daeron

So I am looking through the FSM and reading up on the procedure ahead of time, and I am wondering which pages I should print out to have on hand at the shop.. The beginning of the engine chapter, with the tables with all the specs, is a no brainer. Once I get to the procedure breakdowns, how fan should I go before terminating the printout? Should I print out all the info on checking and setting my valves, when I do not plan on needing to get into that? Basically, is it wisest to simply print the entire "Engine" section up to the point where it discusses tearing the shortblock down? Also, will the valves etc need to be removed if I plan on taking it to a machinist?? I have a friend who can do it for me for free, but if I have to take a bunch of stuff apart that I wouldn't need to otherwise, I can just check it and "machine" it by hand.. I am basically trying to get an idea how completely I am going to be tearing this thing down. My father actually suggesting simply doing the headgasket on the one side, which I don't think is the best course

Superlites... Thank you, I was fishing for that term. I knew there was another, more generic term for them, but it escaped me.

They are, but if we never discussed anything that had been discussed before, this forum would start getting boring..

Phiz: nice!! they look like the panasport rims very popular (at least in the states) on the datsun Zcars and other datsuns!

I thought the ring lands were deepest on the ea82 pistons????? i may be wrong, but i thought id say something.

is that a turbine engine!!??? W T F???? those guys in the cannonball run Hatch better look out.....

Goobaroo has a set on his wagon. clicky for a thread thats only one page down with pictures of it. Its always funny to see a thread like this, when another thread discussing these wheels (a little bit) just went by like, two days ago :-p not really trying to bust anyone's chops here, just sayin'

it sure does on the front wheels!!! the further from the car the wheel sits, the more length from the bearing housing the weight lies, and the more leverage action it gets, pushing the camber out of whack.... it might not be incredibly NOTICEABLE until you get extreme (you havent seen what some of these guys here in the US do to their cars, its BAAD) and in the case of a lifted soob, it might even be beneficial.. all these "mights" are quite beyond my area of expertise.. but abnormally wide rims, or abnormally wide offsets on your rims, definitely impact your camber...

its not ENTIRELY unlike one of those "gator" sockets that can "grab onto anything" but the insides of the socket itself are TOTALLY different.. the gator thingy has basically what I have always thought of as a bunch of nails, and some of them get pushed up by your broken-headed bolt/etc... The stud extractor has a number of sprung dowel-type things in it. The sstud fits into a hole in the middle of the socket, surrounded by these springs, and when you twist it either direction, all those springs expand slightly, pinching the stud and grabbing it in all its threads.. not an AWFUL description, but I wish I could've done better.. try going to sears and asking them about it. it is a tool WELL worth its weight in gold. of course, it still might not help you yank your studs..

:clap: :clap: Its of no practical value to ME, but thats awesome of you, man!! *HUGE* pat on the back.

the rim offset is how far out the wheels stick from the car. the hub of the wheel is set somewhere between the outside edge of the rim, and the inside edge of the rim. IIRC, dead centered on the rim is zero offset, and so on.. unsure what the stock offset is, but changing it changes not only your wheel clearance inside the fender, but also you steering and suspension settings... Ever see a junked up honda with wheels sticking out like, six miles, and notice that the camber was off?? (meaning the tops of the tires pointed towards the middle of the car) THAT is because they have absurdly offset rims, and havent fixed their suspension and steering geometry. And you thought geometry class wasnt gonna impact the real world! :-p

Also might adjust the TPS.. there is a "range" where it is still within spec, and I would imagine that having your TPS towards the lean side of that "range" might help your fuel economy, but with denser air from winter temps, might over lean you out?? just a thought, figured I would throw it out there.

