daeron

so, had you seen smoke before this overheat or not? It sounds like there is a good chance that you had no CHANCE to see smoke before the overheat, in which case the answer to my question may make no difference.. I hope nothing awful has gone wrong, but the only way to proceed is patiently and logically. sounds like the next things you need to do are 1. drop exhaust and check for exhaust port crack in the head 2. check cooling system pressure (or maybe just replace the cap.. they are cheap enough.) 3. compression test. There may be other things worth checking before going so far down the road of "OMG did we blow ANOTHER headgasket," but I just wanted to be clear that I would NOT be umping to that conclusion yet.. BUT there is a minute possibility of it, if the engine overheated. Another young lad getting thumped in the back of his skull by his own impatience. That lesson sound familiar to anyone else?

have you tried a proper stud puller? the type used on the end of a ratchet? you can use the cheap "pipe-wrench action" ones (that is how I think of them anyhow) since the motor is out... you *did* pull this one, or am I wrong on that? Pipe wrench, and try immobilizing it on a sheet of plywood with a pair of 2x4s screwed down hugging the head? I mean, how "apart" is this engine coming, after all? I am just trying to brainstorm ways for you to avoid needing to order the drill bit, thats all.

did he overheat, after doing the headgaskets, and then this problem arose? and another question, did you use OEM intake manifold gaskets? IF not, the that COULD be your problem right there.. but a coolant system pressure check would be called for before doing all that work again.

oh yah, better than fix a flat.. a 12 volt tire inflator. ten bucks at wally-world (walmart)

I try to avoid just about anything "consumable" that bosch produces outside of wiper blades. I wouldn't use their plugs for anything worth a colorful metaphor.

watch your coolant like a hawk, in all ways. i had my blown hg and the most significant symptom was the bubbling into the overflow caused by the introduction of cylinder compression into the radiator via the blown headgasket, and you would be encountering something similar if the crack finally rent asunder into a coolant passage.

bump for more replies! thx

the process is outlined in detail, including doing a complete dealer-check mode test, in the USRM. We use the USRM instead of stickies, and it gets overlooked too often. USRM== Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual, click the link at the top right corner of the screen. However, as was mentioned, since you have an active CEL, you can just look at the O2 monitor lamp (the little LED he mentioned) and read the active codes as they are. One long blink equals "ten," and one short would be "one.." SO for instance, two long blinks, then three short ones, would be a number 23. The process is outlined in the USRM in much more detail, and that writeup includes a list of the trouble code meanings. OR you could go to http://www.ch601.org/engines.htm and download the two parts of the FSM, the CEL check procedure is in the second part, around page 40 of the second PDF file or so? page number is a wild guess. good luck, if you do not want the car then someone should mention this to the poster who has a current thread looking for a subaru in the PNW.

are you talking about algae? because that is what happens here alot, too.. down at the opposite corner of the country..

The came resides in a case that is sandwiched in between the essentially flat valve covers, and the cylinder head. The cylinder head has all the valvetrain in it, and also is where the hydraulic lifters stay. (BTW, careful that you do not drop the lifters when you pull the came case off.) The O-ring in question goes in between the cylinder head, and the cam case; once you get it apart you cannot miss it. However, UNTIL you get it apart; without having looked at a better diagram than I had access to, it IS easy to "miss" it. I hope my description helps.

THAT was a GREAT story!!! I have never heard anything like that before, good job catching it!

Make sure that the coil thingamabob-doohickey that hangs in front of the A/C compressor is mounted straight and even to the motion of the clutch... and that it is not too far from the face of it, and that it is plugged in. My AC was VERY lame-duck until I tweaked mine, and then it actually worked. It is still pretty lame-duck, but I think there was something wrong keeping me from fully charging it. That is one problem that I simply let my brother (ASE certified) fix for me, and when he said "thats about all your gonna get" I just smiled and nodded. He said something, about something, that would overpressurize and cut the compressor off, IF we added the full amount of refrigerant.. (can you tell I wasn't entirely clear in my understanding of this subject, and still am not? )

