Chris W.

beauregaardhooligan Oh Geeez, thats what I get for posting after working all night.... My bad... Cheers, Chris

What about busting the nut in two with a "nut splitter". Then you could clean up the bolt threads and start over with a new nut. Just my .02... Good luck, Chris

Too funny:lol:, too honest:grin: Sweet ride, wish I could keep my wagon that clean! Cheers, Chris

Hey all This is great stuff Thanks for all the input! Cheers, Chris

Thanks Guys! Looks like I will go with the "remove the radiator, keep the engine in the bay" method. I can always pull the engine if it gets to be too much of a pain. Ceers, Chris

Hey all I am on my 4th Subaru (93 Loyal wagon 4x4 EA82 SPFI 105K). Due to econmic restraints (read: poor with lots of kids), I am finding that I need to fix things myself, rather than pay to have the car fixed at the shop....I am fairly mechanically inclined, and USMB has been immensely helpful, but I am falling short on tools. I have sockets and combo wrenches from 8mm to 17mm, and the usual assortment of regular tools. My question is: What tools can't you live with out if you are going to do your own work on a Subaru (i.e. specific larger wrenches and sockets, and specialty tools). Thanks in advance for your advice and ideas. Cheers, Chris

Hey all I have about 45k on my timing belts (93 Loyal EA82 105K), I also have a profound oil leak coming from the front of the engine. At first I thought the leak was coming from the cam covers, so I replaced the gaskets (PIA!) as well as the PCV valve (I read here that a bad PCV was the leading cause of leaks). Replacing the cam cover gaskets took care of 1/4 of the leaking. I am pretty sure the main leak is comming from the drivers side cam seal behind the timing belt sprocket. So my question is...which is easier, change the cam seals and timing belts with the engine in the car, or should I pull the engine to get to all this stuff. When I replaced the cam cover gaskets, work space was way tight, which leads me to believe that pulling the engine might be tha way to go? Any and all advice is much appreciated:D Cheers, Chris

After figuring out how to retrieve the codes, this is what I ended up with.... #11: Crank angle sensor/circuit. #32: Oxygen sensor. For the crank angle sensor....Ok it's in the dizzy, and that is all the Haynes book would give me....said if it was broke, it had to be replaced...Anybody have any other ideas about trouble shooting the distributor. Also, will the same type of dizzy from an 87 turbo work? (only cuz I happen to have one...). Several years ago I owned an 80 ea71 wagon. it had a loose distributor shaft that caused the same "hesitation/loss of power at certian speeds/RPMs" feeling I'm getting from the Loyal. Me thinks this might be the problem. 02 sensor: Is it worth trouble shooting, or should I just replace it? Thanks again for everyones help, Chris

Same thing happened on my 87 turbo wagon (now my parts car). I had to use a long screwdriver to unlatch it from below (lots of fishing as mentioned before). I fasioned a piece of wire with a loop on one end to hold on to, and attatched it where the cable went. The hood could be popped open from the front by reaching through the grill, and hooking a finger through the loop in the wire. Cheers, Chris

Skip Thanks for the heads-up on the "read memory" conectors! The Haynes manual didn't say anything about that... I'll give it a look again. Thanks again, Chris

The car has 104K. Does anybody know how to check the catalytic converter to see if it's plugged or not? Cheers, Chris

For starters...93 Loyal EA82 SPFI 104K. Last month the Roter and cap, plugs, and fuel filter were replaced, and the car tuned by the previous owner. Last week I replaced the battery. The Problem: Car starts fine, seems to idle nicely at about 800 after it's warm. Seems to have plenty of power in first and second and third at 3k to 4k. On the highway at 3K to 4 k in forth at 55mph or 2500 in fifth I start to feel the car studder or hesitate, and when I come to a hill it seems to loose a lot of power, I'll be in forth at 3500 doing 55 and it will slow down to 45 at wich time I have to put it in third with the car feeling like it['s going to stall out. I ran injector cleaner through it with a spendy tank of hi octane chevron, didn't make any difference... The check engine light will come on with the key turned to "on". The only code flashing is six short flashes (Haynes says this indicates MT California car). So...any ideas? Can I check the distributer shaft with out taking it out? Anything else I should look for? Thanks for your help in advance! Chris

Caleb. Thant might explane the differrent voltage readings? Anyone know if the alternator off an 87 ea82T will swap? (the poor 87 GL Turbo Wagon gave up the ghost after hitting two dear last year.... ). Otherwise, I'll pull it and have it tested. Thanks, Chris

Hi all! I have been lurking USMB since late spring, love this site!!! I just purchased a 93 Loyale a few weeks back. When purchased it had 103K, ran great, had all the maintenance records, and my wife even liked it! Last week after the car had sat for a couple of days, I went to start it, and nothing? I figured I door had been left ajar and the dome light drained the battery....I jumped it and went on my way, got to town (25 mile trip) and again had to jump it? I left it running when I got home, and checked the output of the alternator 13.8 (little low). I checked the battery with the engine turned off, it was around 9 volts. So I thought the battery was failing. Put in a different battery (charged, but not new), car started with some hesitation, but started...this lasted two days. whent to start it today...and nothing I checked all connections, wires, and grounds, all seem to be intact, the battery was at 10.2 volts Car started with a jump, I checked the alternator, 14.6, let it run for a 20 minutes, shut it off, tried to start it again, and nothing...Could the starter be going to ground? I have never had a Soob starter go bad (two ea81s and 2 ea82s), so I'm kind of stumped? I was thinking about pulling the starter and alternator and having them tested in town, but thats a 50 mile round trip, I'm trying to avoid....Sorry for the long description, and thanks for your help in advance. Cheers, Chris