Well, last summer, after some thermostat and water pump issues, I started bubbling coolant into my overflow. Eventually I winnowed it down to a likely HG problem, but since I was working nights and all the tools were at my family's communal "shop," I never got around to actually confirming that. About 1 1/2 months ago, it started occasionally doing this put putt kinda thing.. I checked my MAF, cleaned the IAC, the TPS had already been changed.. but the other day when I went to start it it refused to fire, then it got flooded out. At that point I figured, "I've checked the typical FI componentry that would cause this kind of issue, ive got good spark (when the car warms up it runs perfectly OK, outside of a low idle) This has GOT to be my headgasket finally biting me in the arse." Finally got my hands on the compression tester today, and LO!! -----front of car-------- driver 180 155 passenger ----- 185+ 155 --------- Thats right, 25-30 psi difference between driver's side bank, and passenger's side bank. "WOOOHOOOO," I thought, "THE BOTTOM END IS AS TIGHT AS CAN BE!!!" ..and for a little while I thought my missing gas cap had caused the sputter, HAHAHA!!! I know its a percentage differential that matters, but 30/180=1/6= like 17% difference!!! even at 25/180 its still 5/36 or 13.88%.. the rule of thumb IS 10%, right??? I know that it CAN be done in the car with a ratcheting 10 or 12 mm box wrench, which I have access to... Should I bother pulling it? My initial thoughts are no, I know this is a subject of great debate. Please refresh my memory of the pros and cons of each side, thank you. Okay, the plan is fel-pro permatorques from autozone, cheap. Cam case o rings and intake manifold gaskets, dealer, also cheap (!) T belts are 30K old, water pump is about 10-15K. I am on a No-Dough budget right now, so the rear main seal is out.. Other than oil and coolant (thanks prospeeder:cool: ) what else should I get? While I am at it, the nearest dealer said that the cam ase o rings were likely to take longer to get than the intake manifold gasket.. anyone got a pair they could maybe ship me before next wednesdayish?? south lforida, zip code 33413.. obviously, if total cost with shipping would be over fifteen bucks, it could put me out of budget, but I figured I would try. Both the head gasket and the intake manifold should go on dry, correct? there should be supplies of things like RTV up there.. Also, I just changed my oil like, 100 miles ago. If I really feel confident about the cleanliness of doing so, what would you cats say to re using this oil for a little while?? the ten bucks it would cost me to change again might actually put me over budget, so its kinda important.. rest assured that any oil re used WILL be drained and replaced in short order, just not this week SNAGS!! what have people run into, other than sticky/broken head/manifold bolts? that one I am aware of, and shall do everything I can to avoid.. what are the odds we could use some datsun studs, BTW? I might could get some of these in used condition by simply asking my uncle, but something tells me if it were THAT simple, we wouldn't be caught weeping over the like, $700 price tage for a set of ARP studs so often.. eh, THAT was just a thought. Commence!! point out the things I am stupid for having overlooked, tell me what mistakes I am bound to make before I make them, and remind me what else I need to buy!! Thank you, USMB, for your support in this time of low compression.

?? thats funny, ten minutes before you posted that, I used that link to post the image right there. My previous post in this thread, IS the original image.

Well, ORIGINALLY i had put the image here..... but it ran away. That does not look like a subaru to me..... I am no hatch connoisseur but I didnt think they HAD the side marker lights between the front wheel and door.. and the rear quarter panel looks too sharp angled in the back.

four words: sea foam deep creep. It is as much beyond PB B'laster as PB B'laster is beyond WD 40. I have taken pliers that were frozen, and frozen pliers I had "freed up" with PB, and used deep creep on them.. put them down for six months, one of them was even left outside again for like three weeks. Pick them up, they feel good as new (the rust tightens loose boxes) and after a few times opening and closing them, even after all that, a little deep creep shows up at the edges of the joint on one side. The PB never even REALLY worked on freeing up frozen pliers.

hey, you might benefit some from adjusting your headlights and high beams a little bit away from center... People have complained about the later GL headlights (loyale/ea82 style) but Ive got mine adjusted *just* right, and they work great. The interior, well.. its not my thing, but it looks like you did a good job on it. Prep work is everything, right?

the non smiley way.. this thread is worthless without pics :- p

The Seller's Remorse...

No oil burning.. just a slow leak. Chances are i am just going to ignore that, to be honest.. this car is bound for the junkyard sooner or later anyhow, and the chances are high that i will be keeping the motor when that happens. its already gotten a water pump and timing belts care of yours truly, and soon will have headgaskets.. I am still making sure i have properly ruled out all my "other things," and the compression checker is like 100 miles away. My oldest brother will be bringing it in two tomorrow when he comes in to work.. My plan is to get someone over here to run the key, verify spark at all four cylinders, then do a "finger" compression check. if it fails the finger check, then I know I am safe to go spend my money. Otherwise, it looks like I will be waiting until tomorrow to do any more. "Passing" a finger compression check will NOT satisfy me, since this engine has been running strong since I got it.... if three of them are at 140 and one is at 100, i do NOT trust my ability to tell the difference.... I know I can only hold about 70 PSI on the end of a 1/4 inch air hose, and the spark plug hole is a tad larger than that...

