daeron

i was running ~25 mpg in any situation in my 87 GL10, NA, auto, with 185s on it, same mileage as ith 175s.. bear in mind that the odometer reading will be slightly different, too, with different sized tires on the car. Its really an academic situation; such a minimal change will have minimal impact on mileage, and the only way to be 100% certain of all readings would be to take milage not from the odometer, but from a GPS device. I mean, didn't your GL-10 come with built in GPS navigation? give it a spin and find out for yourself, every car is a little different.

Regarding your final comment, about always testing it connected to the ECU... this question has been the only bit about O2 sensor operation that I didnt understand.. (although your post was appreciated, most all of it was well within my grasp just from having read the FSM thoroughly several times) What difference is made checking it with the ECU plugged in?? My understanding is that the electromotive force (voltage output)is totally dependent upon the amount of oxygen catalyzing across the tube inside the sensor. BUT, what you are saying is basically that my problem does not lie with the O2 sensor. The chief reason I am even concentrating on it is because that is the only code thrown by the ECU relevant to any run problems (other codes are VSS, neutral position, park position) In other words, what you are telling me is that once I go confirm proper MAF and TPS readings at the ECU plug (already confirmed at the sensors themselves) AND check my spark plugs again, then I am left with needing to replace the ECU; OR some sort of major internal engine damage, which I HIGHLY doubt. The way it tends to come and go in my mind eliminates possibility of misjudged cam timing on one belt or both. I've got sixty bucks. I can afford to get a new O2 sensor, replace the ECU, OR buy an analog multimeter to test the TPS with as opposed to my DMM. Any ONE of those I can float; any TWO will SEVERELY cripple my efforts to get a job, and all THREE will leave me with an empty tank (and no cigarettes) by the time I buy them all; if not before. Please, post away.. I dont care how marginal the posts may be in terms of actually HELPING me, I need mental stimulation here. I am off to eyeball the sparks and run the wiring checks I mentioned. after that I will drive it, warm it up good, and check the O2 sensor once more, this time plugged into the ECU and see what difference that makes. I have yet to see my sensor indicate anything but "lean" conditions; and the leaks arent THAT bad until after the sensor; most of the leaking is within the body of the gutted cat where the weld lines are rusting.

Yeah, we've gotten snappy lately, havent we? (i say "we" when i have only been a member for a year )

yeah, i had intended to call around getting direct quotes. I wonder if my friend Ralph at the local small chain store might be able to help me out on this... It helps when the general manager of the store down the street is of the opinion that you are the only person in the world who could cut his old pomeranian's toenails without the dog freaking out, or bleeding, or anything. Veterinary Technician FTW!!

Oog make something clear: sensor itself not necessarily bad; it connection to sensor that cause problem. Oog hope this help you problem.

Hey, 91loyale.. please try to focus on this part at least as much as the rest of his post... Just tryin to do my part to keep the tempers from flaring

A short in the ignition switch could cause low amperage to be traveling into the solenoid constantly, eventually heating it up. I feel good, I made a difference today! So now, you have to tell ME whats wrong with MY car... (j/k)

the coil would not spark if the belt were broken; it would not get a signal from the CAS to spark. so yes, it matters. Yes, I mean the one in the steering column. Good to hear you were doing it right; i figured as much but had to check. If that is a no go, try pulling fuses one at a time and search for your continuity to ground to disappear. When you pull a fuse and find that your short is gone, then you have isolated what circuit it lies in. you may well pull all the fuses out and not find your problem, but that is the next step.

check your coolant temperature sensor. they frequently get very corroded, the best fix is to bypass the plug and solder a wire directly to the sensor. the sensor is a thermistor, a probe that varies resistance through it with temperature. Corrosion on the plug adds resistance, which causes problems. Im not a turbo guy, so I cant quote you on where it is, but search for "coolant temp sensor" or something like that and you should find a fix quickly enough; it may be in the USMB.

okay... you should be checking for continuity, not ACROSS the fusible link block, but between the block and ground. I presume that is what you have been doing (rather than checking from one side to the other) but I figured I would make that clear. Have you tried unplugging your ignition switch?? You should NOT see any connection between the solenoid signal wire (your "relay") and ground... that much is for sure. The only place that wire goes to is back into your ignition switch. Try unplugging that; it would make sense if that were the only major short you have. (i should have figured what you meant by "starter relay," but I didn't. Im not trying to nitpick, just going for clarity, thats all ) To my mind, a major short in the ignition switch Could cause there to be grounding present at the fusible link block, at the solenoid wires, and at many of the terminals of the ECU harness... so give that a shot.

define "starter relay" My subaru is the only one I was aware of that HAD a starter relay, since I put it in....Check for continuity between the solenoid terminal (the one with the wire coming from the keyswitch on it) and ground.. The fact that you get continuity to ground on the fusible link block is bad; there is definitely a short there. somewhere. go from there, and trace things down. The ECU itself does alot of switching to ground... but quite frankly, I am in over my head in terms of trying to help you remotely.. I might be able to help if I were there, but thru the web I am worthless... I'll keep checking the thread to see if theres anything I can check on my car as a reference, but once again its dark out.

