daeron

fuses, fusible links... in dire times i have fallen far down the slippery slope (the fuel pump for the SPFI is tantalizingly small) My junkyards used to be reasonable, but times have changed. It started out, that the white guys running the places just started jacking prices up out of seeming racism because they noticed that their clientele was changing color on them.. then there was a brief transition period while real estate values tripled down here, then all of a sudden the mexicans were running the junkyards, and just charging uniformly blanket charges.. sometimes a good thing, sometimes a bad thing, I kinda liked the occasional free tool; now these guys take those tools and actually try to sell them. And all to pay for the new electric fence they put up.

Woot! Woot, I say!! Congrats on the fix, nice aint it? Thanks for the update. I got a nice OEM fan to replace an aftermarket one my brother had put on, and along with it came a brand new radiator with brand new subaru clutch fan shroud.. The rad said nothing about being a subaru part, and it seemed different.. but someone went and put a brand new shroud on it, so I figured why not snag the extra clean paint.. once I cleaned the shroud of the new-to-me electric fan up, the front clip looked like a different car!

EJ-XT! EJ-XT! EJ-XT! :banana:

My take on it is best expressed in terms of Z cars... If you take a 280ZX and clean up the exterior (shaved moldings, etc) you wind up with an older looking car rather than a newer looking one. they look more like the earlier, S30 Zs of the 70s... I was mostly thinking of shaving of the clunkier looking bits and giving the entire package a smoothing out; to me, it has the effect of actually taking the overall "look" of the car backwards in time. I dunno, just a thought, like I said.

The difficulty lies in this fact.... Perhaps you, as a european, might be in a better place to find another vehicle that uses m11 studs?? Otherwise, I would likely just decide to drill out the original threads to go for less expensive M12 studs...

*shrugs* no apology needed, I have alot of time logged with both on, just not extended periods. I am sure that eventually, it will shorten bulb life somewhat.. but since spare bulbs can be had for the effort of pocketing one or two every JY trip, a bulb burnout is not a major problem.. shake your heads if you must, but i consider my admission price to cover for things like bulbs and relays. Do you pay for bolts and washers?

search around.. I dont know the particulars, myself, but I DO know it was covered in a thread that recently came up to the top..

EA81s are pushrod engines.. OHV == pushrod. you dont have timing belts or camshafts, do you? well, the camshaft is there but its buried...

I only respond to humorous clutch problems. Seriously. No, okay, seriously.. my only thoughts that could be at all helpful are, maybe there is a flywheel issue? it SOUNDS like an overworn clutch plate, but perhaps you used a flywheel that is slightly thinner? I ask because you mentioned the motor was in an automatic car.. thats the only helpful thing I can come up with...

I want a 93 5 speed Impreza!!

there are two solenoid "fixes," neither of which is technically an upgrade. One option is to go to radio shack and buy a couple of resistors, of a certain value, and unplug your solenoid and replace it with these resistors.. they fool the computer into thinking the solenoid is functioning perfectly, thus, no CEL. The other fix is to go to a junkyard and snag a similar solenoid off of a similar era japanese car.. apparently you can find substitutes in darn near anything.. but the whole point of doing that is to avoid the absurd cost of the new part for your subaru in a parts store.

A couple of things.... First off, I havent read this thread in months and have forgotten 90 percent of the specific content of it.. so MAYbe you've already talked about this.. but I think I have an idea what the "something different" for the rear end you mentioned in the first post might be Secondly, out of curiosity.. I see that recent picture of the Brumby, and think that it just looks like a car that is almost 30 years old.. kind of dated almost. Now, I TOTALLY understand the appeal of this "look," and if that is what you want I do not quetion that.. (far from it... I feel you) BUT I have to wonder if you have considered maybe trying to remove the trim line on the sides, paint the bumpers and trim black, and basically re styling the vehicle to look a bit more modern. This would somewhat reflect the work you have done putting more recent engine and drivetrain (parts) into it, etc.. Essentially effecting a re-construction of the vehicle. a 2007 (ish) Phizinza-Subaru Brumby, if you will.... Finally.. ALL project cars should have the combination of ambition, know-how, ambition to learn, and ambition to accomplish that yours has!!

some more links here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123035 Google a couple of related search terms. "carburetor" conversion are ALOT easier, and simple enough to do even on an engine designed for MPFI.. the biggest reason to go for the multi port injection concept is high performance applications.. which is something that I (as you will discover if you read the thread I linked to) am EXTREMELY interested in becoming (something of) a pioneer in........

two words..... (and I know they are GODAWFUL EXPENSIVE...but...) Head Studs???? AT LEAST buy new head bolts? other than that, harbor freight is good for cheap engine hoists, probably cheaper shipped than sams club is even... worth buying, for the amateur who hoists an engine every X years, as opposed to someone who hoists X engines per year... Thanks for the shots of the heads on the ER27.. somehow the head job i did on my car earlier this year, and the fact that my dad just decided to buy a new engine for his XT6 when it blew 15 years ago, had not added up to the fact that I rebuilt the engine that my dad refused to even touch (plus two cylinders).. UNTIL I saw your cylinder heads and realized, hey, thats right.... they are just like mine!

