Buick350X

You can get air bag to do the same thing, they would go inside the springs.

front to back makes no difference only side to side does.

Rear tires on our 00 Sub Forest howl louder n louder with speed, inflated right, running Yokohama® AVID Touring-S on the rear. I don't drive it that often so I never noticed when they were put on the rear. Annoying to sat the least.

Ok still no codes, gonna un-do the battery for a while so it forgets and maybe relearn the codes. Other problem I found was on the inline fuses on a bundle of wire, 2 30amp fuses on fat red wire and a 10 on a small white, the one 30amp fused and holder where melted pretty bad yet the fuse never popped. Wonder if a 30 is to big then? I trimmed up the connector and put in a new fuse why it doesn't look bad in the pic. and a better shot of the ABS connector, that is above where the clutch pedal would be. Very hard to get a pic on your back. Though its easy to find as its nearly right above the regular OBD2 scanner port thats on the lower dash plastic.

Ok its no where anywhere on the gas pedal side, its right bove the clutch pedal, and on ours those green connectors are hook up, not lose un connected. should they not be connected??? And so far the ABS light only goes off and back on once and just stays on.

Well you know then that its not a crticial noise, those never go away and get louder with RPM. Noises that go away once warmed up are not always bad. Probably why ya think only driving for 20min then letting it sits makes it go away. Would probably go away if you drove for 35-50 min, which is way to long for any internal engine parts to get warm and expand so it must be external and once its finally get nice and heat soaked, it expaned enough not to rattle.

Ok I have no clue, there are no lose conectors like that, that will pull out like in the first pic. Anyone who has done it needs to take some real pics of the thing, or maybe where does it tie into to trace where it should be. I got mosto f the dash apart and find no such connector anywhere.

Well, well hidden, got half the dash apart n still no luck. Waiting for my flashlight to charge back up before I go in again.

high performance engines that ship with syn, were pre broke in with dino or break in oil. As a high end car like that get more attention factory side, regular engins are just put together and shipped. But the point is valid, syn can protect to well and the rings won't seat as well, ring seating is when they and the cylinders wall wear into each other. Syn can stop that from being successful sometimes. So dino is preferred to break in. You can also buy special break in oil. [used all the time by old hot rodders for the higher levls of zinc the older engines like. Though some just add a bottle of ZDDP to any oil to achieve the same thing.] Which reminds me to pick of a bottle of ZDDP

Only question id have for you and maybe the whole forum, how dirty do these new engines run? Our 00 Forest has always been well taken care of and the oil is changed often, but it only takes 30sec of running and the new oil is black as night. Could be from emission stuff blowing crap back into the engine, that isn't always bad. But it has always bugged me. My daily drive 1980 Buick Estate wagon with obviously a 350X [X = Buick] The oil looks nice and clean once changed for a long while, when it starts to turn black, I change it. Id change it every day in the SUB if I went by color.

Being brand new, id be tempted to push the oil of choice off on the dealer and only have it done there, if anything happens, your warranty defence is "the dealer said.........."

I would not of said that if I had found the info quickly n easily in the 30sec I browsed that 200 page pdf file

A for dummies version plz, not just copies of tech manuals

OK so our forest is tossing codes having it scanned at Autozone ---------- OK so the ABS light has come on, gone off a few times but back on. Autozone says they can't scan the ABS codes for some reason and it will cost $60 for Belltire to do it. Will a $100 store bought scanner do the ABS and all, saving some money in the long run? Or will it be limited just like the handheld autozone is using??? --------- near 190,000 miles n will probably have it forever, just now starting to need attention. Dunno about these engines, what's the rules on it for when the valves should ever be adjusted, or left alone.

Found out you can get them for $33 brand new from Subaru Time to list some on ebay for $100 if folks are paying up to $60 for used ones.

OK, guess I should see what new cost from the dealer. Who knows maybe the local one will want to get ride of them cheap or want to much. But gotta check before I drop $50 on used parts.

Any know if the 1 cup kind is stronger??? Or does it break as easy as the dual cup holder?

Hmmm the one we got is a dual cup, cup holder, that looks to be just 1 for like a biggulp But if it will fit, maybe....... hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

01 Forest pop-out dash cup holder Qs Can anyone tell me which years have the same style cup holder that will fit? Hit ebay and found a bunch but none like it as they all look different. But what do I know, maybe one will fit??? http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=subaru+cup+holder&_sacat=&_trksid=m270&_odkw=subaru+drink+holder&_osacat=0

Well the alt is good, must of made some extra noise maybe as it was powering the whole car when it got home yesterday. And my $20 4yr old landfill battery in my Firebird checked out good too. [Jeep threw out bunches of battries n guy I knew who worked there sold em for $20 each as they were still good.]

Well I think I can get the battery from my Firebird in there sideways as put in regular there is not enough slack in the + cable to reach. Then go have the alt tested. Why did Sub have to reverse the poles of the battery??? When 99% of all battries made and used in the US are one way, some engineere said hey lets make it backwards so its more special n cost more which equals fun. No less annoying then our 80 Buick which is half metric n half standard bolts through out factory just for fun too.

Good post though, have thought similar if there was an easy on and off kit. Only in the winter do we need AWD and in the summer it would be nice to save some gas, if it would save gas. As is the Sub get the same mileage as our old Buick wagon with a monster carb'ed V8 that will put grins ear to ear when ya step on it. Then make ya giggle when it shifts and kick sideways. Why I drive the Buick 99% of the time, same mileage and just more fun. Until it snows more then 2ft and I enjoy how the AWD will go through anything without even trying.

Does the old trick of unhooking the neg battery cable while the car is running to see if the alt is working, work on newer cars??? On older American ones it will die if the alt is bad.

Oh man I think it time for a new alt. Can I expect bolts ands junk to break off or be siezed in place? The whole engine and stuff is all aluminum with steel bolts for everything. I know what a nightmare that can be with the little bit of aluminum used on American cars. The belt tensioner looks to be the worse. If its stuck in place oh man $$$$$ When it came home yesterday I heard it making a funny high pitch noise. But shurged it off till I woke up to find a note saying it was dead. It does have the original battery but it has been flawless since bought. Im scared to start ripping into it, but know a shop will care even less and just snap n break off bolts at will then charge up the yahoo to fix it. Sure I will soak it down in PBblast n junk, apply heat but have dealt with aluminum brackets n steel bolts before. 90% of the time they snap and ya gotta drill them out as they have siezed/ welded in place. Aluminum n steel like to bond over time.

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