daeron

Trucks are like mules. Cars are like horses.

In Jamaica? No Problem Mon!

1) Upgrading head lights to a better visual on roadway and astethic look. Have you taken a good amount of time and made sure they are well adjusted??? my 87 GL-10 has such incredibly nice headlights that any time I hear a member complain about them I get the inpression that either their healidghts arent aimed right, (which is something I encounter in about 85% of the vehicles i ride in, including those of my close friends) or there is some sort of wiring issue that is keeping full voltage from getting to the headlights. Make sure you have good battery cables, take the shourd off the steering column inside and check the wires for the headlight switch, check the wires are the headlight relay, and check any plugs between the relay and the headlight lenses. Make sure youre headlights arent dimmer than they should be; because if that is the case then installing higher powered ones is only going to cause more of a problem later on. Sure, your lights will be brighter.. but youre drawing even MORE electricity through a circuit that couldn't really support the stockers. 2) Add either and second set of head lights and or doing fog lights. if you do this, or if you wish to bypass the stock headlight wiring and install new wiring, myr USRM article on relays may well be of great assistance. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74632 3) Drop the front about and inch or so to give a little more aggresive stance. If you are adventurous, I believe the earlier (4wd? all?) GL style bodies, like 86 or so, had adjustable front struts...This is monkey read, monkey say; i have NEVER seen these and know nothing about them but you might try searching for them... Front Struts, RX Body Kit, maybe some "like-new" headlight lenses.. can you tell you are going to be in junkyards a good deal in the future looking for parts? 4) Try to add a few extra hp to it. Heh, good luck. People think that they get results from cutting some holes on the pre-filter side of the airbox, to let more air into the airbox.. but seriously, the major intake/exhaust restriction in these cars is at the cylinder heads, so nothing "easy" is going to make much difference. you could maybe open up the exhaust flow a little bit by doing something i won't really say outright to the catalytic converter.. (watch out for emissions people) but there isnt much. Dont even think about something like a K&N air filter; the stock air purolator filter cartridge is the same unit that a 300ZX breathes through. it is more than enough for the subaru. It's an economy Queen, not a power hog. 5) fix the cancer on it. ahhhh.. i don't know, my friend. that windshield area stuff is bad. 90% of the strength (or something like that) of the windshield to resist being shattered by the odd tiny rock (or coin, or solid object) comes from being evenly and properly supported around the entire perimeter of the piece of glass. I think to really repair the rust (just in this area) you would NEED to remove the windshield and ensure that the entire support valley is intact, and replace it if necessary. As for the rest of it.. Honestly, the process of repairing the cancer on this car is going to involve totally taking the interior apart and evaluating the rust from the inside as well. http://s130.photobucket.com/albums/p249/tardaeron/Subarust/ These cars rust. Sometimes, we have to be honest with ourselves and give up before we even start. I also have advanced rust at the bototom driver corner of my windshield, similar to what yours could look like in.. a year or five? I have no idea how quickly yours is getting worse but seriously.. (and I may be wrong) you NEED to do a total evaluation on this rust before you set to fixing some of it, because you have no idea what you are in for yet. That clean, white wagon, Bucky.. had awful awful frame rot in one of the rear seatbelt mounting points. She just had it welded back in.. but, Connie has got a LOT of rust repair work under her belt on that vehicle. Just submitting for your consideration. Please also note that that awful rustbucket I linked to is my daily driver and I adore it.. I anticipate driving it until one day, somehow, fate sends the wrong rock in the direction of my windshield and it shatters into a million tiny pieces. BTW my underbody and frame are great, mines all body rust, but the glass area rust is definitely terminal, eventually. 6) Better audio in it. read up about this. It is doable, the loyale is easier than the earlier cars, but i think that you will need to add wires for rear speakers. i BELIEVE the loyales all had full DIN sized stereos, didnt they? I know the earlier cars had small stereos, and they are difficult to install an aftermarket unit into. Doable, but it takes a certain effort. Also, if you DO have rear speakers, there is a good chance that there is a floating ground system; the front and rear channels share the grounds, and modern stereos wont work right like that. Again, this IS how it works on the older cars and i think anything with a factory four channel stereo. 7) Change tires to a bigger size (read somewhere a peugot 504 or 505 will fit as bolt on or slight moddifaction replacment) Well, I run 185/70 13s on mine, they were 175/70s stock.. and I noticed a pretty serious difference in road stability.. i wasnt buffeted around by the wind so much. Peugeot (or pug) wheels are a common upgrade, the only "modification" necessary is for tires of an outside diameter larger than 27" (which i don't think you will want, you seem more of a street driver than an offroader) You DO need special lugnuts, or adapters, to use the pug rims, but that is is. (as a side note what is a good mpg for early 90's loyales) i have a 3at and i get about 25MPG driving like a lunatic. people with 3 speed 2wds frequently can get into the 35 mpg range... but it all depends on driving style and driveline differences.

