daeron

Good Show, Old bean!!! Seriously, thats some great work!! I hope it comes together halfway well! I'm REALLY glad you went ahead and kept trying, man. A touring wagon isn't something to pass on lightly, and it looks like you had more aces up your sleeve than you thought. Good luck on further progress, and dont forget that its wise to do a little painting on exposed metal within a couple days, just to avoid surface rusting. (any more knowledgable advice on this front? its more of an idea on my part than "informed advice")

THAT is most often (on the turbo cars) caused by a foul, corroded connector to the CTS. the sensors themselves DO fail, but it is rare. the consensus seems to be that the best fix is to directly solder the wire to the sensor, rather than clean and continue using the failure-prone plug.

obviously im not in the market very much... I guess phiz's project gearbox blinded me to the possibility. there were fulltime AWD d/r boxes???? hunh. I thought anything with a locking center diff was single range like my dads XT6. thats the second time this weekend i've had my foot in my mouth!! im gonna lay off these "frivolous posts" somewhat.

holy crap, I would jump at that in a heartbeat, if you weren't so far away. The front clip is about all that is worth two bits on my car, heh.. I could remove all the GL-10 bits other than the digidash and the sunroof and find a way to install them, and I would have a spare engine.. but there is NO way I could make that happen with 3,500 miles in between. However, have you thought about the possibility of picking up a cheapo harbor freight hydraulic set and using hydraulic rams and spreaders to try tweaking it? I can't *really* see the extent of the damage, but come-a-longs and chains are not what auto body people use, they use hydraulics.. Just figured I would drop the idea.

meh, the one time i go out on a limb based on two examples. damn poor statistics. This is one of the reasons I wanna get a tattoo of a bullethole on the top of my foot.

87 was a tricky year, so I wanna clarify that *I* said nothing on that.. I know my 87 GL-10 was inherently fuel injected.. and the GL should be, to my mind.. but someone else already said it was so i would bet $20 that yes, they are all SPFI and not carbed. MAYBE an 87 DL could be carbed, but the GL should be SPFI

I am sorry I cannot offer any REAL help, but I couldn't help but notice... at least you only had to go up to "S," thereby avoiding any confusion between "T" and "tee":grin: Your car was originally an MPFI turbo right? youre just doing the spider swap? You SHOULD have a "vacuum hose diagram" on the underside of your hood. If you could con someone with a car that came with the spider manifold stock, to take a photograph of that same diagram, you would be good to go.

http://ch601.org/engines.htm find the ea82 FSM files. download them. love them. find your codes in them, and find out what they mean, AND find out how to test the associated wiring and componentry. Blind stabbing in the dark only helps people trying to do murder in a crowded subway train.

NGK BPR 6ES-11!! ask me why

Tricky..... I suppose that there is a non zero possibility that his HGs were bad... and if he overheated in the midst of all this, that nonzero becomes fairly substantial. Warn him to keep an eye out for bubbling into the radiator overflow... and let him know that IF the mechanic tells him he has a bad HG then there is a good chance that he is NOT being bilked. IN the case that the mechanic tries to get him to do the headgasket, have him request the cylinder compression numbers from the mechanic. Anything over 100psi is "acceptable" as long as the numbers are fairly close to each other... within 10-15%. in other words, 110, 115, 115, 125 == acceptable.. 180, 180, 175, 145 == not acceptable. +1 to you for helping a brother out!!!

massive, massive wiring for literally no power gain, no improvement anywhere. The flow through the cylinder heads is capable of about 100 hp NA, and maybe 130+ turbo'd, period. the engine just wasn't built for performance, and unfortunately it was built in a way that we cannot "get around" without an EJ Sorry to burst that bubble.

