daeron

wow, $70 sounds like a pretty magical pricetag to me, but I am not in the market for it. If you are going to make it a little better, you might want to see about trying to form some sort of tie in from the top corner areas of your /---\ back to the radiator cross member, or something.. of course, that would interfere with the grill for anyone who wanted to retain it; but its just a thought. What kind of pipe is this going to be made out of for $70?

HLA == Hydraulic Lash Adjuster or lifter.. they are inside your cylinder heads, its part of the valvetrain. FSM == Factory Service Manual http://ch601.org/engines.htm find subaru EA82. HTKYSA- go to advanced search and look for HTKYSA with the user name baccaruda (maybe two Ds, the field should auto-complete the name once you get as far as "bacca" just give it a second) ATF -- yes trans fluid, it has more detergents and they help clean out the gunk that can block the narrow oil passages in your HLAs. IF you choose to do this (many have but some still refuse to add anything but oil to their oil) you do need to drain your oil shortly thereafter.. 500 miles is good. FRAM- they are cheap. that should set you on guard right there. paper filter medium, with inferior flowing capabilities, junky construction, people have had them come apart and get sucked into their engines in the past. not every single one is a motor-killer, but the number of motor killing fram oil filters is disturbingly high; most use NAPA or WIX brand (same part) or a few others.

Okay, well given all that, I will change what I say to you, heh. To replace the lifters, all that needs to be removed is the cam case. While you are at it, may as well replace the O ring I was talking about; they are available from thepartsbin.com inexpensively; the subaru OEM rings are the only ones that are metal reinforced and in time most non reinforced ones get sucked into the passage. There are people who have found the cheapest lifters to purchase. If you want to just take the passenger cam case off to replace that side's lifters, it shouldn't be that major a job. The driver side, it is MUCH easier to remove the valve cover with a ratcheting box wrench.. but thats because there is an extra bolt on a longer valve cover, because the distributor is on that side. Good RTV sealant is all you need to go betewen the cam case and the cylinder head, but make sure you clean the groove on the bottom of the cam case out thoroughly. (you will see what I mean if you do it) Sorry if I am telling you things you know; it seems in the last week or two, several new people have shown up and I am just giving everyone the basic primer on these subjects. Without knowing you yet, its impossible for me to gauge how much I don't need to tell you, yanno?

Chief, you never said a truer word. I especially like the analogy to dunking the car in a vat of paint. And seriously, it doesn't take THAT much more time. AND you have the added satisfaction of knowing how complete it is.

its basically the same assembly that you would call the "crank" of a non power window... non power windows only HAVE "regulators." The crank handle attaches to a gear exposed on the outside of the door, and that gear on the inside of the door, directly drives the regulator assembly in the exact same way the power window motor does. In other words, its that little hunk of gears and springs that sits in there to help offest the weight of the actual moving assembly.

the lifters do not always need to be replaced; they can often be cleaned up a bit by running a quart of ATF, or some sea foam or marvel mystery oil or similar product in the engine oil for a little while before an oil/filter change. There are very small oil passages in them, and they work on oil pressure; oil pressure can be reduced by gunk in these oil passages blocking flow, which a flushing agent can help to get rid of, OR it can be reduced by a failing pump. The oil pump is easy to take off and reseal while doing the water pump, and shouldn't require any special tools (right? I haven't done the oil pump myself but can't recall anything particularly odd about the job) There is also an O ring in the middle of the head that sometimes collapses and gets sucked into an oil passage; this O ring has also been known to obstruct the flow of oil enough to aggravate the hydraulic lifters and make some noise. In any case, whatever is causing your TOD.. Bad lifters, clogged lifters, low oil flow from bad pump output, or some other oil blockage like the cam case o ring... that will need to be checked outside of this current issue. (I say this wagering heavily that your failure is a water pump, that your timing is not set properly,and that in most other respects you should be OK) If you were overheating, as has been stated before, any TOD you had is going to be exagerrated and made louder... so I doubt that THAT issue has gone from bad to worse, and until you KNOW that it is problematic too, its best to focus primarily on the issue that is causing major fault with the car: the (presumed) water pump problem. Make sense?