EXCELLENT idea.. you won't be in my neighborhood but I would be willing to help if needs be... I would go to a junkyard and get an alternator belt and a TENSIONER... just to be safe, since it is so small anyhow. Do you have a fullsized spare tire? that might be wise.... dizzy cap and rotor, too.. (if not already on the spare dizzy) all junkyard sourceable.... no need to worry about starter issues with manual tranny.. Just think about all the subsystems.. driving the engine accesories, (alternator etc) coolant subsystem, ignition subsystem, fuel subsystem... and driveline. anything you can think of that would be cheap and easy to grab a spare from the junkyard, cant hurt to have on hand. Do you have a phone or a notebook you can bring along for emergency access to the USMB? Good luck, man! representin'!!! soobies in the point aint CHANGE.......:cool:

are you positive its motor oil? What are the chances that it is just ATF leaking down from a faulty power steering pump? I know MY pump leaks all over the place :-\

You are leaving the windshield in place? In time, it might be better to cover that over, since it represents a pretty serious spot for being broken.. But whatever, it's your beast I have wanted to see someone do this for a LONG time; do you have a camera to take pictures of the process??? Good luck, and keep us posted!

oil pump replace or re seal would be the one big "other thing" to do for a comprehensive engine "tune-up" or semi rebuild. You sound like (heck, you all but said it outright) you want to do everything possible to give you another 100,000 miles or more of reliable service out of the motor going into the car. Check the hydraulic lifters while you are at it, and if necessary replace any that might not be holding pressure that well. Outside of what you covered, most of the engine problems on these cars in a long term sense are minor FI or ignition system sensor or wiring errors; easy enough to diagnose or at least isolate. Otherwise you have a formula for getting most of the reliability and longevity possible out of a used longblock.

you want a pretty, flashy car, with go-fast, good looks, acceptable rain and snow handling, AND cargo space???? One word. Z. [photo harvested from the internet, not mine, not anyone that I know.] You can fit all that in there easily. Dog included, but no Tommy... Seriously, when my brother bought his miata, his Z became his "truck." I fit the automatic transmission from a buddy's camaro in the rear hatch once, just had to take out the spare cover because it would not have supported it. My brother used to go on camping and fishing trips, not to mention his two weeks visits down here to see his family, based out of his 280ZX, WITH his dog. no backseat. just a cavernous hatch area. My Z is better for hauling stuff than my subaru, but that is ONLY because I have a sedan and not a wagon.

I have thought about it, and MY idea would be to chop the engine bay off, replace the windshield with some sheet metal, and smooth the entire leading edge somewhat. This would keep it slightly more aerodynamic; since the subarus are not supposed to be towing a trailer anyhow, the idea of a boxy trailer, made from most of a second car (read: weight concerns) makes me hesitate a little. BUT, I like the idea. Gut the interior and rebuild it with some plywood into whatever you need. you could even make it so that you could sleep back there in a pinch.

the rule of thumb regarding the cracks between the valves is that if you cannot fit your fingernail into the crack, you are good. both of my heads, on a 140K mile, non turbo, SPFI engine, had rather significant looking cracks in them when I tore the engine apart to do the headgaskets. I didn't even blink. My buddy at the machine shop did a double take when HE saw them, and I was unconcerned because I had seen pictures of identical cracks on the forum here. *I* don't have a camera good enough to have captured and image of them, but if there is a guy who calls himself a subaru guys and says that those cracks are normal.. he isnt TOTALLY BSing you. I realize that you probably don't want to TRUST this guy's word implicitly.. but it is CERTAINLY a very common problem. Did you see the cracks in question? Let your mechanic know the rule of thumb(nail) I mentioned above, and he will probably tell you you are A-OK with it.

DA BOMB, huh?? priceless WTF do you need a GPS for if you have a compass and a brain? all you need is a map

Thanks, man!! I didn't take the comment the wrong way in any case. I can only credit the years I spent as a vet tech (para-medical field) to aid me in my diagnostic technique. That and simple logic, Factory service manuals, and of course all the sheer data available through the USMB. I have *Seriously* considered trying to get into some sort of mechanical field, but I would not want to be a clock punching wrench turner, doing brake jobs on camrys and alignments on minivans all day.. My brother does that and as a result, he no longer wants to see a car outside of work. I can very easily imagine that becoming me. If I get a job with a wrench in my hand, it will be on a pathway to working in a performance engine builder/machine shop, or something of a similar ilk. I applied for a job with Mosler Automotive Engineering about a year ago, but I was apparently *just* too late; they advertised for trainee machinist positions, but I didn't see the ad until they had hired someone. :-\ I feel that I have a knack for the "higher order" of mechanicking, but lack in fundamental skills somewhat. BUT, I am constantly growing.. my subaru, and this forum, have a lot of responsibility for the level that I have now reached. Before the sum and total of what a car was seemed a little daunting to me, but the subaru helped me see it as one multi-puropsed machine, with a central power plant and numerous associated sub systems. Well, now I am just rambling on pointlessly.. BUT thanks a bunch for the compliment! Especially coming on the heels of such a doofus discovery, hearing that makes me feel more like I know what I am doing.

