daeron

stud extractor tool might work, too.. they look something like a spark plug socket, but inside the ~13/16 socket there is a plate with a smaller hole, and some roundish dowels around the perimeter that pinch together to "hug" the stud. Then you just pull the stud out, put the nut in a vise, and use the stud extractor to get the nuts off.

I already thought of that, but until someone else told me, I had forgotten that i DO have one of those!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (BTW, did anyone else realize that you cant capitalize the letters when you type out a smiley code? )

put a bit into a cup (it says on the bottle how much) then remove the vacuum line from the brake booster. Plug that vacuum line with your finger, get someone to start the car, use the vacuum line to suck all the seafoam up, (have your friend play with the pedal as much as needed to keep it running while you suck it up; it may want to stall) plug the line with your finger again for about ten seconds (or until you start seeing smoke out the exhaust, whichever is first) Let is sit for ten minutes, then fire it up and go for a spirited drive. You could also do this with the exhaust backed up to a hornet-infested barn, or any other area you wish to eliminate an insect presence in (temporarily at least) Be prepared for BILLOWING CLOUDS of smoke; this is the seafoam doing its job. It soaked off all the carbon deposits from anywhere you see manifold vacuum, and now its all burning off. You can also add to the fuel tank as injector cleaner, and add to the oil as crankcase cleaner. It says it all on the bottle.

A turbo car, is a turbo car, is a turbo car; Ask me about the Z-cars my family runs; and the SRT-4 that my buddy counts on me to keep running; and the SE-R 200SX the OTHER buddy counts on me to keep running; and the 240SX the OTHER other buddy counts on me to keep running...

Im trying to swap another used O2 sensor into my car... and I cant screw it all the way in. The threads on the original one from the car were totally buggered; I managed to get my first used replacement to tap all the way in, but this second one isnt gonna do it. By the way, the one that WAS in my car, and not returning any voltage after being heated by a good spirited drive, sure passed the bench test with a propane torch easily enough. So did the one that had been in the car; the one I am trying to put in NOW took the longest to heat up and display any voltage; but it displayed right at 0.65 volts, where the old old one didnt get up over 0.4, and the newer old one (that I just took out and tested ten minutes ago) went rapidly up to 0.8-0.9 volts. I had checked the resistance between the body of the O2 sensor and the chassis of the car (testing to see how well the O2 sensor was grounded) and got VERY low impedance, virtually zero ohms. Thoughts? clicky for the thread describing my issues in detail, but be forewarned that is already a very long thread. I'm gonna start a new one if the replacement O2 fails to do anything, with a brief summary. Should I try to go get a new manifold/cat?? That costs as much as the ECU, $25 at the boneyard. Mine DOES have a few leaks, but most of those are after the O2 sensor anyhow, and I am not worried about the leaks.. (no noise/fume problems to speak of; I like my engine being as loud as it is..)

We *really* need to write up a brief, concise post on "which water pump do I need???!?!" for the USMB. it only comes up once a month or so.. anyone care to back Gloyale's remarks up? Im about ready to submit that post to the USMB as it is, because I know I have read that before from other members.. I just can't ever remember it. Apparently, I always quote it wrong, too.. I was under the impression it was studs all the way through the pump nose on the shorter pump. I may try to look for photos of the two pumps tomorrow.

To quote the Grateful Dead.. "just keep truckin on......" I wish I had the incredible chassis engineering brain you've got. Not just anyone can eyeball this kind of stuff and say "gee, lets just make this.." then just make it, and have it work.. even if your current setup IS having problems, I LOVE the way you just casually say "so yah.. i gotta, just.. build me some control arms..." People DO it all the time.. but most of those people aren't blazing new trails. And I doubt ANYONE else is out there Blazing new trails for an almost 30 year old car... Rock on, phiz.. can't wait to see the Mark Two.

I knew someone had to chime in like this.. The police down in south florida certainly hate to hear that sound. That sound means someone's street racin', and they cant tolerate that, no no! I speak from firsthand experience in a friend's car, as well as general consensus among anyone who isnt living out of daddy's wallet down here.. if they are living out of daddy's wallet, then they don't mind if the BOV on the EVO that daddy bought them gets them a ticket that daddy has to pay and their insurance rates go up. Thats all.. and the LAST thing im trying to do is broadcast this image on anyone HERE.. I'm just commenting on the people I see running around in my town with loud BOVs... I think I have already explained what makes me think of it as ricey, too.. In my mind, a few minor points in favor of recirculating bypass valve are more than enough to tip the balance. Once air gets metered by the MAF, the ECU WILL be injecting the amount of fuel needed for that air.. blowing it off is just like a vacuum leak; just a controlled and intermittent vacuum leak. routing it back into the pre-turbo side of the intake, anywhere between turbo and MAF, is the proper way to set it up. If you have proper engine management then you can engineer the system to understand that you are venting metered air to the atmosphere; in fact, MAP based systems (as opposed to MAF) don't even hesitate at this. However, on a MAF or AFM based EFI, dumping metered air means richening your mixture. Any stories of "I had no problems doing this.." are anecdotal evidence to say the least; when it comes to how the system on the car works, there is no question that a recirculating bypass valve is the only way to set it up properly.

