Buick350X

Funny is the noise has been fixed and had nothing to do with the shields. Sat all of a sudden it got loud like a hole in the muffler. Got under it and a pipe flange connection has broken. Was the section of pipe right between the last cat and the muffler. That section of pipe also has some soup can thingy on it??? N-E-Who the bolts has pulled through the flange on the muffler pipe side. But the ends of them still stuck out enough to pop back in the hole and stay there. So to be cheap I just used a good helping of silicone on the two flanges, stuck it back together and use stainless wires to hold it together. Waited and hr, then used two hose clamps hooked over the bolts to further hold the connection together tight. Then another big helping of stainless wire, criss cross around it many way to keep that flange together tight for good. Worked like a charm, smooth and quiet again and then I noticed that rattle noise went away. Dunno how or why, it was never loud like it was leaking before but now the rattle is gone.

Its all nothing but rubber or closed cell foam with a foil backing, it should not cost any where near what it does. Don't care how well it works, its all a rip. $28 for 2 10x10in pieces. total rip off. And why 10x10 insted of 12x12??? They can sell you more. Im not gonna spend all that money just so they can sponsor racing. Where all the money goes. LIke godaddy, their prices are getting high and high and on some things it beyond reason, compared to what it use to be. But since they got 4-5 racers to sponsor, I gotta pay more??? slowly moving everything to namecheap

Dynamat and other sound heat and vib mats: Compare So who all is using Dynamat sound heat and vib mats??? Anyone using other brands??? $28 for 2 10"x10" pieces of Dynamat http://www.dynamat.com/store/store-car.asp Some roll on crap http://www.quietcar.net/?gclid=CKvz9b-OlpUCFQIWFQodaVy9HQ Stuff called 2nd skin that is pricy like dyna http://www.secondskinaudio.com/ Hushmat Starter Kit - 4 square feet $40.00 http://www.hushmat.com/new/Performance/index.htm And I found smitty mats about 1/3 the pirce of them all. http://SmittyMats.com/

There was a time when you wouldn't find me saying that but, and id tell ya to use a standard cheap NGK as they use to be good plugs but not anymore. And things could change yet again, product quality is never constant. BUt right now first thing we tell folks is to change to autolite plats and run some seafoam in the gas. Both perform mircales on fussy bikes that other products just can't do. Sub I4 engine is just a fancy bike engine, why they run so darn good and last so long. =

1 cylinder, 2 cylinder, 3 cylinder 4 NGKs suck 2 stroke, 4 stroke suck CDI, TCI suck Carb or computer FI They still suck [unless you buy fancy ones. just the standard NGK plugs suck.] Also in my Buick they work much better then the standard AC's

NGK sucks unless you spend $12 each Autolites rocks....... Have done extensive testing in 100s of engines and what I say rings true. How you will ask. I run a motorcycle forum, NKG plugs are standard for all bikes. NGK plugs gas foul, air foul and just go bad by looking at them. Pop in autolites and folks bikes not only run better but no more funny starting problems or bad plugs before their time. NGK sucks

No $12 each plugs for me. Autolite platinums are awesome plugs and still cheap. sparkplugs.com to cross check

yea just new plugs n wires, wired ended up free, they were underwarranty.

Heat shield death rattle Anyone got that awful racket on start up that goes away as it warms up? None of them feel lose but it make a big racket. Like to jam something in there or something to muffle the vibrations, can't vibrate, can't rattle, right??? butt what?

pop bottle cap full of salt, with a few drops of water to make a sort of paste, dab some on the threads of the end you don't want to come out and insert home made hi temp locktite

They use to be like that a few years back but now unless they are helping someone they are suppose to gret everyone with a hello. Though that even depends on the manager and if they care. but out of the 3 we have autozone advancedauto murrys advanced is the best to get in and out quick. Also the most friendly. At autozone you can stand there for 20 mins just waiting to check out as they won't come over to the reg until they are done helping everyone. Even if you just ran in for like a quart of oil. At Murrys they do have one person who never leaves the register but they are so busy its still a 20min wait to just run in and grab something. at advanced every person has their own register, so when the guy gets done helping you, he can check you out right there and your on your way.

partsamerica is also advancedauto, same store, when ya look up parts you gotot partsamerica.com, order them and go pick them up at advancedauto.

Unless it sold at autozone or partsamerica we don't buy it. Local Sub dealer is a con artist putz. Almost bought our Sub For there, had it for 2 day then found they had the car we just bought listed in Sunday the paper for $5000 less then we paid 2 days before hand. returned it, and bought from a private owner who had to pay $1,800 more then we paid them to to sell it/get the title from the bank. Went their for a PCV, Sub dealer Mech even went out to look at the car to double check. Still sold us the wrong one and for 4 times what it cost at AZ. We needed spare keys, local key shop said they couldn't get the blanks. Go to dealer, they say we can only sell you blanks, we can't cut. No one local will cut a blank unless you buy it from them. If it was a part we could wait 5-6 days to order online id probably go OE but we will never goto the dealer for anything.

Ok I did the squirt bottle trick, popped hood, start car, turned off porch light, 3-4 squirts and it was twinkly as xmas and the engine started to stumble. bad plug wires, kinda odd since they aren't really that old, I did pick up a new set already and some autolite platinum plugs but gonna return the old ones as they are on warranty and get my $30 back for the new ones. On my Virago forum and personal experiance autolite plats work better than any plug you can buy, even fancy $12 each plugs.

It best not be a coil pack, $180 ?????????????

Did plugs n wires 2-3 years back but will do em again, it definatly runs better once it gets warm.

hahahaha I just had this happen a few mins ago. Its water form the AC not draining proper from behind the dash. With a hard left I heard swish swish, sloush and water poured out from under the dash onto the floor matte.

I dunno about that, its not while driving, its when its sitting in the rain. rain water shouldn't be able to make it to the wires sitting still.

our 01 Forest runs funny when we get a heavy ran, but is fine the next time you got to drive it. You just have to be easy on the gas or it sort of misses.

You azz face, just till the JB weld was well cured and he got home. I never said drive around forever like that now did I. Your just a special kind of ahole huh??? ---------- rver RPM has nothing to do with how much pressure is in the rad. Its heat that does that. Leave the cap lose till your sure the JB welded is fully cured before you put full rad PSI on your patch job. And yep any water will just flow to the catch can. JBweld is good stuff not not till fully cured and 24hrs ins't enough. Stuff does work great.

Just run with the rad cap lose so it doesn't build pressure, you won't lose any water and it really won't care one way or the other. Y don't want it running at full PSI in there with a JB weld patch for a while.

OK here my my wagon

You can get hi mileage oil with slick50 already in it for a decent price..... Though DuraLube was theonly one that proved itself to me. Saved two engine that should of been toast and just like on TV.

Thats one of them parts if you think about it, change it.

I just yanked that goofy upside down wing they stick on the 01 Forest to blow air over the back window to help keep it clean. Real simple to under stand, stick you hand out the window palm up and you realize how much air the sucker is grabbin at speed slowing you down. Also because if you look around they don't put them things on cars anymore. Only hard part about it is covering up the screw holes for it. THe spacers that help it up were just foam taped to it, so I covered their exposed ends in some black vinyl as they are not solid, then made two small cuts inthem for the screws to slip through. Cleaned it up nice.