daeron

Oh man, you haven't even gotten baptized yet if you are just talking about ATF in the steering reservoir.. but it is obvious what you are trying to talk about, the mystique of this community built around these weird little studies in trapezoids... It is alot like the old Volkswagen crowd; I have known a couple of "volkswagen guys" who could take a beetle or an air cooled rabbit or a van and make it do all KINDS of insane things on a racetrack or on the street.. And these "volkswagen guys" were all the same kinda dude. Jesse James said something about it once on Monster Garage (for which he regained much respect he had lost in my eyes) and its just true. I think some members older than you and I can chime in to support this similarity; the "volkswagen guy" phenomenon is all but dead. We used to have a local VW parts dealer and junkyard that had over 50 bugs on a yard, on some ABSURDLY expensive real estate downtown, but they were there for years. Gone now, of course, but the community that those cars fostered blows this away. This old Soobie crowd is about as close as it comes, but now we gots Da InnernetzzZZz!!1!!!!! so things have changed just a little. Life is good in a Subaru

Agreed, the most potentially painful aspect of doing the headgaskets are frozen intake manifold bolts, and milling the heads.. Machine work is no big deal, and well, just.. Good luck with the intake manifold bolts. Mine were fine, but apparently they like to be stuck. Youwould be in for a little more mechanical work than in changing the motors, and a LOT less electrical work in re wiring the ignition system, replacing the fuel pump, and eliminating the ECU. I am sure that you could find a simple way to set it up to run with the carbed engine in the short term.. but if you want to try that, I could only recommend that you embark on the project with an FSM or two, and a thorough understanding of the contents before you begin. You are also liable to need some things from a donor vehicle, but I couldn't say off the top of my head. If you are thinking of this as a temporary running solution "until" you can fix the turbo motor, then it might be viable, but it IS likely to be less simple than one might think. Unless you already have all conceivable parts needed, though, it would likely be less expensive to replace the head gaskets on the turbo engine. What is up with the turbo engine that has you saying "may have a blown head gasket?

I didnt mean to bash the Six, as such.. Heck, The only way I can explain where I am coming from is to relate the pipe dream that I have of being able to find a 4 cylinder XT to swap an EJ into. When I read Loyale 2.7 Turbo's comment, I reacted. My bad! My comments about what happened in my early past, as I was beginning to understand what a car was, were an attempt to mollify grievance and explain why somewhere, predating any personal experience with a subaru, (I was eleven years old) I got a negative impression on the motor. For some reason the blown ER27 was hanging around in the shop for five or six years longer than he had the car; I don't even know in what capacity it was "blown" but he felt it warranted to get a new (used?) engine rather than repair the old. The 351 V8 in our Econoline blew at about the same time, we suspect a bad case of oil since we had just changed oil in both vehicles. Whatever. Given the readily available power from an EJ, and the ease of replacing an EA with an EJ, it seems to me to be a "best option." And you are all right, I've never driven the six.. but I was making a couple of argument points. Not stating die hard beliefs. Please don't take it as such because I had the maybe poor judgement to use an oversized font Honestly, the six is the engine that I would say belongs in the GL/loyale series.. That would bring the vehicle up to par with say, a Nissan Maxima or Toyota Cressida, even though the vehicle was smaller. I suppose an EJ accomplishes the same thing. To honestly state my opinion on the matter, if I had an XT6 I wouldn't be itching to swap the motor by any means!! BUT, I would CERTAINLY not be opposed to the idea if I had the opportunity. Let's just say that I think the XT is the vehicle that the EJ eas built for. As for the SVX motor, I discount the reality of that motor, because in all practicality I will probably NEVER see one. And THAT is where that was coming from. sorry to cause the

WHAT ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT?!?!? an EJ XT sounds like the most magical subaru of all, to me!! other than that, the JDM 2 door STI is the closest thing to a reliable subaru sports car there is!! I am sorry, I just cannot get over a prejudice regarding the ER27.. one of the first motors I ever saw get blown was the one in my dad's 6, and anyhow it just seems like a no brainer to drop in a DOHC 4 of lower displacement, yet more power, that has MORE aftermarket support.. You could lose the godawful XT6 space-age power steering system, and I mean.. Just, how can you SAY something like that?!?!??? AWD EJ XT FTW!