bubbling out the radiator? minor blown headgasket. There is a point in the gasket where a water jacket and the combustion chamber don't *really* have enough meat in between them, and the after 100K or so, the gasket likes to blow if it is given any excuse. I had zero coolant in oil, but nasty brownish crap all thru my raditator.. other than that, EXACT same deal. Mine was actually overpressurizing the radiator cap and bubbling into the overflow withing 15 seconds of starting the engine... checked cylinder compression, i was 175, 175, 175, 130 (VERY roughly) HG are an easy job; you can do them with the engine in the car IF you have a ratcheting (10 or 12)mm wrench to get the valve cover bolts off. The ratcheting box wrench is PARTICULARLY needed for the hindmost one on the US Driver side (the one driving the distributor) I spent a day on disassembly, it took two or three days for machining and I took my sweet time cleaning the block and engine bay, and a day of reassembly. These were Taking-it-easy, working by myself doing my first head job, "days" of working here, so in a rush, after having done it once, I could probably have it done in 8-12 hours flat if I had heads ready to go onto the car.. I *have* got some other experience tearing apart the motor (water pump, timing belt, etc.. i've had the longblock exposed a couple of times at this point, so about half of it I've had extensive practice on..) Fel-pro perma torque HGs, from autozone, under $40 for the pair.. dealer only intake manifold gaskets, http://www.thepartsbin.com for the metal reinforced cam carrier o rings.. (they go in between the cam carrier and the cylinder head.. the cam rests in a cage that sandwiches between the head proper, and the valve cover) May as well do T-belts, and a water pump, check t-belt tensioner and idler bearings, and *maybe* reseal or replace the oil pump (have you heard any hydraulic lifter noises? search TOD or "tick of death" for why I suggest the oil pump, it may not be a concern) While you're at it, pull the thermostat and flush the block out real good. You don't get a chance like that every day, and overheating is this engines worst enemy. (have you had any overheats or near overheats?) It always helps to strike a blow for the good side, even if its pre-emptively. Do a compression check to be sure; I certainly wasn't going to do mine without compression numbers.. (and I was losing 1-3 quarts a day depending on how much I drove..) but $20 says you have one bad cylinder on the passenger side. The water passes through driver's side first, then over the crankshaft to the passenger side; if the car was ever run short on water, the passenger side "starved" first so to speak. This is the most common "big-time" problem with these cars; and its a cake walk of a head job. Not counting moral support from the USMB, I did mine almost totally solo, late at night.. and it was the first time I had ever torn a car engine apart so deeply. Good luck.

I hear you.. It sounds like you are WELL aware of what you want to do, and any "warning comments" I made were not necessary. As for the video, I just figured I would offer.. and in the future, when you get around to doing this, you can send me a PM here. If you can't recall who it was, all you gotta do is dig up your old thread and find me that way The thing about the clutch fan is... the water pumps are not all the same. It is just a difference in height, but it is a difference. My knowledge is vague about it, but I am 99% certain that the different water pumps arose because of a difference in factory AC cars and dealer installed AC cars.. or non AC cars.. or something like that. SO, there is a chance that somehow, on your motor, you *might* not have the clearance for the clutch fan. I could be TOTALLY wrong about this, chances are it shouldn't be an issue.. but it MIGHT. So, I figured I would mention it so you are aware of it now. the height difference is minimal, i think 5-10 mm if I recall correctly. However, adding the second electrical fan makes it a total non-issue. Well, since you appear to know what you are doing, I will shut up now. Glad to be of assistance. (by the way, we need to find a foot-in-mouth smiley.. )

BOV venting to atmosphere == RICE Not my cup of tea to say the least, but I have already told you my thoughts on the subject Gloyale... I will say this here.. the sound of a BOV venting truly angers the police, deep down in their heart and soul... The POLICE certainly seem to think that a BOV makes the car go MUCH faster, and your insurance rates may well reflect that in the future.

