daeron

GREAT Idea!!!!!!

I dont think that a paint job itself "makes the car looks like one of the modern WRC cars." I DEFINITELY agree that to have all that show, and a stockish amount of go, would be SUPER tacky.. but personally, on an EJ-swapped AWD RX, I would find the paint scheme somewhat appropriate. I would NEVER go so far as to have NUMBERS on the car (unless they were for a purpose) but I think that the huge yellow subaru logo looks great. I am basically imagining *just* a paintjob onto an otherwise stock (appearance) RX Coupe.. Are there other changes that were made to this car that some of you have actually SEEN, that do not show up in the photo?

I was gonna say "and may God have Mercy on your soul if that airbag is still inside that steering wheel." Seriously, if that is the case, I would look into making sure that thing was properly disabled and could NOT go off in your face. not a fun proposition, that..

the last time I discovered a clogged catalytic converter, the thing that made me positive was the fact that the exhaust system BEHIND the cat was cool to the touch VERY shortly after cutting off the engine, while the cat itself and the pipes in front of it were still WAY too hot to touch. something like, 30-45 minutes and the back half was cool.. but not the front. you dont have one of those IR laser thermometers, or a contact thermocouple, do you?? HTH

A question for the Nay-Sayers.... What would you think if it were a 3-door??? I can't say I am that huge on seeing the sedan like that, but a coupe with the right kind of rear spoiler (NOT an elevated wing, the standard coupe spoiler) would probably look damn good in that paint scheme...

Good, easy test. BUT, as for this.. The solenoid requires something on the order of 3-4 amps. Thats nothing to shake a stick at; the headlights, horn, and elecrtical fans (radiator and AC blower) are probably the only other accesories that draw anything like that much amperage. A RELAY only draws about 0.05 amps, and you could run that much current through telephone wire if you needed to. Besides, worst case scenario all you ever have to do is pop the hood and touch your relay wire to the battery cable with the key on, car in neutral/park and your engine is started. It ALSO doubles as a remote starting switch for checking spark, injector flow, compression, or timing. BUT, Gloyale, you and I have been through this before, and likely will go through it again every time someone has the starter issue

chances are that your battery is not as good as you think it is. (Please don't take that in a condescending way; I say the same thing to myself when I find the same symptoms.) If you take your battery to a good parts store, they should be able to load test it for you.. if not a parts store, try a mechanic's shop. If you KNOW that your battery has plenty of amps left in it still, another possibility is that the wiring through the car's circuitry, through the ignition switch, and out to the solenoid is no longer sufficient to fully engage the solenoid.. I had this problem on my 87 GL10, and installed a relay, which was activated by the original solenoid wire, to operate the starter. SUPER easy fix, covered in WAY TOO MUCH detail, here. If you have any questions about the idea of the relay set up, feel free to contact me either in the thread, or via PM.

Just a clarification.. what you are experiencing here is an electrical gremlin, and not a goblin at all. click the links for elucidation

is it possible that the XT ECU came from a car with a 4EAT? IIRC, the ECU from the 4EAT cars needs a signal of some sort from the TCU (transmission computer) to function just a wild guess, HTH

sooner or later, it was bound to happen. youre right, it DOES need a hood scoop, but I somehow doubt it is a turbo.

this car has fusible links, does it not? Sounds like a bad wire to me; check any fusible links, and the battery cables, AND terminals, and check the heavy "charging" wire going from the alternator into the fusible link block (the heavy wire attached to the back of your alternator by itself, with an eye terminal rather than a part of a plastic T plug.) This smells like a cable problem to meeven with a cooked alternator, if the battery had charge the vehicle SHOULD go through some of the basic functions described as "failed." Do you own/are you familiar with a digital multimeter? It is a somewhat vital tool when diagnosing electrical problems of this sort, but cables can always be checked visually, so try that first and give us an update.

what were your numbers before the alcohol?? It would be interesting to get a comparison to see how much of a difference the alcohol actually made. I recommend the denatured alcohol alot, so I am kinda fishing for a thread to point to as an example case.

Well, I cant see it being the clutch fan if it continues after the engine stops running, but stick your head under the hood with the key on, engine off and that will answer that question beyond doubt.. I got lucky with an inexpensive fan, I hope you do too.

Yah, the one I have that does function doesnt screw into the bung on the radiator for it, so I just leave the fan running. I boiled three of them, I think, (maybe just two) and for whatever reason (the plug may have been different, too) I decided that it wasn't worth the hassle to adapt the plug that worked onto my car. The radiator I have is an oddball with strange sized threads for the drainplug and the thermoswitch both, and I had to leave a non functioning switch plugging the hole because it was all that fit. Trust me, it is no detriment in my case. If I ever felt the power drain was an issue I would pull over and re install the 90 amp maxima alternator and have that nipped in the bud. As for temps.. trust me, the roads down here (especially with the traffic) are as bad as desert roads, and winter is a slight abatement of heat volume rather than the reversal it is up in the continental regions.

