daeron

People like this pretty much embody all that is wrong in America.

Just to add some weight to this suggestion, I want to clarify that this is NOT a hot-rodder type thing, its not a "fly-by-night" modification, it isn't a hack in any possible sense. Weber carburetors are THE name in small automotive engine carburetion, whether the DGV downdraft style or the DCOE sidedraft style, and countless automobiles, motorcycles, and other gas powered vehicles have a "weber swap" that is, almost as a RULE, a completely superior to OE option. More power, more fuel economy, smoother performance, more reliability. Everything from datsuns to BMWs like to use weber carburetors; sometimes they DO get installed by the factory. The weber swap is in all ways your best option; the only hesitation that there EVER is, is emissions code. If GD says its fine by your local standards, I believe him (and would have thought so anyhow; it takes strict rules to make the weber swap totally unachievable. Sometimes its not strictly by the rules, and you "get away with it," but im pretty sure in your case its A-OK by the book, too.

Or use the stock dizzy for the CAS to signal an EDIS system pulled of a 4 cylinder ford.... again, with MS..

you don't have a MAF sensor or an Air Flow Meter; your car is carbureted. I have no idea what fuse you are talking about, or what it might be; but chances are that thread linked with the fuse box cover pic is not the same as your car. What do your battery cables look like? I want you, with the car off, to check the voltage with the MM probes directly on the battery terminals themselves, not the cables.. then go inside and check the voltage at the fuse panel. The factory battery cables were NOT built well enough to last 20-25 years and still work happy, and the terminals bolted onto those cables were even worse. New cables would probably go a long way for ten bucks.

This IS a great idea.. I have seen ignition setups that for some reason were getting proper voltage, but nowhere near the amperage needed to put a spark out that would actually ignite the fuel; basically we did what tom suggested (this was on a 240Z) and the car cranked up perfectly. Also, swap out a different set of spark plugs if you haven't already; that didn't get specifically mentioned so I had to re-iterate. I'll shut up about it now, but after the PITA I chased earlier this year... I don't want anyone else to go through it. This sounds very similar to the problem I had been facing on my SPFI setup, or I never would've mentioned it.

Okay, I installed this guy this spring, but forgot my camera. I recently pulled it to tap the front speakers into the new stereo; I just ignored stock wiring completely when I installed it, and ran new wire for the rear channel. When I did that, the CD player stopped ejecting CDs, so I took it out again today to fix it. (success, for the record) You've seen these two shots: The cupholder, and the metal brackets I frankensteined and used, came from a mid 90's corolla? but they looked almost like they have have been aftermaket there, too.. hard to tell. Now, for the nitty gritty shots that I took today: This is the faceplate (not including the spacer I needed to use) complete with screw on support bracket The install kit was the faceplate, the spacer plate, the support bracket, and some screws. I used some modified sheetmetal brackets to attach the stereo and cupholder to each other, so they function as one unit. The sheetmetal has one corner with an ear that one of the four mounting screws runs through. That screw, and the support bracket, are all that holds it in; but its solid enough. side view of the assembled stereo/cupholder, with spacer plate dangling: here you can see the one screw "ear" on the top left corner of the deck: You can see the trip computer in this shot; it has two ears on the right side of it, and both of those have mounting screws running through them. This is the hole in the dash, showing the LACK of the metal bracket that needs to be cut out. So to summarize: four mounting screws go into the stock locations to hold the entire affair in place. Two of those go through first faceplate, then trip computer, then spacer plate, into the dash; one goes through faceplate, sheetmetal bracket for stereo assembly, spacer, then into dash, and one just goes through the faceplate and spacer into the dash. The radio and cupholder are bolted together as an assembly, and are held in place by the one ear, the sandwiching effect of everything going together, and are supported by that plastic bracket. After all this, I never use the damn cupholder. I still leave my drink on the center console, between driver seat and handbrake lever. Using the cupholder obscures access to the stereo, and risks an accidental stereo douching which I would rather avoid.. BUT it is there if its needed for something. Covered drinks only, please! I doubt this will be of TOO much help to anyone, but I promised photos long long ago anyhow. Anyone think this is worth submitting to this USRM, go right ahead.. EDIT and Oh yah, I REALLY need to clean out my car.. but I don't care :-p

Get the tailgate in any color, and get some Rustoleum and re paint her!!!!!! nice BRAT, I envy.

its REALLY sounding like either a fuel tank or fuel line issue, or a coil problem. do you have good volume of fuel supplied to your carb? a partially clogged line could cause something like this.. I doubt an issue with the return line could cause it, but it may be worth investigating. As GD said, what color is your spark? I realize you said the coil etc is "good," and I haven't re read your other threads to see what makes it "good" but, the important thing is blue spark out of your spark plugs. Do you have that? You aren't using the same spark plugs as you were in the other engine, are you? Other ignition parts (wires etc?) If so, replace the plugs; I learned firsthand this spring that the most beautiful looking used NGKs CAN be intermittently bad. Failing that... the only thing I can even brainstorm that could effect it would be driveline friction?!!?????? but that makes little to no sense. You HAVE to be close to figuring this out. Good luck, these problems that run from one thread to the next without resolution are the WORST.

Schweet, you *should* be OK then, knock on wood. Just had to throw it out there and make sure.

Possibly a bad common grounding point? Thats the tricky bit. Was I right on the switch being on, or did I make a complete rump roast of myself? :-p

People and places like this REALLY embody almost all that is great about America.

There is a switch on the top of the steering column. Flip it off. Its the switch to turn the running lights on with the key off. That should fix your drain/lights staying on problem. And don't feel bad, it happens to alot of people.. cars have been sold CHEAP over this "slow drain" issue. As for the radio and blower motor, that sounds more like a fuse or bad wire.

Word. Florida is the place where that starts happening at 60. Check out this zoom from one of my "rust pictures" I took when I finally got a camera for my birthday last december. Sure, there may be a weed or two.. but thats a beautiful, green, happy lawn. And a 12/18/2006 datestamp. It was about 70 degrees out, IIRC. /gloat as for this.. BURN!!!! Almost everyone regets the shortcomings of their education at some point in their life. Those who do not, usually feel particularly grateful for the LACK of shortcomings in their education. Few people reach 65 years and say "I sure am glad I stopped going to school when I did!" be they high school dropout, HS grad with no college, college dropout, Degree holder, or graduate school dropout. I understand where you are coming from right now, but even if you had six fingers on each hand and talked funny, and went to the high school from beverly hills 90210, it would still be safer to stay in school now and NOT take the chance of regretting it later. Many people succeed fine without high school education, but those numbers are dwindling with every passing generation. Please, school is practice for life, and what little bit we are able to bestow on our high schoolers in America is still more than nothing. You WILL be a better person for graduating high school than you could be otherwise. Obviously there are things that happen that cause you to simply NOT have the option, and if you are somehow backed into a corner on this issue and have no real choice, I apologize for browbeating; but the importance of this matter cannot be overstated.

It Ain't My Turbo, if My Nails Ain't Greasy!

why does it seem like those are the BEST of the best places????

not ANY soob, apparently.. I have seen multiple cars in the JY here with under 100 on the clock. one must have been a wreck, at least... but most of the soobies I have seen were either solid and intact, or rusted.. not wrecked... btw knockin REAL HARD at 150K here, i was gonna wait a day or two until I had the pic to go along with it

You NEED to use dealer intake manifold gaskets. I haven't personally experienced it, (I replaced mine with OEM brand) but the wisdom here is that ANY other brand WILL fail sooner rather than later. Most failed gaskets are aftermarket brand; most dealer gaskets are replaced not because of a failure, but because they were taken off for some other reason. Go to http://www.thepartsbin.com and find them, ishino brand, theyre under 5 bucks for the pair, plus shipping. Maybe 15 total, should have it in under a week. Or, go to the local subaru dealer and take your chances with availability and price; My local place wanted like 9 bucks each and I still had to wait but I live in S. Florida so my experience doesn't mean yours will be bad.. but it may, its a dealership :-p I know some places AREN'T expensive and DO stock them, but I don't know your people. Were you watching the temperature gauge when it crapped out all the coolant? Did the car heat up at ALL? Over half way, say? If it hit the red zone, or even got close, there is a chance you will develop a headgasket issue. That chance depends on how hot the car got, among other things (like history, etc) that aren't as important. If it pegged the gauge, chances are nearly 100%. If it was, say, 1/8 inch below the red, chances are pretty good that you're OK, maybe 1 in 10 (give or take) EDIT (just looked at the pics again:grin:) someone NEEDS to convert a full blown RX into the four-eye setup like this... Especially if that conversion could be retrofitted with quad HID projector lights...... it would look INSANE!

your probly already gone, but was it latitudinal play (a bit o' the ol' in-out, in-out) or rotational play (round and round we go!)? condolences.

This topic has me scratching my head. It makes perfect and utter sense that the Japanese market would be FAR less maintenance prone, and I have always wondered just that. The NZ/OZ experience seems to be that crate motors from japan are of dubious value. However, I have NEVER heard a peep about a problem with a japanese pull engine from anyone stateside. Could the problem lay in differing expectations or different care taken on used motors, or is this considered more or less "common knowledge" down under? It would be GREAT if we could get lots of response here regarding experiences.. It could well be that there is some qualitative difference in the engines that get sent South, and the engines that get sent East....

No one can guarantee anything. This is real life, things go wrong that aren't anticipated. Sea foams label directions tell you that it is safe for use in the crankcase of the engine. Thats good enough for me. I put it in my oil, ran 3500 miles, then drained it. Haven't had any problems since then, and that was a good 8000 miles ago. You are putting 6 ounces of liquid into your oil. (how much MMO does one use? never done it) Whether that liquid is MMO or seafoam, both are thinner than the motor oil and so will dilute it somewhat. 6 ounces of sea foam into 4.5 gallons of oil is 6 into 576. It isn't going to make your oil watery.

the single best application of sea foam is to detach the vacuum line that feeds the brake booster, on the booster end. Pour 6 ounces of sea foam into a jar or something that you can put the vacuum line down into. Put your thumb over the end of the tube. Have a friend start the engine, remove your finger from the tube, (warn your friend to be ready to give it a little gas so it doesnt stall.) Use the vacuum line to suck up the sea foam; it won't take long. Immediately shut the engine off. (no harm done if you burn some, it just works through soaking.) Let the engine sit for five or ten minutes, and then go for a VERY spirited drive, and watch all the carbon and soot and other combustion byproducts and contaminants that had infiltrated your combustion chambers, and pretty well anywhere the sees manifold vacuum, BURN AWAY in a foul cloud of smoke. I do this once every six months or so, if possible. The in fuel, and oil treatments are less frequent in my book.

some on-car shots As I said, the black wings I brushed are icky icky. The look is great though. EDIT BTW, am I sagging a bit in the back there?? Especially on the driver's side? The ride is tolerable, as long as I don't got 40 over bumps, so I haven't paid much attention, but it sure LOOKS awful.

I am painting the hubcaps. I gave them a good coat of wal mart rattlecan silver the other day, touched that up today and started the lettering. I want to paint part of the "wings" black, but I need to spray them, then mask them and re spray the silver in that area, because masking it any other way is a biatch. Pics: All four: The best one still silver: I painted the sections of the wings on one corner of this one, the shadow kinda screwed it up but the look I want is there. Fixing this botch job is gonna be hard. I tried using the same Testor's black model paint I used for the lettering, and it came out.. so so. It was an attempt to avoid having to mask and spray the black, and once I started I went ahead with the whole corner. And these two are the road rash ones, they came out the worst because I did no sanding or smoothing beforehand. BFD, if you ask me.

wholly, totally, utterly incompatible. Completely different sizes of everything. Absolutely, no. Just being clear This is coming from someone who has seen (via internet) a Datsun L-series inline six block (Z-car) running on a cylinder head made from three sections of two different 240SX (dohc) cylinder heads, so if it MAYBE could be done I would say so. It can't. The alternator, maybe power steering pump and AC compressor, MAYBE starter if you were REALLY inventive, MIGHT could be retrofitted, with work and to varying degrees of gain.. but nothing in the engine itself.

Bump. Radio shack sucks anymore. I replaced the trip comp display with one thats legible... but it still doesn't light up. I went to radio shack and they were USELESS, I did NOT have this number handy but somehow my guess is the guys in there would just look at me funny... Maybe not. In any case, anyone else have any other solutions to this problem? I may go back in armed with the number beataru supplied me with here.. but I dunno. thx