Could you please be so kinda as to make more clear what vehicles/engines these Volvo injectors are sourced from??? I am a datsun guy, and I need bigger fuel injectors for my (to be turbo) 280Z.. I am striving to source as many parts from the JY as possible, and there are OODLES of volvos around. EDIT didnt think much before I posted that; as I was re reading it a post in my Z-car forum came to mind, and i went and hunted it down. (Naturally, it was absurdly easy to find, making it even more embarassing that I asked such a simple question.) http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=118512 First post in the thread, a little more than a page down.. "Here is a good page for more information with flow ratings of other injectors. http://carsoft.co.il/page3/Electronic%20Fuel%20Injector%28EFI%29%20Flow%20Data%20Table.htm http://www.witchhunter.com/injectordata1.htm http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/injectors/injectors.pdf " GO READ the thread, there is much more info.. further down just in that one post alone... but between the pdf file in the third link, and the table in the first link, ALOT of information should become available.

The question was motivated by an inability to judge from the photo for myself. I was asking "could it run again" in the terms of say, Junkyard Wars. besides, its a three main boxer.. it should run even if theres holes in the pistons, just because it is *so* balanced.

some subaru junk in the hand of the subaru junkie, i love it.

Is that a scientifical guesstimate on the number of weekends?

CRAP double post, sorry.

All the red highlighted stuff was needed in any case. its only a $50 paint job from beginning prep work for final painting, through painting.. body repair and finish trim are not factored into the $50 price tag; painting and finishing the paintjob is all that entails.

this is awesome, I have seen this get mentioned once or twice here but it hasnt REALLY caught many peoples eye.. now it finally is. can't wait to see the pictures of the rustoleum subaru fleet start to roll in :- )

for starters, no, I have never seen one of these pistons. Secondly, I couldnt notice any block damage; I cant see any cylinder wall damage, it looks pretty mirror smooth to me.. and I guess i just didnt notice the scope of the piston damage from the picture at first. It was hard for me to tell how nasty it was; I was curious. Thirdly, hey, eff off :-p (joking)

I was talking to him in IM, and I think he may have an einge with the front/rear crank sprockets switched out. can anyone remember any search terms that might help find that thread? He says that when the cam sprockets are line up, one pointed dead upwards, and the other dead downwards (they line up opposite of each other well) the pointer on the flywheel markings is pointing just outside one of the outer markers. to ME, this sounds like a case of "swapped sprockets" is likely; Also, given that his initial problem was two black spark plugs and two nice ones, IF the 20* initial advance was set off of the #2 spark plug wire, and the sprockets were reversed, exactly that would happen. More thoughts are welcome before he goes and tears his timing belts off because I suggested this from a continent away

