Davalos

Wow ... this one is only 40 minutes from me! He'll probably get more than $100 bucks for it all, but Yeowzer! I could replace my whole damned car piece by piece!

Wow ... ok, so these Biaches who tell me I can get 40+ are lying to me, or exaggerating quite a bit about how much they got with theirs I USED to drive a '91 E-350 1-ton Van with a 350 V8, RWD, 235,000miles. I got 4-6 in the City and 10-12 on the highway. So going from that to the Subaru is night and day .... I shouldn't complain. Any good tips on zapping-up the mileage on these things, besides "Take the Lead out!" Tire Pressure Air Filter Plugs, PCV Anything else? Someone told me to put a few drops of acetone in my gas tank ... but he's the same guy who said "Dude, I'll give you a dollar if you can hold this firecracker in your hand for 3 seconds - do't worry - the fuse is 4 seconds long - honest!" when I was a kid ... he also used to joke about "horsepower means there's little horses in there, and horses like sugar"

Some people say I should be getting 40 with this Loyale. And some of this is coming from people who used to own them. Are they blowing cool air up my shorts or what? I get mid-20s. '90 Loyale Manual Tranny Non-Turbo 2WD FI with 190K on it. I was looking for a way to put a poll feature on this, but I'm curious what others get. Year Make Trans Motor 2 or 4 WD Mileage Those are pretty much the variables, aside from the flux-capacitor ad-ons, right? Post yours here. I'm very curious. I did a search, and I'm really surprised to not see a thread about this. I'm wondering if these "Yeah, Davalos, I used to get 42 miles to the gallon with mine!" comments I'm getting are a load of snot.

Ahhh... the aircraft thingies ... you might be right!

Nope. I just do my connectors for a few seconds ...

These from Ebay are supposedly 139db ... ouch!!!

Okay, I'll bite ... since I'm about to try & diagnose my own starter failure .... Where does one get a relay? Where to put it? Does it matter physically where it goes?

Yeah - I'm thinking all the front corners (4 bulbs) and side markers in the rear (2 more), plus dome (1), Reverse (2) , and basically all the 1156s (I think there are 6 in total). THAT might be a little pricey, but might be cool. The shop calls for a "Map Light" and a "Dome Light" as 2 different things ... anyone know what a Map light is? ...

ALSO – what’s the deal with the bracket that holds this guy in (The alternator)? I remember when I changed the belts, I actually had to GRIND DOWN the bracket on the rt. side to get it to fit next to the compressor. I figured it was a ‘these belts need to be stretched’ thing, but now that I think about it, NOW they are stretched, and they make the thing hang even more to the left, hitting the compressor.

I'm doing mine tomorrow ... I think.

I bought an LED Bulb for my dome light (I figured that in case I forgot to shut it off, I'd never drain the battery). And i have to admit, it's kinda cool. In my visit to the junkyard the other day, I snagged an extra dome light, and I'm wiring it up above the cargo area, close to the rear, so that they both go on at once and give me lots of light. I have been considering getting some more of these - for the side markers, and maybe MAYBE some fogs. Anyone have any experience with these? I have read in a dew places that sometimes there's not enough draw in something where a relay is ivolved, but there are plenty of places to put them that don't use relays (in my Loyale, I count like 6). Just curious ... LED Fogs sound cool, but I wonder how much light they actually put out.

I'm gonna keep pluggin' away ... I'll let you know what I find. I am worried about mileage ... someone told me I could get 40 out of this thing ... and I'm barely getting 28.

Yeah ... I made that mistake when I had to MOVE the alternator to replace the belts a few month's back ... I was careful this time - which is why the wires themselves are suspect to me at this point - I was movin' them around a lot to take OUT the battery. I picked-up a starter just in case ($63 Bosch ... ooochiewa-wa, this is starting to be an expensive weekend!), but I'll start with the wires in the morning when it's light...

Wow - is the bumper that easy to remove? I kinda sorta wanted to pa pa pa paint mine.

Yeah ... I've got a cordless impact & some u-joints I'm bringin' with me - shouldn't be a proble, But I gotta admit ... I'm startin' to chicken out, tho ... pa pa pa paint ... these guys are red - I'm silver. And it looks like ALL the rust on mine is on my front fenders ... at least what I can see this year. There's really no tellin' what kind of shape they're in until you have them off, is there? ...

I think I spotted my horn by accident while trying to find a *&!#@ing bolt I dropped ... I have a 90 Loyale, and it's kinda hidden underneath the skin of the front bumper on the passenger's side. Assuming, that's the horn I felt ... felt like a horn, anyway. Given it's location, I would imagine it gets hit by a lot of water & debris. Are you going to the Saturday Horn-Fest? ..,

Hmm ... that's a good start (pardon the pun, hehe!) - I was moving both positive & negative cables way around every which way to take the battery out ... boy, they are taped-up with a bunch of wires aren't they?!

I actually replaced the alternator today, which meant the battery was out for a few hours ... Got it all back together & took it on a test drive, CEL was out for the 1st 5 minutes (just like yours), and then "Poo!" back on. Been on again ever since. I haven't checked to see if it's still code 34 ... Sounds like I should start shopping for the EGR? Dealer wants $127, if i remember. I'd rather drink toilet water.

Well, I ended up with a Bosch - or, at least the box said "Bosch". I like their power tools ... Got it in, hooked her up, charged the battery & got that in, went to start it, and "Click". Nuthin. Zero. Just "click" Battery puts out 12.9 volts. TELL me I didn't fry the starter in all this! Come to think of it, where IS the friggin' thing?

Well, took the alternator out & had it tested ... came up "Bad" and one of the functions that it failed was the diodes ... Ordered-up the new one (60A), and it should be here by 4pm today ... I hope I hope. Hope the battery didn't get toasty because of it. Anyway, wanted to say "Thanks!" You folks ROCK!!!!!

Connections all look good - don't have a tester ... Hmm ... I wonder if I did anything ... can connecting the green or white terminals (to clear engine codes) fry anything? ... (gulp). With my F150, you can connect the alternator directly to the battery with a cro-bar and a banana peel, and nothing will happen (of course, it STILL won't ever start, hehe!) Also, if I did fry it, I found a $53 dollar one that puts out 60A ... any reason to get a more heavy-duty one? I was planning on some fogs and a better stereo, but this thing has no options like power windows, locks, etc, so I imagine i have plenty of room in there to grow.

$13 bucks at my dealer for that. But they could do it in like 10 minutes, you're right.

Last night when I went for a test drive after replacing the EGR Solenoids, I noticed that in about 15 minutes of driving my "Charge" light went on, as well as a few other lights. This happened one other time, when I lost my belts, but it was BAM!! and then LIGHT!! ... this time, it's very faint. If I turn my lights on, the Charge light gets a little brighter, and when relays go on & off, it changes ... is this normal for a subaru? And if so, what are we talking here? Battery is new (6 months), and all I changed was the solenoids... THe charge light is very faint right now, and it starts & runs ... etc. And the meter reads right in the middle ... for the moment. I'm sure this would change in time ... like @ the busiest intersection in town during rush-hour. People with experience at this ... where would you start? If it were my Ford, I'd have a clue where to start. I've found that most things that I used to do on my F150 get me into trouble in my Subaru ... hehe.

I agree on the window thing ... for me it was easier to get a long stick (I used a curtain rod) and push it all the way to the other side of the car and PUSH the lock mechanism, rather than trying to get something behind it to Pull it. Good luck!

But isn't the EGR supposed to open & close? Are you saying everything is hunky-dory, it's just a glitch that the computer is reading? If that's the case, I'll just live with the light...