AND My two most favoritest wheels I have ever seen on an old gen soobie!!! :clap: :clap:

heck, I will come right out and say it.. the MUCH more common variant on that statement is "tits or wheels":banana: Avast you, scurvy nave!! the battle of the sexes hast been engaged! :-p

being a college student, I will recommend Harbor Freight Tools as a source of acceptable, DIRT CHEAP tools. I call the place "china-mart" because that is exactly what it is. Make no mistake, they are NOT top notch tools... but for the price, quite frankly, they are disposable. $15 bucks for a set of metric combination wrenches, 10-15 for a set of 6 different pairs of pliers, 15 for a set of screwdrivers... i cant quote you a price for ratchet sets, but you could spend $100 in harbor freight and have a similar collection (albeit MUCH lower quality, and without the warrantee) to what would cost you upwards of $300 at sears. As I said, they are "acceptable" and nothing more. Don't worr about sending good money after bad; they make a GREAT set of "in-car tools: that wont matter if they get lost or stolen in the future, once you get the fundage to buy good tools. Between the partial FSM available for download for free mentioned above, there is the USRM (Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual) and this forum... and you should be pretty well set. The "partial" FSM covers the engine and wiring, which is 90% of what you would have potential problems with anyhow. Welcome aboard!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GrF_K1w2haE

cant help about the wheel cylinder questions, BUT i will say that you do NOT need to have the car running to bleed the brakes... I rarely do so. It would be more effective, though.. I learned to wrench on datsuns, and they are notorious for running rich, == exhaust fumes, == don't want to die from bleeding my brakes. i LOVE the smell of carbon monoxide in the morning!

From what I have read, its far from just the diff. if that were the only weak spot, all you would have to do would be install an R-180 or r-200 rear end from an old datsun and you would be set. (more complicated than i make it sound, but not awfully so.) The rear output "circuit" of the transmission is made to handle about 50-65 horsepower, and similar amounts of torque; thats all it is SUPPOSED to handle. eventually, that much strain is going to break things.

is it possible that it was leaking into the intake thru the intake gasket, or leaking through the headgasket? You say it was definitely leaking coolant into the cylinder; that much was obvious from the smoke. What evidence did you discover that led you to the conclusion that it was leaking into the cylinder?

Good point. Sounds like you are wanting to do a thorough job "tuning up" this engine, so may as well yank it and do the full nine yards. maybe even as far as a pre-emptive head gasket replacement. regarding the cluster swap, it is FAR from plug and play.. you even have to change the fuel tank level sender to make the analog cluster work. Not worth it in MY book (not for my car at least) but it is certainly doable. Just thought I would say that it was not a simple operation, thats all. many have succeeded, I decided not to even think about it.

definitely sounds like a fairly major short. Where did you get the constant live power from for your radio? and the switched live? Those two circuits would be the first I check for.

Use rustoleum metal enamel paint, thin it about 50/50 with mineral spirits, use a high density foam roller, and wet sand it well between coats. After 6-8 coats, with proper sanding, you wind up with a mirror gloss finish. One of these days I will do this myself, and I WILL have a full write up here with pictures. In the meantime, here is a link: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107977

I used to know a guy who made a trip every year down to south america with a trailer full of used cars with Frank Sturgis, one of the Watergate burglars. I mean, these "runs" were all legit.. just kind of a neat story.

Oh, I was asking for it intentionally! :-p I made this post right after the one in your "tear to my eye" thread, bucky... daeron ==humble man. I like cracking jokes on myself when I have earned it.

I didnt notice it was an AT. Your problem is VERY VERY common, and as bucky said, the only fix is a fivespeed swap or alternately, installing an EJ22 engine for more power. Every one of us that gets the AT eventually asks the same question. The only answer I have found is to keep the pedal floored all the way thru first, and until you reach your desired speed. Fuel economy might suffer.. (I don't KNOW because I can't keep my foot totally out of it for a whole tank. traffic down here is awful if you don't have the pep to get around them all.) but really the car isnt that slow.

What kind of rims do you have???? I am uber envious, that is the exact soob I want except i HATE the green digidash..... I am an analog man. my other car is a 75 datsun 280Z with perfectly wonderful big round analog tach and speedo, and combination amp/fuel, water/oil gauges, and an analog clock. When lexus came out with the IS300 with its "chronometer-style instrumentation" i wanted to do murder to the marketers.... they are JUST ANALOG GAUGES YOU NITS!!! the only thing I could wish for MORE would be D/R fulltime AWD.. but that is a totally custom built transmission, that only one person that I know of in the world has.. (phizinza, he figgered it out himself over the winter.) The seats in these GL-10s ROCK, mine are all shot and worn out and they are STILL incredibly comfortable. Plus, your trip comp controls are down low.. before 88 they were right next to the stereo, which makes installing a full DIN sized stereo a royal PITA.