were you being facetious? :-p I don't know if that is a good idea, from all the recent experience (like they ever see 80s cars ) or if the experience would be one of sheer masochism, since I have enjoyed this one *oh* so much!! I just, quite frankly, do not BELIEVE the plugs that were good versus the plugs that weren't. I haven't taken her for much of a drive with the new plugs, but a re-clearing of the any stored ECU codes, and a quick D-check tomorrow, and I can re-assemble my interior!!! Since I've had it apart, I have noticed what seems (to me) to be an inordinate amount of heat in at least one of the wires connected to my ignition switch; I can only PRESUME it is the "on" circuit, so I might end up having to relay another circuit on this thing to relieve some of the amperage. Otherwise, she is running smooth as a dream. Now I just need a flush-out of the cooling system, some antifreeze, and maybe a new air filter and some holes in the air box. I have been waiting SOOOOO long to say this..... I love my Subaru again!!!!!!!!!

depends on what you are dealing with.. I strated TRYING to use a carb or brake cleaner type, quick drying degreaser, but rapidly switched to parts cleaning fluid (mineral spirits, diesel oil.. i am not sure) just to scale off the bulk of the sand, dirt, oil, etc crap that had built up. I covered all openings and then hit it with heavy duty alkaline degreaser, and rinsed it off.. after that, it was beautiful.

Okay, so anyone who was following my problem for the last two months.. knows that I have checked and re checked everything, but haven't had a dime to spend on parts "thrown at a problem" (and I use the phrase VERY loosely.) It took me three weeks of staring at a demonstratably DEAD and non-functioning oxygen sensor, to belly up to the bar, and spend $20 on a brand new one. These are the spark plugs that caused my car to choke, NGK BPR 6-ES 11, gapped at 0.36" and also tried at 0.40" (what I normally run.) These plugs are less than 40K miles old, and about two years. They looked perfect; I haven't gotten out the microscope to check them yet. These are the rusty, fouled out, unknown age but at LEAST 4 years old, havent been run in 2 1/2 years, same rating plugs from my Z-car.. unconfirmed gap but *should* be about 0.40": These are the plugs that fixed my car. Can you see why I said that I didn't believe it? Spark plugs would have been the first thing to replace, had my GM given me the shift off (when I requested it to work on my car) rather than let me go. But, having zero dollars, and seeing the ones I had, I couldn't even convince myself it would be worth trying the foul nasty plugs from the Z that actually did work. Tonight, I bought a set of brand new ones, gapped 'em, and screwed them in. It felt could to feel that brand new seal squish down, let me tell you. I am trying to avoid focusing on being angry at the solution, or the three month battle.. I am just concentrating on the fact that car goes Vroom now. It runs smooth as silk. Yay. This is resident moron, signing off!

When I got my Subaru, for the longest time I never saw the digital temp gauge go above the third tick mark. Then I had the gamut of cooling problems, first a sticking t-stat, leading to a couple of hoses, a water pump, and eventually a head gasket job. (shocker!) Now, once again, I *almost* never see it above the third tick mark, but sometimes (highway driving, or AC on) it climbs up to the fourth mark. Typically, when I get off the highway, or turn off the AC, it "cools back down" to what I am assuming is normal...I want to clarify that I am interested in the info for purely academic purposes; I have no worries about my car in particular right now. (It's just nice to finally have it 100% normal again ) Which leads me to my point. Lets get a poll together of what my fellow green digi dash owners normally see. Please make a note of whether your car is Manual transmission or Automatic, since the Autos DO have an additional heat load on the rad, and indicate whether your "norm" is street driving versus highway, AC on or off, typical environment, etc. Turbo or non would be nice to see, too. (EA82 kinda goes without saying) Mine is an auto, 2wd, and as I said.. its on mark number 3 unless I am driving fast on a highway or have the AC on. I live in humid, fairly hot south Florida, so low elevation (I dont know how much that matters, but hey, its different from alot of you guys) This information, even though it is based on GODAWFUL unreliable gauges, should be of some assistance to someone... right? The more the merrier.