Davalos

I guess I don't know for SURE that I swapped a good solenoid with the old one. I'll judge by mileage. I'm getting 28 or so now - if it goes-up, then I'll just assume I did it right ...

Okay, that's creepy ... went on a test-drive just now & the "Charge" dummy-light came-on, just like it did when I lost a belt .. hmmm. The only thing I did was swap the solenoids & put in the 2 side-marker harnesses ... Wonder if I screwed-up something trying to re-set the computer.

Zowie! Went to the junkyard today & found 2 twin Loyale Wagons ... Made me a Subaru Salad, with all the trimmin's! Fusible Links (those pesky $16 each ones from the dealer!) Both Solenoids for the EGR Roll-back Cargo Cover (and the mounting hardware) Both Struts for the Liftgate Wiring harnesses for my side marker lights (2) Headlight, Drivers' Side Knob for my radio $50 bucks. Uh huh! Now I have my eyes on that seat, and (Gulp) maybe the front fenders Are fenders hard to remove? Can I do it on-site, or are they crimped/Spot welded together (inner/outers)? Wow, now that I might actually do this, I need to consdier that I might have to pa-pa-paint! woohoo!!!

Bump ... I picked-up a roof-rack, and looked@ the gutters ... it really seems like they're kinda flimsy on my Loyale. Also, It looks like I'll shatter a window if I close the door without rolling the window down 1/4 inch ... I see the pics above, but does that really hold? My gutters look like they're just clipped on with some sheet-clips.

Bump. Okay, replaced both solenoids, connected the white connectors under the hood to clear the code ... and wham! Check engine light on again ... Grrrr ... And i'm still all dirty from the solenoid extraction!

This Board rocks! Thank you!!!

I see these guys on Ebay ... these won't work for a 2WD, will they? Ebay Listing for Axle Are the splines the same for 2WD?

I Heard "Close, Hand Grenades & Thermo-Nuclear Weapons" ... but that was back in the 80s ... hehe!

You can get bulk tint in a few places - I get mine locally, but I'm sure you can get it online. Best thing to use in my experience is baby shampoo water mix. You need a block-squeege (that's what I use anyway), and yes, lots of windex first. SQUEEGE clean, not rag or paper-towel clean - it leaves lint. I have a Loyale Wagon, and I'm sure it'll be easy, relative to what things COULD be - flat windows are GREAT compared to some rears I've Done ... you have to seam them in 2, 3, 4 spots some of them. I'll take & post pics when I do mine. I'm doin' it pretty soon here ...

I just bought a can of that bumper color ... I bought the gray to do the interior plastic panels, and they look GREAT!!! But it's too new to tell how long they'll last. Bought Black for the bumpers, too - I'll get some before/after pics, too if I can. Would be a bummer if it was a 6-month gig, but taping the bumpers can't be that hard. Better to tape them or remove them? Is removing the bumpers that easy? ...

Dunno if these will help ... this is a '90 Loyale Wagon

Oops!! Wrong thread! DUH!!! ..

Havde you checked your hood? ... there are a lot of really cool stickers on there. I never noticed them myself until a few astute Soob-Members pointed them out to me ... :cool:

Anyway, POP QUIZ!! This is a 1990 Loyale Wagon EA82 Okay, so I am kinda curious. This comes out of the main cluster of wires out of the rubber grommet. Kinda looks like a connector for LIGHTs, but I know that’s not true .. Anyone Seen this? And while we’re at it, the BOOK says the yellow & black ones are Connectors III and Connector IV. It also says that there is a “Clear Code” connector - I can't tell if they mean ... the white set ... or the green set. Anyone know which one it is? And what’s the other one? Always a bad idea to just connect them & find out, heh heh .. PFFT!!!! BBZZZZFT!! Always bad when you see puffs of smoke like those $16 each fusible links I blew when taking off the alternator. What a DORK!!! I should know better ...

#3 because it's easier ... heh heh - I think I'll do that when I paint mine - Nice Photochop work!!!!

Do you have an off-set open-ended wrench - would that do it?

As in PB- Blaster? Won't that ignite?

Pickup Screen, eh? Is that the thing you see when you have the oil pan off? Can it be cleaned?