Basically I was suggesting using a pair of jumper cables in parallel with the regular battery cables.. one from positive batt terminal to positive starter terminal, one from negative battery terminal to the metal body of the starter. Screwdriver between the solenoid terminal and the hot cable. Was your key "on" when you tried to start it? If not, then there was no fuel pump and no spark coming from the coil, so it would never start. There are four possibilities: 1. Bad Positive Cable 2. Bad Negative Cable 3. Too much resistance in the keyswitch circuit, not allowing enough juice into the solenoid from your igniotion switch and 4. Bad solenoid (Autozone Schmautozone) *in steps 1 and 2, you can try using the key first; but if that fails I would recommend using the screwdriver or other "jumper" to the solenoid terminal. 1. If you rig up the jumper cables, turn key to on, use screwdriver and it works, but then fail to get a start after taking the positive jumper cable off, then you need a new positive cable. 2. Same thing as 1, but negative cable. (REALLY, for 10-15 bucks for a pair, its best to just replace the cables if you have any doubt; just get cables of the same gage or larger, and the same length. Too long is bad; too long may as well be not thick enough. 3. If THIS is the case, then you shouldnt need jumper cables at ALL to get the starter to work.. Try turning the key to "on," removing both jumper cables, and use a screwdriver to bridge between the positive cable end and the solenoid terminal. Instead of using the screwdriver, you could just use a jumper cable to go from the positive batter terminal to the solenoid terminal, but you just need to tap it and hold it against positive terminal while you are "starting" it. If you just clip both ends on, then the starter will not cut off; it will only cut off when you disconnect the power you are feeding into the solenoid terminal. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74632 that is what *I* did when my ignition switch was no longer getting enough power to my solenoid terminal to make it happen. Most people opt to simply use a pushbutton switch to power the solenoid terminal, but a relay is FAR FAR safer, more reliable, and less likely to fail in the future. 4. If you do the jumper cable thing, and have the key "on" and all you get is a spinning starter motor, but NO rotation of the engine, then you have a bad starter solenoid, Autozone Schmautozone. The good news is that any starter out of any EA82 car will work. They are NOT all the same, but they ARE All interchangeable. The automatic cars have the slightly beefier, gear reduction type starter (which is what I always prefer) but I am relatively certain that the starter that WAS on my car (3AT) was from a stick shift car. Junkyard FTW. If you are dirt broke, I managed to take my starter apart and put it back together, after cleaning all the contacts thoroughly and re greasing everything, and got three or four months of service delivering pizzas (IE, starting the car about thirty times a day) before it finally went to the big junkyard in the sky.

where in florida are you? not too many floridians here, and what with the huge, peninsular nature of this state we seem to be fairly well spread out.

Daeron's Householder Hint #45577: PC Keyboards clean up wonderfully after one trip through the dishwasher; No heated dry cycle, shake it out thoroughly and let air dry (ideally, disassembled) overnight just to be on the safe side. Nice to know the joke hit a nerve :-p

Yes, that was who it was. Thanks, I think that was before I came around these here parts.

Autozone, Scmautozone.. Make sure your negative battery cable is good (IE, jumper cable from negative post to engine ground) make sure your positive battery cable is good (jumper cable to BATTERY TERMINAL on starter) Then try the key. If the key will not start it, with all jumper cables still in place, try using a screwdriver (with the key "on) to touch the solenoid terminal and the positive cable terminal on the starter at the same time. This essentially bypasses the key and signals the solenoid to close, starting the car. If the key WILL start it, go down to the double star (**) and ignore the screwdriver comments. IF that makes the car start, try the screwdriver start **after taking the extra ground jumper cable off. If that still works, try it without the positive jumper cable. If that still works, then your problem lies in the iginition switch circuit. If taking either cable off makes it "bad" again, then you have isolated one bad battery cable. If none of this works, Don't go back to that autozone with electrical parts that need testing. I have a write up in the USRM about relays etc.. if the keyswitch is your problem you can rig up a pushbutton switch, but the safest and best way (least likely to fail in the future) is to use a relay. You can do this and still use the key to start the vehicle, or you can use a relay connected to an auxiliary switch. Post back with results.

Watch out!!!!! Calebz might find your lack of faith... Disturbing..... http://www.adultswim.com/video/?episodeID=8a25c392132b05a201132b15b5f80030

I almost never accelerate any way OTHER than "pedal to the metal." (Carpet in my case, its bunched up a little down there.) Call it a legacy of the fact that I drove a 280Z for five years before sitting down in the econobox.. or you could chalk it up to one of the best things my little brother ever said (about a honda, but it holds true across the board) But I NORMALLY rev the engine up to 5K or higher in first. Its the only way to make this little thing get out of its own way.

just adding my voice to the din of people saying "between the valve cracks are OK if you cant get your fingernail into them" Clean out the exhaust ports and make sure there are no cracks there. Anyone have a link to the technical bulletin that SOA put out saying these cracks are "Fine?"

awesome stories.. My buddy Justin, when I first met him, drove an old bronco II.. one of the first times I rode in it with him, he was talking about the lights in the dash and how they never came on anymore.. blah blah blah, "a while ago, it used to happen, but I could turn the lights off and back on like this..." He was about to say it would fix them, and his point was that this no longer worked to get them on.. but they came on. Somehow I KNEW about ten seconds before he even got to that point, exactly what he was going to show me, and I knew it was gonna work this time. 'lectricity. them dang electrons just wanna bury themselves in the dirt, and they'll take any path you can give em.