EA 82 crankshaft pulley torque is listed in FSM as 66-79 ft-lbs. this is the OHC engine, right?

here is a 45 second video i shot, in the dark, of the engine running. Well, I am waiting on youtube to "process it," it will be here shortly. Bill, I have NOT independently verified spark at all points yet.. BUT i did get her to start, as I anticipated I would. starts have been getting harder lately.. gradually.. but dont hesitate to shoot these things that we all forget once in a while at me. as I said, I DID just go out and manage to start it... it took some doing, and after a few moments at higher RPMS it even idled long enough for me to dash in and get my camera... the beginning of the vid is the engine stumbling along, then me hitting the throttle cable to get the RPMS back up.. it idles for a bit at about 1600 or so, where it should idle cold.. and then sputters a bit more. the video itself is worthless, but the audio MAY be helpful... While I am at it, I read in the FSM about doing the headgaskets.. and under the "cylinder head" section, it gets into detail about removing all the valves and valve springs... I shouldn't need to bother with that, should I?? I have assisted, and seen, and been around headgasket jobs on cars many times before.. but this is the first time *I* have had to worry about quarterbacking the entire affair. I am more than confident that I can do it, but PLEASE humor me and answer all my little assinine questions, :-p GD has already mentioned in this thread to keep the lifters upright and marked in order, I know all about that and plan on using a box, yadda yadda yadda... BUT all I should need to be doing is REMOVING this stuff, and not disassembling the camshaft/casing assembly?

Shee-Ite, I would have forgotten oil and coolant..... dang, and I just changed my oil, too... I guess RE using my 200 mile old oil (probly less than that) is probably a bad idea, just because of contamination issues involved in draining into a pan... drat.

okay, BUMP. My car will not start. I had been thinking I had some sort of FI issue, but the TPS has been changed (i havent verified that the one I put in is working NOW but it was fine ~8K ago when I put it in) the MAF has been swapped with another and I went back with my original unit cuz it looked better. havent actually TESTED it, but its a beauty. Disassembled and cleaned the IAC valve. it almost tries to start at first, and I have only taken two cold attempts at it, but it rapidly floods out and TOTALLY fails to start. A compression test will confirm that my "killer issue" here is in fact my headgasket. If the comp check passes then I know how to proceed to get my car back to life.... but I am betting its my "been blown for six or eight months" headgasket that is FINALLY causing me an issue. I am going to try and con one of my brothers into bringing the compression tester down from the shop tonight, but I think it wont start due to low compression on one cylinder... since ive been bubbling, I think this is a reasonable assumption... The passenger's side heads are more likely to blow, just because of the way the water flows in the engine, right? the drivers side gets water first, and if one side starves its the passenger side... So, I am friggin BROKE. got $100 in pocket. just got canned again on monday, apparently they did NOT like me staying home sunday to try and work on the thing... even though they didnt say so when I called in on the telephone. So I have time, i *think* I have money. Fel-pro permatorque head gaskets from autozone, check. Cam case O-rings from dealer, check. Intake gasket from dealer, check. anything else NEEDED??? because I thought there would be, or else I would have done this long ago.. I was assuming I would get the "kit" from fel pro and replace the intake gasket and cam cas O-rings (if they are even in it) with dealer parts. I WANTED to do my crank and cam seals while I was at it.. IF I get into things and it looks like I need those seals, can I go non-dealer, or are the camshaft and crankshaft seals dealer only bits?? Am I forgetting anything? I do NOT have time to search, I need to get my resume in order, and find a way to get in touch with my bro without a telephone (thank you, bellsouth. I had a roomate with the same first name as mine, he was a deadbeat and is now gone.. but ehy wanted ID from me. the letter took two weeks to get here, and they cut the fone before I had a chance to fax anything. when it rains on me, it F**KING POURS!!!!!!!

I must honestly confess I know nothing, myself.. I just started asking myself how much all that steel would weigh, thats all. I have also read threads here about people's fuel mileage being adversely effected by adding a roof rack, so I figured I would remind you of that, as well. This is also the "older gen" forum that is more primarily based on the 80's style soobs.. even though they kept making them until 93 or 94, as loyales. Your car would qualify for the "newer generation" even though it IS a '91. could we get a moderator to move this one somewhere he might get more responses??