Don't forget you are working on a boxer engine, with an engine mounted normally (ie, RWD configuration rather than transverse/FWD) The cylinder heads are on either side of the engine.. look down to the ground along the shock tower, then slowly look up. those are the valve covers and the head gaskets are about 6" further in.. Water leaking out the front of the engine is typically a water pump or pump gasket failure, which amount to the same thing. Head gaskets are probably OK since you say you didnt get red.. but you DID mention adding water to a hot engine, your engine DOES have a good amount of age on it, so there IS a chance that something went amiss. Just saying possible, and that possibility varies with how close it got. If you kept it away from the red you're probly fine. If you have a bit of experience, changing the water pump is not a major task. With some ambition, the water pump and timing belt job on this car is a great job to do as a "Maybe I could fix this instead of the mechanic?" first type of serious amateur job. If the timing belts are fairly new then no need to change them, but IIRC they *do* have to come off and go back on to change the water pump. (I may be recalling wrong, hence the IIRC) http://www.ch601.org.engines.htm click, find subaru ea82 service manual, two pdf files.. between them there is a large chunk of the 89 GL FSM, covering specs, all engine procedures, and fuel injection systems (and a couple of other things) NOT the whole FSM, but the REALLY important parts. I agree in thinking that the marble noise was probably pinging; do you run low test in the car? if so, a simple way to see if this noise is pinging, would be to run a tank of high test and see if it goes away. You *should* be able to run low test; I couldnt for a long time without pinging. I don't know why; it went away when I did my headgaskets. (ever since then low test has been fine.) I think in removing and replacing the distributor i fixed something I didn't know was wrong. See if you can have the mechanic check the timing while it is in the shop; to test the timing there are two green connectors (should be the extreme rear driver side of the engine bay, near the brake MC) to plug into each other. Timing should be at 20* BTDC (twenty degrees before top dead center) with the connectors plugged. In short, if you can get the mechanic to diagnose things for you and tell you whats wrong with the thing, first off I bet he tells you that the water pump is bad. Secondly, I would request (since he is doing some diagnostic work on the car for you anyhow) that he check the timing, and check the compression on the engine. Get the compression numbers from him if you can; all four cylinders should be within 10% of each other, and they should have from 110-170PSI of compression in them. (110 is kinda low, 130 would be a more realistic idea of a low "good" number but as low as 110 seems to be tolerable) If one or two cylinders have drastically different compression, then you have a good chance of having bad headgaskets. IF it is just the water pump, take it home and dive in; if you are even bothering to ask, you should be able to do this.

Kenosha is the home of the K-car? is that what the K stands for???? It is something of a pipe dream of mine to get a K car and use it as a sleeper body for a mild SRT-4 driveline... skinny tires on the back, big old fat ones on the front, hubcaps.. one small dummy exhaust out the back and a quiet muffler system.. tint the windows and make it look like some sort of "who made that" mobile... THEN blow everyones doors off. That would be my candidate for "ultimate sleeper"

This sounds like "valve float," although I wouldn't anticipate it until 7K or higher on an FI ea82. Valve float happens when the open/close valve events are coming too rapidly to allow the stock spring to snap the valve back shut, so the valve is never in the position it should be given the timing of the engine. It just kinda sounds like suddenly nothing is being done right by the engine, even though some sort of combustion is still happening; after I got home the first time I ever did it, and explained it to my dad (it was an inadvertent over revving in first for some reason in my datsun) i told him how high the revs went, and he said "probably valve float," explained what valve float was, and my thought was that it sounded pretty well exactly right.

I did.. if you look at the description of the video it mentions it. Is he related to ted mcginley, from married with children and revenge of the nerds?

I know all about mineral buildup in water; lots of lime etc in the well water here in south Florida too. There should be a drain on your radiator, on the passenger side tank, most of the way down. No, it isn't going to drain 100% of the coolant, but it will be enough. I like to use cat litterboxes or old baking pans, set out side by side underneath the entire radiator crossmember, if I am worried about leaking out my coolant into the environment. (IE, if there is antifreeze in the radiator.) Some people have a habit of taking any radiator that they either install or remove for cleaning, and tapping the drain bung for a proper draincock with a hose extension from it for just this reason. I haven't developed that much obsessive habit yet.

I would guess that they would... but I wouldn't bet much money on that without, say, going to a website like rockautoparts.com or thepartsbin.com and looking up window motors for the two model years, and cross referencing part numbers. IF you were to find two years with different window motors, it would be 86 and 94. 86 was the first year for all of what ended in 94, you know? the GL in 86 was basically the same car all the way through the last model year Loyale in 94.. so if all the window motors are NOT the same, then your answer is NO. However, my hunch is that they *are* the same.

By the way, (since I just wrote another "book" in your other thread) I just want you to understand I am a long-winded guy, the kind who talks too much.* Don't think I am brow beating or anything; this is just casual conversation to me as much as anything else. So, in other words, I'm just making friendly suggestions as much as anything else. I have kept my eyes open and read and learned alot, but my experience is nowhere NEAR that of many other members here. I try to help spread as much knowledge as I can, but I am not the know-all be-all of old gen soobies. I just figured I would make that abundantly clear; I've been telling you alot in the last couple posts (and a couple of others) and its mostly because I have had too much time to kill in front of my computer, not because I am a master technician. EDIT *As proof of this, check this post to see how long I can take to say "probably."

