daeron

the thermostat should be there for more reasons than simply limiting the flow of coolant while cold. The thermostat acts as a restrictor plate on the water pump, which causes the coolant in the engine to be under a bit of pressure, even when cold. This pressure helps raise the boiling point of the coolant, and makes it a more efficient coolant. It also helps to resist what is called "nucleate boiling," which is basically flash boiling at a certain point. This typically happens in the head, right behind the combustion chamber, and can result in a hot spot and pre-ignition or other pinging. With the thermostat in, your cooling system runs more efficiently; even if its a low degree rating thermostat, it is better. BUT, I have run my NA car for well over a year and a half without a thermostat, and haven't had any problems. You, however, run at a much higher altitude, and much colder temperatures, AND have a turbo car. I would recommend installing an OEM thermostat. It would be best for your engine in the long run.

it seems i wasn't the only one who had that thought upon reading the first post

Okay, so let me make this abundantly clear. This is stuff my uncle wants me to move. Unless I find otherwise in the next couple of days, I will take what price I get for it.. In other words, make me reasonable offers on what you want via PM. The purpose of the post was initially just to get ID help, but so far: hatchsub, maybe radiator, need to be positive its an EA81 unit turbone, maybe headlights. crazylong is interested in the carb, or tomrhere is, obviously depending on whether crazy can use it.(we are fairly certain its an EA81 carb right?) subaru guru and durania have both expressed interest in the seatbelts, but I dont want to make this a public bidding war in the old gen forum. I will look into what to do about this, and I will make an official post about that. I had a feeling thats what those were, and anticipated charging a reasonable sum for that, as well as the XT mirror and maybe the carb, but letting the rest go for uber cheap. Whatever happens, I am not trying to filch anyone and hope to give everyone great deals on great parts. The carb and the alternator obviously need thorough inspection to ensure that they will be in proper working order, since they HAVE sat in a warehouse for 25 years... So anyhow, anyone seriously interested in obtaining what I have already shown, please send me a PM with your email, or an email with your USMB handle. shawnmcarey@gmail.com Now, this "black accordian thing," if it is the thing in the background of the one carb picture posted.... I think that was just some odd scrap in the background of that picture. I am virtually positive it has been thrown away, and highly doubt it was a subaru part... The only other thing I could see that might be identified as such was what I tentatively called a window regulator? To be honest, my memory fails me on exactly what that part was, and the photo sure doesn't help much. window regulator doesnt seem right to my recollection, but thats all I can say that it looks like. Regarding the turbos, I GREATLY appreciate the ID of the mazda turbo; the 280ZX one we knew, it was just thrown in for the picture. I suspected oil cooled subaru turbo. This knowledge will help me identify probably six or so turbos or partial turbos.. some of these may be useful for rebuilds, some MAY be useable as junkyard swaps.. those guys will most likely be going for songs, so to speak. I will get more and better photos as soon as possible, but I am working from 5PM-1AM for the next four days, so it might not be until early next week.

sounds like an internally regulated alternator being installed in a vehicle with an external voltage regulator. I am guessing the EA81 is externally regulated? It would make sense, around 1980 is when nissan made the shift to internal regulated units, and both cars come with hitachi alternators... Interesting. Essentially, its a NIB Z-car alternator. thats about what I figured. I wish I had a better camera to take better photos, that weren't fuzzy. Truth be told, these pics are six months old, but I haven't bothered to post them because of the poor quality. I was hoping to get better shots, and had procrastinated this far waiting to do so. I got sick of waiting. This CERTAINLY shows me the demand for some of this stuff, so I will get better shots and more information pronto!

Thats my phrase :-p

sorry to dicker, just wanted to make it clear. If I'd have known the answer, I would have told you.

I was just being funny anyhow, hence the smiley. Alot of these places need to pay rent on real estate that has a higher than ambient value; that, at least, is justification enough for some parts price inflation in MY neck of the woods, and most dealerships are located in relatively higher traffic areas. At least the 300 percent markup is on the $2 item and not the $20... hopefully. In this case, its a moot discussion anyhow, since thepartsbin only charges 3.99, and will ship orders over $50 free.

