daeron

*looks around* Huh? I don't know what youre talking about. my little brother put it best, I think, when he said it plainly. "It's a Japanese engine. It loves bangin' off the rev limiter!" He was talking about something else, but they all seem to like it if you ask me

Ask and you shall RECEIVE!!! Standard disclaimer: the undercarriage does NOT match all this crap; some areas around the front and rear windshield, the door jamb areas have a little spotting (two or three spots) and the trunk rust-out from the holes are really the extent of the damage. I don't have many problems with stuck bolts on this car, either.

Well, then. Excellent, go to it! are you planning on limiting the black to the spoke only, and leaving the entire rim natural metal color, or were you painting the rim as well? I don't know if I need to remind you, but I will anyhow.. prep work is everything. You might want to do a final wipe down with something like 91% isopropyl alcohol or something.. but make sure the surface is ready to be painted.

Probably just the two different pdf files, excerpted somewhat arbitrarily from the 89 FSM.

could you please post this pic into skip's repair thread? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75738 It would be invaluable, but since its your photograph I hesitate to post a link to it myself.

Again, I second this motion!

lots of things could cause this. For an amateur mechanic, the How To Keep Your Subaru Alive book has a VERY good walk through on trying to isolate the cause of a wheel shimmy. Search for HTKYSA and you should be able to find a link to download it..

I still like gold superlites, on almost any car.. but if you DO paint them black, I would suggest a gloss black. Gloss black is my second favorite choice, given that you are painting those wheels. I am an old fashioned guy in alot of my tastes.. and either bare mag, painted gold, or painted gloss black have been the three chief color schemes of that type of rim in all of my memory and experience.. *I* feel this is for a good reason.

65 at 3000 equals 130 at 6000... youve probably got more top speed, but you have to max it out. I run around with my 2wd 3AT at 4200 RPM doing 70 all day and dont blink; I have had it up to 102 and it still had a couple more ticks it could have made.. However, if the engine refuses to pull beyond that point, it sounds VERY likely that you've got a timing belt that has skipped a tooth. This engine should rev freely and happily all the way to 6000 RPM and more, with power, in gear. What transmission/driveline do you have, btw?

Well google helped me figure out the "whats my line" reference, but im still stumped on maya. I could just be brainfarting on it, though.

The best advice is to first, carefully move your hand over the entire surface of the radiator while its hot, feeling the coils for cooler spots. This indicates clogged areas of the radiator, and if you find alot of areas clogged then you wont be able to flush it clean. If it is clogged, or if the fins are rotted away at all, it has to be replaced. It is probably worth your time to drain the radiator and remove it; it really isn't that difficult. Look through the coils to make sure they are clean; if not, spray them down with some simple green and blast the coils with the hose. Again, if the fins disintegrate because they are rusted, then the radiator needs to be replaced. SOME fin rot is acceptable, but you need the fins to dissipate the heat out into the passing air. There is a good chance that your thermostat is the root of your problem, even though it is new. Could there be something flushed loose stuck on the thermostat, or did you replace it after flushing the engine? Even the new thermostat could be bad, honestly. I have heard recommendations to use nothing but OEM Subaru thermostats.. alot of people do use Stant brand, but supposedly the Subaru is far superior to that one, which seems better than most other aftermarket brands. If you have one of another make, try taking it out and see if you still overheat. I run without a thermostat, but I live in south Florida and the car never sees temperatures below 60 degrees. I do not recommend running without a thermostat long term for many reasons; but I personally ignore my own advice. Short term, it will cause no real problems. Check all of your hoses, and make sure none of them are collapsing at speed for any reason... Another possibility is a bad water pump. If you still overheat, then you might as well do the water pump, and unless the timing belts are less than 40K miles old, replace them too. There is also the remote possibility of bad headgkasets, but overheating and bad headgaskets go hand in hand in these cars. If you havent seen the red, you stand pretty good odds with your head gaskets.. unless the problem persists with a known good radiator, water pump, hoses, thermostat, etc. I won't even get into any of the HG stuff because it is probably something simpler.

best guess is that it was Dirk Gently's cars name? or was it douglas adams's cars name? Its gotta be doug adams, in any case..

pipe wrench is the only way to go.. a vise grip is really a cheap mockery of a pipe wrench. Harbor freight has one for you if you dont have one already.

okay.. I will endeavor to check this on my car tuesday mid afternoon.. but I can make no promises. Are you waiting on data from me? I will avoid procrastinating if I have to, no big deal..

anyone want to post detail on building your own custom resistor block, so we can nominate this thread for the USRM? its got about 80% of EVERYTHING on this topic already.. may as well finish it off.

