daeron

step one is to totally dry out any water that may be in the engine bay. the fuel injection system has many many places with plugs and wires that do NOT want to be wet. Take it all apart with a blow dryer and a roll of paper towels if you have to, then spritz a little WD-40 on them all. THEN verify whether or not you have spark, by pulling a wire and checking for spark..... Then you can start panicking.

You want to weld it out of 40 feet of steel tubing??? that *might* be a little heavy.. Angle would probably suffice, with a few bit of steel here and there. Also, if you DO try to fab up your own, do NOT forget about wind resistance and your fuel mileage.. Unless you incorporate some way or removing it when not in use.

It isnt fun, but you have to remove the gauge pod shroud to access all that.. NOT my favorite area of the car to work in.

It has already been said better than I can put it, so I will quote.. If it appears to line up with a corresponding white mark on the bit where it screws into, as it does in the picture, then you are OK. In other words, it should look like, when it was assembled, they put the screw *just* where it needed to be, and then took a white paint marker and marked across the top of the screw, onto the metal. As long as thats OK, then there is nothing to worry about with this screw. that is the only reason it even came up.. just, DONT fiddle with it, it isnt an "adjustment" at all. If, on the other hand, the screw DOES look like its been tampered with.. I don't know what to tell you. I just wanted to make sure you weren't worrying about the idle stop screw when you didnt have to.

Just some clarification here.. when you turn your key from "on" to "accessories" or "off," it behaves EXACTLY as though the key were in the "Run" position? NO warning lights (outside of maybe handbrake) correct? If we have established that it is not an alternator problem, or a dieseling problem (you DID try the coil wire test, right? pulling the coil wire while the engine was "still running turned off" killed the engine?) then the problem seems to lie in the keyswitch. Yet, you have replaced this to no avail, ruling THAT part out as a possible culprit. My vote totally lies with MOSTLY shorted wire, and after a little while enough current passes through to heat things up and complete the short. You mentioned that if you rev high enough to brighten your dash lights.. you mean, the gauge cluster illumination, etc, right? In other words, once you rev it enough to charge the system and fully assert its voltage.. your car cannot cut off. That might well coincide with the wire heating up from a given minimum amount of juice having gone through.... Try fiddling with the whole length of these wires. For that matter, have you felt aforementioned wires yet to see how hot they actually do get? its MIND boggling, to be honest... splicing a relay into the circuit really is a superior way of designing the system. It is alot more than a "quick fix," it is re engineering a low-budget economy car to have a feature that enhances reliability and longevity. I had to relay my starter because I had similar keyswitch problems.. My older brother, the ASE certified mechanic had a "starter problem" the whole time he owned the car, and it finally went critical on me.. which meant that when I turned the key, all I got was a *click* like I had a low battery. I installed a relay that was switched by the OLD solenoid control wire, and then ran a wire from that relay into the solenoid control terminal, and it has worked B-E-A-Utifully ever since.

Wow.. you have any photos of your progress on that?? sounds interesting.... Although I must say I would prefer your entire setup, sans lift and tall tires.. of course, the driveline is probably far from ideal of a street car, if that is how you are building it.

Exactly. suzuki or not, the justy had no turbo EA-82... a simple poll is far from demonstrative that it is impossible.. it merely indicates what many people are finding out.. you need to build an engine out of top-notch blocks and heads... SPECIFICALLY with power in mind, as opposed to just slapping together what youve got laying around. Should you choose to simply "assemble" a high comp turbo motor, chances are longevity will be short, unfortunately. There were two or three people, one in particular I recall, who were trying to do just this.. One person whose name totally escpaes me went through two or three new blocks before one was not defective in some way, but I can't even remember the username to search for it, :-\ Thats not to say they aint fun while they last..

It may also be the wiring associated with the MAF sensor... can you tell that the car is running poorly while its sitting, running, at idle with the hood up? Try going along every inch of the exposed harness of the MAF and bend and flex the wires, and see if the engine sputters at all, or suddenly "clicks" into running properly for a moment. There is a distinct possibility that you've got a bad spot in a single wire or more than one, that is causing your ECU to get a bad voltage reading from the MAF. Be sure to inspect the CTS as well, those things are infamous in many different makes and models of fuel injected vehicles.... some of them seem allright, but some cars just get really crummy connectors, and tend to go green and fitz out on you.. the sensor plugs on the EA82 turbos appear to be less than bulletproof

have you tried to unlock it from outside, with the key?? It's not likely to *work*, but it is definitely worth a shot..

Every time you post a picture of this BRAT, someone compliments you on that wild camo paint job.. thats awesome

five bucks says the wires are somehow shorting out... acfter a while, you can feel that the wires all heat up even if the car is running normally.. there IS a significant amount of current running through that switch, after all. A simple fix might be to find which wire is turned "on" in the "on/run" position, and simply clip that wire.. then use that wire to switch a 40 amp relay, which would feed the circuit originally fed by that wire.. in other words, clip said wire, take the end of said wire attached to the ignition switch, and use that as a signal to turn a relay on, then connect the output of the relay to the other end of the wire that you clipped. That way, the ignition switch itself only sees a very LOW amperage flowing through it, and the car (meaning, anything in the car switched on by the key being in the "on" position) gets plenty of power in the ignition "on" position. search my name, and the term relay, and look at the subject lines for a subject that seems relevant, and you can find some info about junkyard relays out of a BMW that you could use for this... if you wanna pm me with any questions about it I will answer them gladly

look for a large black rubber snorkel that says Subaru EFI, that goes down to a point over the center of your engine. The barrel-type thingy that snorkel goes down into, is your thorttle body.. its basically an electronic carburetor, but thats GROSSLY oversimplifying it.