Okay, this is the bulk of a small cache that my uncle acquired with a warehouse bay full of datsun stuff. These are only some of the pictures from my photobucket gallery, found here. Any help IDing this stuff is appreciated; all of it is bound for sale here on the cheap, just to be liquidated. This isn't an official "for sale" post but any offers will be considered. The turbos pictured are a representative sample. The one IHI I believe is an EA subaru turbo, has a few brothers on the shelf.. The other turbos in the gallery, if you can ID them, thanks. All this stuff is NIB OEM stuff, just been sitting in a garage for 25 years. A dealership closed in the early 80s and thats where this guy got it all... so its EA81 or older. Radiator, several of these Light Hitachi carb, 2 barrel one type of seatbelt another type of seatbelt window regulator? I can't recall, these are older photos. alternator XT6 power mirror, passenger side, red gauge pod AC clutch headlight buckets, LOTS of these, unsure if we have matched pairs or all one side: and, shocks. I have a few more photos in the gallery, and a few MORE on my PC, so if you want more better pictures, ask. I should be going back by there sometime very soon, I meant to today but didn't get around to it. Thanks for any help finding out which cars these go to!

the stock air filter flows ample air for a 1.8L four cylinder. The stock replacement filter for the EA SPFI was the same cartridge used for an NA first gen 300ZX, 170 hp 3.0L V6. If it can flow that much air, it can flow enough for the little boxer. The limitations on airflow lie in the intake port sizes in the head (shared between two cylinders each) and the sheer size of the manifold and throttle body. You can inspect the matchup of the TB to the manifold, as well as the matchup of the components of the throttle body itself, and make sure all airflow surfaces and transitions are as clean as possible, and if you want to get into it take the manifold off and port match it to the head... and gain probably a little smoothness, a little power, and a little efficiency at all RPMs, but the gain would barely be noticeable. Its sort of an anal-retentive thing.

Did anyone ever tell you you're an rump roast? But on a more serious note, exactly how does one go about obtaining this sort of love from the grabasstic dealership parts counter??? Knowledge of this sort would be very nice to pick up :cool: (it would save on shipping, too.)

+ infinity squared.

you can keep your eyes peeled for a cheap weber carb somewhere, if you are handy at all you can rebuild a decent weber easily and could score one in need of rebuild for 100 bucks, if you're lucky. Then go to the redline website and buy adapters etc.. In other words, the price can be made somewhat elastic, if you can do some searching and some work yourself.

you lousy red neck :-p (sarcasm)

any chance its the intake snorkus collapsing a bit at high air flow????

I am pretty sure he has done all the normal stuff. I am also beginning to have some PCV questions.. I have never managed to actually remove mine before yesterday, because I never concentrated any effort and was always foiled with a single wrench (it was TIGHT) I was investigating because my dipstick is always popped up, like there is positive pressure pushing it out of the tube. I also seem to be experiencing a great deal of oil leaking at the oil cap. I tightened the tabs on the cap, so its a much snugger fit than before, but it shouldnt have been so dirty in that area; the tabs were NOT very loose in any sense, they just had a bit of room for improvement from "reasonable" to "effing TIGHT." My PCV valve seems to function fine. Non-retrofitted hose setup for me, too, and I have never seen one in the JY. I keep my eyes peeled.. but am *I* wrong in thinking that a PCV valve that functions perfectly when its in my hand (i blow, and it seals off good) should not need replacement?

GD, you mind if i save a link directly to this post for a "short version" how-to on the timing belts in the future?