Clicky for the Harbor Freight webpage searching "thermometer" for several examples varying in price from $10 to $40. They are imported chinese stuffs, and man, I agree. The tools that you grab day to day should be top notch. I endeavor to keep this spirit alive as much as possible throughout the decade of my early twenties, but sometimes on a budget I have to get harbor freight pliers... BUT whatever, like you said, the occassional use stuff is what the place is GREAT for. It is not usually poorly made as in, inconsistent or inaccurately made.. it just breaks after less use than one would hope. NOT for professional use, but.. spring compressors, infrared thermometers, whatever.. it is worth it. If you can find a store near you, go by the place and check it out. If you run for the hills, so be it.. but it is a GREAT middle ground. Have you ever pulled a radiator out of a subaru? IMO it isnt that big a deal; once the fans are off it is only four bolts, two hoses (unless its an automatic, then two more trans fluid hoses) a drainplug and the overflow hose. Once you do that, you can run some water through it with a garden hose and see how much comes out, and get a good visual inspection of the coils, and if needs be soak it with degreaser and blast it out. I have no central AC, and live in south Florida. Nine months out of the year my window unit is on. I have a cat, and I smoke inside; so the thing gets really grungy dirty after several months. I have learned a GREAT deal about the inefficiency of a dirty coil, and how simple it is to greatly restore that efficiency with some high-powered concentrated degreaser. You can also get a bright light and shine it through from one side and see how much comes through. Remember, the AC condenser (if you have one) could also be covered in crud and road grime, and it would block air flow over a brand new radiator. You could also spray both rad and condenser down with degreaser and blast them out with a garden hose while they are still mounted in the vehicle.. I would recommend trying to spray them down with a hose from the INSIDE of the engine bay, outwards, if you do try this. Better NOT to soak the engine if you can avoid it... Although, if you wanted to GUNK the engine down I suppose its a decent opportunity... just cover up the carb and disty, etc.. If you find any fin rot (where you touch the fins and they just flake away) its not a good thing. Flake away all that you can and avoid letting it clog up the coils. do this before cleaning it. And finally, honestly, it sounds like your gauge is probably working OK to me. I talk alot about possible gauge inaccuracy... but REALLY, it is not as common to actually SEE it as it gets thrown around. If you get the thermometer from HF, then we will know for sure. The temp gauges on these cars (on any car, really) may have its own "personality" and no two cars may be the exact same.. BUT once you get to know a car you can usually tell if the temperature gauge is working right. It is just a matter of re-defining "right" in YOUR head. it isn't the gauge thats off, its the operator. :-p Also, these are all just suggestions and pointers; I want to add that it doesn't sound like you are REALLY having an awful heat issue, more of a "quirk," am I right? If that is the case, then the last thing I want to tell you is that you should go to all this work just to tune it up. It never hurts, though.

That is exactly it. How much is your time worth? if this takes 100 hours that you wouldnt have otherwise spent, at ten dollars an hour, it is "costing" you a thousand dollars worth of your own time. However, the typical DIY (like say, a subaru owner?) type person typically DOES hold (relatively speaking) a "low value" on their time, so to speak. In this sense, I know I do for one.. but it is about more than valuing my time, its also about doing it myself and ALSO knowing it is done right, and a host of other things. These tip the scales to the point where my time is gladly spent on such endeavors. Am I right? Any one of us COULD find a decent mechanic, but in the end we save money doing it ourselves. that money costs us time to save. So, in the end, the conclusion is, time IS money, and contrariwise.

Yah, but thats not an EA subaru engine! I've seen smacked pistons before (my machinist friend uses old pistons as ashtrays, an EXCELLENT idea) and I have seen pics of subaru pistons that got whopped by a valve.. but since its a tolerance engine, it is rather rare to see that happen. Nice pic tho always nice to see engine carnage.