be a fire hazard. Until you can figure out a "safe" way to wire the pump on your own, I would stick with the green connectors staying plugged in, and live with the noise.

How much do you know about fuel injection systems Theory and Function? How much would you like to learn? This isn't going to be a direct help to you in your problems, like it would be if I could simply tell you how to fix the problems on your car (i cannot) BUT its background knowledge that helps you understand how the car works, and how it can FAIL to work... its a link to parts of the 89 GL FSM Engine sections.. yah, its for the four cylinder, and yah, its for SPFI, but parts of the MPFI sections are there, and the important part is the theory of operation. http://www.ch601.org/engines.htm find Subaru EA82 parts 1 and 2, open the second file, and go to the Fuel systems chapter, and just read. Read slowly, go back and re read paragraphs that didnt make 100% sense, and if you have to, re read it in a week or two. It is easy reading (unlike some factory service manuals) and a good explanation on "how it works." It may or may not help you in your current problems, but it sure cannot hurt. hope this helps.

how about these two? http://forums.wrongdiagnosis.com/showthread.php?t=8406 http://forums.wrongdiagnosis.com/showthread.php?p=22514#post22514 I realize this guy has been a total goofbag, trolling areas of the internet where he apparently had no clue he was not wanted.... but seriously, it is HIGH TIME we stopped allowing this asinine continuance of mockery. It serves no point beyond us beating on our chests and inflating our own egos; it is the equivalent of a bunch of ************ing schoolkids pointing and laughing at the retard. Seriously, ********* is censored by our goddamn swear filter now! WHY are we still discussing him in an open topic solely devoted to mocking him? The man has been through some horse-************ in his life, and he deserves at LEAST a drop of respect simply due to the fact that he donated a paltry sum to the operation of this forum. Yah, I am a little pissed off about this. Please. Close it.

sometimes you can, but I would think that if it were VISIBLY bad then you would know yuo had something seriously wrong. Rotate the rear tire up to the front on that side and see if things feel weird. If they do, then try to dismount the tie rod's ball joint stud from the steering knuckle; the "best" way to do this without buggering the boot up with a pickle fork (and rendering the tie rod useless very soon, even if its good now) is to smack the side of the steering knuckle with a hammer, HARD. Picture the steering knuckle as a donut, and the stud from the tie rod as a cone that donut is sitting on, you need to thwack the outer edge of the donut and supposedly, they drop out. I say "best" and "supposedly because *I* have NEVER had success doing this, but MANY MANY MANY people do it this way and get it on the first two or three shots. If you really are in doubt, then just replace the tie rod ends, and take it in to a shop to have it aligned. don't tell them about your "Accident," and see if they come up with any other problems. THe tie rod ends (two of them) shouldnt cost more than 60 bucks, the wheel alignment maybe 50, and you get 100% peace of mind that way.