That is a BEAUTIFUL picture!!! It almost looks like the Buckster is winkin at you! That reminds me, I need to call my uncle Buck. Thanks. (I'm serious) regarding rocky raccoon... my, how plans change, huh???? :-p

I knew how to swing an axe properly at age eight. You start with one hand at the base, and one hand immediately below the head... (well, you START with both hands at the bottom, head on the traget where you wanna hit it, and position your feet accordingly, THEN pick up axe as described) Then you swing the axe up off your shoulder, sliding the top hand all the way down to the bottom hand as you go, getting a trebuchet effect and like, tripling the force you are throwing the head with. Otherwise you get nowhere fast. I am guessing these guys don't cut alot of wood. They probly don't do very much with what little wood they have

hey man...... what about quad rounds????????? I think it was McBrat that did that to his 80s hatch... and it looked SHARP, I have SCADS of OEM NOS quad headlamp assemblies at my uncle's shop.... you would need to find trim and grill pieces, but..........

if a timing belt breaks in the woods, and there aren't any bent valves around to hear it snap, is it really worth making a post????

What would you do, if you were in a scenario where all you wanted to do was install a thermostat for nothing more than a restrictor plate to help cause a pressure differential?? I haven't run with a thermostat in about two years now, and about eight months ago I finally read the root reasons for why you really should have one in there, even if overcooling is not an issue (the restriction helps raise the pressure a little higher, which raises the boiling point of the coolant, which makes it a superior coolant) I have been kicking around in my mind as to what I should do about this, and I think that maybe getting a cheapo aftermarket T-stat and gutting it for use as a simple restrictor plate might be my best bet. That, or possibly finding a way to permanently jam it open.. but I don't know. Bear in mind that "frigid winter" to me is literally 50* or lower.

I don't THINK that any of the parts listed on thepartsbin for your model and year are the coolant temperature sensor. (CTS) That is the typical generic term for the sensor that tells the computer how hot the coolant is, thus informing the computer whether its cold running conditions, hot, etc. There are a total of three temperature "switches/sensors/senders" Technically one of each. The switch, is in the radiator, and it turns the electric fan on and off. The sensor is the CTS I mentions already, and its on the passenger side of the intake manifold. It is a plug similar to those pictured in thepartsbin, but instead of having a male spade terminal on it, it has a wire attached to it that terminates in a round plug much like many other under the hood of the subaru. The Sender is for the temp gauge, and that is what is pictured under all three of those parts listed on thepartsbin, IF I am not mistaken. Go to http://www.rockauto.com and look it up; they have senders and sensor listed. One of the items listed under "Sensor" is a sender, I believe, but most have the pigtail I mentioned. That being said, it probably is not your problem. Common experiences here seem to indicate a faulty connection to a sensor, more often than a bad sensor; and either case is indicated primarily by either poor cold start and idle, or rich conditions when running warm, and poor fuel economy. My guess at what caused the little hiccup would be a possible janky spark plug and or wire.. possibly a coil wire, or a slight buildup of oxidation under the distributor cap. However, I am largely assuming that this problem was temporary and hasn't barked at you again since; if I am wrong say so. Hope this helps.

And a very strict dress code. I looked into getting a job at radio shack when I was in high school, thinking maybe I could be a good, helpful radio shack guy.. but when I saw exactly how clean cut and dressed you had to be (shirt and tie I think, shiny shoes, etc.) I was turned right off. It's not any fundamental opposition to a job involving a noose... (although its not my favorite) but more an issue with them wanting me to dress like that just to work at a radio shack.. The type of tool that takes a job like that in the current south Florida economy is either some schmuck who has no idea and is starting out what is likely to be a lukewarm career in sales, or some poor schmuck at a low point in his lukewarm career in sales. I had the bulb with me, and they were useless. I have a lead on someone whos willing to mail me bulbs for cost of shipping, so this issue should be essentially laid to rest.. BUT, I may be frankensteining the two trip computer displays in the end, to get one that looks best... (old one green screen, "new" one amber) and if I do I will update this thread with info and pics.

pshaw, that aint nothin. good to hear it was figured out, thanks for the update.

man.. shut up. the sad thing is that I went and did the math on the completely mis-cognated figure... that oughta teach me to go to a bar with my friends after work on friday night.