My multimeter needed a charge on the battery; there was no "zeroing" it at all. I tried again today and again got very inconclusive results... totally inconsistent voltages. It seemed to climb up to 0.2-0.3+ range when I had the plugs all plugged in, and hit the throttle.. but other than that it was minimal voltage. And ALL measurements on the O2 sensor output voltage have been unplugged from the ECU... should they NOT be? I hit the "new" old O2 sensor with a blowtorch really hot before I ever put it in the car. The car DEFINITELY runns different now.. and its definitely better, but not completely healed. It also now has an occasional tendency to sputter WORSE than it was, usually when I come off the brake.. This new sputter is EXACTLY as if I had just taken a fast left turn, with an almost empty tank, and starved the fuel pump. Most all my problems are relegated to low RPM running now.. and fiddling with the pedal seems to make a difference. I *really* need to get an analog multimeter and check for smooth operation of the TPS; I haven't detected ANY problems with it using my digital meter but it is acting EXACTLY as it would if it was seeing an occasional discontinuity in the TPS output. I also need to pull my plugs again after tooling around some tomorrow and see what they look like. My brother mentioned that a cracked insulator on a plug could cause a similar problem, and when I inspected the plugs last time I was just examining the state of the electrode for burn characteristics; I didn't check the body of the insulator. If I can find an analog meter, and confirm proper TPS operation with that; AND inspect the plugs to ensure they are 100%; AND confirm proper ECU-end readings from both TPS and MAF; AND driving around a little bit after clearing the ECU doesnt do anything; then I am going to buy a brand new O2 sensor. (by Fuji, I hate being broke... ) Unfortunately, all this has to wait until probably wednesday, because the landlord and I have scads of work to do around the house and today and tomorrow are his days off. (among other things, we are cleaning the house.. I mean, literally, cleaning the house.. bleaching the brick fascia on the outside walls, and the roof shingles.. stupid mold.)

I have to say it.... what about painting the black bumper thingies on the sides yellow?? IMHO, it would look ALOT better like that.... it would help set off the remaining black on the sides (the mirrors, bottom panels, etc...) You might lose some of the bumblebee effect, but to me that black stripe is too much.. Regardless, youve put alot of work into the car, and it shows. congrats on the new look, its a FAR cry from the makeup most chicks consider "painting"

you *could* rebuild your own custom resistor pack.. search "resistor" and you might turn up something. While your searching, any time you find a relevant thread, check the "similar threads" on the bottom of that page; that OFTEN turns up better results than the actual search feature.

unplug the green connectors under the hood, at the back of the engine bay, driver side. they are for testing purposes only. If there is a white one-wire connector plugged in that comes out of the harness in the same spot, unplug that as well.

I should have thought of that.. if I werent having a headache from my own car I probably would have. Although, he DID say there was no conductivity between the + battery cable and ground... but it could have been a multimeter ranging issue keeping him from seeing it. If the meter is on high ohms range, and the conductivity is low, the meter would register zero when there could be conduction anyhow. Sometimes a test light is best, ground it to ground and touch the probe to the housing of the starter. do it in the dark, so you can see dim light from the bulb...

heh.. tomorrow.. my DMM is out of commission right now.

Thanks for sparing me the time to read that in the FSM, i think thats more or less what it says to do, now that you mention it. And your "quenching" theory fits what I saw perfectly; it WAS just a 2+ mile drive to the gas station, and a 2+ mile drive back.. I hit full throttle up to 70MPH with the AC on for about 3/4 of a mile on my way back in; but REALLY a drive up to the shop, or my parents place, or somewhere ELSE would probably be the best way to check things out. I dunno, tomorrow is another day, the battery in my multimeter will be fully charged so I shouldnt get any false voltage, I may just go up to the shop to use the multimeter that I know is up there... BUT i dont know what kind of battery it takes; and knowing my dear little brother, THAT multimeter has no battery in it right now. and quite frankly, I ought to go BUY a cheapo analog meter just to test my TPS again. any clue what I could get one for from home depot? I still need to check TPS and MAF function at the ECU end to confirm that i have no wiring fault; but i have no codes related to either. Maybe the landlord can find his semi-fried analog meter.. (he blew the voltage aspect out testing something once, but IIRC the resistance test on it still works fine)

I have an 87, it isnt exactly RUNNING right, but its 87 SPFI NA. I've been skimming the thread, but alot has been kinda, in one ear and out the other stuff to me... What would need to be checked? I can be a test mule by all means, but I dont know what you need. You say jump, I say how high...