unless your gasket set included fel pro permatorque (or subaru OEM) head gaskets, and subaru OEM intake manifold gaskets, you need to source those. IMO, the head gasket set isnt worth it, since a pair of FP perma torques can be had for 40 bucks shipped from autozone.com and the OEM mani gaskets about 10-15 shipped from thepartsbin.com thepartsbin also has the metal reinforced cam case o rings. REALLY, outside of that, water pump, oil pump (replace or reseal) and timing belts, T-belt tensioner/idler bearings (easily sourced at a bearing supply store, much cheaper than auto parts sellers) along with any oil seals (might as well) would probably be about all you need.

well, actually needing a rebuild on a shortblock (the term for the engine minus intake, exhaust, accesories, and cylinder heads) is a rather rare thing for an NA vehicle... it typically takes something extreme like running out of oil to really torpedo the bottom end. As for the general "mechanicness" of the car, since it is SPFI (single point fuel injection) ninety percent of what is liable to go wrong is electrical in some sense or another... im getting a good vibe that you are already well enough on your way, and that this is the car for you. Harbor Freight, the store I mentioned, is a tool store not an auto parts store. they sell super cheap tools from china; you DO get what you pay for but for an amateur mechanic, for some rarely used tools, you quite frankly cannot beat the price. if you use it once and throw it away sometimes it is worth it.. Kragen should be able to get you a compression checker (they arent local to me, ive never really heard of them outside of car forums, and napa is a different beast here than it is elsewhere, they are about the worst store ever down here, and only survive on business from people up north somewhere, who are used to having good napas...) but i have no idea how much they would charge for it, and if they are anything like pep boys or advance auto parts, chances are it wouldnt be a much higher quality unit than the harbor freight piece. google harbor freight tools and check out their website; seriously, the store is like a daydream because of all the equipment and tools that they have for so little... even though they arent the best quality by a long shot. Most swear by NGK plugs for all jap cars.. I personally hate all things bosch that arent high end electrical components; if it costs less than 30 bucks, i dont really trust bosch to do a good job. (okay, the windshield wipers are pretty damn impressive, but thats IT.) BUT normal bosch plugs arent incredibly widely known for causing problems or anything. sometimes the split fires or the four prongy ones have had bad reports... but not single point plugs, i dontt hink.

Heh, no BS I thought the same thing earlier before I made my last post in this thread..... about the dude on the bike, not the mud. not that im disagreeing about the mud...

have you given any thought to making something of a bull bar center piece / cage for your winch? Between the no grill/radiator and the bumper going upwards to clear the winch, it just kinda looks like its missing its teeth in the middle.. GREAT looking work, though. these cars need a good powerful jawbone up front or else they look goofy..

http://ch601.org/engines.htm EA82 FSM files available there, includes the SPFI system breakdown, diagnostic and repair procedures. all the info you need. its in part 2. don't worry that its an 89 manual, its all the same as long as the parts are (ie, hotwire AF versus flapper AFM)

That is "the classic EA82 BTV crack." (between the valves) it happens, you are probably fine. However, your intake manifold needs to be torqued down to factory specs (cant recall right now, something like 17-20 pounds) by all three bolts, gradually, using a subaru brand gasket (dry is perfectly fine) or else you will have problems sooner or later. My guess is its happening now. You need to get that broken bolt out, and either drill out the bolt and save the original threads, or just overdrill and helicoil the threads, and then reinstall your manifold with a new set of OEM gaskets or you will lose water. I may be wrong, but I doubt it. I don't typically make statements this adamant unless the case presented is one of the "typical" ones and this has intake gasket written all over it.

heh I saw a red loyale the other day in traffic. last older gen soob i saw on the road was about a year ago.. before that, probably another year (and THAT one had NY tags!)

