daeron

I would rather replace my timing belts again, than change my turn signal relay again. Well, let me say, change it on another soob.. I left mine dangling so that if I ever DID have to change it again it wouldnt be so #$^$ hard to find...

I have only heard of this one dude, and I havent even read his words, I have read OF him.... anyone else out there thats run non Subaru XT6 PS fluid yet? sooner or later its gonna HAVE to happen....

unless you have problems with your coil, i wouldnt see any need to replace it. It is not an incredibly common problem point, and when its bad it tends to be bad. NGK plug wires would also be acceptable, magnecors are maybe an over the top measure. your distributor is an hitachi, but I dont recall ever actually seeing and hitachi cap or rotor.. but whatever. As long as you get the right part for the right distributor you're golden. Dont use a Fram oil filter, heh.. Fuel filter(s?) and air filter is also part of a good, thorough tune up. Wix is a good, top shelf brand of filter to use, if available.

Wow, I was gonna suggest some rouge or jewlers compound before I got to the end of the thread, but you beat me to it. That looks friggin awesome, man... Big applause! Fantastic results, and a great learning experience. Good job to whoever may have been helping you along on this.. the only way it could look any more perfect is more time spent on the rougher ceutting to get a more uniform surface to polish. Port work like this is all a matter of removing material in stages; first in big steps, then gradually decreasing. First steps are done dry, but at any stage adding oil, water, or compound to your "bit" (be it grinding stone or cloth polishing wheel) will help slow the cut, make it more even AND usually extend the life of your bit/wheel. Now can you see how easy it is for people to polish up aluminum valve covers? those things can, for the right engine, fetch a pretty penny when polished up nice. the covers on the soob are kinda out of the way, so its a bad example, but a valve cover for my Datsun 280Z can go for 150 or more on ebay, if nicely polished. I have a pile of about thirty of them. Think how much money could be made from that. Its normally the sort of thing that is only worth working on for yourself though. That, or you become a professional.

looks great!!!!

name brand dremel is an excellent investment.. it is a FAR more precise machine than the harbor freight tools. If you are going to do porting work, its important to have a smooth surface when you are done. and you cant REALLY accomplish that with a cheapo "dremel"

Sounds pretty likely... most of that stuff should either look right or wrong, and it sounds "wrongish" if you ask me

Even if the cap and rotor are recent it is ALWAYS a matter of course to pop the cap off and inspect inside, pull plugwires and pull plugs to inspect them. What do the plugs look like? Their appearance can speak volumes, and even if they looke fine (tell you nothing) it is telling you something. It is also a matter of course to check the TPS wire and connection, and check the output while its running.. Someone gave me a good idea for a test for catalytic converters that I am going to shamelessly spread.. Get a Shop-Vac, use that at the end of the exhaust pipe.. If you stick the vacuum hose into the exhaust, (try your best to "seal" it) you should not hear the vacuum cleaner laboring.. a clogged cat will sound as if you had simply blocked the vacuum hose end with your hand.

Stack of FSMs: $40 on Ebay. Brindle "mutt" dog: They ACTUALLY will give these amazing dogs away at the pound for adoption fees, or free!! Hot Pink Collar: $10 having more drool stains on your shop manuals than grease stains: priceless.

Wow, I miss Appalachia..... luv my swamps, though, so its a trade off.. THAT, is a very interesting story!! I am also not into off-roading at all, in an active sense.. You could call my interest "tangential" because its cool and all..I have been exposed and know people who go mudding all the time, but I have other things that take up my time and effort, you know? but I suspect that may also change if I had an abandoned town that was perpetually on fire that close to my house. Thanks for this thread!

what was the problem with the car?

sounds to me like theres a wire thats broken between the driver window switch, and the window relay under the passenger seat.

Do it the other way around, thru vacuum line first, then add to fuel (well, maybe add it to your fuel FIRST, so that its in the fuel you are burning while doing the vacuum line procedure) and then, if you feel like it, add to your oil about 500 miles before an oil and filter change. Its good stuff, unless you are experiencing an abnormal amount of the Tick Of Death, I would recommend just sucking up half the bottle into a vacuum line and pour half the bottle in 6-8 gallons or so of gas.. in other words, maybe overdo it on the volume sucked into intake, and over concentrate it in the gasoline, just a little bit. Gives it a little more kick.

is it a subaru gasket set?? Subaru OEM brand intake manifold gaskets are the only ones you can rely on. It is one of those parts you simply cannot trust even the best aftermarket manufacturer with. BTW, yes, that was what he was talking about.. the gaskets between the intake manifold and the cylinder heads.

How lightweight could you get an XT??????????? IE, lightest curb weight from factory, i guess for say a DL??? how heavy was the 6?? anyone have a scan of that page from an FSM?

as posted above, and search for posts by loyale 2.7 turbo that say window, he had a decent write up on how to access and clean or replace the power window relay somewhere. the power window relay is underneath the passenger seat, usually the switches or the relay are to blame for problems like this.. switches for non functioning, relay for slow going.