Well i dunno nothin about nothin. It isnt running anywhere nearly as bad as it has been running.... so MAYBE i ought to go get a brand new O2 sensor. I have $65 bucks left to play with (got some cash from my brother for working with him painting at his house) and I just dont know. Voltage readings out of this O2 sensor were more like what they should be.. i THINK.. but i think the battery in my DMM needs charging. at first I was reading 0.12 volts out of thin air, with no probes plugged into the meter..... (i DID get it down to like, 0.7 before testing anything...) so to say my voltage test results just now were "inconclusive" doesnt even BEGIN to touch the tip of the iceberg. I got like, 0.3 or so at first.. then I tired unplugging a spark plug wire, and it went to ZERO! not to 1 volt, to Zero volts.... hitting the gas with one plug undone generated MAYBE a tenth... and then, plugging the spark back in didnt bring it back up at all for a little while, then it brought it back to about 0.2 volts. The car is CERTAINLY running better... BUT on the drive to the station, it started being REALLY bad, acting like it was starving when it was NOT starving on fuel...... I unplugged the battery cable while I went in and paid, and pumped, so the battery got unplugged for about five minutes or so... would that "reset" any memory of the O2 circuit patterns saved in the ECU? should i "clear memory mode" with the white and green connectors? Who IS Eric Cartman's Father?? Tune in next time, for another exciting episode of "daze of our soobs...."

OKAY.... The ECU "learns" how to correct A/F ratios from the O2 sensor, right?? so REALLY to CLEAR my problem, i should need to clear the memory on the ECU?? SO, if I just fixed my problem, it should show by a marked improvement in performance, but if its still a little off clearing the ECU should fix it?? Imn running to get some fuel now, and also driving to heat up the O2 sensor... im gonna get back and check the voltage output of it, anxious to get feedback on these questions.. i am PRETTY sure its running better..... it definitely isnt running as bad as it was yesterday, but it wasnt always consistent with its problems. I HAVE thought I had fixed it before... but it MAY be fixed!

honda accord springs can be used on the back to pick it up some.... but I know nothing about it. There is a guy who just discovered this and installed them, but his name is escaping me at this moment.. the thread should be in the first page or two here, he is still in the process of finishing his conversion up. EDIT ZRX Doug, thread title "stiffer springs on a loyale?"

is that an old 360 on the left side of the first picture? you people could ALMOST convince me to deal with the cold.. If I lived in Oregon, say, near the coast... it would be the best of BOTH my worlds, Datsun AND subaru...... (all KINDS of top end performance shops in central and northern Cali, plus the one man whose intelligence and opinions I respect the MOST on Z-cars lives in Sandy, Oregon according to his postbit on the HybridZ forum..) but man, I get cold when the temperature outside is sixty degrees!!! I can cope with 95 all day long in the sun, but you drop me into 40 or below and I would rather shoot you! It's sad, I lived in the Appalachians when I was a kid and used to LIKE the cold.. Now I shudder at the memories of going swimming at the beach in the dead of winter (air temps at 70, lol) like I did when I was 13, right after moving back down here.. and I understand why my old man would NEVER have done such a thing...

well... *pant*pant*pant* after a good amount of labor *pant*pant*pant* I got the threads chased on the cat, and the "new" O2 sensor is mounted flush. *pant*pant*pant* and a recommendation.... if youre malnourished from a diet of PBnJ, and Ramen, with occasional bits of meat and other real food in between... *pant*pant*pant* Refrain from cutting threads into steel with a tap or thread chaser. My arms feel like the ramen noodle that has been sustaining them FAR too much since I lost the job at the BBQ place. (BTW, Sonny's is NOT guaranteed to "make you feel good") Now I get to lay on my back in the rain and re mount the exhaust, and quite frankly I doubt its going to make a difference. I WAS gonna get some video of me driving the car today, but that will have to wait until tomorrow. The exhaust might wait, too. I am already exhausted. (har, har)

Well, I wasn't gonna say it.. but since you already lowered the maturity level uhhhuhuhuh.. I said "get the nuts off"