Okay, I was gonna say "adjust the cable" earlier but I figured "let carb people tell him what to do.." Let me put this another way: your throttle drum NEEDS to touch that idle screw. For some strange reason, it is not. If your throttle cable is truly properly adjusted (it IS supposed to have some slack in it) then there is some other reason it doesnt travel back to its "stop" point. Find THAT problem. Once THAT is dealt with, and you STILL have your idle problem, come back to us. Your car WILL NOT IDLE at the proper RPM without the throttle plate being all the way closed; the throttle plate is not all the way closed (or even close) unless the drum is resting against the adjuster screw.

Too true. It's right up there with Cary Elwes' line (Wesley) in the movie The Princess Bride... "there is a shortage of perfect breasts in the world.. 'twould be a pity to ruin yours..."

confession time.. I couldnt get the letters straight, or I wouldve said the same thing as GD.

Oh, I shall. Don't hold your breath, though... this thread AND my power window thread are both questions I have been kicking around for months.. and I haven't posted yet because I have been (am still am) nowehere near actually DOING any of this. Thread shall be resurrected once something is done about it....

NOT all fans are created equal!! some flow perfectly fine when you reverse the polarity, but I have an electric fan that my brother installed on my soob in place of the stock electric fan, and since it blew the wrong way he wired it backwards... HOWEVER, when I took it off to replace it with a JY stock unit I bought, my landlord said "hey, this spun this way, right?" and he spun it the "wrong" way.. I said, "but yah, it was reversed so it blew the right way" and he told me that some fans are not omnidriectional. The way the fan WAS spinning... it sucked air from a central location, and dispersed it centrifugally.. and when it was polarized the RIGHT way, it sucked air centrifugally and blew it in a central direction. In other words, blowing the way it was on my car.. IF you put your hand in front of it, say a foot away, you hardly felt any air moving.. BUT if you looked DOWN along the plane of the blades, you felt air blowing on your face... you dig?? so SOME fans (it depends on the design of the blade) do not work quite "right" when you reverse the polarity... BUT stock EA82 fans are "puller" fans, mounted between the engine and radiator.. so that would work, if you could get one of them. Just trying to enlighten and spread knowledge... chances are that the difference is minimal in real life situations.. I never had a PROBLEM with my "backwards" spinning fan, but it WAS pulling air, and not pushing it... the air DOES have to flow the right way or the fan becomes counterproductive when the vehicle is in motion.

the "wear point" in the shifter apparatus in my Z happens to be the little rubber bushings that go into the hole in the bottom end of the shifter lever itself.. little things that look like a top hat with a hole instead of a "top..." The reason I mention it is, my dad mentioned (when I had to replace mine) that "they used to" replace the rubber bushings with a copper part, to eliminate the wear. is there any possibility of such an upgaade in this situation?

Mind if I use that analogy in my own life? thats great... BTW, I KNEW that somehow you were going to come out and tell me i was not 100% correct.. I think I must've read about Rguyvers vehicle once or something. and I have NO IDEA how i spelled ALL OF THAT out, and failed to mention the compression issue.. high compression, NA motor + forced induction (MAYBE under 5lbs of boost, but thats worthless) == blown motor, in many possible ways. It is not a "will it happen?" it is a "when will it happen?" and unless you are a TOP NOTCH engine builder, the answer is soon. If you re use a block that already has 100K+ miles, then the answer is VERY soon.

poncho, youre a GENIUS!!!!!! I am going to install an automatic radiator into my Z for just this purpose. the race at sebring is in march, and it is ALL TOO OFTEN cold AND cloudy, so the camp shower water heaters dont work worth beans... what a no-brainer!!!

There IS a distinct possibility that the EDM and the American market vehicles were different.. but I know that pulling my high beam switch towards me does essentially the same thing as pushing it forwards; the only difference is that it does not have a position to click into high beams when pulling towards me. The low beams and high beams are both briefly illuminated simultaneously, and then the low beam cuts off. was it something else that confused you? i have strange ideas sometimes, so if something needs more explaining just ask and I will answer.

All i meant by 180 out was this: After installing the first timing belt, you are supposed to rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees before installing the second (if you are following book procedure) People frequently line up both camshaft pulleys and install both belts, forgetting to rotate the crankshaft once. It is an easy mistake (i did it the first time i put belts on my soob) and sometimes it will run poorly.. but it is FAR from right. Also, the timing belts may be off a tooth.. my intent was simply this : check the timing belts to be 110% that they are installed correctly. I know you did that before you re installed the covers,but do it again.

Larger throttle body or no, the intake and exhaust ports, siamesed as they are, simply don't flow much air/fuel.. turbocharging is the only way to overcome this. You are turbocharging an SPFI vehicle? two plus two are not equaling four here. To turbocharge a SPFI engine, you would need to use a standalone engine management system like MegaSquirt, and basically build the entire turbo/fuel injection system from scratch using factory and non factory components. If this is in fact your plan, then you may be the first to try it.. I have certainly never heard of such a vehicle. As for a higher volume fuel injector, thats another thing I have never heard asked for. I am sure that somewhere, there is a TBI hitachi injector of similar design that flows more.. but I have no idea if it would fit into the subaru throttle body or not. In any case, the stock SPFI computer will not run a turbocharged SPFI setup, nor will a turbo computer.. the turbo vehicles were multi point fuel injection, and there ARE easy solutions for larger injectors for those vehicles. Sorry if I was a bit pedantic, or sounded arrogant.. but I am just trying to answer your questions.