I somehow missed the "complicated" remark. its not really that complex, once you get the FSM and learn what all the little bits are. do you have the .pdf files already? Basically, just break the engine bay down into subsystems.. take out the alternator, and the power steering piump, and the AC compressor because you know what all those are. Next, you know what a distributor is, so take that and the coil out of the picture, too. You are left with the fuel injection manifold, fusible link block, timing belt, water and oil pumps on the front of the engine, and the radiator. All still very obvious and easy to figure out. The rest of the components on the edges are peripheral bits that function with what I have already taken off, OR with the Fuel Injection.. The Fuel Injection is basically, a throttle body with an injector in it, a fuel pressure regulator on the side of it, an idle air control valve on the front of it, and a throttle position sensor on one side of the throttle shaft. Beyond that there are two solenoid valves on it, the thermostat housing with the coolant temperature sensor for the ECU in it AND the temp sending unit for the gauge.. a MAF sensor, a filter box, an EGR valve and several vacuum lines. There is also the computer inside the cabin, a vehicle speed sensor and a couple of gear sensors that input into the ECU so it knows what the car is doing. The transmissions and drivelines are pretty basic and elementary in their design and layout, as is the chassis electrical system. There is only so much you can simplify these aspects of a vehicle, and many manufacturers made cars just as "simple and easy" as subarus in this department. Somewhere underneath all that is this: That is the shortblock, minus EVERYTHING but the water pump, oil pump, and power steering pump. No cylinder heads, intake, nothin. The black thing underneath it is my oil sludge covered crossmember.. I figured why clean that, the oil is keeping it from and all the bolts from rusting. This is the fuel intake, unplugged from everything and removed from the car. Everything I mentioned in my Fuel Injection paragraph above is pictured here other than the MAF, ECU and associated "interior" sensors, and filter box/plenum. More images from my headgasket job can be found here: http://s130.photobucket.com/albums/p249/tardaeron/Head%20Gasket/ Unfortunately, I forgot my camera on Re-Assembly day, or else I would have done a full write up. You also get to see me with a beard. How many cars can be more or less totally broken down analytically in three short paragraphs? If you want the same details and resources I used to teach myself all that.. the first was my subaru. the second was the USMB, and the third was found here, its the two partial 89 FSM files.

Find yourself a thick walled pipe about three feet or longer, large enough in diameter to slip over a breaker bar. These are called cheater bars, and no garage is complete without an assortment of cheater bars of various lengths and strengths. You know how to take two combination wrenches and use one on the end of the other to gain leverage, right? If not I will take a photo for you, easier than trying to explain. all I can think of, but I am not the right guy to ask.

it IS an identical sensor.. its just that one is sensing manifold absolute pressure and one senses atmosphere "absolute" pressure. but why dicker about it?

Im still laughing at that.. How did you find a way to compliment me on that photo, outside of the nice green grass in mid december?

I love these threads and Most of us!!!! The one thing I forget to mention in my first post (this thread is already up to 38 posts since I made the third reply at 4 am!?! wow!) These cars are like, made out of Legos.. but we wound up with all the COOL bits!! The crankshaft points the right way, the gearboxes and driveline are there for either economy or brute force.. the cars are similar enough to Nissans that many parts can be interchanged (I STILL want to look into starter swaps, if for no other reason than for ease of finding parts for older Datsuns, the alternators are virtually the same casing Hitachis, the rear diffs are interchangable, lots of switches.. I am even debating trying dual SPFI TBs on a Datsun Roadster with MS to fuel inject one for reliability) Just think back to playing with legos, and how awesome playing with Legos could be if you had the cool pieces to integrate into your creation, compared to just having the blocks and flats from a normal set... and that is where we are!! AWD for street, 4wd for offroad, front mounted, rear engine layout.. even tho "2wd" meand "front wheel drive", we have SPFI, MPFI, turbos, EVERYTHING you could want except factory diesel! AND ALL FOR THE LOW, LOW, PRICE OF.... well, you get the point. dimes on the dollar compared to ANY other make or model with similar features. HAIL FUJI!

IM the one from the south! You guys LOST!!! remember?? :-p (PLEASE don't take this very seriously, heh)

minimal effort.. grey rattlecan primer. one of these days I will do more, but for a long time I had to reach in that hole to open the gas door.. hence the tie wire you see. I may clean the rust off the metal and throw some fiberglass matt over the holes once I get into doing the same stuff on my Datsun.. ..but the money demon plagues, and the holes are low priority.

Another XT6 story from me... My dad caught my older brother sneaking out and driving the XT6 around because he kept tabs on his trip computer trip odometer, and the average speed. He played with it alot because he had a 50 mile commute to work, at 60-70 mph, through rural mountain highways in NC. That is why he bought the XT6. My brother would go out and joyride at two, three in the morning sometimes.. and thats not what made my dad angry. He was craftier than that; He started resetting the average speed on the trip computer every time he got home at night, and checking it the following morning. He started seeing average speeds of 60, 70+ mph on trips that my brother took that were like, 10 miles long. My brother got into big trouble for breaking 100 in the 6 before he even had his license. I know how fast and how quick that car is; my dad chose it over a turbo 300ZX when he bought the car, and he was a Z-guy since they came out with the things. I just wish I had memories of the car that extended beyond age 13