In case you hadn't heard, it seems to me that more people opt to REMOVE the digidash, and replace it with the analog.... IF they feel like going through all that work I know you said that you want "all the options" on your car; I just wanted to state, as an 87 GL-10 owner with a green digidash, that I would be OVERJOYED if I woke up tomorrow to discover that someone had magically changed my digidash to an analog cluster. I would agree with nipper about replacing the items he mentioned.. these are in a sense, "consumable" items in an air conditioning system anyhow. I wouldn't have a problem with getting the stuff from a junkyard and using it in my car; but paying for shipping overseas on it might not be worth it. Your AC will certainly be more efficient (read: COLDER ) if you use new parts for the evap canister, etc. AND, I will volunteer here and now, to go out to my car and video any little bits and pieces, and then either post or email you the video, IF you should need that sort of animated demonstration of the layout of things once you get to installing it all. Just let me know if and when you would need anything like that, and what you need to see in good detail. Sometimes a video is even better than a picture, because it can give you some dimension to what you are looking at. Also, what kind of radiator fan(s) does your car have? If memory serves, the clutch fan on the water pump was only installed on AC cars.. so it would be advisable to add another fan if you currently only have one. Electric is fine, just don''t forget that an AC only MOVES heat around.. from the inside to the front of your car. You might not *need* the extra fan.. but it would definitely be prudent.

r0xx0r!! Did you use relays on them, or just straight wired from a switch? click here for my write up on how to install nice, cheap relays from the junkyard, if interested.

I kept wondering and wondering what I had to do to make that light come on.. mine is non-functional. Thanks to the USMB, I know now that I should feel grateful for that

I cannot recall which water pump you want, but it IS listed in the FSM specs in the .pdf files that you can download for the EA82 from http://www.ch601.org/engines.htm . The difference can also be eyeballed; one style water pump has studs on the nose to bolt the clutch fan to; where the other water pump has holes, and uses nuts and bolts to attach the clutch fan. You can look at yours, figure out which you have, and then find a site like http://www.rockautoparts.com or http://www.thepartsbin.com that might show you photos of the prospective parts, and ID it from there. OR try searching the forum; it DOES come up alot. (note: if you DO search, I guarantee you will find comments from me left and right saying exactly what I just said to you )

heh, what about a dual range 2wd tranny, to turn any old stock 2-wheeler into a sleeper at the redlight?? I'm probly just blatantly displaying my ignorance, but whadevah.. if the retrofit Gloyale is talking about is possible, then why not the 2wd, right? :-p

was there supposed to be a pic there?? because I am not seeing one. If not, then well.. I'll shut up, and just pat you on the back. Its always nice to put more light out in front of you, as long as it isn't blinding oncoming traffic.

I will agree with Gloyale that I have no problem with his presence here.. I was without internet access when the excrement finally hit the air conditioning back in february.. It took three of us to snuff you out for sure, (misledxcracker, myself, and gloyale.. neither Cracker nor I are members of nausioc) and none of the three of us had any negative intent or ill will in doing so. Just the desire for the truth. misledxcracker and I started asking ourselves.. "is that BGD, or is it something in the water up in maine that makes them phrase things like that?" Again dude, no offense. But you do have a singular way with words... Now, as for what the moderators of the forum have to say, I cannot predict or pretend to speak for them.... BUT I wanted to say here and now that I gots not problem with you, holmes....

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=598608&postcount=1 if anyone has any tips for editing, I would be more than happy to oblige. If you have any questions or comments please PM daeron

take a big vise grip, and two pieces of wood.. use the vise grip to pinch the pieces of wood onto the line between the gas tank and the fuel pump.. unbolt the fuel pump shelf, remove the supply hose and the outlet hose from the pump. The pickup screen is inside the inlet nipple of the pump; sunlight is the easiest way to look in there but any good light source will work. The front porch light at night is NOT adequate, ask me how I know. Any method you can find of pinching the supply hose shut will do; thats just how I do it. Good luck with the bolts holding the fuel pump shelf on there; mine were fine on the soob but its a notorious place for rusty bolts. (FYI, as bad as the rust on my car is, those bolts came out like butter..very clean undercarriage, nasty cancerous body. salt in the air, not on the roads.) Pulling trouble codes never hurt anyone, but I doubt the EGR would cause a problem like this.. Check the valve, though; it cant hurt and its easy. Two bolts and one vacuum line, and it comes off. If it moves freely, and responds to you sucking on the vacuum inlet, then its probably fine. It is supposed to open up when you hit the throttle; you CAN see it moving when its installed and the engine is running but it isn't always easy. Read the FSM on how to clean it; you don't want to get any solvents in the wrong part of it.