dude joking aside, nothing ever got that bad while he was here... I seriously believe he has something wrong with him that is getting worse.. this isnt just stupid here, this is a brain that is getting more and more short circuited as time goes on.... It makes me wonder quite seriously if he may have a tumor in his head (I was only half joking before) or if he is on some sort of major dope. This kind of BS doesn't "just happen" and he NEVER Got anywhere near that crazy here; I am honestly somewhat concerned about him. Only as concerned as I could be about a complete stranger half a continent away.. but still concerned. I am bowing out on this thread out of sheer pity for the guy...This is not natural.

Air conditioning, indeed! Image from an 86 XT, dug up courtesy of misledxcracker. Trip computer display and controls in the background, and (ironically enough) air conditioner controls in the foreground. Buttons on trip comp, from the white one on the left, are Reset, Avg. Speed, Arrive, Trip, Range, Alarm, Clock... but no outside temp! Things keep getting curiouser and curiouser.....apparently the trip computers in the XT(6) were just strangely varied in what they did and did not have?

I hear tell that it HAS been done (turboing a car with an SPFI computer) BUT all I know is that I went out on a limb and said it almost certainly can't be done about a month or so ago, and someone corrected me and said that it HAD, in fact, been done with moderate success, but I know nothing more about it. It can't be very simple, though.. I imagine you have to know the computer's workings in and out, and you might even need to wire in an additional injector to fire under boost.

You SHOULDNT see above about halfway, preferably more like 1/3 up.. (I have a digidash, so the temp gauges is TOTALLY different, but that seems to be consensus) If your needle is going all over the place, I would suspect the connection to the sending unit and the sending unit itself; but these "suspicions" are NOT diagnoses. Please do not take them as such. To check if the radiator may be clogged, feel across the surface of it with the engine hot. If you can feel a spot that is cooler than the rest, that means that area of the rad is plugged up; extensive clogged areas warrant a new radiator. When was the water pump changed last? how are your fans, are they both working right? make sure the electric one comes on when it gets warmed up. One cheap thing to replace that goes miles for "peace of mind" is the thermostat; I hear that the OEM one is the best hands down. At least it is easy to replace, if the Subaru part sets you back a good bit. PErsonally I do not run a thermostat, but I live in south Florida and "cold" means less than sixty degrees, "REALLY cold" means less than fifty. "Freezing" is just a metaphor. Even so, I have learned much in recent months that have convinced me to put "installing a thermostat" on the "to do" list, so I cannot recommend no T stat for anyone.

Agreed; what were the problems with the turbo engine??? The heads at least should be the same, right guys?? second the motions, 4 speed EAT, problems and difficulty but doable. 3AT, straight swap.. but there will be things on the car that complain (CEL wont work, will always be lit for instance) since you have ripped the computer's "body" out but not its brain.. the brain will get "phantom pains" and try to tell you that sixteen million things are going wrong.

FWIW, I tried counting out a zero to sixty time in my 3AT NA GL10, on what seemed to me to be a good flat grade, and got ten, maybe 10.5 seconds. I KNOW I can count seconds accurately.. I am within 1-2 seconds on a minute any time I ever try to "calibrate" myself. The ironic thing is, my brother had slapped one of those "zero to sixty in five minutes" stickers on the back of the thing, heh...

Dude, your car is gonna be so UNnaturally aspirated, even the headgaskets on the thing are gonna be blown!! wait.. maybe thats not entirely a GOOD thing, huh?

This was before I was air conditioned.. I was thirteen when the XT6 got repo'd, I didnt grow up and start my parent's bad habits until after high school.

I feel you, there. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123845

Werd.

Start a new thread for your problem, and begin at the beginning when searching for help. as a stab in the dark I will guess that your driver side timing belt is broken, but that is a VERY Random guess...and I made it to indicate that you havent given us anywhere near enough information on the problem itself to help us help you. All you did was tell us the parts you threw at it without testing them first. http://www.ch601.org/engines.htm find subaru EA82 and download both PDF files. that will help you in knowing how to test the ignition components, but post your own new thread with more background details to get some attention and actual help. The reason I said blown timing belt is because the disty is turned by the driver side camshaft, and so with a blown timing belt on that side the disty wont turn, and the crank angle sensor wont pulse, so the coil will never get a SIGNAL to fire. Your problem may well be something else.

I meant to tell you before, try picking up a can of seam foam deep creep. I know that Rost-Off is usually some REALLY good stuff, but I haven't used it very much myself... I DO know that sea foam deep creep makes PB Blaster look like Liquid Wrench.