A Jaguar named Julia? why does that make me think of 1984??

Green Scotch pad?

I think its up to us to go "submit to the USRM." I just did so; and since it was more than just the original post, might I suggest that we try to keep any superfluous comments aside? I am sure we are all thankful to ed for the write-up, and if anyone has anything to add then add it. The USRM only grows when we submit our write ups, and the more detailed they are, the less searching needs to be done AND the more links we have to point at for the common stuff.

might just link the entire thread? here is the thread link http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=615158#post615158 ...and additional info here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=642822&postcount=9

I do not know which is better, the four wheel disks, or the whole "francis the mechanic's helper" there... I live too close to the airport to have any nice birds to coax into my yard.

Well, the system appears to be hampered; its "operational capacity" lowered by some problem. That problem could be one of two types: too much heat, or not enough heat transfer. Too much heat would relate to nipper's remarks about potential undetected pinging.. which I think pretty much speak for themselves. One possibility. The other possibility, decreased heat transfer, would be caused by either an obstruction of air, or an obstruction of coolant, or an obstruction of heat from engine metal to water/coolant. A physical obstruction could be one of two sorts.. collapsing radiator hose, or crud in the engine. A block flush may also help clean out any buildups or residues that could MAYBE be insulating the engine from shedding enough heat to the coolant? In any case, I think that a thorough block flushing is in order. My old man is fond of the big white permatex bottle with lots of warnings on the side.. but I am not sure what he thinks about using that on an aluminum block. Try to avoid getting a lightweight flush solution, by all means, Any potential obstruction of the air flow seems to be ruled out (bumper, condensor fins, etc) so it MUST be either too little flow through the system, or too much heat to try to shunt (in extreme situations.) Good luck, this is a tough one.

I should be able to do this on the distributor side, correct? No need to dig into my ECU for this, since MY Car is working? I Will go back and re read this sometime in the next two days, and do so. I have some work to do anyhow; things that were delayed overlong because of my spark plug game.. you both know ALL about that

First off, if it is a flapper-style MAF cleaning it isn't going to have the same "panacea" quality to it.. In other words, the hotwire-style MAFs benefit from being cleaned, but the flapper style sensors (technically they are called Air Flow Meters, but I am not trying to nitpick) don't typically get "dirty" to the point of impeding performance. I know that the flapper-type AFM on my EFI Z-car has a certain procedure to make sure it is "calibrated" properly, but they shouldn't ever get un calibrated.. and one that was would be a candidate for replacement. Secondly, carb cleaner will clean a hotwire style MAF perfectly well, and shouldn't bugger anything up. to my knowledge anyhow?

while you are at it, check the hangy-sensor thingy that I can never remember the name of.. there is a pulse pickup of some sort that is mounted to hang over the clutch pulley on the AC compressor. Make sure it is lined up fairly straight, and fairly near the pulley, and that it is plugged in and the wires are in good shape. Sometimes the wire can get accidentally unplugged, and sometimes an unplugged wire can get eaten by a belt. (ask me how I know ) This is very easy to overlook, especially if you do not know the importance of this thing. Sorry I can't recall the name of it, its one that always gives me difficulty.

someone else will answer better, but I will give you the first shot. They are more prone to blowing headgaskets than the regular engines.. BUT that really only happens when you either neglect the cooling system, or start upping the boost levels. IIRC, the earlier ones came with an oil cooled turbo, instead of a water cooled one.. and there was a recall?? I may be thinking of an EA81T issue, but i may not. If it is like, an 87 or 88 then its irrelevant anyhow.. The two big things about the turbo cars.. they ARE more complex (that is to say, less simple) so there is more room for things to go wrong.. and the second thing is, maintenance (history and future) is much more important to the longevity of a turbo soob than a contemporary non turbo soob. They aren't INCREDIBLY faster than the non turbos, and anyone truly hungry for speed in their 80s subaru typically just goes for the EJ motor.. but if the turbo ea82 is kept in good running order, it shouldnt give you too many more problems than an SPFI NA one. "less reliable" is true, to be sure.. but only nominally so. Any OHC engine is, by the same token, "less reliable" than a similar OHV engine.. simply because of the timing mechanism. Its just one more component to fail, thats all. You get my point? Now, I MUST say that I am not a turbo owner.. but I have spent FAR too much time on this board over the last year, so I have read ALOT and these seem (to me) to be the consensus opinions.