Back in the days of my old straight-6 Ford, I used to do what one of the old-timers told me: He said, (and you have to use that old-man-on-the-front-porch-with-a-beer-accent), "Davalos, if you wanna keep that motor runnin, do you this: Next time you change that oil, you drain out the old stuff, and then put yourself a gallon of deisel fuel in there. Yep, Deisel Fuel - listen to me, Kid, I'm tellin' ya. Then you run that motor for about a minute with that diesel fuel in there, no more. Then drain your motor again, pull your distributor cap, and crannk that baby for about 15 seconds. Your oil catch pan will be filled with stuff you've never seen before come outta that motor. Then you change that FL1-A, fill'er up with your 10w40, pop the distributor cap back on, and you're good to go!" Well, after a lot of laughing behind his back, I realized he'd never steered me wrong & had gotten me out of a lot of punches with my old Ford. So I finally got up the courage to do it. Just like he said: drained it out, poured the deisel in there, ran him for about a minute, changed it all back. When I went to check the dipstick level, I was absolutely amazed! At first I almost thought I hadn't added enough oil, because I didn't see any on the stick when I checked after putting in 5 quarts. Turns-out, the oil was clear as glass. After that, that motor ran like a top, and I mean smoooooothe as honey. No lifter noise, no ticking, no nuthin. Wow! The amount of sludge and junk that came out of that motor was inredible - about 5 qts of material came out of the motor, and I had only put-in a gallon of deisel. Now: we're talking a 1986 Ford here, and the 300-6's were notoriously impossible to kill. Once, when my lifters were so bad on my Van, I actually took a 1/2 gallon of WD-40 and poured it in there with the oil - and I drove the thing around, fulling expecting to kill the motor (this was another one of Charlie's tricks). I was surprised beyond belief when the lifters stopped making noise, from TAKKATAKKATAKKA to nothing - we're talking about 30 minutes of driving here, plus another 10 minutes to get me back to the garage. I drained it, filled-it, and the van ran like a champ until it finally rusted-out so bad i was dying from Monoxide Poisoning. The guy who bought it from me still uses it on his farm, and it's still running, 6 years later. Anyone know this "trick" and would they dare try this on a Subaru 1.8? Since then I've heard various things like "you're crazy," "you just put 10,000 miles of wear on that thing," and "You prolly messed-up all dem seals" (you gotta put that thick hick-accent on those quotes). We're talking high-mileage vehicles (the van had 180k+ when I did it, and my truck had 225k on it - Subaru has 160k). After all I've een thru and all I've read on these boards, I'm kinda tempted to go ahead & do it on my Soobie. Whatadyall think?

Thanks, man! yeah, I just priced oil pumps after posting this to check things - $245 a the Stealer, and $143 here at the local JapImp place. Sending unit is like $25 bucks, if I remember. But given this ... hmm. Still, I suppose if I do the sending unit and the gague DOES change, then I do have relative better pressure, even if the gague is way off ... Thanks Guys!!!

Okay, I took some snapshots of the pressure @ vraious RPMs ... and it kinda goes against what I said earlier. Even tho I swear the pressure is better sometimes at idle Here's close to Idle ... Here's 2000 rpm and at 3500 rpm (yes, these are all under-load, except the idle) Now that I read the responses here, I'm thinkin' this ins't good...

I have the same issue ... "normal" for me (or so i thought!) was somewhere between 10 and 15 lbs ... that's where my needle always seems to be ... but ironically enough, the pressure seems to DROP when I up the RPMS ... I kinda thought this was normal, since I don't seem to be feeling any side-effects and it's my 1st Soob. 1990 Loyale Wagon 1.8

OMG - Is the Throttle Position Sensor REALLY $600+ Dollars? ...

In this thread, it says my oil leak is probably the cam cover seal that’s; leaking. This says it could also be oil pan gasket, valve covers, or oil pump. I’ve crawled-under this one, and WOW! That’s a lotta oil. Advice? I have a power washer … I could do some serious blasting under there to clean-it-up. Is that the way to go to find a leak? Someone told me that’s the thing to do, but it seems a little radical. I mean, I don’t mind, but my I can etch my name on a concrete sidewalk with my power-washer. Might be a little over-kill. This is a pretty good pic of what it looks like underneath – it seems to be a FAIRLY consistent goober down there. Is there a better place to look? I leak a lot of oil onto the driveway compared to what I’m used to in other cars. Are there telltale places which are dead giveaways as to the specific source? My landlady is gonna blow-a-testie if I don’t fix this & clean-up the driveway (now THAT is where the power washer comes in handy!) Yes, I know I said my Landlady has Testies. Trust me on this - she does. And she’s gonna use them to beat me if I don’t figure this out. I could do the cardboard thing, but I’d rather fix the leak(s). I suppose she's also gonna beat me if she ends-up buying a Subaroo someday and reads this. Hell, by then, I'll be gone, and at least she'll see I was conscientious about it, hehe

Wow. You guys rock! But you're light-years ahead of me on this stuff ... I'm not honestly 100% sure (Hell, I'm not even 25% sure!) what I'm reading here....You mean to tell me I can throw in something like this: ... that I get from Radio Shack for fifty cents? Find the old one, swap them out with a soldering-gun (or more simple yet, a crimp-cnnection!) and I'm good to go? No way ... Now we're talking this is the EGR Valve, yes? Attached to the passenger's side of the intake manifold ... the one with NO WIRES hooked to it? Now for the Solenoid, all I can figure is this: I know it's a bad pic, but it looks like a small sugar-cube sized gizmo a little more towards the front & definitaly burried. Is this what we're talking about here? And am I reading the suggestions correctly that I should buy a PURGE VALVE and cannibalize it for the solenoid? I guess I needed to be treated like a little baby - I'm a newbie, afterall, hehe. Hope that get me a "Pass" and I don't need to be Clipped/Whacked by Pauly Walnuts for asking the same question over & over...