(havent clicked the link, im assuming this is the rustoleum/tremclad paintjob using the high density foam rollers, etc?) its been done over at hybridZ.org a WHOLE lot... im surprised it hasnt caught on here sooner. top notch results seem to be had, and any future repairs are as easy as sanding the area down and giving it a couple of coats... Colors can be tinted at the store where you purchase the paint; they have tints that work in all of their paints. Still, for something like that it might be best to splurge a little.. I see no reason this should even be looked at as a sub-par idea.. alot of folks have been diluting it and using it in HVLP guns just like regular auto paint and having the same success. the wetsanding and the multiple coats is still important. Honestly, a GREAT DEAL of experimenting has been done over at hybridz.org.. I will try to find a couple of links to the threads for y'all.

poor gauge grounding can also apparently cause the voltage dependent "temp spike" on the gauge... but this is "internet parroting" and not something I have experienced. Low water level can cause pump cavitation when you turn the heater on; I experienced this alot... i had a bad headgasket blowing cylinder compression into my radiator, it ran okay and wasnt contaminating anything so i drove like that for about six months before i could do the HGs.. Also, there is a possibility that a clogged heater core might cause an issue along these lines... I would call it more of an outside possibility, but it is easy enough to disconnect both hoses, hook a garden hose up to one end, and blast it out (carefully, of course.. pressure can kill..) HTH

then thermostat. Check your AC condensor and make sure it isnt obstructing airflow to the radiator.

sounds like you want the cat to ''blend in'', too..

hmm... well, maybe its absurdly higher... i was told by one mod that there is a 365 day lockout, and basically if all the lockouts are met then it unlocks; donating unlocks it instantly. anyhow, after all this i feel like a bum, but i been broke this whole time, i swear!!

oh my god, it would figure that on a self professed useless thread [no offense to the OP] i would go and make a comment like this.... and it was my post number 2470. 24/7..

incorrect. donate, or wait one calendar year. it does take a minimum number of posts, too.. either 500 or 1000, but i hit that way before a year. i have no life, heh.

i bet you a thousand dollars that the engine is not bad just based on your story. a couple of points come to mind. please pardon the lack of capitalization, and certain punctuation marks, as my shift keys are somehow haywire right now... 1. do you have the emissions test data for your car/// for // please read a question mark, my shift keys arent working.... the readout on exactly what kind of emissions your car is emitting would be helpful in knowing where to begin here. 2. what brand of spark plugs// most recommend ngk's, as do i, and i have almost never gotten an ngk spark plug that was more than 0.05 away from what they are supposed to be gapped at.. 0.40. quite honestly, the gap should literally ''look'' exactly right.. and chances are that they were fine. however, a gap checking tool is only .99 at the parts counter.. a very worthy investment, which i use on every spark plug i examine, even though i already know when it is right or wrong. spark plug gap is more important at the threshold of performance; not the standard of economy. 3. http//ch601.org/engines.htm click there, find subaru ea82 fsm sections. it is only the engine and fuel injection sections, but it is still a major assistance to someone in your shoes. 4. you say your dad can do work on the car with/for you/// then, let me give you some advice.. search the forum for answers to your questions along the way, work on it with him.. [get him to help you, rather than do it for you] and pay attention ask him questions, ask us questions, and read anything that seems like it might ever be relevant to your car. most of these subarus were 95 percent identical if they looked the same anyhow.. [85 gl = 94 loyale] so about half of the posts in this particular sub forum are regarding issues that may be relevant with your car [outside of turbo posts, and posts about driveline combinations other than what you have, ] i say this because i was born and raised a car guy/shadetree mechanic. i know how i learned, and it really is the best way.. working on it, with assistance and advice from someone who knows what they are doing. 90 percent of us learned that way.. the rest went the hard way and taught themselves.. made all their own mistakes, rather than learning from the mistakes of others. [not to say that we dont all make our own mistakes just to be stubborn, heh] just over two years ago i confessed to my dad that i had finally been overwhelmed, and realized that there was just way too much to the whole 'car' thing for me to really grok properly.. a boat, i can grok, a boat motor, i can grok, but i think the sum and total of diagnosing and keeping a whole car on the road may be a bit too much for me.. then i got my subaru. it is a wonderfully simple vehicle, and the breakdown of the 'car' into its various simpler subsystems is readily apparent. the way the car is engineered just makes sense, over and over again. so many things are so easy to do.. the most difficult job i have had on my subaru was replacing the turn signal blinker. i did the headgaskets in march; that was WAY easier than the turn signal relay. took a little longer, but not much.. the flasher took me two hours of searching to find, and there are others who still havent found it.... but *everything* else is easy. this car and this forum will teach you how to work on cars, if you approach it right. hope this helps, and reply with answers about your car so we can get you on the right path. what you have been told simply does not add up. there are easy diagnostic procedures that you can do with a minimum amount of tools, and if you can find a harbo freight store near you then there is a source of cheap tools like compression testers that can allow you to do even greater diagnostics and repair.. a few inexpensive purchases at harbor freight greatly increse the utility of a standard socket/wrench/screwdriver/pliers toolkit. good luck

