Davalos

ok ... thanks. I'll look around. the more I think about it, the better I think the idea for the pump replacement is good - I remember this one thread where I mentioned my oil pressure has been always low ... and some people say "just ignore the dash gague ..." dunno. For $100 bucks I think I'm in ... for $200 ... hmm...

Holy crap!!! Yeah - Dyno it. I wanna hear this one!

Yep - I got the water pump .. but Wow ... are oil pumps for this badboy really $175 to 200 bucks? ... Any particular brand to look for (or to avoid)? And do the pumps come with the mickey?

What can I say? This place is DA BOMB!!!!

OMG, that Rocks!!!!

Okay, cool - good advice on the bolts. I'm one of those usually "Tighter is Better" kinda guys ... (ahem!) but in this case ... I'm thinking of the Seafoam & deisel trick, etc beforehand because I want to be able to see what the motor is like on the inside when it's (hopefully) at its best. I can certainly judge what comes out of the crank to determine how much WAS in there, but I'll wanna see shiny new bright steel in there once I get in there. Because if I don't see that, it'll give me something else to go on in terms of looking for future problems. Plus, I've never done Seafoam and ever since Daeron mentioned doing his, I've had a hankerin' ...

Thanks, man - I still haven't figured-out where the leak is coming from, so I figure if I do it all, it'll cover the bases ... does that gasket really squish-out? It looks really wide. How come forget the seafoam for now? Just curious. I'm in the mode of "let's clean that F-er out before we get it open!"

Actually, I didn't ... that's good to know. Might have sucked to start on the left one with 4, and I tried to pry the right one after only taking off 4 bolts, thinking it was just stuck ...

Bump. Well, I'm about to attempt to de-goober the Soober ... Got a bunch of gaskets (took GD's advice and got the oil pan gasket fro the dealer). My landlady says that if she finds another oil drip in the driveway, she's going to cut me up into pieces and feed me to her cats ... Question ... Should I seafoam this badboy BEFORE I do anything? I'm sorta assuming I'm gonna change the oil 2x here ... once before (to do my deisel trick) and maybe once after. The plan: Seafoam Deisel Re-Seal Fill'er up... Pray for no leaks Sound good? Also, is the pickup screen the small guy in the offset tube @ the top of the oil pan, like the pic in the manual? I can't seem to find that or the "Mickey Mouse" gasket, but I assume that's just the oil pump gasket. So yeah ... over the next week, I'm doing the following: Clutch Engine Re-Seal (Both) Axles Timing Belts & Tensioner Water Pump Rotors & pads, Shoes Oil Sending Unit Fuel Filter Whatdyall think? Should I also do motor mounts, just because? And - is there anything else "just because" I should think about while I'm all up in it's bowels? I've got some cash I can spend if it's not too crazy - and I'm sure I'll be at this a few days, so if I have to order stuff, I'll have lead-time unless the sequencing is screwed-up. Te only other thing I'm worried about is the alignment - I chewed-up a tire on the driver's side front in about 3 months, and I mean BAD! And i know parts in that area are gonna have to be ordered ... any other thoughts as to some no-brainers in that category? Nothing worse than taking the car in for an alignment and hearing them say "Sorry, Dude - you need x, y, and z."

The only thing I have driven that might have a tighter radius would be my Mom's Renault Alliance. That thing was ridiculous. The Encore was the same, too, if I remember. My wagon feels close to that, but I'm pretty sure it must be a little wider. My friend had a Prelude with 4WS, but I honestly don't remember it being any better than the Alliance, and I'm thinkin' that's cheating anyway, hehe.

Yeah... I figured I could work with the guy on shipping ... I was wondering if the body styles are a fit ... Looks like this auction is gonna end anyway.

There's a left and a right Fender on ebay right now ... the ebay listing says it's for a "Loyale" but I thought the Loyales were really "GL"s back in those years (85 86). Do I have that right? Are the body syles compatible? That's the only place I have rust on my Loyale, and it'd be kinda cool to nip it in the bud (assuming the inners are still ok. My '90 is from Texas originally, but Michigan Winters are just killers.

Well, my Soob is my 1st one, and for those of you who remember when I 1st got on these boards, I was a little shy about even admitting I had one ... Now, I'm a die-hard fan. I would imaginge I'll let this one go if a) it rusts beyond structural repair, I find a better one & pick it up, at which point I'll find someone to give it away to (ala Erin Brokovich), if it c) gets stolen or d) totalled. Honestly, i can't think of many reasons other than that.

I just had to replace my front left tire - new in March ... hmmm... Question ... what are the possible parts could be going bad when it comes to getting an alignment? I have these visions of going to the alignment shop * theyll say "Well, we can't do it because you need x, y, and z. That'll be $49.99 please"

I think I paid like $130 for mine, and i condidered myself lucky ... it ws an ebay thing.

I have been adding a shot-glass of acetone per full tank (3oz) and have noticed a decent bump in mileage (4-5 mpg or so), but that could also be explained by the plecebo effect, aka the "I-know-I-did-the-acetone-and-I-want-it-to-work-or-I'll-look-like-an-idiot-so-I'm-driving-nice-to-the-mileage-will-be-better-&-I-can-look-good" effect ...

Wow, that sucks, Dude - wish I knew the answer to that one. I can't imagine you'd be spilling that much to get the tube & crossmember that covered ... damn, Dude - this must be really

The biggest thing I'll put up there will be a 24; ladder. that's like 12' long, but I'm wondering if there are going to be strong sheer forces goin' on around corners & stuff ... I guess we'll see! The 1As are gonna come in the mail here pretty soon,

Holy crap, dude - that's radical!

Welp ... it looks like I've got my hands on some 1A RainGutter Towers - I actually went to a ski-shop to look at some & they let me "test fit" them (meaning just lay them on the gutters to see if they fit). It looks like if I want to keep the trim piece from popping, I should make a notch on the bottom of the trim so it can grab the gutters without popping the trim. I can take my little mini-grinder and eek-off maybe 1/4" just wide enough for the "grabbers" to get around it. Anyone else do this, or is it really not necessary? Another question ... any REASON to keep the trim? It's not like I'm gonna enter my Soob in any car-shows or anything ...

Well, I found out. I need what they call "1-A" Raingutter Towers, and the onse that came with this are "Q" Towers, and they evidently are the other kind of mount (not for my '90 Loyale, anyway). So, basically all that's good here would be the bars. Still trying to figure out if it's worth it. Anyone out there know a good source to find some used ones? The place where I contacted to find out what new ones would cost made me want to drive rusty nails thru my forehead.

I just got my grubby mitts on some Yakima SST Mk II Racks that I can use to try them out. I guess they're about 10-12 years old, and I'm reading the directions & I see it mentioning something about replacing the side clamps with manufacturer specific side mounts. Anyone know how well (if) these puppies fit, and how I can get my paws on them?

Hey Mary: Might be helpful to take a pic & post it here - I'll bet there are a ton of people who can probably spot it in a jiffy I'm thinking it's probably a little rough to post a pic and then add a bunch of lines & text that might not be too confusing.

How did it go?

I have read lots of places here that the Dealer is the place to be, is that the case? Are they just that much better? And do you gyus know what makes them better? Are we talking thickness, or quality of the rubber/cork, etc? Not meaning to be picky, I just like to know these things for some reason. :cool: