daeron

post belongs in newer gen. sorry, i am legacy retarded, so i cant help. posting in the newer gen forum will yield better results.

check the voltage while you pull a spark plug wire. THAT will DEFINITELY cause rich exhaust fumes, and if that isnt above .5 volts then you need a new sensor. Just ask for the cheapest bosch-style single wire sensor; mine was a bosch piece and cost me 17 bucks.

http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html

How????? My Ac selector switch is totally buggered, the ears for the mounting screws are all rent asunder and I have the parts I need, just not the gumption to tear into it when I can make my switch work for me... but lately the switch has been failing once in a while, so if I can do it THIS way I just might go for it.

get the blue car found here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80666 in yelm from markjw. Find an EA82 in the boneyard with SPFI and a d/r 5speed. Do it. My strongest advice is, if you CANNOT get a parts car then it probably isn't worth it all in the long run, because all that WILL nickel and dime you pretty bad... restoring an old car is not cheap, even doing a "rough and ready" restore like you are talking about... the only sane and practical way to do it is via a parts car, ESPECIALLY when you start talking about cluster swaps, etc... BUT, the soobie is the car to go with. They are inexpensive and abundant where you are, functional, and economical, and you obviously already have a "thing" for them, so in the end it is your call.

I wound up buying my fel pros from autozone in store to avoid paying shipping, and the total came to just a hair more than the 17 apiece advertised online. For my buck, autozone gets a gold star or three.. I can CERTAINLY deal with low competence levels for the consistently low prices they deliver, and as far as customer satisfaction goes, they blow Advance (Discount) out of the water. Autozone is certainly a buyer beware type store, but if you are wary it is EASY to get good parts on the cheap through them. The chain I am REALLY grateful for is a local mom and pop chain called Congress Auto parts.. they ROCK, their prices are NOT premium, and their service is unparalleled. On top of that, their website gives you an anonymous login to what essentially is an in store, behind the counter computer terminal... so if you can read through a LITTLE bit of jargon, you can look everything they sell up online, and check quantities on hand in each store, etc... The best part about the place is, when I need nuts and bolts, or hose clamps, or reasonable amounts of fuel or heater hose, its free. Every time.

happy flippin 2000 posts, too.. this was 1999, yer next one puts you in the third millenium club!

if it runs acceptably, and needs tires and some TLC, on craigslist, $500 obo. if it doesnt run quite right, selling it on CL is a hard sell.. period. Under 500 as a posted asking price, and again, OBO. Use a phrase like "better beater than a honda civic, toyota, nissan, ford escort, cavalier" or something like that just to get more search hits. Good luck.. as others have said, you're going to need it to wring much money out of that car.

SPFI I assume.. Check the IAC (Idle Air Controller) mounted on the front of the throttle body. They can get gummed up over time, and that could cause your idle problem right there. 17 volts is too high; check the battery voltage with a multimeter while the car is on, and then check the battery for AC voltage when the car is on. AC voltage == bad rectifier diodes, replace alternator (or rebuild, if you're savvy) The oil pressure sender is puzzling.. how sure are yuo that you swapped in a good sending unit? I'm not saying NOT to get a junkyard part for this.. but swapping in a junkyard part, only to still have the problem, does NOT mean that the problem is in the wiring, you dig? What did you adjust on the idle flow?? the throttle drum set screw should not be played with; it is NOT an adjustment of any sort. To set the idle properly, make sure the timing is set dead on at 20* with the green plugs connected, and tweak the adjustment screw slowly. (I'm drawing a TOTAL blank on the actual adjuster screw right now.. I wanna say its on the driver's side of the TB but I truly cannot recall right now.) The big thing I wanted to tell you was that the screw that stops the throttle drum is NOT an adjustment; if you fiddled with it, it needs to go back to its original location before trying to set the idle.

Shhhh!!! I was messing with his head. Sorry, i dont know how i made that mistake. The sad thing is, I thought it through twice before I said that.

leave car on ground. Insert breaker bar into plug so tthat the bar points towards about eight o clock, if you squat behind the car looking forwards. Put the jack under the end of the breaker bar, and jack up, lifting the end of the breaker bar with half a ton (whatever the weight on the rear axle is) of force.

get a windshield and be braced to discover potential problems. If its rusted under the windshield, you will know when the old one comes out. Good luck.

don't forget, you can always get a new rear diff cover from a junkyard, WORST case scenario. Don't be afraid, just beat it, or jack it up.

no telling. Water will drip straight down, and when it encounters an obstacle, that obstacle moves it. Heat the car up, get a laser pointer, and point around the front of the engine on that side looking for steam or mist. When the coolant is hot and pressurized, it should be squirting out; a laser makes it easy to find.