Are the lenses really that dirty?? I have never done anything to my headlights, they are original (i've replaced bulbs but only with direct replacements) I am running a stock alternator, and my headlights are quite frankly, the best I have ever had in a car. That being the case, any time I hear someone complain about their headlights, in a Loyale-style car (ie, the big square "bug eye" single light-per-side setup) I think to myself "They probably have wiring or grounding problems.." Of course, if its the lens that is the issue, then this is all moot.. I *think* that the headlight switch runs a ground to the bulb.. I don't know how the positive voltage is supplied (I guess just straight through a fuse?) and I do not know if we have relays in our headlight circuit.. but I would suspect your wiring myself, and poor wiring is only going to be overtaxed by higher wattage bulbs. I have been meaning to get around to researching how this circuit is designed just so that I could actually make a post like this, that would be of more technical assistance.. BUT if you can find the answers to a few other questions I have raised (or if we could get them posted here by someone who knows) then you could use the information I wrote up here to help yourself re wire the headlight circuit. It shouldn't be a major job; nor should it cost much. My write up uses junkyard bits from a BMW, and the relays are sourceable from a number of different vehicles. Bosch components in the BMW mentioned... so its not cheap stuff. Alternately, you can buy relays of the same type with a wiring kit in a store, but that can cost $30+, where in the boneyard you should get name brand bits for less. In any case, new relays are easy to source. If you come to the conclusion that the wiring may well be part of your issue (ie, your bulbs just dont seem bright enough) then I will try to help you in redesigning it; it isn't a very major task. One way to check would be to remove the bulb from its housing, leave it plugged in, and have someone turn it on.. see how bright it gets, then take the bulb out and wire it srtaight to the battery; if the bulb is significantly brighter when its directly on the battery, then your current wiring (har, har) isn't supplying enough juice. Don't worry; im NOT talking about replacing any wires in any difficult manner.

He is putting a 3at, pushbutton tranny from an 86 carby ea82 into his ea81. *I* am confused as to why he seems to be trying torque converters for the EA82 rather than the EA81.. He says the "shaft" (cant tell which shaft, and I dont know enough about gearboxes to intuit the answer) is too long.. My question is, is the shaft SPLINE position further out from the gearbox, or does this shaft have a nose that sticks out further beyond the splines, into the engine more, or am I lost on which "shaft" this is?

You *do* know how easy it is to clamp the tank-to-pump line shut, pull the pump, and check the strainer in the inlet, right? have you checked that yet? do you have a pressure gauge you can splice onto the engine and leave it there for a couple days or so? one in the cabin would be nicer, but more difficult to set up.. if theres on resting under the hood then you can just eyeball it when youre having someone else crank it during a stall/no start episode... it sounds more like a fuel flow problem (ie filter, pickup screen, clogged line maybe even) than a pressure problem. if the fuel supply checks out, next thing I would examine would be the spark, from coil through disty rotor, cap, wires and plugs... maybe somehow theres a wire thats shorting when its warm.... I HATE to make a vague statement like that, but im just throwing ideas at you. Or, you could try unplugging your O2 sensor next time you have a stall/no start... i can't imagine any way that the sensor would fail, by indicating a false RICH mixture.. but brainstorm and find ways the ECU would want to lean the mixture out. It could be a bad TPS that only shows when warm.... I dont think a CTS issue would behave like this, but you never know... and check the Idle Air control to make sure its not sticking open somehow.. If all that fails, run a good compression check when the engine is warm.. you never know.

I made a nice long post in your other current thread, where I suggest resealing the oil pump and replacing the water pump and oil seals when you do the T belts. This info about your water pump is more ammunition in favor of my suggestion. If you blow your water pump, you are very likely to overheat; if you overheat, you are VERY VERY likely (almost certain on a high mileage engine) to blow a headgasket. oc fourse, in all honsety I couldnt afford water pump when i got my car for replacing the timing belts.. so I didnt heed my own advice at the time.. and eventually blew a water pump, then my headgaskets.. and I am just one of countless tales of this ilk here at the USMB. Its what makes a subaru (of the 80s) a subaru (of the 80s)

from what I hear about the accord spring conversion, and what I have gathered of your personality and tastes thus far, the accord springs are EXACTLY what you want... easy as pie, ask and ye shall receive, huh?