Amen to that, my best friend's older sister is really only his half-sister.. mom was pregnant with sister when she married his dad, and his dad has been her dad in every single way but biologically.. and it is an impressive thing to say the least. On the other hand, I also have a lady friend whose father passed away at a young age, she was the older of two kids, and she has taken the motivation to learn just as you had, heartless. I am currently helping her with the front clip on her volvo.. shes done rust repairs on her honda accord, and she actually taught me how to recharge an AC system because I had never done it.. I've lived without car AC most of my life You simply have to understand that when we thank our dads for this, it is with the concept in mind that we were given this HUGE head start over those of you who had to figure it out yourselves... and we all feel an immense debt of gratitude to an army of old men that we love, and some of us miss dearly. We oughta give those guys their own holiday or something...

Well, we can tell who hasnt done his rear brakes in a while (me)

No need to apologize.. I am just rather practiced at writing long long posts, and after a while you start realizing some ways to make them easier to read so you get more replies. It also helps to have it pointed out, because ALL of us get a little fuddled sometimes. (thanks skip, for pointing the same thing out to me a while back!)

While many of us have encountered faulty throttle position sensors, the part, in general, is not "failure-prone" and you can confidently pick one up at the JY to replace it.. as for the testing and calibration procedures on the turbo TPS, I cannot help you.. but someone should be able to chime in. I figured I would post and let you know that you can just go to the JY for it :- )

oh, I can remember nearly anything.. at any given moment I've got about 30 telephone numbers I can rattle off the top of my head, historical dates from the first time I snapped a timing belt to the inception of the october revolution in russia.... and I can remember halloween of 1983.. two months before my third birthday. I just thought it was interesting to point out that you had, in fact, retained all this knowledge of this particular tire.. its something I would do

No, but you mentioned that in the thread I am talking about.. I was fairly certain the thread in question was regarding an EA-82 vehicle, and you mentioned your write-up kinda of for ***************s-and-giggles....

but you still remember all this detail about a tire...

+ a billion for all the dads that ever showed their kids a wrench. :cool:

I swear, I read a thread very recently that covered this pretty thoroughly, or contained a link to a thread that did. look over the first two or three pages of threads, and click on anything clutch-related.... it came up almost side by side with this thread at one point....

...??? where at? i cannot for the life of me picture this thing in my car... It may well have been removed already, because I can certainly fit a fully inflated 185-70 R13 tire in there.. granted, the first time I did it it TOTALLY smashed the retainer clip for the windshield washer that was right in the middle.. got a photo, perchance? or a more specific location on where I should look on my 87 GL-10 sedan? :-p And yah, I got my 12 volt campbell hausfeld inflator pump at Wal-mart (the evil corporate megalith of america) for the low low price of ten dollars american. just one nice portrait of alexander hamilton can acquire you the ability to inflate your tires as MUCH as you like!! at the rate of 50 cents per gas station stop, thats only like, 20 inflations before you have saved money!!

my understanding is, other than the different bellhousing used for the EA series engines, the 4EAT that went into ANY GL body style car is virtually identical even to the modern 4EATs in the newer legacy's etc. In other words, from the 80's through the 90's, there is basically only ONE 4EAT. so, yah. I don't know ANYTHING about this first-hand though.. All I know I have read here.. that being said, i *think* that the TCU should be a non-issue. the fact that one car was a turbo and the other car was not (correct?) may be an issue, it may not. Chances are, you are in good shape though.. at most, it will probly be a matter of using the right TCU (probably the one already in your car.)

You need to replace this brake line. Thats basically a no-brainer, but I say that having "coped" with, and reinstalling, a brake line like this before That being the case, the simplest method would be to cut the rubber hose, remove the wheel cylinder, and use a vise to remove the mangled fitting. however, once you start thinking about the fact that really, you need to replace this line ANYhow.. removing it becomes alot easier, because you aren't as worried about not destroying it

If you like the car, and know how to take care of cars, and you are willing to almost immediately replace the radiator just to be cautious.. and you don't see it as TOO much of a problem to just take the car, and change the timing belts, water pump, seals, oil pump seals, intake, exhaust, and head gaskets JUST as a precautionary measure with you X00,000 mile old 80's jap turbo engine... .. then you should buy it. its a great car that in stock form can be easily maintained, and run well. Do not expect it to be problem-free, but it IS a fairly simple car. ALL the bad juju was mentioned above. Don't be thinking you can make it a beast, though.... there is a current thread titled "Poll: long-lived EA-82 turbos" or something like that. Read that whole thread. and honestly, despite the MOUTHFUL that I said in my opening paragraph.. it REALLY is NOT that major a job to do. anyone who can turn a wrench should be able to do it in under a week, and im sure there are people here who could accomplish it in a (very very full) day, or two fairly easily.