Craziest Bullstuf I have ever seen. After posting in this thread last night, I went in to work today.. I just started delivering pizzas again, and on my second run tonight I passed another guy from our store... sitting in the middle of the road, cop behind him, Jeep Cherokee on the side of the road... and my co-worker's rim was sitting right in from of the Jeep!!! On my way back by I stopped to see if I could help (jack, lugnuts, etc) and apparently, it was a futile effort... FOUR of the five lug studs on his car (late model Sentra) SHEARED OFF!!!!!! I have NEVER seen anything like that. Poor bugger, I felt REALLY bad for him because obviously his rim hit another car... there goes his insurance!

well, you COULD drill the ball joints out, tap them, and put grease fittings on.. if you an overzealous lunatic...

been there, done that. Crazy feeling when your wheel bounds off in front of you, aint it? My problem was improper lugnuts, being used on the advice of my elders. From that day forward, I stopped believing my dad, uncle, and big brothers all "knew everything."

THATS nothin' About ten, twelve years ago, here in West Palm, two employees of a Builder's Square (sorta like home depot, I dunno if they are still around anywhere else but they arent here anymore) were involved in a dispute. They decided to put their money where their mouths were, and wagered $20 on it. They tested out their dispute on the floor, in the middle of the aisle where the product in question was kept. The dispute was this... "Mineral spirits aren't FLAMMABLE! Duh!!" The store burned to the ground, and it contributed to the decision to bulldoze the mall that was adjacent to it and build a new huge strip mall. To this day, you can talk to anyone else who lived here are the time and just smile, and say "Mineral spirits don't burn!!" and you get a laugh.

we have to "submit" it. DOne and done.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=660032&postcount=7

TOD is hydraulic lash adjuster ("lifter") noise. You understand that the camshaft opens the valves, right? the camshaft hits whats called a rocker arm, which is a lever that hits the valve on the other end. The pivot point for the rocker arms is called the las adjuster; "lifter" on older engines (solid pivot) or the "Hydraulic lash adjuster" or HLA on newer engines. Solid ones need to be set at a certain height, and checked every 10K miles. Hydraulic ones are basically powere by oil pressure. They tick because they aren't being pressed snugly against the camshaft. This is caused by low pressure inside the adjuster itself. There are a few possible reasons for this. 1. Something is clogging the orifice on the HLA itself, causing the check ball to stick open and keeping pressure from building up inside. <-- THIS is the one that is "treated" by addind ATF, MMO< or Seafoam to your oil.. the thinking is, flush the gunk out. 2. You simply have low oil pressure. This is remedied by replacing or resealing your oil pump. 3. Something is clogging an oil passage somewhere. This is commonly a failure of the Cam Case O-ring, which was initially a plain rubber O ring, but in ~88 Subaru started using metal-reinforced O rings. The O ring can get sucked into the oil passage, causing air bubbles to form, and air bubbles compress much easier than oil. USually TOD is caused by some combination of the above problems. Low oil level is also a common problem, but that is easy to fix and something tells me you've *probably* already checked that. HTH, try flushing it again. In any case, it is a very common issue to have come-and-go TOD, and it CERTAINLY is no fatal flaw with your motor.

get a mechanic's stethoscope and hunt around for the leak. A piece of tubing will do in a pinch.

honestly, those are bitmap images I made from hitting "print screen" while viewing the applicable pages of the FSM in the partial PDF fragment.. and I didn't notice that I left that out, odd. The more I think about it, I THINK I was only after wheelbase figures for some odd reason? I dunno. here.

Thats because the spare is a spare. Lesson learned, young padawan? :-p

mine were done for free, but $70 total was the price I had been quoted by the guy. Fortunately, his stepson is a good friend of mine (his stepson actually did the milling after hours) and my uncle has had thousands of dollars in engine work at his shop on the Roadsters, so my milling was pro bono.. but 120, 140 for the pair is not AWFULLY uncommon.. just high. BUT, none of us discussing this are in the canadian market, so who knows. Any more would be absurd gouging IMO. Since GD basically re-affirmed everything I said EXCEPT the exhaust port cracks, I wanted to repeat that. I am sure GD agrees with what I said about them; chances are that they aren't as common on the non turbo engines so he didn't even mention it. If you had a compressor and tools, I would fly up there and do your headgaskets for $800, and I would buy my own tickets. I could use the extra money, and it would be worth it.