FSM Recommends 20 degrees. I dont know enough to make any calls outside of that, but I'm sure someone else will chime in with more info on what that can effect. Since the car is a front wheeler, emphasize the economy aspect that this driveline offers.. It is a five speed, correct? if so, then that is the most fuel efficient driveline made for the cars simply due to the weight of the rotating mass. Great to hear its running again!

which fan is making the noise, the electric fan or the one on the water pump shaft, turned by a belt? If it is the electric fan, you would probably be best suited by going to a junkyard and picking up an electric fan out of a subaru there... any ea82 electric fan should work. If its the "clutch fan," the one mounted on the water pump shaft and turned by the belt on the crankshaft, then you need to replace your "fan clutch." this is a thermally activated clutch, that will grip the fan blade and force it to spin when the engine is hot, but when it is cold it allows the shaft to spin without turning the fan blade. Replacing the clutch fan isn't typically a major job to do, but I have never done it on a soob. I know removing the fan blade (which is normally the difficult half of the job) is not too difficult if you have fairly small hands, or a long 10 mm wrench or two. I would advise breaking the bolts loose before loosening the belts at all, that way the belts help hold the pulley immobile. The shaft has flat spots on it for you to slip a crescent wrench or something like an 18 or 17 mm wrench onto, to hold it in place when you re assemble.

Its a hard call for me to make.. but if you put a gun to my head and force me to name my "favoritest wheel evAr!!!" then I would have to say that its the good old fashioned five slot mag. Its just the natural choice on the Z cars; apparently dealers sold alot of aftermarket wheels like that as a dealer installed option, because in the seventies they didn't come with many wheels from the factory.. so my Z-car fixation is where it comes from for me.. but thats always been my secret favorite. Most modern aftermarket rims look like crap IMO.

I have an 87 GL-10 SPFI non turbo, same setup as you.. and two different thermoswitches I had were shot, so I just jumpered the swithch connector, and my electric fan is on whenever the key is on. I have no problems with this setup. I had a gamut from radiator hose, through water pump, that wound up seeing a new radiator, hoses, and eventually headgaskets; BUT I can HARDLY blame that on having a fan on a little more than is strictly necessary. Come wintertime you might want to fix it, or simply unplug it unless it is really needed; IF you find that leaving it on all the time impacts the amount of heat you can summon inside the car. I live in a place where wintertime doesn't exist, so I hear tell that sometimes OVER cooling the car during the wintertime leads to an inefficient heater when you need it the most..

for teh WIN!

:clap: it HAD to be something simple like that; that "hard" stuff had been checked seventeen ways to sunday. At least your problem wasnt bad spark plugs I hope I am not clapping too soon; let us know if she fires up tomorrow/today!!

A Robin watching you work on a Subaru engine? Irony, anyone?

I have become convinced that a great deal of the "oil" that was coating my engine for years was actually ATF from the power steering pump.. I've actually been meaning to post about that... but you might want to clean the engine bay thoroughly and let the leak start to recur before tearing TOO far in and expecting spotless results after you finish with the wrench.

yes, I am lost on what I need to be checking on my car for confirmation.. it almost seems like posts were deleted, because I try to review and the the best of my reading comprehension i come out of left field saying I will try to get to it tomorrow, when I never read anywhere that I initially offered or was asked to check anything.. I'm confused now, somehow..

you are thinking of my Z car: the car that, when jacked up, is NOTICABLY easier to actually shut the doors lightly I actually dropped a four cell mag lite out the hole in the floorboard of that thing once The lower frame on the soobie is solid as a rock. I probably have poor chassis flex problems when it comes to cornering, etc... but I dont have $$ for tires that would take any real "handling;" nor do I have a five speed. so no go on actually driving it like its an automobile... No, she is just my go kart transportation machine, and I love her for it.

Arbitrary numbers, and just doubling.. if at 3K RPM you can do fifty mph, then at 6K RPM you will do 100. The speedo in my datsun didn't work, and for four years I monitored my speed based on one "calibration run" (confirmed by other vehicles, but the first shot gave me my baseline.) At 2000 RPM in fifth gear, I was doing 50 MPH.. so it was 25MPH for each 1000 RPM. 4K=100mph, etc.. Based on this math I figured out speeds in second, third, and fourth gear as well, eventually.. (enough time behind the wheel with no stereo to distract me leads me inexplicably to finding and solving mental math problems. dont ask, i dont know)