thanks, gd. I often forget that people exist who wouldn't know this simple fact, because when i first saw the symbol the first thing thought was, "well, that is one good way to type a not equals sign on a keyboard...'' My apologies for my lack of clarity, it was thoughtless of me.

Problem #1 with me and tattoos... hair. I am not as hairy as an ape yet... but within ten years I shall be. I am sorry, i REFUSE to shave body fur.... so there isnt much "real estate" for me to choose from. Problem #2 has always been what to get. I've considered Daeron in runic type letters (its something of an alter ego) and I've considered a celtic cross.. I like the idea of getting a crosshairs, a target, or a bullethole in the top of my foot () Also BRIEFLY considered a tattoo of a mirror image of the words SLOWER TRAFFIC KEEP RIGHT on my forehead, just for laughs... but I cant decide. cant decide!! CANT DECIDE, BRAIN ANEURYSM!!! so between my reluctance to get something embossed into my skin in indelible ink, and my reluctance to keep the area follicle-free, I am somewhat limited in any ink ambitions. If it were a car logo, though, it'd be a wordless datsun logo, on the upper arm. Sorry folks, my first love must come first. The pleiades themselves might work for a tat, but not a soob logo pleiades... it would have the logo within it in some sense, but it would be a pleiades tattoo.

Well, my hope was honestly that they might be more common original equipment in europe than in the states.. maybe the threads like that are standard on a Fiat or something, i dont know... I DO know that junkyards are fewer and farther between over there (real estate values in the old world are NOT something that us "colonists" can comprehend ) but, do you have any mechanic or parts desk people who know you and might be willing to help you do a little research?

Wow. I am sorry to inform you of this, but your soob has the dubious honor of being the first one I have ever seen pictures of that made me think "that looks almost EXACTLY like my car." http://s130.photobucket.com/albums/p249/tardaeron/Subarust/ for pictures, I will spare you the humiliation of posting pics of mine in your thread. Nice trailer, though.. I've always wanted to gut a wagon to make it into a one man camping vehicle. *just* enough space inside to sleep if its raining.

spit, sputter.. show car? its BEGGING for an EJ!! *I* am begging for an EJ XT! it REALLY goes to show you how little we think of our soobs as sports cars that it isnt a MUCH more common swap.. the XT was an AMAZING chassis, one of the finest that has ever set tire to ground IMO, and it DESERVES a modern engine.. my entire life (until I got my GL10) i was under the impression that it WAS some fancy pants engine under the hood of the thing (lord knows they cost enough to replace back in 1991....my dad blew his 6 back in the day) Ever since I learned that it was simply a 140 horse version of the same engine i had I have felt that the car needed more chutzpah. Has anyone done it? just seeing pictures and video of one might be enough reason for me to join xt6.net

I've got a friend over on my DeLorean message board who helps me out with this type of problem...

brat != ea82, unless it was custom made. they all came with OHV engines.