daeron

Why do you need an EA82 Turbo if you are going to put a different engine in the car anyhow??? Am I missing something?

when all else fails, burning as close to pure, 100% denatured alcohol while you are taking the emissions test is an EXCELLENT shot in the arm, and a single gallon of denatured alcohol, poured into an empty tank five miles before the test, burned while testing, then immediately diluted with a tank full of gasoline or two, will NOT hurt your car. It MIGHT do SOMETHING... BUT this trick has been used a thousand times before and hasn't hurt anything. Alcohol hurting rubber lines and seals happens over time, not instantly; if somehow it DOES make something go bad, then that "something" was on the verge anyhow.

Awesomeness. Just had to disambiguate, there.

have you flushed the block?? Is there any possibility that it is a false "hot" reading?? I know that on some ea-81 digidash gauges (heard from GD anyhow) electrical drains (such as using the AC) can cause the needle to rise.. is there a chance that you aren't running hot?? what about the possibility of a hose getting pinched off for some bizarre reason only when you turn the AC on? or possibly, the hose is being pinched but it only gets hot with the AC on, on hot days? Actually, the more I think about it the more a partial hose restriction COULD only manifest with hot running, on a hot day, with the AC on (read: cooling system approaching maximum capacity.) Do the XT6 hoses have any sort of spring inside them to prevent this from happening? were your hoses good matches to the ones that came off? heck, you know XT6s like the back of your hand; you should know if they were maybe a little long, or short, or somehow "different.." its GOT to be something simple, like a restriction of coolant flow. Maybe something is stuck on the thermostat, impeding water flow through it.. have you removed the housing since you fixed your fans?? it could be as simple as a chunk of crud that wont disintegrate, stuck behind your thermostat. In any case, "tough" problems like this cooling system one often turn out to be simple things that just havent gotten noticed.. and I *think* this issue either qualifies as one of those, or is rapidly approaching it.

WOW!! the rubber trim that gets grey and nasty on all of our cars is so uniformly grey on your car, that it almost looks GOOD like that!! There are people who have had success re blackening their bumpers, but if memory serves it involves alot of sanding and painting. Other than that, and the dirt (I quite literally never wash mine due to the rust, so rest assured, most of us can see right past that) that thing looks GREAT!! Have you given it a good bath and maybe a waxing yet? sometimes it is truly amazing what an old paintjob can look (even if its starting out super-dingy) after the first wash and wax... Good luck with the 'roo!! Honestly, I've always thought that the 3-doors looked great with black steel wheels, so you might want to clean those up with a green scotch pad and give them a careful spraycan paint job. Seriously, a wash/wax, spraypainted wheels, and some tire dressing (or new tires) would make that thing look REALLY nice!! (gee. That is how I compliment the man's car. no wonder I can't get a lady )

honda accord rear springs? search that and see what you find. No idea of the details, but that is one of the few "simple bolt ons" that there are.. "suspension options" dont really add up for the loyale.. there arent too many, and me posting saying this is probably the best way to get anyone else who DOES know about more than I do, to post up themselves...

no more helpful, and even less relevant.. but these images inspired me to dig up an image that made me laugh (probably) harder than anything else I have ever seen on the internet. CERTAINLY top five all time for me...

have you (with care!!) felt along the surface of the radiator for "cool spots?" isolated areas that aren't as hot as the rest of the coils? This is a sure indicator that there are clogged areas inside the radiator, and that it is time to replace it no matter what it looks like outside. After that, the next step is to confirm proper fan operation as nipper outlined, and make sure that they are both running well enough to be cooling the radiator. Then, its time for a new thermostat, and if you are pretty sure the radiator is not clogged, the water pump is the next step. When were the timing belts done last? not that it would cause your car to run hot, BUT it makes doing a water pump job that much more reasonable, just in case somehow the water pump is NOT the problem. Once the thermostat, fans, hoses, and water pump are all replaced.. you don't pay any attention to what you think, you get a new radiator. After that, if you are STILL overheating, then there is some other obstruction to water flow. At that point, it MIGHT also be reasonable to want to do a compression check to make sure you have no cause to fear a blown headgasket.... BUT I CERTAINLY would not go so far NOW as to suggest that might be your problem. I just mention it to finish my little troubleshooting post, for posterity's sake.

Wait a second.. *I* just went and re read this whole thread, and caught this.. and I wanted to eliminate possible ambiguity. The flow chart states: "Check if female terminal of connector (body side) is open. Yes?->Repair or replace harness No?-> Replace CAS." In other words, if there is continuity between the female terminal and ground, replace CAS. If there is no continuity (and the circuit is open) then repair or replace harness. Now, I do NOT know what "terminal" is even being tested.. BUT, I can't tell from your post whether you discovered that the terminal was grounded, or not.. and according to MY interpretation of the FSM, it should be.

Good question! It got me thinking, and I was wondering if you are 110% positive that it is an 88 model year? what is the date of manufacture? I am just taking a SWAG at it, but what if somehow you've got wires in wrong places because of conflicting information from different model years?? I dont know, its a total wild guess.. but its all I got at this point.

an understatement comes along every so often on this forum.

even if you do adapt a carb to it, the lack of any "factory" ignition system means that you will have to "mess with wires and computers" just to install an ignition system onto the car.. so in other words, installing a carb still entails mucking about with control modules, adapting some sort of pickup apparatus, and engineering new ground. Chances are that it is far simpler to swap the FI even if you hate the idea of messing with wires etc. I can relate to that opinion; believe me. However, it would be a LESS complex installation sticking with the stock controls.

21, but ive only got about 3K on mine so far, since the head job.

By "open" they mean no continuity to ground on that connector. Geez, I wish I could help more...

spark should be brilliant blue out of the plug. any other color is unacceptable. and be careful, or you WILL get zapped pretty hard... but don't let that scare you. I am a wuss, I knew it was coming, but that was the only way I found out that my plugs were not the greatest... taking a shot or two of high volts, low amps from a spark plug showed me what I was missing for three months on my car.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=612709&postcount=16

in case you weren't aware, I just went through a major-stupid headache over good looking NGK plugs that needed replacement, and I obstinately failed to replace them through three months of jobless, penniless troubleshooting. My post was more of a dig to myself than anything else; what I am saying is, I didn't mean to yell at YOU, I was more yelling at me. Just wanted to make sure that I made that clear, I don't wanna sound like a prick

whaaa???

:clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: Teh Winnar!!!!!

Right!!??!? I mean, I cook.. and I am a GOOD cook.. but I am single, solo, and have all the worries of my life to keep me from being able to actually cook anywhere near as thoroughly as I would like... a breakfast like that is a somewhat rare thing for me. I need a woman. :-\

it is built into the dizzy... if you take the rotor off, and undo the one or two screws on the dust cover underneath it, you will see the wheel of the CAS. refresh the memory.. why would the fact that the CAS is an integral part of the distributor, lead you to believe that there is not a CAS problem? I take it you have swapped in a known good distributor?

good luck fighting the insurance companies.

Loaded question... I guess I could tell simply from the redline on my tach, but are you saying an 87 engine would have this modification?

Throw a couple of wire nuts in the glovebox in the meantime, just in case

snowman didnt write the conversion to SPFI, GeneralDisorder did.